Anthology Towers Newbie Build

[rick844]

Jim et. al., I have decided (with much help from all of the great support on this site), to build the anthologies. I am also going to upgrade my center from a 2 way to a 3 way, but I am saving that for another thread. I have also decided to do MDF and veneer, which I am currently leaning towards walnut to match my entertainment center.

That said I have a few questions as I begin procuring the materials. When I look at the nest layout shown here: http://speakerdesignworks.com/Anthology_3.html
I have the following questions:

1. The cut list appears to be nested on 2 sheets measuring 49" by 97". The standard size for MDF is 4'x8' which converts to 48" by 96". This is obviously not just a typo, so I am assuming I will need three sheets of MDF to make all of the pieces, but the answer to my second question may prove otherwise. So I need to confirm.

2. When I compare the photo in the same link to the cut plan, there are 4 10" wide panels labeled as inside front baffle and rear baffle, but in the photo there only appears to be only a single front and rear baffle with much shorter additional panels boxing in the tubes, but they don't run the entire length. So, is the intent to match the cut plan or the photo? If the photo is right, are the panels simply mis labeled in the cut plan?

I guess I just to clarify before I start buying and cutting. It appears as though if the plans are correct, the photo is missing parts. Please confirm either way.

Thanks in advance.

[Marcus80]

Normally 4x8 sheets of mdf come in actual size of 49x97. I always assumed that this is due to potential edge damage during shipping or handling so you would be left with an actual 4x8. If you were worried about it, you could use a thin or ultra thin kerf blade to cut out the pieces. I would think that you should be fine though.

[CBM87]

IIRC i used two full sheets and a bit of a 3rd because of a cutting oops. Maybe these pics help a bit. There's still the final front baffle that would go on. It'd look like three layers for the top and two for the woofers. I put the final front baffle on last so I could fit it on nicer.

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[CBM87]

All my cut pieces

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[rick844]

Thanks for the clarification on the 4 x 8 sheet. That makes sense. Are the 10" wide by 46 1/2" length panels shown the in the photos but the 11 1/2" by 48" not shown? Is that what I'm missing?

[CBM87]

The outer front baffle is a 1.5" longer because it covers the top and bottom if that makes sense.

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[CBM87]

Look closely at the top left of the drawing. The inner front baffle tees up to the top plate. The outer front baffle covers both. That's why its 1.5 inches longer.

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[Jim Holtz]

You're getting excellent feedback and answers. The pictures don't show the outer front baffle which will have the recesses for the drivers cut into it. I usually slightly over cut the outer front baffle so I can trim it to perfect size after gluing it on the assembled cabinet. Yes, do use a thin kerf blade to cut the panels.

CBM87's build pictures are excellent. The one thing I'd recommend is that you make sure the crossover is accessible through the bottom woofer hole if the wiring needs anything touched up after assembly.

Everything on Curt's website is current and correct.

Jim

[rick844]

Great, thanks all.

[CBM87]

Yep, especially when you get it all together and realize a woofer is out of phase *whoops*.... The AA battery trick is great for making sure you get that all right before finalizing fastening the drivers.

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[rick844]

Yep, especially when you get it all together and realize a woofer is out of phase *whoops*.... The AA battery trick is great for making sure you get that all right before finalizing fastening the drivers.

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Ok, so how does the out of phase impact driver installation? I'm a newbie, but I thought phase was simply swapping the + and -, also what does the battery trick mean?

[CBM87]

Ok, so how does the out of phase impact driver installation? I'm a newbie, but I thought phase was simply swapping the + and -, also what does the battery trick mean?

I wouldn't worry about it until you get to crossover building. I had a something backward and the two woofers were out. Once the crossover network is wired, i took a AA to the input the speaker, + to +, - to -. Your woofers (mids might too) should both push out a little. If they are going opposite direction, the polarity is reversed somewhere.


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[rick844]

Ahhh, ok. Thanks.

[rick844]

I thought about buying the crossovers reassembled. I dont know if there is a huge cost impact to that, but I would like to learn, so I'm considering building them. I just know nothing about reading the schematics and translating the drawings to a physical build.

[CBM87]

I thought about buying the crossovers reassembled. I dont know if there is a huge cost impact to that, but I would like to learn, so I'm considering building them. I just know nothing about reading the schematics and translating the drawings to a physical build.

Meniscus is awesome! You'll be thrilled with having them assemble them. I take for granted my engineering background makes the schematic reading easy.

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[rick844]

Thanks. That's where I was heading. I did the math, and they seem to charge around 80 to do the assembly

[rick844]

Getting the MDF on Friday. Do you guys simply glue the boards or do you drill and screw too? Also, recommended glues?

[CBM87]

Getting the MDF on Friday. Do you guys simply glue the boards or do you drill and screw too? Also, recommended glues?

I use titebond 3 and a sh**load of clamps. Some people use a brad nailer to speed up the process but it's not necessary. And patience, lots of patience. Don't rush. Take a peek at my thread and others'.

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[CBM87]

I use titebond 3 and a sh**load of clamps. Some people use a brad nailer to speed up the process but it's not necessary. And patience, lots of patience. Don't rush. Take a peek at my thread and others'.

