Just checked mine. They too are about 2 inches away from the magnet. I bought the kit from menescus so they likely sized them as intended.
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Would there be any harm in doing a 1/2" roundover on the mid tunnel exits? Then trimming the foam back 1/2"
I'll be using roundover as a design element for the finish, and would like to do this if there is no detrimental reason not to?Comment
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Removed all the drivers last night to start finishing this weekend (I hope)
I finally found feet! I need to be able to move these from non-optimal "just watching the news" position to "ok, let's listen!" position on the regular. Spikes are a no go, and flat bottom speakers float on the thick carpet too much / tilt to one side, etc..
These are 2" wide, shallow cone shape, 5/16 threaded hole on a 1" base. Should be plenty strong enough, should slide on the carpet, and just tall enough to give the speakers that floating above the ground look. Really nice Morton machine shop knobs. Usually around 15 to 20 bucks each, I found a surplus seller on ebay with a pack of 14 for $50, so the sub woofer will get matching feet now too.
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Nice. I wish I had a room specific for home theater and music listening that had carpet. Since I have tile, I used heavy duty black rubber feet. Speakers look like they are floating as well and very stable.Comment
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Like I said - Slowest build ever, ha!
First spot / glaze putty coat with one coat of primer sanded rough to 220. I'll sand to 400 on the veneer application surfaces. I'm using PSA veneer, so this surface prep should adhere very well. Then I'll pick out imperfections, glaze, block sand, and prime again, and maybe again on the paint application surfaces. Paint will be satin white. I do the typical spray, wet sand, spray, wet sand, final spray. When all goes well the final spray lays down perfectly. Satin is forgiving.
I'm really liking the complimentary roundovers (front sides, back top/bottom)
I got my walnut veneer for the front & sides finally! (this part legitimately worries me...)
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Curious why all the effort on the mdf if you are veneering? The veneer will hide quite a bit. Be worried, very worried about the veneer around the rounded edges. I found that the more sap lines, the easier it was to wrap. I had a few blemishes, but sanding and colored pencils helped hide those.Comment
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I hear ya - right or wrong it's because I bought PSA veneer, which will stick so much better to a smooth sealed surface. And because I already needed to fill and prime the painted sides, so another three cans of primer is an easy way to seal it up and give me a 400 grit smooth surface for the PSA veneer. And because I know paint prep far better than I know veneer prep, for whatever that's worth
So I figured instead of buying sealer and learning something new, I'd stick with what I know and just do it.
Oh, trust me, I am legitimately frightened of the entire veneer process! The sample I have was able to wrap around a sharpie pen without splitting, so I hope hope hope I don't have a bad spot along the way and 3/4r will be fine. You scaring me now! ha! :EComment
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Sealing the joints and surface is a good idea, it will help reduce potential joint telegraphing down the road. Also, you could use some of this to help with cracking when you apply the veneer around the radius. https://www.veneersupplies.com/produ...nditioner.html I think this is typically used on raw veneer, but I think it couldn't hurt. This website in general, is pretty good for all kinds of questions you might have.Comment
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Wouldn't you have to seal the inside as well?Comment
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You do not want to seal the inside of the box, unless you want the wood to possibly rot...Michael
Chesapeake Va.Comment
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Lol, my father in law who does woodworking for many years thought I was nuts. I only did it cause I thought it would look good and I didn't know better. But, I did test as you described on test material to see of it would roll without splitting. It did, but again, the more sap vane the better it rolls. I had some hard spots on one sheet that split or wouldnt roll over. Lesson learned, but overall I'm they came out good.Comment
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I don't really think that is true. With dry mdf in a house, sealed should not be an issue at all.Comment
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Alright.
Applying 4ft wide veneer is ... nerve racking. My awesome wife helped, and her end turn out better than my end! Worked from one side to the other wrapping around. Scraped with as much pressure as I could without damaging the veneer with a 1x3 with a smoothed edge to work out any bubble, and ensure good adhesion. Then scraped again 30 minutes later. I'll do a natural oil finish, no tint, with some sanding while wet on the final coats to hopefully fill the grain in smooth and buff to a satin finish.
Rear, terminal posts installed, port tube installed.
Front, used a low profile laminate trim bit. It was short enough to trim veneer around the tweeter even.
Top. Trimming the curves was a pain. Use a new blade any time you are about to do a difficult cut across the grain, then make multiple passed to score first.
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Very, very Nice! :T
JimComment
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Curves. Are. A. Pain.
Prep, sanding, everything was just so much more work.
Painting, you try to move from horizontal to vertical surfaces in one coat so it blends nice. (not so worried about the bottom) This is tough. Then you think you're all good and realize you need another coat to make it better. But now a new flaw pops up. IT'S GOOD ENOUGH! lol
Wrap around veneering, it just adds so much difficulty in order to not get any bubbles and a perfect wrap. I only had a margin of 1/4" top to bottom on the veneer as we wrapped it around.
