BeerParty Statement Monitor Build

[BeerParty]

OK, time to stop lurking and actually do something...

...like build some speakers!

I actually started building a while ago, but I finally got the pics off the camera and into photo-bucket so I can post.

So, without further ado, the build pics:

I am building Statement Monitors (does that count as starting small? :roll: ), so we will start with a picture of the drivers:



I have finished my crossovers as well:



I couldn't get everything on one board that would fit in the cabinet and still go through the driver hole, so I split it. Now I can remove them if necessary without tearing up my cabinet. I have never built a crossover before (to be honest, it is the first time I even used a soldering iron), so I am a little paranoid.

If you see anything wrong, holler!

Another picture of the crossover with a CD case for scale:



More pics to follow soon.

[BeerParty]

I have made some progress on the cabinets as well...

Building the mid tunnels:



A couple of sides done:





Yep, the crossovers will fit!



I measured, and there is just enough space around the crossover board to put in 1" foam on the bottom of the mid tunnel, the back of the cabinet (once attached), and the top of the base of the cabinet.

Gluing the other side on

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Chris,

Everything looks great so far! :T

Jim

[alexwakelin]

Looks good, and I have clamp envy. That's a whole lotta clamps.

[BeerParty]

OK, more progress. Sorry it took so long, I couldn't find the camera.

The cabinets are glued together, all the MDF is in there except for the front baffle:



It took a lot more work than I though. While I thought I had measured for the circle cutouts OK, it seems I need to be a little more careful in the future. At least MDF isn't too expensive, so having to scrap a couple of baffles isn't too painful.

[BeerParty]

And a picture of my glue up of the front baffle, just for alexwakelin .

[BeerParty]

Question on installation of precision port

Question for the experienced people out there...

I am planning on gluing my port (I have the 2" Precision Port kit from Parts Express as per the plans) to the rear panel, and I know I need to get it all installed before the front baffle is put on - is there anything else I need to be aware of? I was just going to use hot glue to attach it, is there a better glue I should use? I am worried about getting a good seal between the port and the MDF.

[impala454]

I used plumber's PVC glue on mine and it worked well. (two part stuff)

[shame302]

Chris, Progress looks great. You're gonna love them! So where in NH are you located?

[FroDaddy]

Question for the experienced people out there...

I am planning on gluing my port (I have the 2" Precision Port kit from Parts Express as per the plans) to the rear panel, and I know I need to get it all installed before the front baffle is put on - is there anything else I need to be aware of? I was just going to use hot glue to attach it, is there a better glue I should use? I am worried about getting a good seal between the port and the MDF.

I used some Gorilla glue I had lying around.

[DeathMonk]

I used plumber's PVC glue on mine and it worked well. (two part stuff)

Same. But use very little

[BeerParty]

I used plumber's PVC glue on mine and it worked well. (two part stuff)

I have some of that two part stuff for PVC, which I got to put the port parts together. I have not looked at the directions yet, but if it will work on MDF I'll certainly use it.

Same. But use very little

Does this mean it doesn't sand very well, or is there something else I need to watch out for?

Thanks everyone!

[BeerParty]

Chris, Progress looks great. You're gonna love them! So where in NH are you located?

I am located in southern NH (Milford, specifically).

Your statement setup looks nice, you must have an extremely understanding wife I just found you statement build thread (hmm, I thought I had seen them all), I'll have to take some time to read through it.

[DeathMonk]

I have some of that two part stuff for PVC, which I got to put the port parts together. I have not looked at the directions yet, but if it will work on MDF I'll certainly use it.


Does this mean it doesn't sand very well, or is there something else I need to watch out for?

Thanks everyone!

PVC glue melts plastic (how it creates a watertight bond). Just be careful of the excess ruining any of the plastic finish you can see.

[BeerParty]

PVC glue melts plastic (how it creates a watertight bond). Just be careful of the excess ruining any of the plastic finish you can see.

I see, good info to know. Thank you.

[impala454]

I have some of that two part stuff for PVC, which I got to put the port parts together. I have not looked at the directions yet, but if it will work on MDF I'll certainly use it.


Does this mean it doesn't sand very well, or is there something else I need to watch out for?

Thanks everyone!

