Another Statement Monitor build

[diamondjoequimb]

Expect slow progress here, fellas.

Anyway, I got all the MDF cut at the shop a few days ago,



I got the mid tunnels glued together and am getting the sides assembled now, I'll try to get a pic of them tomorrow. (if I feel like walking in the shop when it is 108* here tomorrow) :evil:

Also, because I physically can't do the simple easy thing, and I'm a glutton for punishment, I have decided to finish these with a french polish. I've never done any wood finishing before so I figure why not start by learning an old school labor intensive technique, right?

Anyway, I put together a test panel to practice technique on before I tackle the cabinets.

This is after 2 bodying sessions



and sans flash:



I'll try to keep this updated, but the way my projects tend to go I'm hoping I finish in 6-8 mos. :lol:

Cheers!

[impala454]

Nice finish! Can't wait to see it on the final cabinets!

[technodanvan]

No kidding, that'll look goooood...

[Norm]

Very nice test piece on your finish. Very good idea perfecting your technique on a not-part-of-the-speaker panel. What veneer and/or stain is providing the color?

[diamondjoequimb]

Very nice test piece on your finish. Very good idea perfecting your technique on a not-part-of-the-speaker panel. What veneer and/or stain is providing the color?

It is a generic maple veneer from a sample pack I picked up at a local hardwood supplier. My plan is to use either curly or birdseye maple on the actual speakers.

The tint is TransTint Bordeaux cut in water, and the shellac is a garnet color from Woodcraft.

I will do more prep work on the speakers themselves to even the finish a little better, but I'm pretty pleased with the test panel as of now.

[BeerParty]

Looking forward to your build, they should look fantastic with that type of finish on them.

[diamondjoequimb]

Some progress...



and the center sections of the enclosures done



I found a local guy who will CNC the front baffles for me for $25 ea (score!). Just waiting on the woofers that are on b/o from PE so I can get the correct depth to mill down so everything sits flush.

[diamondjoequimb]

Quick question about cabinet damping; I know the plans call for a 2" foam in the woofer portion of the cabinets. I have some Focal Black Hole 5 laying around from another project. Any reason that wouldn't work?

Also. what is the recommended material for the mid-tunnels? I'm having a hard time pinning down what most people are using.

[BeerParty]

Quick question about cabinet damping; I know the plans call for a 2" foam in the woofer portion of the cabinets. I have some Focal Black Hole 5 laying around from another project. Any reason that wouldn't work?

Also. what is the recommended material for the mid-tunnels? I'm having a hard time pinning down what most people are using.

The plans call for 1" foam in the mid-tunnel. I used 1" Acoustic Foam from Parts Express.

I don't know anything about Focal Black Hole 5 so can't help you there.

[diamondjoequimb]

The plans call for 1" foam in the mid-tunnel. I used 1" Acoustic Foam from Parts Express.

I don't know anything about Focal Black Hole 5 so can't help you there.

thanks

The Black Hole 5 is this stuff:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-886

It was dumb expensive and I'd never actually buy it for something like this, but like I said I acquired some for free, so I'd like to use it if it will work.

[diamondjoequimb]

Finished buffing out my test panel of French polished maple veneer. I'm glad I did this as a test. I picked up a few things I think will make the finish on the cabinets even better. Anyway here is a crappy iPhone pic:

[Jim Holtz]

thanks

The Black Hole 5 is this stuff:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-886

It was dumb expensive and I'd never actually buy it for something like this, but like I said I acquired some for free, so I'd like to use it if it will work.

Yep, Blackhole5 will work fine. 1" foam in the tunnels as indicated.

It looks great! :T

Jim

[diamondjoequimb]

Yep, Blackhole5 will work fine. 1" foam in the tunnels as indicated.

It looks great! :T

Jim

Thanks Jim!

[BeerParty]

Wow, that panel looks great!

[JonP]

It is a generic maple veneer from a sample pack I picked up at a local hardwood supplier. My plan is to use either curly or birdseye maple on the actual speakers.

The tint is TransTint Bordeaux cut in water, and the shellac is a garnet color from Woodcraft.

I will do more prep work on the speakers themselves to even the finish a little better, but I'm pretty pleased with the test panel as of now.

Nice... Those are going to look dramatic... :T

Yep, the TransTint dyes work well with Shellac... no problem there. I like how that added an extra push to the red from the the basic garnet color.

I would pass along that you should try to keep the shellac layer thin. I once did a very heavy coat (many, many sprayed layers) and over time it developed tiny cracks in the finish. Though doing French Polishing, you probably won't put on anywhere near enough to be a problem.

