Ante,
Excellent drawing, very professional to look at. I'll give you some ideas to help you out when it comes time to build (Whatever you choose to build)
1: You don't need as many holes as you have shown on the plans. Forget the small holes. Offset / stagger the large holes leave at least 5cm between them for strength.
2: If you build a curved speaker make the "Ribs" a solid piece so the seam won't show later. (it makes a difference) (everything makes a difference) I used 1/4" Italian bendy ply. Many layers glued in place and router trimmed later.
3: Don't use solid wood, I did and it twisted as it aged. I had to relief cut the twist. Pain in the A$S. Use Baltic Birch plywood.
I coerced Ante to come over here from the "Other" DIYaudi0 site. He liked the look of my curved Thors. I do too. They are now the L / R for my theater. They sound great where they are now. Ante has stated that he wants to build a Very nice sounding pair of speakers, I tried to talk him out of the Thor design because of the high $$$ and only fair performance by today's standards.
I'll just say it plain as I can, Ante, FIND A DIFFERENT SPEAKER TO BUILD!
Tek, thank you for joining in this thread, I felt you might be able to help guide him simply because of your close location and knowing where to source parts at a reasonable price. I've also watched your builds and they are first class. You Vikings got to stick together.
Jon, as always sound and practical advice. I hope he listens. (Jon is the ONE person you want to take advice from)
Steve, right as usual. Can you recommend a speaker between the Natalie P and the Ardent?
Maybe the Statement II s?
The Statement II s are the upgraded version for those who prefer paper drivers to metal cones. Statement s have metal cones.
I have built this as a Center Channel and will tell you it is Dynamic and clear, voices are natural and crisp. Superb bang for the buck.
Ron
Excellent drawing, very professional to look at. I'll give you some ideas to help you out when it comes time to build (Whatever you choose to build)
1: You don't need as many holes as you have shown on the plans. Forget the small holes. Offset / stagger the large holes leave at least 5cm between them for strength.
2: If you build a curved speaker make the "Ribs" a solid piece so the seam won't show later. (it makes a difference) (everything makes a difference) I used 1/4" Italian bendy ply. Many layers glued in place and router trimmed later.
3: Don't use solid wood, I did and it twisted as it aged. I had to relief cut the twist. Pain in the A$S. Use Baltic Birch plywood.
I coerced Ante to come over here from the "Other" DIYaudi0 site. He liked the look of my curved Thors. I do too. They are now the L / R for my theater. They sound great where they are now. Ante has stated that he wants to build a Very nice sounding pair of speakers, I tried to talk him out of the Thor design because of the high $$$ and only fair performance by today's standards.
I'll just say it plain as I can, Ante, FIND A DIFFERENT SPEAKER TO BUILD!
Tek, thank you for joining in this thread, I felt you might be able to help guide him simply because of your close location and knowing where to source parts at a reasonable price. I've also watched your builds and they are first class. You Vikings got to stick together.
Jon, as always sound and practical advice. I hope he listens. (Jon is the ONE person you want to take advice from)
Steve, right as usual. Can you recommend a speaker between the Natalie P and the Ardent?
Maybe the Statement II s?
The Statement II s are the upgraded version for those who prefer paper drivers to metal cones. Statement s have metal cones.
I have built this as a Center Channel and will tell you it is Dynamic and clear, voices are natural and crisp. Superb bang for the buck.
Ron
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