Oh no you don't want to use it on the MDF, I thought you just meant to glue the pieces of the create-a-port kit together. One thing you might try that worked well for me (mostly on accident) is to cut your hole for the port really tight. Mine just wedges in nice and snug with no fasteners or glue.

[shame302]

Your statement setup looks nice, you must have an extremely understanding wife I just found you statement build thread (hmm, I thought I had seen them all), I'll have to take some time to read through it.

Ha...My thread is nothing revolutionary. on the port, i used cyanoacrylate (super glue) to set the port length. the larger ports use screws, if these aren't than i would try to make the hole somewhat press-fit or friction-fit tight and maybe use a touch of construction adhesive (like liquid nail) behind the flange where it cant be seen.

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Guys,

A couple thoughts. Gluing the ports together with PVC glue is fine but gluing the port to the cabinet will only cause you grief if you should have to remove them later. I would suggest you use the same sealing method on the port to cabinet as you use on your drivers. I like closed cell window weatherstripping that can be purchased very inexpensively at any home or hardware store. It goes on/off easily and seals well.

Jim

[BeerParty]

Hi Guys,

A couple thoughts. Gluing the ports together with PVC glue is fine but gluing the port to the cabinet will only cause you grief if you should have to remove them later. I would suggest you use the same sealing method on the port to cabinet as you use on your drivers. I like closed cell window weatherstripping that can be purchased very inexpensively at any home or hardware store. It goes on/off easily and seals well.

Jim

When I was test fitting my port, I noticed that the front port flare will not fit through the port hole (where the rear flare mounts). That's why I planned on gluing the port into the cabinet - it seemed silly to screw in the port when you can't remove the port from the cabinet.

What did you do, trim down the inner port flare so it will fit through the hole?

I was thinking about doing this (trimming the inner port flare so it would fit through the hole), since it would make finishing the cabinet much easier, but wasn't sure how that would impact the build. The other option is to not glue the inner flare to the tube and just leave the flared part inside the cabinet when I remove the rest of the port. I think I could install and tape the flare to the port tube through the tweeter hole

[ThomasW]

What did you do, trim down the inner port flare so it will fit through the hole?

You shouldn't trim the flare at all.

Tape will probably let go. I tend to use hot glue when putting flares together.

[Jim Holtz]

When I was test fitting my port, I noticed that the front port flare will not fit through the port hole (where the rear flare mounts). That's why I planned on gluing the port into the cabinet - it seemed silly to screw in the port when you can't remove the port from the cabinet.

What did you do, trim down the inner port flare so it will fit through the hole?

I was thinking about doing this (trimming the inner port flare so it would fit through the hole), since it would make finishing the cabinet much easier, but wasn't sure how that would impact the build. The other option is to not glue the inner flare to the tube and just leave the flared part inside the cabinet when I remove the rest of the port. I think I could install and tape the flare to the port tube through the tweeter hole

Hi Chris,

Well, I did exactly what Thomas said not to. ops: I trimmed about 1/16" off two opposing sides on the inner flare and shoved it through the port hole cutout. I glued all of the port together except for the inner flare which is press fit on the tube. It fits very securely. I don't transport my cabinets or move them around so I wasn't concerned about it coming off.

The other option is to simply place the inner flare inside the cabinet before gluing the front baffle on. It won't come out in one piece but you won't need it to.

Jim

[BeerParty]

The other option is to simply place the inner flare inside the cabinet before gluing the front baffle on. It won't come out in one piece but you won't need it to.

Well, I tried test fitting the inner port to the tube without any glue, and it was pretty tight, so I think I'll go with this suggestion. Thanks Jim. :T

I guess now I have to drill some holes in the outer flare flange and get some more bolts and T-nuts. The flange has markings on it for drilling the holes, so at least I don't have to try and make the holes symmetrical by hand.

[BeerParty]

Some additional progress to report...

I got the T-nuts, drilled holes for the port and installed:



Test fitting the Port (it fits in this box, I wasn't so lucky with the other one):



Working on the front baffles as well...





...and some more T-nuts...