Wondering how diluted (cut) is the mix you using for the French Polish? That might be something to experiment with, cutting it thinner with alcohol for more, thinner layers. It might level out smoother that way. And hey, it would be even more labor intensive! :evil:

Awesome... keep the pics coming!

[diamondjoequimb]

Nice... Those are going to look dramatic... :T

Yep, the TransTint dyes work well with Shellac... no problem there. I like how that added an extra push to the red from the the basic garnet color.

I would pass along that you should try to keep the shellac layer thin. I once did a very heavy coat (many, many sprayed layers) and over time it developed tiny cracks in the finish. Though doing French Polishing, you probably won't put on anywhere near enough to be a problem.

Wondering how diluted (cut) is the mix you using for the French Polish? That might be something to experiment with, cutting it thinner with alcohol for more, thinner layers. It might level out smoother that way. And hey, it would be even more labor intensive! :evil:

Awesome... keep the pics coming!

On the test panel I did a 2lb cut for most of he bodying, then started thinning it pretty good w/ alcohol after the 800 grit sanding.

That was probably 6 body sessions, then a 400 grit sanding, then 3 bodying, then 800 grit, then 2 bodying cut really thin w/ alcohol, then Meguiers #7 glaze, then a coat of carnauba wax.

[Matt ITD]

Hi All,

Can anyone please confirm that the cutout for the port on the monitors is 4 1/4"?

Thanks
Matt

[mattsk8]

Those are looking fantastic!

Couple questions about your finishing methods...

Are you padding or spraying the shellac? Also, are you using Tiger Flakes shellac from Woodcraft? (Never done french polish before so I don't know the order).

Also, are you spraying the TransTint, wiping, or foam brush?

[diamondjoequimb]

Those are looking fantastic!

Couple questions about your finishing methods...

Are you padding or spraying the shellac? Also, are you using Tiger Flakes shellac from Woodcraft? (Never done french polish before so I don't know the order).

Also, are you spraying the TransTint, wiping, or foam brush?

Foam brush on the TransTint. Bordeaux is the color. Put a layer down, let it dry a bit, wiped off the excess, let dry completely, and re-applied another layer of tint the same way until I got the color where I wanted it. (after 1 coat it was like a bright salmon color)

I'm padding the shellac w/ a cotton muneca. Small pad of old t-shirt wrapped up in a slightly larger square of t-shirt material.

I'm using the Garnet Tiger Flakes, dissolved in Everclear with a 2lb cut.

Hoping to start on the actual cabs soon.

[BeerParty]

Hi All,

Can anyone please confirm that the cutout for the port on the monitors is 4 1/4"?

Thanks
Matt

Depends on what port you are using. Are you buying the ports from Parts Express or will you get something local? If you are planning to buy locally, you'll need to measure your actual port. If you are getting it from PE, I'll go downstairs and measure the port on my Statement Monitors.

[mattsk8]

Foam brush on the TransTint. Bordeaux is the color. Put a layer down, let it dry a bit, wiped off the excess, let dry completely, and re-applied another layer of tint the same way until I got the color where I wanted it. (after 1 coat it was like a bright salmon color)

I'm padding the shellac w/ a cotton muneca. Small pad of old t-shirt wrapped up in a slightly larger square of t-shirt material.

I'm using the Garnet Tiger Flakes, dissolved in Everclear with a 2lb cut.

Hoping to start on the actual cabs soon.

Thanks for the response! Curious cuz I'm making my first attempt w/ shellac. Hasn't gone well so far. At first I got blonde tiger flakes from Woodcraft and they wouldn't disolve in denatured alcohol. I let it set for a week, with shaking and stirring and still wouldn't disolve. Then I just got clear, dewaxed Zinnser shellac. Zinsser sealcoat is their dewaxed shellac and it's close to blonde. I'm working on cherry. First boiled linseed oil, then spray the shellac, then clear finish. I plan on tinting the shellac w/ Transtint, then spraying as opposed to spraying Transtint, then spraying shellac. I'll do a bunch of practice pieces.

Anyhow, not to rob your thread; just fishing for info . Are you water sanding the shellac before polishing, or just polishing?

[diamondjoequimb]

Thanks for the response! Curious cuz I'm making my first attempt w/ shellac. Hasn't gone well so far. At first I got blonde tiger flakes from Woodcraft and they wouldn't disolve in denatured alcohol. I let it set for a week, with shaking and stirring and still wouldn't disolve. Then I just got clear, dewaxed Zinnser shellac. Zinsser sealcoat is their dewaxed shellac and it's close to blonde. I'm working on cherry. First boiled linseed oil, then spray the shellac, then clear finish. I plan on tinting the shellac w/ Transtint, then spraying as opposed to spraying Transtint, then spraying shellac. I'll do a bunch of practice pieces.

