Newbie with 1056 questions...

**Scherr** · 16 December 2004, 13:38 Thursday

The Rotel internal test tones are 10 db too low for the subwoofer as compared with Avia on my 1056. Others have had this experience.

Did you set the surround channels to "none"? This is important since you have no surrounds.

Make sure that for bass management, you have toggled subwoofer only and not subwoofer plus fronts.

Dynamic range compression should be set to "MAX" or else some of the sound will be compressed.

Good luck!

Scott

**68Ballistic** · 16 December 2004, 13:41 Thursday

I'll try to answer some of your questions. I just set up my 1056 recently.

- Do I really need to manually adjust my channels for each movie to get the best sound presentation? This seems very frustrating...would rather just stick the DVD in and enjoy the movie without playing with the levels.

I'm not sure why you would have to do this. I don't have to adjust anything when I play different movies.

- Is the low-end DVD player having a tremendous impact? Seems like the receiver is handling the processing and the DVD player is only providing the digital signal. Any recommendations on affordable, quality DVD players - around $250 would be good.

I just replaced my $100 sony 525 DVD player only for picture quality. I used a $50 digital coax cable and the sound was just as good as my new Denon 2900 dvd player. This should not be your problem unless you don't have the dvd menu audio options set correctly.

- Do people recommend separate CD and DVD players?

Only for very picky listeners with very good speakers.

- Even though I don't have surrounds, does it make any difference if I activate 5.1 vs 3.1? I'm wondering if the surround signals are distorting the sound from my Fronts and whether it makes sense to just let my Fronts play only L&R Fronts signal.

Have you tried activating all speakers to small. Your amp will redirect all low frequencies to your amp if they are all set to small. Even though you don't use those speakers try turning them "on". What do you mean by letting your fronts use only left and right signals? Do you have your surround speaker cables and front speaker cables running to your front speakers? Only run your front speakers with you front channel amps. Make sure you have your subwoofer running out of your SB1 preout. Also, you can play with using your subwoofers crossover only and setting the reciever's sub crossover off. This is what I do. I have read before that using both can make the two crossovers "fight" each other. I use a B&W 8" asw300 sub and I barely have the subs volume cracked(maybe 20-25% of the total volume) and I have the reciever set to -6db. When I crank the volume to over 58-60 it will shake the room when playing movies.

- Also I'm hearing static hiss when I put my ears up to the speakers without any sound playing. Is this normal?

This should be a grounding issue. Do you have a good filtering power strip. I use a $80 monster home theater power strip and I have never had any hiss.

- How long does it take to break-in the 1056? How would people describe the difference in sound before and after the break-in period?

My reciever sounded good right out of the box. I am skeptical that I will notice any difference after a month. I think my speakers will break in but not my reciever. Of course this is always up for debate.

- What volume level do people listen at? It seems I have to turn it up to 60-70 on the volume level to hear all the channels clearly. This tends to make some things (dialogue) too loud but if I don't, I seem to miss out on the dynamics of the soundtrack and bass.

Make sure you don't have any dynamic compression on when you play your movies. Turn it off on your reciever and your dvd player(some times called night mode) I listen to movies anywhere from 52 to 68. 68 is almost too loud. I can clearly hear dialogue at levels even below 52.

I hope this helps you. By the way I highly recommend the B&W 601s3 speaker series when you upgrade.

**sunggipark** · 16 December 2004, 15:25 Thursday

Thanks Scott and 68Ballistic.

Couple of clarifications...

- If the Rotel test tones for the subwoofer are 10 db too low, should I be getting 85db on the Subwoofer and 75db on Fronts/Center on the SPL meter?

- Where in bass management can you toggle subwoofer only vs. subwoofer plus fronts?

- Seems there's some disagreement on the Dynamic Range Compression. Should I set it to MAX or turn it all off? What affect does this feature do?

- I do not have any surround speakers. My Fronts and Center are set to small. Since I don't have any surrounds, I'm assuming the signals that would normally go to the Surrounds are now being played back through my Fronts. My question was whether the Surround signals distort in any way the Front signals being played thorough the same speakers? If they do, can I set the system to 5.1 vs. 3.1 so that the Surround signals are not played at all?