I am calling it quits for now - so far today I have managed to:
* break a shear pin in my snow-thrower in such a way that it will not come out
* spill soda in my car (twice in the same trip!)
* strip 1 of the screws for the front baffle
* break 2 screws in the T-nuts (both had to be drilled out)
* drop the camera (still working, thank goodness)

I am going to have some dinner and sit in front of the TV for the rest of the evening so I don't break anything else! :W

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Chris,

Your progress looks great! :T

Your day's adventures made me laugh. If it's any help, I've had years like that so I hope yours passes in a day. :rofl:

Jim

[BeerParty]

Well, some good did come out of it. My wife took pity on me and made some homemade beef stew for dinner. Then she handed me the remote, kissed me goodnight, and took the kids to bed.

Hopefully my plans for this coming weekend work out better. :later:

[BeerParty]

Made some progress, but not much.

Finished off the back baffle mid tunnel:





Now that I have a 45 degree bevel on the tunnel, I need to figure out a new finish to use. I was planning to laminate all around, but that won't work now (will it?)

[BeerParty]

I also started installing foam inside, it gets kind of cramped in there with the first 1" of foam, don't know how it will look with a second layer...



As you can see, I left space on either side for the crossovers. Should I put foam over the top of the crossovers or should I leave clear space around them?

Edit - Hm, just looked at the last picture again, and realized the carpet and the foam look alike. Just in case anyone wonders, the mid tunnel doesn't have any foam in it yet - that is just the carpeting. I am holding off on the foam in the tunnel until after the rear gets finished.

[Jim Holtz]

I also started installing foam inside, it gets kind of cramped in there with the first 1" of foam, don't know how it will look with a second layer...



As you can see, I left space on either side for the crossovers. Should I put foam over the top of the crossovers or should I leave clear space around them?

Edit - Hm, just looked at the last picture again, and realized the carpet and the foam look alike. Just in case anyone wonders, the mid tunnel doesn't have any foam in it yet - that is just the carpeting. I am holding off on the foam in the tunnel until after the rear gets finished.

Hi Chris,

You really don't need to worry about putting foam in the top 1/2 of the cabinet above the mid tunnel. The purpose of the foam is to dampen any sound waves that would bounce back into the rear of the driver. I also wouldn't put foam over the top of the crossover but I would place foam around it snugly. Cover any bare MDF you can see looking through the woofer cutout.

Jim

[BeerParty]

Hi Chris,

You really don't need to worry about putting foam in the top 1/2 of the cabinet above the mid tunnel. The purpose of the foam is to dampen any sound waves that would bounce back into the rear of the driver. I also wouldn't put foam over the top of the crossover but I would place foam around it snugly. Cover any bare MDF you can see looking through the woofer cutout.

Jim

Thanks Jim. I already glued the foam into the top 1/2, so it'll probably stay. But I'll make sure all the MDF in the lower half is covered.

[vinceb]

I was planning to laminate all around, but that won't work now (will it?)

No but you can prime (BIN shellac works great on MDF, thanks guys!) and put a couple layers of paint on it before you veneer, then touch up if needed later.

[Ray Collins]

Nice work; motivates me to start a new project.

Ray

[BeerParty]

No but you can prime (BIN shellac works great on MDF, thanks guys!) and put a couple layers of paint on it before you veneer, then touch up if needed later.

I have been thinking about it, and this is my plan right now...

I am going to paint the back, top, and bottom black. I will then cover the front and sides with a wood veneer (maple, I think), wrapping the veneer around the front corners routed with a 3/4" roundover. I got the idea for a two tone look from Marks Statements (a beautiful set of speakers), but I wanted the wood on the front and sides.

The question I have right now is should I put on the veneer before or after I paint? If I put it on before, I risk damaging the veneer while I paint; if I put it on after the edge of the veneer will be visible. I have no experience with veneer, so I'll probably try a couple tests with scrap to see which looks better.

[BeerParty]

Nice work; motivates me to start a new project.

Ray

Thanks!

[tf1216]

Hi BeerParty,

I live in Manchester, NH. I am building up DIY speakers myself. Maybe we can have a shootout some time.

[BeerParty]

I live in Manchester, NH. I am building up DIY speakers myself. Maybe we can have a shootout some time.

That would be cool. What are you building? And did you ever get your friend to cut the parts on his CNC machine (your thread) (yea, I'm jealous )?