I'm conflicted. Having done it and see the results now I can't imagine doing flat, square, plain boxes again. Also having done it, I don't really want to do it again, ever :E I can also see ways I could do it better though. It didn't help that I dragged it out so long. Every step was like motivating myself to start a project again. Lost momentum is a killer on something like this.Comment
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Couldn't agree more. My next project dual subs will likely be out of Baltic birch so I won't have to veneer. Once I finish it, if I decide to veneer anyways, then maybe I will. But I'm hoping to finish the Baltic so I won't need veneer.
Something else I had to keep telling myself. Nobody is going to see the defects that I know exist. So, basically don't sweat small imperfections.Comment
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I already tore apart my sub and bought a sheet of MDF to make a new matching box....I don't want to. But...I feel like I have to now.Comment
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Actually, the Finalist or the Statements II centers match so well, we've never seen a reason to develop any other designs. I use a Statements II center in my system which has been matched up with Anthology's, Finalists, Travelers, Statements II's and Bordeaux. I found them all to be seamless in integration and panning. Common voicing is the key, IMHO.
HTH
JimComment
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The Statements II center does, the Finalist doesn't. It has a Morel dome. The center channel rules in a surround system and carries up to 70% of the sound by anchoring the main sound to the screen. The mains are effects channels and provide panning and "fill" sound for the movie. The tweeter plays a much smaller role than when you listen to music. The key is the voicing is the same for all the speakers.
This is not a SWAG, I listen to them every day.
HTH
JimComment
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Ah, the photo on meniscus shows a ribbon but it does have the morel tweeter in the parts list. This is what I have now per your help and working with selah to convert my existing center as a sealed solution due to my entertainment center limitations. It sounds good, but can sound boxy at times likely due to the fact that I can't take it out and let it breathe. I have considered changing that configuration so maybe that will be next after I solve my sub situation.
Sorry to hijack OP.
Thanks again Jim.Comment
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Here's the final. First one done. After the white paint is fully hardened in a month or so, I'll buff it out and it should brighten up a bit.
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Very nice ...... :T:TComment
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Sand 180 then 220. Teak oil, wiped off, dried a few hours.
More teak oil, sanded while wet with 400, dried a few hours, do it again.
Sanding while wet fills the grain and makes it smith to the touch. For a smoother, glossier finish let each coat dry overnight after sanding. I rushed it for a satin finishComment
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This is the REAL question, isn't it? Unfortunately the paint on my second enclosure had a few bugs on it (literally, follow the trail of footprints until you find the deal fly...jerks!), and a run I'm not happy with. Since then the weather has turned cold and humid, so terrible for painting. I'll plastic off the garage in a few weeks and finish it up!
I did get a few weeks on them before I took them apart again for prep & finish. They're sort of amazing.
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And THANKS!!!Comment
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Sorry about the paint issue but I'm pleased you're enjoying the music.This is the REAL question, isn't it? Unfortunately the paint on my second enclosure had a few bugs on it (literally, follow the trail of footprints until you find the deal fly...jerks!), and a run I'm not happy with. Since then the weather has turned cold and humid, so terrible for painting. I'll plastic off the garage in a few weeks and finish it up!
I did get a few weeks on them before I took them apart again for prep & finish. They're sort of amazing.
JimComment
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Jim, I know you stated before that the center is the most important and 70% of the sound comes from the center during movies, but the score of a movie is simply exceptional with these towers. The score of movies, good movies that is, is really moving with these towers.Comment
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My 70% rule of thumb is an average for most movies that are dominated by voice. However, I appreciate your feedback on movies that have well done musical scores which is something I have also noticed and enjoyed. The reason the Statements, Anthology's, Bordeaux and Travelers sound so good on both music and movies is all due to Curt's crossover expertise and the help he gives me in coming up in a well thought out and tested design. Curt is the without a doubt, the expert of our collaboration. He's the man!
Enjoy the music!
JimComment
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Just looked through the updates. Everything looks great! Good job on the finish work. I hope you get the bugs worked out with the second speaker.Comment
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quick question, I have the Hitachi plunge/fixed base router kit, and was about to order the jasper jig for it which says the it fits the M12V, but then I read a review on amazon.com for the jasper jig that says only 2 of the mounting holes line up with the M12V and it causes the router to "wobble"... -
Hello all,
Last weekend I was attempting to mount my new Jasper Jig to my router (a Firestorm by Black & Decker FP1000) and was only able to get 2 of the baseplate mounting holes to align. Is that enough to safely use the jig on my router? I assume it will work okay but I'm not certain.... -
I have the Dewalt 621 and the Jasper Jig model 200 and I cannot for the life of me figure out how to attach it. The holes do not line up. What is the secret? Thanks. -
Sorry for the dumb question, but I received my new router on Saturday (Bosch 1617EVS 2.25hp plunge) and my Jasper Jigs.
I can't figure out how to attach the jig to the base of the router so that everything is flush... do I 'sandwich' the Jasper between the aluminum base and the plastic... -
I bought one of the jasper jigs to do the cutouts for my sub. My next project is the modula mt so I bought the smaller jig. When you initially mount the jig they have you use the clear plastic knockout in the center of the jig to ensure that the jig is centered.
For those of you...
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