- The SVS PB-10ISD is connected through the SB1 preout and only has Gain and Phase control knobs on it. I don't believe I can control the crossover on the sub without going through the receiver. The results you're getting with your B&W 8" makes me curious because my sub is 10" with 300 watts and has some impressive performance charts. I would definately recommend it if anyone is looking for a budget subwoofer. I don't think it can currently be beat at it's price point.

Thanks for the help. I welcome any and all assistance. I'm guessing I will set the receiver back to factory defaults and go through the setup process from the beginning. Any input before I do would help.

**Scherr** · 16 December 2004, 16:02 Thursday

- If the Rotel test tones for the subwoofer are 10 db too low, should I be getting 85db on the Subwoofer and 75db on Fronts/Center on the SPL meter?

This is the correct way to do it or purchase/borrow Avia and use its test tones.

- Where in bass management can you toggle subwoofer only vs. subwoofer plus fronts?

It is located in the subwoofer menu. You have a choice of redirecting bass to the subwoofer only or to sub + fronts.

- Seems there's some disagreement on the Dynamic Range Compression. Should I set it to MAX or turn it all off? What affect does this feature do?

MAX and off are the same on the receiver. MAX means that the dynamic range is at maximum range and that there is no compression. Your DVD player may also have a compression setting and make sure that is off as well
.
- I do not have any surround speakers. My Fronts and Center are set to small. Since I don't have any surrounds, I'm assuming the signals that would normally go to the Surrounds are now being played back through my Fronts. My question was whether the Surround signals distort in any way the Front signals being played thorough the same speakers? If they do, can I set the system to 5.1 vs. 3.1 so that the Surround signals are not played at all?

Without surrounds, the surround channels are redirected to the front three speakers under specs approved by dolby (for dolby digital 5.1 tracks and DD 2.0 tracks).

DTS requires at least 5 speakers and a subwoofer under its specs so I would recommend playing DD tracks.

- The SVS PB-10ISD is connected through the SB1 preout and only has Gain and Phase control knobs on it. I don't believe I can control the crossover on the sub without going through the receiver. The results you're getting with your B&W 8" makes me curious because my sub is 10" with 300 watts and has some impressive performance charts. I would definately recommend it if anyone is looking for a budget subwoofer. I don't think it can currently be beat at it's price point.

Thanks for the help. I welcome any and all assistance. I'm guessing I will set the receiver back to factory defaults and go through the setup process from the beginning. Any input before I do would help.[/QUOTE]

**shadow** · 16 December 2004, 16:50 Thursday

I do not understand this 10 db adjustment for the sub. Any cite to an authoritative source recommending this? Why would this not be mentioned in the manual if it was a problem? I have set my sub equal to the other speakers with Rotel test tones and the bass sounds quite balanced.

**Scherr** · 16 December 2004, 16:56 Thursday

Shadow:

Others in threads here have noticed that the subwoofer test tones were 10db's lower than the other speakers when running test tones under Avia. Here is one of the threads:

HTGuide Forum

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=9384&highlight=test+tones+subwoofer

I compared the internal test tones with Avia and on my 1056, the Rotel test tones were 10db's too low for the sub.

Scott

**Andrew Pratt** · 16 December 2004, 16:56 Thursday

Sounds like you're getting some good advice here. but here's my thoughts anyway.

Questions:

- Do I really need to manually adjust my channels for each movie to get the best sound presentation? This seems very frustrating...would rather just stick the DVD in and enjoy the movie without playing with the levels.

No you shouldn't need to adjust anything once its properly set up.

- Is the low-end DVD player having a tremendous impact? Seems like the receiver is handling the processing and the DVD player is only providing the digital signal. Any recommendations on affordable, quality DVD players - around $250 would be good.