[tf1216]

That project never got off the ground. I approached him with a simple rectangular box design and he smirked at me suggesting that it was too elementary for him. I then came up with an elaborate design similar to the Rockport Technologies' Altair which he agreed to help build. He spent numerous hours trying to model the design and then just quit. He told me to go somewhere else. It was a really awkward situation.

I then found a builder (Lee Taylor, www.taylorspeakers.com ) to build the speakers for me. I am currently working on finishing them.

The drivers for the speakers are RAAL 140-15D, AudioTechnology 18H and ScanSpeak 26W/8867T.

[BeerParty]

Another progress report, I'm afraid it is not going to be very impressive. :unsure:

Crossovers installed and wired for the drivers:





I used industrial strength Velcro to attach the crossovers, then had to pry them out with a screwdriver to attach the wires. I have my fingers crossed, hoping I don't have to pull them out after the baffles are on. All I can say is, it is starting to get pretty crowded in there.

The front baffles are glued, and clamped right now. And of course, one of them is undersized . I see more glue and MDF in my future. I'll just need to trim it down, sand it, and it will all be covered by veneer right? (sigh)

The good news is I figured out how to get the inner port flair through the rear baffle hole after the port is put together - I just widened the hole in the rear baffle a little. The outer flair is screwed on and will cover the gap. So the ports are all glued up and ready to install. At least something went right.

[BeerParty]

I then found a builder (Lee Taylor, www.taylorspeakers.com ) to build the speakers for me. I am currently working on finishing them.

The drivers for the speakers are RAAL 140-15D, AudioTechnology 18H and ScanSpeak 26W/8867T.

Can't wait to see them, we will absolutely have to get together when both of us are finished (or at least one of us ).

[tf1216]

I plan on working on the speakers more this weekend. I think they are ready for the first round of base coat.

[69Stingray]

Hello Fellow Granite Staters.

The question I have right now is should I put on the veneer before or after I paint? If I put it on before, I risk damaging the veneer while I paint; if I put it on after the edge of the veneer will be visible. I have no experience with veneer, so I'll probably try a couple tests with scrap to see which looks better.

I would paint first, then veneer. For the edge between the side and the front baffle, rabbit in a piece of solid wood if possible. If you front baffles were not already made, I would recommend a removable front baffle made of solid wood.

The edge of the veneer on the back and top, just sand at a 45 degree angle to blend it in (have blue painters tape on the painted sections during sanding).

Excellent looking build!

Image not available

Image not available

[BeerParty]

I would paint first, then veneer. For the edge between the side and the front baffle, rabbit in a piece of solid wood if possible. If you front baffles were not already made, I would recommend a removable front baffle made of solid wood.

The edge between the sides and the front baffle are getting a 3/4" round-over, which will then get wrapped with the veneer. The front baffle is already made and glued on I'm afraid, so a removable front baffle is no longer an option.

The edge of the veneer on the back and top, just sand at a 45 degree angle to blend it in (have blue painters tape on the painted sections during sanding).

I'll try that to see how it looks, thanks for the suggestion.

[BeerParty]

I am a bit behind in post my build progress photos, time to catch up...

Crossovers and wiring installed:





The front baffles have been glued on and the 3/4" edge routed, but I havn't pulled the pictures off the camera yet.

[mikela]

Chris,

Don't forget to bevel the end of the foam in the tunnels to a 45 degree angle.

Mike

[ahaik]

Hello Fellow Granite Staters.

I would paint first, then veneer. For the edge between the side and the front baffle, rabbit in a piece of solid wood if possible. If you front baffles were not already made, I would recommend a removable front baffle made of solid wood.

The edge of the veneer on the back and top, just sand at a 45 degree angle to blend it in (have blue painters tape on the painted sections during sanding).

Excellent looking build!

Hi 69Stingray,
In your picture some of the sides of the maple look a little orange, is that real or is it just the picture?

[BeerParty]

Got the pictures off the camera, so time to post an update.

Front baffles are attached and routed:



Front and backs, lookin' good!





Now I am waiting on veneer. I have some clear maple on order, but it won't arrive until next week. In the mean time these boxes will get sanded and cleaned up, and the drivers will get the gasket material attached.

And if I get really anxious, I suppose I could hook everything up and try them out...