Blink's Khanspire Build Thread

[Blink]

Hey guys, just ordered the parts tonight to build some Khanspires!
I'll be building them in a ported variety. Hope to keep this updated with sweet pictures and as much of the details as I can.

Wish me luck, and be prepared for lots of stupid questions!! (Just kidding...hopefully)

[joeybutts]

Hey guys, just ordered the parts tonight to build some Khanspires!
I'll be building them in a ported variety. Hope to keep this updated with sweet pictures and as much of the details as I can.

Wish me luck, and be prepared for lots of stupid questions!! (Just kidding...hopefully)

YESSSSSSSSS.... Another has fallen prey to the Khanspires!! :twisted:

Welcome aboard and can't wait to see them come together!

[---k---]

That design is like from 2007! Why would you want to build that???




Please note the wink. Looking forward to seeing your progress. I hope that you enjoy them as much as I do.

[Blink]

Well I can tell you right now, my braces won't be nearly as nice as joeybutts... heck I might not even round them over....but I feel like I am obligated to if I take pictures of them...

[CADman_ks]

... heck I might not even round them over...

Ah, come on, you can do it...!!! You know that you won't be able to sleep at night knowing that the internal baffles are NOT rounded over. It's not worth insomnia. (just kidding)

Do you have a router table? Just set that baby up, put a round over bit in there, and just guide them all along. You'd be surprised how fast it goes.

Looking forward to your build as well. That's the way that we all learn...

CADman_ks

[Blink]

Well I'm actually thinking about not... I dont have any roundover bits, and I think every router bit I own is beyond dull now. So I will be spending a small fortune on router bits just for this! (the 1" roundover bit itself will be expensive!!! Plus the long flush trim bit for the baffle) But I need to get moving on ordering some, everything will be here friday, except one cap that is backordered.

[CADman_ks]

Well I'm actually thinking about not... I dont have any roundover bits, and I think every router bit I own is beyond dull now. So I will be spending a small fortune on router bits just for this! (the 1" roundover bit itself will be expensive!!! Plus the long flush trim bit for the baffle) But I need to get moving on ordering some, everything will be here friday, except one cap that is backordered.

That's a darn good reason to NOT round them over! Buy the ones that you absolutely need. You can definitely do without rounding over the insides.

Are you using MDF for your cabs? If you are, try some of your "dull" bits on it to see how it goes. It machines fairly easily, especially if you're taking little bites.

After buying two router bits in one week, she-who-must-be-obeyed, but the ki-bosh on tool buying for me for a while. One of them I could NOT live without, a flush trim (my old one finally just conked out), and a 1/2" rabbet I could have lived without, but hey, I have it now.

It wasn't actually the router bits that caused the clamp down. It was probably the HarborFreight circular that did it. They had a several tools on sale that I've been wanting and don't have, and they ALL came up at the same time.

I had no choice. I had to buy.

CADman_ks

[joeybutts]

Well I'm actually thinking about not... I dont have any roundover bits, and I think every router bit I own is beyond dull now. So I will be spending a small fortune on router bits just for this! (the 1" roundover bit itself will be expensive!!! Plus the long flush trim bit for the baffle) But I need to get moving on ordering some, everything will be here friday, except one cap that is backordered.

You can use a 3/4" round, bead in a bit, then sand down the edge. That's what I do for now when trying to get a big fat roundover.

[Blink]

So I suppose I'll be posting all the stereotypical pictures as I go...Here's all the parts I've received so far!!



And here are the little Infinity Primus 150's I'll be replacing. Do you think I'll be able to tell a slight difference??

[CADman_ks]

You're going though a lot of work and you won't be able to tell any difference...

CADman_ks

[joeybutts]

MEh. Why build these....those 150's are probably JUSSSTTTT a step below.

This is going to be like going from a Yugo to a McLaren F1. :T

[Blink]

oh and ---k---, you can sleep better at night knowing these speakers will have a 1" roundover



I found a cheaper one
And holy crap this thing is huge!!!

Unfortunately it is supposed to rain here for the next 3 days, I was really hoping to go get my MDF and start on these

[CADman_ks]

...
And holy crap this thing is huge!!!

...

Man! that's got to be pushing the limit of 1/4" shanked tools.

Obviously, it must be OK, though, they sell it that way.

CADman_ks

[BeerParty]

oh and ---k---, you can sleep better at night knowing these speakers will have a 1" roundover

Make sure you take 'small bites' when using this bit. You'll want to make multiple shallow passes; don't increase the depth more than 1/4 inch for each pass.

[---k---]

I'm sure there will be a little quite in the rain when you can make a quick run to the lumber store.... plywood would be a lot more resistance to a little bit of sprinkle while moving it in and out of the truck.

[joeybutts]

I'm 99% sure that has a 1/2" shank, the cutter is just that large.