Your player should just fine...if you have funds burning a hole in your pocket buy rear surrounds. For that matter I'd head off to a pawn shop or something similar and buy some $10 speakers to use as surrounds for now...easily the biggest improvement you can make for movies.

- Do people recommend separate CD and DVD players?

A seperate CD player would typically be an upgrade over playing back a CD on most DVD players but for now I'd concentrate on upgrading the speakers.

- Even though I don't have surrounds, does it make any difference if I activate 5.1 vs 3.1? I'm wondering if the surround signals are distorting the sound from my Fronts and whether it makes sense to just let my Fronts play only L&R Fronts signal.

YES! If you don't have surround speakers installed set them to NONE in the Speaker setup otherwise the processor will assume you have them and will direct the surround channels there...which will sound very strange when you don't actually have them! It will also mess up your bass as well to some degree.

- Also I'm hearing static hiss when I put my ears up to the speakers without any sound playing. Is this normal?

Likely yes. If you can hear it from several feet away you might want to look into fixing the grounding in your system but otherwise its not an issue.

- How long does it take to break-in the 1056? How would people describe the difference in sound before and after the break-in period?

If break in does exist it isn't going to radically change the sound so if you're unhappy now that's not going to change with a break in effect.

- What volume level do people listen at? It seems I have to turn it up to 60-70 on the volume level to hear all the channels clearly. This tends to make some things (dialogue) too loud but if I don't, I seem to miss out on the dynamics of the soundtrack and bass

That depends on what you calibrate to. On my system I have everything set fairly low to get the gain I wanted on my sub amp so my reference level will be quiet different then most.

- If the Rotel test tones for the subwoofer are 10 db too low, should I be getting 85db on the Subwoofer and 75db on Fronts/Center on the SPL meter?

Yes that's correct.

- Where in bass management can you toggle subwoofer only vs. subwoofer plus fronts?

Its in the subwoofer menu. Set it to just subwoofer only.

- Seems there's some disagreement on the Dynamic Range Compression. Should I set it to MAX or turn it all off? What affect does this feature do?

You don't want to be running any dynamic range compression on either your DVD player or receiver.

- I do not have any surround speakers. My Fronts and Center are set to small. Since I don't have any surrounds, I'm assuming the signals that would normally go to the Surrounds are now being played back through my Fronts.

True..but only if you set your surrounds to NONE.

My question was whether the Surround signals distort in any way the Front signals being played thorough the same speakers?

Doubtfull.

If they do, can I set the system to 5.1 vs. 3.1 so that the Surround signals are not played at all?

No set the surrounds to NONE until you get some surround channels. As I said above even the cheapest ones you can find at a pawn shop will work for the time being.

- The SVS PB-10ISD is connected through the SB1 preout and only has Gain and Phase control knobs on it. I don't believe I can control the crossover on the sub without going through the receiver. The results you're getting with your B&W 8" makes me curious because my sub is 10" with 300 watts and has some impressive performance charts. I would definately recommend it if anyone is looking for a budget subwoofer. I don't think it can currently be beat at it's price point.

**Scherr** · 16 December 2004, 17:02 Thursday

BTW, I set my sub to 82 db's with a Radio Shack analog sound meter. This translates to 85 db's in the real world because the sound meter has trouble with low bass sounds.

If the Rotel test tones were accurate, I would have used 72 db's for the same reason.

Scott

**shadow** · 16 December 2004, 19:10 Thursday

I read the thread you posted and I still find no reason why Rotel would make a test tone that is 10 db off in the bass response. Is there authoritative posts from experts confirming a defect? 10 db more bass on my sub output would sound very bassy in my room. There was an indication that the increased output might be a software defect in the Avia disc? I have a hard time imagining that Rotel made such a mistake in their test tones with the 1066 and 1055 and then did it again with the 1056 and 1068.

**Scherr** · 16 December 2004, 20:03 Thursday

The Avia disk is accurate. There are countless threads over at the hometheaterforum about this. Other disks have had issues (I think Digital Video Essentials was one of these). You can do a search over at hometheaterforum.