Anyhow, not to rob your thread; just fishing for info . Are you water sanding the shellac before polishing, or just polishing?

After about 6 bodying sessions I did 400 grit wet w/ olive oil. After a few more bodying I did the same w/ 800 grit. Beyond that I bodied until I got the sheen back, polished then waxed.

[Matt ITD]

yes sorry, I want to use the PE port. I hope it is a 4 1/4" hole cause they are cut now.

Thanks

[BeerParty]

yes sorry, I want to use the PE port. I hope it is a 4 1/4" hole cause they are cut now.

Thanks

I'll try to remember to measure the port hole tonight when I get home, but we have guests coming over so no promises.

[BeerParty]

yes sorry, I want to use the PE port. I hope it is a 4 1/4" hole cause they are cut now.

Thanks

Inner hole on mine is 4 1/4", so you should be all set.

[Matt ITD]

Thank you Chris!

[diamondjoequimb]

Finally some progress:



Got the woofer and 1 tweeter x-over assembled. Checked them at work with an RTA and all looks good. Hopefully I'll finish the other tweeter and mid ones off this weekend. My CNC guy is back from vacation so I dropped the baffles and backs off earlier this week.

[diamondjoequimb]

My CNC guy got back from vacation and as a bonus ended up charging me 1/2 of what I expected. So for $50 he did the front and back baffles. Tolerances are well...














And I got all the x-overs put together



Just need to order the tweeters, then I can get all the front baffle chamfers done, get them attached, then start on the veneer/finish work. As of right now I'm aiming to be done around the end of the year.

[impala454]

Looks really nice, totally worth the cash too I'd say!

[Unclejunebug]

So, noob question here. What are those terminals you're using for the ins and outs of your crossovers? I'm about to do a build myself and am looking for something clean, and possibly removable, like this.

These are looking awesome by the way. I'm diggin' that sexy polish :P

[diamondjoequimb]

So, noob question here. What are those terminals you're using for the ins and outs of your crossovers? I'm about to do a build myself and am looking for something clean, and possibly removable, like this.

These are looking awesome by the way. I'm diggin' that sexy polish :P

They are just a barrier strip from Radio Shack that I picked up and then cut down.

[john trials]

You got a great deal at $50 for all that work. Looking good! Just remember to cut the back sides for the woofers and mids for better air flow.

[diamondjoequimb]

You got a great deal at $50 for all that work. Looking good! Just remember to cut the back sides for the woofers and mids for better air flow.

Yeah, I thought $100 was reasonable. I about hit the floor when he told me $50.

I still have to trim the woofer openings, allow for tweeter terminals, and round the edges before I can assemble and veneer.

[diamondjoequimb]

Got the tweeters in today, so I got the scalloping and other touch up on the baffle done today. Quick question, does this look like enough material taken off around the woofer and mid? It is a 45* chamfer with ~3/4" left alone right at the mounting points.



Also, got a chance to wire up the x-overs and make sure I put them together properly. All speakers sounded like they were playing what they should. So I got that going for me.



And as an added bonus I bought a Parasound Halo A23 amp that needs some service work. I talked to Parasound and it sounds like it should be a pretty minor fix. Hoping to have a functioning amp for less that $300, so pretty stoked on that one too.

[NPE]

Got the tweeters in today, so I got the scalloping and other touch up on the baffle done today. Quick question, does this look like enough material taken off around the woofer and mid? It is a 45* chamfer with ~3/4" left alone right at the mounting points.



Also, got a chance to wire up the x-overs and make sure I put them together properly. All speakers sounded like they were playing what they should. So I got that going for me.



And as an added bonus I bought a Parasound Halo A23 amp that needs some service work. I talked to Parasound and it sounds like it should be a pretty minor fix. Hoping to have a functioning amp for less that $300, so pretty stoked on that one too.

For the mid woofer, I was looking at mine through the mid tunnel, and I think the weird thing is that if you go for a 45 degree angle, I calculated the depth to be where the inside of the tunnel would meet, but when the driver is installed, it looks a bit like it's not as 'chamferred' as should be for the driver 'level' to get the ventilation... What I mean by that, if you chamfer more, the tunnel will go over the chamfer and then you just have a big gap between the front baffle and part of the tunnel. So I was actually considering maybe removing the mids and filing/sanding away more, but doing so you'd be ending changing the angle for more than 45 degrees.