For the MDF, just make a rain coat -

[CADman_ks]

I'm 99% sure that has a 1/2" shank, the cutter is just that large.

...

I think that you're right. When I first looked at it, it looked like it said 1/4" on the packaging. But, just looking at it, it does look like a 1/2" shank, and you're right that thing IS REALLY THAT BIG!!! 8O8O

[joeybutts]

..... that thing IS REALLY THAT BIG!!! 8O8O

That's what she said? :lol:

[Blink]

Haha yes it's 1/2" shank. I'm having some issues converting my images quickly to under 100k or whatever the size limit is on here.

It finally stopped raining for the first time since my last post, and I'm half tempted just to leave work to buy the wood!!

[CADman_ks]

Haha yes it's 1/2" shank. I'm having some issues converting my images quickly to under 100k or whatever the size limit is on here.

...

There a LOT of ways to do this, and I've had to learn how to do this as well to post on here.

If you want to do it on the web, here's a site that I've used:

http://www.webresizer.com/

One bad thing about the web thing is that you have to upload every file individually, and that takes some time, and then once they are converted, you have to download the image again. It does work, but is somewhat time consuming.

But, recently, I've started using this program: PhotoScape. The program can do a LOT of things, but I'm only using the batch mode currently to resize things. You can actually save settings in there, so that every time you want to batch convert something you don't have to reset everything up. It can also convert the images to another directory if you want, so that you can keep your originals and down-sized images separated.

The one thing that I wish that this could do, or any program for that matter, is to say I want my picture size to 95K or under, and resize all of the pictures automatically so that they are under 95K.

I'd recommend giving this program a look, but there are others out there as well that do the same thing...

Good luck!!!

[Blink]

Does anyone have any experience with bi-amping with cheaper receivers? I was toying with the idea of having separate binding posts for the woofer crossover and the mid/tweeter crossovers. I have a Yamaha RX-A710, and not sure how long it will be until I buy a dedicated amp for these speakers. Is there any disadvantages to doing it this way?

[---k---]

Disadvantages are 2x as much speaker wire, more binding posts, more complexity. In theory it can provide benefits. I've never thought the benefit worthy of my time to experiment with it. That isn't to say you shouldn't try, because it isn't that difficult.

[cjd]

As long as both channels of amplification you're sending to your speaker share the same power supply, there is likely little-to-no benefit. You're always amplifying a full-range signal and sending it over the wire to the speaker.

There may be some amplifier designs where something or other could make there be some benefit, though I don't know enough about design at that level to be able to say for certain. I'd guess it's unlikely, especially in a commercial product.

[Hdale85]

I'd agree it's really not worth it, also many designs on the forums aren't setup to be bi-amped. The crossovers have to be separated and most of them if you separate them they will be different then the design that was intended and no longer function as it should.

Not sure if this is true for the Khans, maybe they were designed on separate crossovers I haven't looked that closely lol.

[---k---]

The Khans crossovers are a standard parallel design. For simplicity, I put each driver crossover on a separate board. This lends itself to easily bi-amping.

The designs around here that definitely can't be bi-amped are some of Jon's crazy series & hybrid crossovers, used in the NatP and ModulaMT.

[Hdale85]

Some of Jed's can't as well. Or at least shouldn't be.

[Blink]

As long as both channels of amplification you're sending to your speaker share the same power supply, there is likely little-to-no benefit. You're always amplifying a full-range signal and sending it over the wire to the speaker.

There may be some amplifier designs where something or other could make there be some benefit, though I don't know enough about design at that level to be able to say for certain. I'd guess it's unlikely, especially in a commercial product.

Doh! Yeah I wasn't thinking it through very well!! The way its put on Yamaha's site and any "review" done of it state that if you have a 5.1 setup the receiver will take that "unused" power from the back surrounds (since its a 7.1 avr) and give your front speakers twice the power.

Disadvantages are 2x as much speaker wire, more binding posts, more complexity. In theory it can provide benefits. I've never thought the benefit worthy of my time to experiment with it. That isn't to say you shouldn't try, because it isn't that difficult.

Pretty much nailed the response I needed there: this is why I dont see more people doing it... it just adds to the complexity with little to no advantages

So I guess that takes care of stupid question number one from me.

[Blink]

So it finally stopped raining long enough for me to go get some wood! Seriously I don't think its ever rained this long here in Oklahoma.



Cutting out the internal braces almost killed my hands... I also got a little sloppy with the jigsaw by the time I got to the last ones! But I found myself stacking them up making cool looking structures out of them after they were done.



After taking this picture I decided to go in and straighten up some of the crooked cuts. (they didn't look that bad from the top side)

I'm gonna take a shot and try some dados for the first time, so hopefully I dont have to go buy another sheet of MDF...

[joeybutts]

good to see things under way....