There have been numerous threads here about the Rotel test tones being too low for the subwoofer channel. If you own or can borrow Avia, you can compare and will see that it is exactly 10 db on the subwoofer channel.

I do not think that Rotel did it on purpose in making the subwoofer too low, but it is on my receiver.

If you are happy with the way your receiver sounds, I would leave it alone and enjoy it!

Scott

**stantheman2** · 16 December 2004, 20:27 Thursday

Re setting subwoofer levels on the Rotel RSX-1056, I think some of the previous posts are wrong, or at least subject to misinterpretation. If you have a sound level meter to set the levels of the various speakers, whether you use the test tones from a receiver or the test tones from a test disc, ALL speakers (including the sub),should be set to a reading of 75 dB, "c" scale, slow response ON THE SOUND LEVEL METER. Using test tones, for proper surround sound ALL speakers should provide the same sound level at the listening position.

It may well be that, for the Rotel RSx-1056, that means the sub level the Rotel displays is +5 dB while the Rotel displays the other speakers' leval as as -5dB. However, that is NOT the same as the sound level the listener hears.

I strongly urge you to use a sound level meter to set the speaker levels (Radio Shack makes a great one for $35) - you will NOT be able to balance the levels properly by ear alone.

**shadow** · 16 December 2004, 20:47 Thursday

Originally posted by stantheman2

Re setting subwoofer levels on the Rotel RSX-1056, I think some of the previous posts are wrong, or at least subject to misinterpretation. If you have a sound level meter to set the levels of the various speakers, whether you use the test tones from a receiver or the test tones from a test disc, ALL speakers (including the sub),should be set to a reading of 75 dB, "c" scale, slow response ON THE SOUND LEVEL METER. Using test tones, for proper surround sound ALL speakers should provide the same sound level at the listening position.

It may well be that, for the Rotel RSx-1056, that means the sub level the Rotel displays is +5 dB while the Rotel displays the other speakers' leval as as -5dB. However, that is NOT the same as the sound level the listener hears.

I strongly urge you to use a sound level meter to set the speaker levels (Radio Shack makes a great one for $35) - you will NOT be able to balance the levels properly by ear alone.

I agree wholeheartedly. I guess that maybe this was why I did not understand this 10 db variation. I always use a RS Sound meter, so whether the sub output is the same or 10 db low is irrelevent if you have a meter. Who adjusts their pre/pro w/o a sound meter?

**sunggipark** · 16 December 2004, 21:38 Thursday

more questions

Originally posted by stantheman2

Re setting subwoofer levels on the Rotel RSX-1056, I think some of the previous posts are wrong, or at least subject to misinterpretation. If you have a sound level meter to set the levels of the various speakers, whether you use the test tones from a receiver or the test tones from a test disc, ALL speakers (including the sub),should be set to a reading of 75 dB, "c" scale, slow response ON THE SOUND LEVEL METER. Using test tones, for proper surround sound ALL speakers should provide the same sound level at the listening position.

It may well be that, for the Rotel RSx-1056, that means the sub level the Rotel displays is +5 dB while the Rotel displays the other speakers' leval as as -5dB. However, that is NOT the same as the sound level the listener hears.

I strongly urge you to use a sound level meter to set the speaker levels (Radio Shack makes a great one for $35) - you will NOT be able to balance the levels properly by ear alone.

I believe the point is that Rotel's test tone for the subwoofer is played by the receiver at 10db below the playback level of the test tones of the other speakers at the same volume level. Hence, if you set all speakers to 75db on the SPL meter using the Rotel test tones, in the real world the subwoofer would actually be playing back at 65db and your other speakers playing at 75db.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Another question I have is why is it recommended to set the Subwoofer at -5db? Is it to give it more headroom when adjusting it manually? Why not set it at 0db (flat) and then adjust it in the Subwoofer Advanced Speaker Menu for the individual sound systems i.e. +3db for DD and +1 or so for DTS? Or does it matter as long as you keep track of the adjustments?

Is there any advantage to setting the Rotel Subwoofer crossover to OFF and using the subwoofer's low pass filter?

