Scrap Pile Builds: Three Affordable Kits

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  • technodanvan
    Super Senior Member
    • Nov 2009
    • 1483

    #91
    I began my fix on the Keramiskas speaker I gouged the other day. Went pretty well! I just need to cut an appropriate size piece of bamboo to glue into the gap now.

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    After making this notch, I decided to open up the backside of the speakers to reveal the port and terminal cutout. I'm thinking about countersinking the terminal plate (a Dayton aluminum dual post plate) but I haven't decided how that's going to happen yet. It would need to be clean and even, so I can't follow the inside cuts since they were originally made with a jigsaw. Perhaps a coving bit and an edge guide, maybe?

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    - Danny

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    • xandresen
      Member
      • Feb 2015
      • 60

      #92
      If your "repair" notch is centered in the cabinet width, why not fill it with dark walnut or similar to make a fashion statement.

      no matching of grain required.

      Comment

      • technodanvan
        Super Senior Member
        • Nov 2009
        • 1483

        #93
        I did think of doing something like that - the notch is off center a bit, but it could be made centered - and I also considered a metal insert! I have a little cherry, mahogany, and purpleheart on hand right now so I could do it too. However, these are destined to be professionally painted so I elected to just fill it with a 'like' material since I have some on hand. Boring I know, but once we see the final color it will (hopefully) make sense!
        - Danny

        Comment

        • technodanvan
          Super Senior Member
          • Nov 2009
          • 1483

          #94
          This thread isn't done yet! I technically haven't finished any of the three speakers discussed in the original post. That said, I dug the Keramiskas-PC out of the pile of dirty tools, rags, and other garage odds-and-ends yesterday to see where we were. I had filled the notch and cut it down...only to have it split a little in the process. I did the unprofessional thing and decided to just sand it down a little instead of cutting it out and trying again.

          Yesterday I re-rebated the tweeter holes to be a hair deeper and a bit larger. The HiVi was a snug fit previously - absolutely perfect if I wasn't painting - but under the circumstances it needed to be widened a little. Then I started routing all the corners off the box and hit my next snag. First, I was unaware the baffle of one speaker had a chip in it right where the router guide rolled across. Second, all corners except the big roundovers on the front had hardboard on them...and it tended to fall apart when going over it with a 1/2" router bit. Some of it sanded out okay, the rest might need to be filled/fixed when the painter applies resin to the box prior to painting.

          Finally, I used the 1/2" roundover on the port as well. I'll widen it to at least 3/4" for sure....I'd like to use my big one (either 1 1/4" or 1 1/2"?) but in order to do so I'd need to slowly drop the box on the spinning router bit (if using a table) or modifying a large plunge router to support such a large bit (if doing the probably even more dangerous thing and using a handheld router). The port hole is just to small to support doing it any other way. I've done the former before...but might just stick with the 3/4" bit for this.

          I only did one speaker as I was absolutely covered in dust after just the one. Hoping #2 goes a bit better.

          I've been thinking about hooking up one or both speaker(s) to ensure it/they work, but I'm afraid that once I do that I might not dismantle them for finishing. I'm also thinking about trying to countersink the Dayton terminal plate in the back. Unsure if I want to add more cuts to this though, as this project has had an awful lot of errors that I've needed to cover up already.

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          Last edited by technodanvan; 26 August 2024, 19:12 Monday.
          - Danny

          Comment

          • technodanvan
            Super Senior Member
            • Nov 2009
            • 1483

            #95
            Here's a photo of the dent in the baffle. I'm sure I knew about this when it happened, but I dropped the project so long I forgot about it and rolled right over it with the router. Fortunately, I don't think it did much damage. I'd still like to fix this before going to the painter though and I do not have the original chip. What's the best bet for filling this? I was thinking about just trying epoxy - with or without some sawdust mixed in - and letting it level off, then lightly sanding it. Calling the resident guru, Steve Manning!

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            - Danny

            Comment

            • Steve Manning
              Moderator
              • Dec 2006
              • 2121

              #96
              Originally posted by technodanvan
              Here's a photo of the dent in the baffle. I'm sure I knew about this when it happened, but I dropped the project so long I forgot about it and rolled right over it with the router. Fortunately, I don't think it did much damage. I'd still like to fix this before going to the painter though and I do not have the original chip. What's the best bet for filling this? I was thinking about just trying epoxy - with or without some sawdust mixed in - and letting it level off, then lightly sanding it. Calling the resident guru, Steve Manning!

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              Hey Danny ..... more like "grasshopper" Though if your getting these painted I'd just go with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
              Hold on to your butts - It's about to get Musical!



              WEBSITE: http://www.smjaudio.com/

              Comment

              • technodanvan
                Super Senior Member
                • Nov 2009
                • 1483

                #97
                That makes a lot more sense than trying to make my own!
                - Danny

                Comment

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