[Blink]

So I need to stop buying cheap tools... I have a Black and Decker random orbital sander (I think it was like 30 bucks at lowes) and the platen that holds the sandpaper broke off and flew across the barn!! Then I see on their website there is a recall on this product (I only knew because I was looking up what the part the broke was called!!) Called about it and apparently mine did not fall within the dates of the defective ones and they wont do anything about it. Ive only used it for maybe one project a year in the 5 years I've owned it, so I guess I got my moneys worth. Well at least I have an excuse to buy new power tools now

[joeybutts]

I LOVVVVVVVVVVVVE excuses to buy new tools/upgrade parts.

"Baby, I need to get new shocks and struts for the car."

"Well, how much?"

"$700"

"$700???"

"It's $500 just for the stock replacements!" (she'll never look up the cost)

"Oh... ok....."

[cjd]

"It's $500 just for the stock replacements!" (she'll never look up the cost)

She will now.

Feel better. The stock struts on my car are listed at $1350. Each. The car cost me $15k brand new... (2001 Neon ACR - and yes, I did autocross for many years, so it really was used for racing). Also worth a 15.4 1/4mile bone stock on garbage tires (not even drag radials, so probably a 15.2 on those...)

Cheap tools are never worth it. I gave up on that long ago. Most recent was re-discovering that a cheap (Menards) brad-point drill bit had an off-center point. WTF. Useless!

There's a reason I use a holesaw on the drillpress for braces.

[BeerParty]

I have a Black and Decker random orbital sander (I think it was like 30 bucks at lowes) and the platen that holds the sandpaper broke off and flew across the barn!!

Based on the lack of vitriol in your post I'm assuming that it didn't hit anything important (or sensitive), thank goodness for that!

I hope it didn't delay you too much, and with a new (proper) sander your work will be much smoother in the future (you knew that was coming, didn't you? ).

[Blink]

I will never buy black and decker again...

I started doing some practice dados and realized they were cutting shallow on one side... my sled wasnt level!! so I took out some of the screws, leveled it out and put them back in, but I was using some bits from a big black and decker set that I got for christmas a few years back... and you'll never guess what happened, tore the tips off of the bits on four of them before I could even get 3 screws in!!!

Let me be clear I'm pretty much an amateur when it comes to woodworking, but I love learning! My only speaker building experience is a simple subwoofer.



It was a good starter project just because of the simplicity. (although I want a bigger one now! or maybe another one.. but I might have trouble hunting down another Tempest) I also swore off trying to paint my speakers after doing this one too!

Also I know the quality of the pictures sucks (taken from my phone). Dont worry I'll take quality pictures once I'm finally done!

[CADman_ks]

I LOVVVVVVVVVVVVE excuses to buy new tools/upgrade parts.

...

My wife wanted a new house. I told her that I would build her said house, on one condition: I had an unlimited tool budget. She agreed. That's where a butt-ton of my tools came from.

None of them were Black and Decker, for the record...

[---k---]

DeWalt is B&D .

[CADman_ks]

DeWalt is B&D .

I knew that someone was going to bring that up.

Only on the financial sheets...

[Blink]

Got my dados cut, everything seems straight!



Here's a shot of all my braces finally done (decided I definitely wouldnt be able to sleep at night if I didnt round them over!)

[CADman_ks]

.... (decided I definitely wouldnt be able to sleep at night if I didnt round them over!)

Shoot! I can't sleep at night, even IF I DO round over my edges!! I have so many things going in my head all the time about how I'm going to do the next part of the project.

I suppose it could be said that maybe I think about things TOO much! :B

I just don't like surprises. I won't to know what's going to happen before I get there...

Looking GOOD!!! by they way... :T

[joeybutts]

Nice work Blink!! Glad to see you rounded those bad boys over.

I was just listening to mine two nights ago playing COD. OMG, AMAZING. Being pushed by the Emotiva XPA-3, it was like being in the combat zone.

Figured I would throw that little extra tid bit in there to give you a little more motivation. :T

[Blink]

Thanks guys!

Unfortunately I play COD on the Xbox... so I wont be able to play with you
But I feel like I'll be able to play better with these speakers

[AdelaaR]

The original khanspires are sealed ... so can you elaborate a bit on how exactly you are modding them to be ported?

[---k---]

Ported vs. sealed doesn't significantly change the transfer function between the woofers and the mids. Sized and tuned correctly, and the ported bass will just get extended deeper with very little other changes to the response. So, most of the time, the sealed versus ported can be changed by the builder without changes to the crossover.

I didn't do the modeling for a ported design - that is the Y in DIY. But considering that the Statements use the same woofers, I suggest using the same box size and tuning as the full size Statements for a ported design with deeper bass. I trust Curt got the models right.

[Blink]

What he said! I'm just doing exactly what was suggested, increasing the volume to 100L by building it 17" deep and using a 3" diameter port 4" long

[AdelaaR]

ok ... I thought as much ... but it's always nice to hear the details of a build.