Also, for my Sony DVD player, the DRC menu doesn't have an OFF option. It only offers Standard, TV MODE, or WIDE RANGE.

Should I set it at WIDE RANGE?

Also the DVD player allows 48khz or 96khz on PMC option. What's the difference and which should I chose?

**Andrew Pratt** · 16 December 2004, 23:29 Thursday

Set it to Wide Range and 96 khz. The higher setting won't likely mean much except for a very select few discs that have a 96 khz 24 bit 2 channel track on them but it won't hurt.

The test tones for the LFE channel are -10dB lower then they ought to be according to my testing as well. Its easy enough to plot out the response and see just where it should be but in my system it was about 9 dB lower then it should be to stay flat so I boosted it and the freq plot now looks much more linear.

**sunggipark** · 17 December 2004, 00:05 Friday

Excellent. Thanks for all the advice.

Have reset the 1056 to manufacturer's default and have begun to respec the receiver and dvd player. Will need to do more work with the SPL meter but I'm predicting better audio results now that I understand the options better.

I've also decided that the audio on American Pie 2 really sucks - the dialogue and soundtrack do not blend at all and the music isn't mixed well - sounds very flat.

Collateral with Tom Cruise and Jamie Foxx on the other hand is awesome. Sounds very good with nice sound effects and soundtrack. Great story except for the ending - predictable and very Hollywood - and kudos to Tom Cruise and Jamie Foxx for their characters. Reminds me of some of John Woo's early characters but I guess that's for a different forum...

**Scherr** · 17 December 2004, 08:55 Friday

As Andrew and others have pointed out, the subwoofer test tones are about 10 db too low when using the Rotel internal test tones. Most of us use a RS analog sound meter, "c" scale. I determined this by comparing the readings of Avia and the internal test tones. All reports I have read are that Avia is accurate.

Technically, the subwoofer should be set 3 db lower than what appears on the RS sound meter because the sound meter does not measure low bass properly. So, if using Avia, you would measure all speakers at 85 db and the subwoofer at 82 db (Avia uses 85 db as reference). If you use 85 db as reference for the subwoofer, you are setting the sub to 88 db.

Scott

Originally posted by stantheman2

Re setting subwoofer levels on the Rotel RSX-1056, I think some of the previous posts are wrong, or at least subject to misinterpretation. If you have a sound level meter to set the levels of the various speakers, whether you use the test tones from a receiver or the test tones from a test disc, ALL speakers (including the sub),should be set to a reading of 75 dB, "c" scale, slow response ON THE SOUND LEVEL METER. Using test tones, for proper surround sound ALL speakers should provide the same sound level at the listening position.

It may well be that, for the Rotel RSx-1056, that means the sub level the Rotel displays is +5 dB while the Rotel displays the other speakers' leval as as -5dB. However, that is NOT the same as the sound level the listener hears.

I strongly urge you to use a sound level meter to set the speaker levels (Radio Shack makes a great one for $35) - you will NOT be able to balance the levels properly by ear alone.

**frankd** · 17 December 2004, 11:07 Friday

Greetings all! First Post.

10db to low. Wow I did not know this. This should explain why I've been under whelmed with my new sub. I used the 1056s test tones to calibrate. I do have the Digital Video Essentials DVD. Should I give that a shot? I noticed it's mentioned earlier in the thread as possibly being inaccurate also. Seems like a pretty big screw up. Also surprised it can't be fixed with firmware. Anyway it's good news for me if it improves my sound. Was wondering how I missed so badly by ear after I pulled the meter out. Anyway thanks for the heads up.

**Bob Knarly** · 17 December 2004, 15:55 Friday

I really just want to comment on the hiss.YES,for Rotel this is normal,at least on the 1056,1067,1068.This is my BIG complaint,to hear hissing from center and surrounds while listening to 2ch music is just really,really stupid.There have been a few here that confirm it but most either tolerate it or deny it.Since its really not an issue if you have speakers with poor upper freq response it gets little complaint,but I will continue to complain every time someone ask about hiss.