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[rick844]

Thanks CB.

[rick844]

Quick question. Some photos appear that this setup is bi-wire/bi-ampable. Is that is the crossover design, and when I order the terminal posts, do I need to account for this?

[Jim Holtz]

Quick question. Some photos appear that this setup is bi-wire/bi-ampable. Is that is the crossover design, and when I order the terminal posts, do I need to account for this?

In DIY, any crossover can be bi-amped simply by having two amps and running the mid/tweeter portions of the crossover to one amp and the bass crossover to the other. Personally, I'd use one good amp and forget about bi-amping. There isn't anything special in the crossover for bi-amping.

My $0.02 worth..

Jim

[rick844]

Thanks Jim, that simplifies it.

[rick844]

Thoughts? Is there a better or more cost effective choice?

https://www.amazon.com/D12100X-Diablo-Circular-Composites-12-Inch/dp/B00C3HVIWC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=12+inch+kerf+blade&qid=156 1513107&s=gateway&sr=8-4#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

[Paulie]

Thoughts? Is there a better or more cost effective choice?

https://www.amazon.com/D12100X-Diabl...ws_feature_div

I have had good luck with the Freud Diablo blades

[rick844]

Thank you sir, much appreciated. Just ordered the 10" to fit my table saw and hope to start cutting the panels Friday. I'll start posting photos as I move along.

[rick844]

I have tile floors. Been looking at the spikes, but not sure of using metal spikes on the tile. My folks have plastic spikes, which are adjustable but I haven't been able to find any on line. anyone have any suggestions?

[Jim Holtz]

I have tile floors. Been looking at the spikes, but not sure of using metal spikes on the tile. My folks have plastic spikes, which are adjustable but I haven't been able to find any on line. anyone have any suggestions?

Spikes work well on carpet but not very well other places. Try these https://www.amazon.com/Slipstick-CB3...7V0SV0ZBP1Z8NR or These https://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hard...%2C246&sr=8-43

From a sound quality perspective, a throw rug in front of the speakers will much improve sound quality.

Just a thought....

HTH

Jim

[rick844]

Yeah, I have an area rug that will be in front of the speakers. Thanks Jim, I will check the links.

[rick844]

Ordered, thanks again Jim.

[Mikerodrig27]

Build is looking great so far. I have the second set of speaker feet that Jim has suggested. I used them on a guitar cab build. They are very tough and good for the money.

[rick844]

Thanks. I am only a little concerned about not being able to adjust them, so when I'm done, if I need adjustment, I may have to come up with some solution to allow for adjusting. My tile is not as level as i would like.

[Mikerodrig27]

I suppose if you weren't going to see it, you could install washers between the feet the cabinet as needed. But that would be time consuming.

[rick844]

Got the cabinet materials. Going to build the table saw stand and run off table first before I start cutting the boards.

[Mikerodrig27]

I am doing the same thing. I am building an outfeed table for my cabinet saw. It is long overdue.

[rick844]

Nice. I wish I had a wood shop set up, but I am new to this. Metal welding, I know. Wood working is quite new.

[Mikerodrig27]

That is exciting. That means you have so much to learn. Woodworking is a great hobby, you are in for a lot of fun. I used to watch a lot of The Wood Whisperer when I first started getting into woodworking.

This is a great site to go to as well:

https://woodgears.ca/

The site is about former engineer who has a long past in woodworking. He is a very intelligent person. I watch every video he puts out even if it isn't woodworking related.

[rick844]

Table done, ready to start cutting.

[rick844]

That is exciting. That means you have so much to learn. Woodworking is a great hobby, you are in for a lot of fun. I used to watch a lot of The Wood Whisperer when I first started getting into woodworking.

This is a great site to go to as well:

https://woodgears.ca/

The site is about former engineer who has a long past in woodworking. He is a very intelligent person. I watch every video he puts out even if it isn't woodworking related.

Thanks, I'll check that out

[rick844]

Started making cuts. Everything is going smoothly. That saw blade is really nice. Super clean cuts.

[rick844]

Question guys. The tweeter cutout on the front baffle says it should have a recess of 3 7/8" x 5 5/32". Is the 5 in the 5 5/32 a typo? I was reading this as it should be 3 7/8" diameter with a depth of cut being 5/32" not 5 5/32". Am I correct?

[Mikerodrig27]

Wow, that table looks like it will work great. It looks like you have about 20" of in feed. That should make a huge difference. I like the rack and pinion on those dewalt saws.

I have a small saw with a rousseau table saw stand. The table saw sets into the table that a biesemeyer fence is attached to. The table saw cannot move because it sets on pins so the fence doesn't go out of alignment to the saw. I bet you could mount a biesemeyer style fence to that table.

[rick844]

Thanks. I'm not a huge fan of sawhorse feet I used, but I wanted to be able to remove them and set the table aside when I done with the project cause we do park her car in the garage. Other than that, it made this a much more possible project. Only 60 bucks in material and about 6 hours in labor.

[rick844]

Driver kit ordered.

[Mikerodrig27]

Awesome! Where did you end up ordering from?