I guess it's a bit weird spider woofer shape http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-848 as the spider seems to go straight up instead as a sort of / \ of the inside of the drivers. The Tang Bang is like | |, so if you stuck it in a cylinder for instance, the ventilation would be null because the gap would be small. So I guess what I'm saying is that if you don't want the chamfer to create a gap between the front baffle and the tunnel sides, you'll need more than 45 degrees, or making the 45 degree chamfer deeper than just making it flush with the rear of the front baffle...

Hope that makes sense! 8O

So I guess my question or comment is, if you place the mid tunnel on the baffle, does the chamfer make a gap between tunnel and baffle? If no and it's a 45 degree chamfer, if you place the driver and look through the tunnel, does it look like the mid has plenty of breathing room? I think yours is deeper than mine... So you'd get a little gap but better ventilation.

[diamondjoequimb]

I didn't even look at it through the back. I'll do that tomorrow. But yeah, I see that the chamfers would essentially be blocked by the mid tunnel itself. I suppose I could chamfer the actual tunnel too. Enough people have built these, I would assume someone has run into this at some point.

[NPE]

I didn't even look at it through the back. I'll do that tomorrow. But yeah, I see that the chamfers would essentially be blocked by the mid tunnel itself. I suppose I could chamfer the actual tunnel too. Enough people have built these, I would assume someone has run into this at some point.

Yeah I think someone asked if I had chamfered the insides of my front baffles, now I'm questionning whether mid was enough..:



I think I misunderstood the instructions and calculated the chamfer depth so that the chamfer doesn't create a gap to the tunnel... I think it was 1 inch chamfer that was mentioned? Is that like depth? I used a bit similar to this, don't know the exact size, but the depth was calculated so the outer edge of the chamfer arrives flush to inside of the tunnel, without creating a gap. Think that might have been insufficient...

I'm not sure how I could have done it deeper.. Maybe the bit was too small? Hmm.. Not really larger bit would have made no difference because deeper would have meant wider which would have meant touch tunnel side... Hmm... Maybe I should stop worrying about them and just listen to their great sound.. lol

Don't know what tool I could have used to make the chamfer deeper but not wider so it overlaps the tunnel...

Maybe it's as it's supposed to be... The ventilation isn't like huge, but it does seem decent, hmmm...

[NPE]

Like these seem much more deeper than mine:



Sorry for thread 'hijack' but I got the comment about the chamfer when the cabinet was glued to I think it's better to make sure everything is good before it's all glued! :lol:

[diamondjoequimb]

I'm an idiot. I didn't even think about the fact it is ~3" cutout for the speaker and a 5" opening in the mid tunnel. It is fine.

[diamondjoequimb]

Finally, some progress. Got my bamboo veneer in, and attached to the cabinets. Currently wood-filling the edges where the router chewed them up. Hope to have that done in the next couple of days.



Also, got all the deadening in the cabs as well.



And got the ports painted, and assembled. Also got the rear panels covered using 3M Scotchprint vinyl wrap. Here is what they should look like (minus the grill cloth covering the mid tunnel opening.)



Now only a few days before I can start polishing!

[john trials]

That rear panel with the vinyl wrap looks great. Can you post a photo of the mid tunnel area of wrap? How did you get the vinyl wrapped so smoothly around that edge?

[diamondjoequimb]

That rear panel with the vinyl wrap looks great. Can you post a photo of the mid tunnel area of wrap? How did you get the vinyl wrapped so smoothly around that edge?

That one is actually not perfect. I cut the reliefs a little to big and had to fill in a few spots w/ a sharpie. It looks good unless you get right on top of it. Plust, I ran out of material and the rest came out reall good so I'm going ot live with it. The other one I just kept heating and stretching and it worked all the way around the 1/2" roundover. That stuff is crazy pliable when you apply some heat. I'll post a pic of the good one when I get home.

[WilZirkle]

Looking good

[diamondjoequimb]

Here's a closer view of the mid tunnel roundover covered in 3M Scotchprint. This stuff is pretty awesome. I've used it on auto installs before and thought it perfect for this. For anyone wanting to use it I recommend using the 3M 94 Primer/adhesion promoter. It's great on porous surfaces like MDF.



And here are the filled and sanded cabinets. I just put a light coat of water to raise the grain so I can sand it perfectly smooth before applying the dye and starting the polishing.



And the first coat of dye:



And a thank you to the wife for not saying boo about me commandeering the dining room table for a while. :B

[JonMarsh]

Dining room table. Wow. That's supportive. She's a keeper. I won't even let ME use the dining room table!