You can hook up a 1k power box and it ain't gonna help w/hiss,this is internal to Rotel.Just a note,I have a 1056,I've had several as a matter of fact,I also have a Denon 3802,its dead quiet.

**shadow** · 18 December 2004, 08:28 Saturday

[QUOTE=sunggipark]I believe the point is that Rotel's test tone for the subwoofer is played by the receiver at 10db below the playback level of the test tones of the other speakers at the same volume level. Hence, if you set all speakers to 75db on the SPL meter using the Rotel test tones, in the real world the subwoofer would actually be playing back at 65db and your other speakers playing at 75db.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

I apologize in advance for being obtuse, but I do not understand how it matters if the level of the sub signal in the receiver is 10 db lower than the other five. You measure the audio output with your meter and you balance the output of the sub with the rest of the channels. As long as my radio shack meter says all five channels are putting out 75 db including the sub channel, why would you have to add an additional ten db to the sub channel then. It seems this might make sense if you did not use a meter assuming there is an erroneous output level, but I just cannot seem to figure out why I need the additional output if the sub channel reads the same as the mains on my meter. HELP.

**Kevin D** · 18 December 2004, 09:57 Saturday

If you're setting the sub out using the internal test tones, you are matching to a reference volume that is wrong. Yes, setting everything to match should be right, but the actual output under normal conditions is 10db lower than the test tones.

So I guess the more correct way of saying it would be, a 75db test tone equals a 65db normal output. Setting the sub test tone to 85db will result in a 75db normal output (which correctly matches the 5 main speakers).

Kevin D.

**stantheman2** · 18 December 2004, 11:20 Saturday

Excuse me for butting in again, but I still think folks are describing this wrong. When balancing the speaker volumes, set the level of all five or seven speakers AND the sub so that the sound level meter IN YOUR HAND OR IN A STAND AT THE LISTENING POSITION reads 75 dB on the "C" scale, for each speaker (including sub). It is important to understand that THERE IS NO SOUND LEVEL METER INSIDE A ROTEL RECEIVER.

Now, I have one question, and one comment.

Question: Regarding the comments that the Rotel RSX-1056 sub tone is "too low", I believe people mean that if you use the Rotel test tones to set all sound levels at the listener's position the same, then the relative sub volume level will be too low by 10dB when playing souce material, Is that correct? My experience is similar, although only by about 4 dB or so. If that is true, than use this as a guide for the sub level on the RSX-1056.

Comment: This is regarding the Radio Shack meter. I think an earlier post is incorrect. My understanding is that the response of the Radio Shack meter rolls off at lower frequencies. Thus, if you use a Radio Shack meter to set sound levels, you should set the sub level on the Radio Shack meter 2 to 3 dB HIGHER than the levels for the other speakers. If the main speakers are set so the Radio Shack meter reads 75 dB for the regular speakers, than the sub level should be set so the radio shack meter reading for the sub is 77 or 78 dB. Y'all agree?

Sorry to keep banging away on this, but multiple publications have stressed the importance of exactly matching all speaker sound levels at the listening position. My own experience is that the surround sound fields really "lock in" and sound "right" when the levels are properly set. If one speaker is 1 or 2 dB off, the surround sound field is much less precise, to my ears.

**frankd** · 18 December 2004, 11:56 Saturday

Shadow, this is my understanding of it.

Consider the test tone an input to the amp. If you calibrate to an input that is 10db too high your level will be 10db to low during "normal" playback.

After playing around with the test tones on DVE I ended up not making any level adjustments. I have very little patients for the DVE menu system and my levels didn't seem off. DVE seems so hung up on demonstrating the power of DVDs it's a PITA to use. Wish I went with Avia. So, still not confident in my levels.

**shadow** · 18 December 2004, 12:49 Saturday

The Avia I use indicates that my sub is about 9 db too low on the alternating main-sub test tones. But I keep thinking like Stantheman that if my RS meter says that all outputs and the sub output are putting out 75 db according to the internal test tones, this should be a correct setting. However, the Avia disc tells a differnent story, so one of the two must be wrong....

**Andrew Pratt** · 18 December 2004, 21:14 Saturday

The problem is that the Rotel test tone is recorded at a level that's 10dB lower then the rest. So even if you measure them to be equal with your SPL meter when you play back DVD media you'll quickly find that the LFE level is too low. I guess another way to look at it is that the test tones are all relative to some standard. For Avia its 85 dB to equal true reference level that the DVD's should have been mastered at. So using Avia you'd set up each channel to be equal to 85 dB on your SPL meter. When you use the internal test tones you don't have a way to reference the mastering level like you do with Avia so all you can do is ballence the channels against each other. Now this is fine when all the channels have the same reference point but in the Rotels case the subwoofer tracks reference point is 10 dB lower then what it should be.

Now its not just Rotel that has it wrong...Digital Video Essentials which was produced by Joe Kane also has a error in its subwoofer test tones so its not recomended that you use that disc to set up your subwoofer either.

**Scherr** · 19 December 2004, 08:34 Sunday

Originally posted by stantheman2

Comment: This is regarding the Radio Shack meter. I think an earlier post is incorrect. My understanding is that the response of the Radio Shack meter rolls off at lower frequencies. Thus, if you use a Radio Shack meter to set sound levels, you should set the sub level on the Radio Shack meter 2 to 3 dB HIGHER than the levels for the other speakers. If the main speakers are set so the Radio Shack meter reads 75 dB for the regular speakers, than the sub level should be set so the radio shack meter reading for the sub is 77 or 78 dB. Y'all agree?

This is not correct. Guy Kuo, creator of Avia states as follows:

"On occasion, you may be told that your subwoofer should be calibrated to produce an SPL which is 10 dB higher than the other channels. There is no need to do this with AVIA's subwoofer test tones because they are recorded 10 dB softer to automatically produce a 10 dB higher subwoofer setting when you target the same 85 dB SPL. If one wishes to be technically more correct, the 10 dB offset actually is only true if one is using an RTA to measure sound levels. We're using an SPL which would read about 3 dB lower for the same subwoofer setting. If you want to be completely correct, place sub level 3 dB lower at 82 dB instead of 85 dB SPL."

Keohi HDTV - Expert Tips - Guy Kuo - Avia - Tips from A to Z

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/experttips/guykuo/avia/avia_a2z.html

The problem is that the RS sound meter rolls off at lower frequencies. This means that you have to turn UP the sound meter to reach 85 db so if you set it to 85 db, it is actually 88 db.

Many people like punchier bass with movies and there is nothing wrong with that!

Scott

**shadow** · 19 December 2004, 09:00 Sunday

Thanks to all, epec. Scherr, for the excellent and enlightening info in this thread. It is disappointing that I have had my sub set too low for over a year. :cry: I have set it four or five db higher than indicated for a number of months but I always assumed I did that cause I liked too much bass, not "accurate" bass. I am glad that my need for more bass was not just wretched excess :T It is troubling that Rotel and other manufacturers have got this basic tool wrong. Its inconceivable to me that they could drop the ball so badly on such a critical aspect of system setup.

**Scherr** · 19 December 2004, 15:42 Sunday

No, problem, Shadow. I learned about the 10 db issue from Andrew and all of the other longtimers here. This is one of the best bulletin boards on the net.

Scott

**basementjack** · 02 January 2005, 22:10 Sunday

Does anyone know of a Bass Test DVD that could be downloaded in the form of an ISO file and burned with a PC?

In reading the above posts - it looks like bass calibration is a fairly tricky thing - and we haven't even factored in Room nodes and such.

I'd love a Dolby Digital or DTS clip that plays a series of tones through each speaker.

**BlazeMaster** · 02 January 2005, 23:12 Sunday

You should pick up Avia or DVE for test tones for the sub. I have the DVE and there's bass management frequency sweep in the audio section. I used it to play around with the Phase adjustments for my SVS PB12plus/2 and seems like no matter where the phase is set at, I get a 10dB dip in the 40 Hz region. I think it has alot to do with where the sub is placed at, if I switch my seatings around a little, I should have more options of where to put the sub to get a more linear response.

basementjack2, I have a modest system and can hear difference in the different DVD transfers. Some will sound really loud with alot of impact and some not-so-good.

To the rest of the experts on this forum, the method that I used with the DVE bass management frequency sweep, is that a pretty good interpretation of what kind of frequency response that I'm getting with my sub. As I stated above there's a significant dip in dB in the 40 Hz region, is there anything you guys know of that can smooth out the response to be more linear? I know it's impossible to get it perfectly linear, as there will always be a 2-3 dB difference, even when it's optimally setup. Should I try to put it somewhere else or get bass traps?
I guess what I'm asking is that, is there another more accurate and affordable method of graphing my bass response curve and using some kinda affordable external EQ to smooth it out?

**basementjack** · 02 January 2005, 23:25 Sunday

True RTA

If you are looking for an easier way to run tones and plot results, check out TrueRTA at http://www.trueaudio.com/rta_abt1.htm

I've never used it, they have a free version - might be worth a look. If I had a laptop with a good soundcard I would have already tried it.

- Jack

**basementjack** · 04 January 2005, 20:40 Tuesday

Originally posted by Bob Knarly

I really just want to comment on the hiss.YES,for Rotel this is normal,at least on the 1056,1067,1068.This is my BIG complaint,to hear hissing from center and surrounds while listening to 2ch music is just really,really stupid.There have been a few here that confirm it but most either tolerate it or deny it.Since its really not an issue if you have speakers with poor upper freq response it gets little complaint,but I will continue to complain every time someone ask about hiss.

You can hook up a 1k power box and it ain't gonna help w/hiss,this is internal to Rotel.Just a note,I have a 1056,I've had several as a matter of fact,I also have a Denon 3802,its dead quiet.

Bob - I've read about the hiss here and there, but speaker efficency is never mentioned - a very effiicent speaker would produce any his much louder than an inefficient on - could make all the differece in someone hearing the hiss or not - Do you know the rating of your speakers? should we start a thread to correlate what level on the rotel volume control relates to a set SPL in the room?

**basementjack** · 04 January 2005, 20:42 Tuesday

Another Newbie Question

I just picked up my 1056 today. The display only shows Dolby II not IIx (the silkscreen on the receiver has the Dolby IIx logo) Is this how it displays or should it say Dolby PLIIx? (and if so would it only do that if I've enabled 6 speakers?)

**Kevin D** · 04 January 2005, 21:20 Tuesday

Correct, PLIIx is only available on 6 or 7 speaker setups.

Kevin D.

**Noddy** · 16 January 2005, 07:33 Sunday

QUOTE "So I put in American Pie 2 playing DTS and Dolby Digital and the sound processing seems horrible. Dialogue is clear but the sound track is very weak so it feels like they're at two different volume levels. The bass also sounds very thumpy and uncontrolled. It's not loud but feels separate from the rest of the music.

I then tried Collateral in DTS and Dolby Digital and the soundtrack and special effects sound good (dynamic and powerful) but the dialogue is hard to make out.I had to manually adjust the center speaker to +5 - Max db to hear it clearly.

I also tried Finding Nemo which was overall pretty good but the bass wasn't as powerful as when I was using an entry level Sony receiver. ie. I wasn't feeling the vibrations and power from the subwoofer that I know it is capable of - I could really feel some major air being moved with Sony receiver.

So that's my impressions playing these movies. I'm not complaining about the sound quality (due to the mediocre speakers) as much as how the sound is being processed by the receiver."

I have experienced a similar issue with my new 1056, once i have balanced speaker levels and delays the rotel exibits clear concise dialog but it is difficult to make out what is being said because as soon as there is any surround sound or music it blasts you out of your seat, almost as thou the system is not setup correctly. I have redone the setup again and again and it hasn't changed.

Newbie with 1056 questions...

Newbie with 1056 questions...

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