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Im making a video of the build, is itt possible to post video here?
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My suggestion with your curved cabinet would be to rear port it and place the crossover on the brace in the front below the bottom woofer. I'd place the rear port in the rear lower cavity below where its shown in your drawing. Just an FYI, we've always used 3" ports with inner and outer flares to prevent port noise. I don't know what you have available but the outer Presicion Port flares measure 6 1/4" in diameter with a 5 1/4" hole for the port to fit through. See what you can get locally and adjust from that point on.thank you everybody Im so exsitet this is so mouch fun !!
I byddy of mine owns a shop that makes interior, kitchen and a whole lot of other stuff so hes got more tools than I need
Does it mather witch place I put the vent of theese twoo shown in the picture?
I have no idea where to put the XO... In the bace ore in the inside of the speaker. Any ideas?
HTH
JimComment
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Nice, your work is very impressive.
Giving me some ideas on what I might do with some components I have laying aroundComment
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Thank you Jim
Ive got the port from Meniscus so I hope that would be OK, Im not sure of the size but I will take some Control mesures today.Last edited by Ante; 10 March 2017, 03:21 Friday.Comment
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No worries then. If it's from Meniscus, it should be just fine. I guess the question I have is, how wide is the back of the cabinet? Is it wide enough for the 6 1/2" flare?
JimComment
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Thats the issue thats been bothering me all night to.. And its not wide enough
I might be abel to scueese it in do to the thikknes of the back, and if I take some og the edges of the outher ring on two sides..
What do you tjink of mounting it in the front baffel?Comment
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Honestly, I've never done a front baffle port but have heard some designs that did and they sounded fine. perhaps others with experience in front mounted ports will chime in.
JimComment
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Just a quick follow up to your porting question, a down firing port would also work fine. But, the speaker would need to be elevated 3"-4" off the floor and have lots of open access so the port could breathe. That is the reason for the 9" circle cut in the Statements base with a 6" tunnel passage out the rear of the speaker base plus it's elevated a couple inches with the spikes. I don't know how well that would work with your cabinet design.
JimComment
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The total lenght of the vent from Meniscus is about 10" including boath flares, is this the corect lenght? If so I got a problem...
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I thing I end up doing a rear port. Ive done some changes to the drawing, and I need to make some new parts tomorrow.
I think I'm on the right direction now.. Ive also got the XO in the bottom, does it look OK? Im not sure if it will effect the airflow to the vent now, but everything should fit now.
Hope you will point out if this looks terrible and will make it worse.
Anyway here it goes, a lot of hours drawing, hope it will be good fore something
Ante
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Excellent work Ante! thank you for the wonderful pictures. I'm glad your having fun. Building them is a big part of the fun.
Please don't put the port on the front. I did with mine and I regret it every time I look at them. It draws your eye away from the drivers and the wood work on the sides.
If you have to trim the sides of the flare to make it fit on the back it won't have much (if any) effect. Go ahead and trim the sides to fit. I know you will make it look good. Plus it's on the BACK!
Awesome, Keep the picture coming please!
Ron
You posted while I was typing. Yeah! Looks excellent. A 3/4" or 1" round over for the outside flare will be fine. You won't get any chuffing noises from the port. Great work Ante!Ardent TSComment
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Your drawings look good. Like Ron said, trim the sides of the port to fit the width of the rear of the cabinet. I'd suggest you cut that 10" tube in half so that you have a 5" tube plus the inner and outer flare for each port. It'll be good to go.
One other thought. Be sure you can get the crossover out of the speaker through the woofer cutout. Sometimes you have to get access to it after the speaker is built.
Lookin' good! :T
JimComment
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Thank you fore feedback and awesome help. You are fantastic This would not be possible without your help.
Jim: Witch of the following two length will be the best fore the vent? 5" of 10" ? I will definitely do the one that makes the best result, I have to make a new bracing anyway. If I use the full length 10" I will cone the end of the bracing over the flare and make it a part of the flare. The other alternative is as you said shorten the main tube to 5".
Ive thought of the access to the XO after reading your earlier post My solution is this, I hope it will work fine.
Renorn: I'm so happy you took me in to this family of geniuses thank you for all the help and inspiration you have given me, and still, hopefully are going to give me
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Assuming the interior volume of the cabinet for the woofer compartment is similar to the original cabinet design, Curt speced the 5" tube plus inner and outer flares. Cutting the tube to length is only one of the many "y's" in DIY. :W Meniscus sends enough tube length for different cabinet volumes.
BTW, your drawings are great.
HTH
JimComment
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Ante, It's nice to see that someone else routes and sands the interior baffles of their speakers. SEE, guy's, I'm not the only one who's nuts! :??
Jim made a good point about accessing the XO after the speaker is built. If you make 2 smaller XO boards you can pull them out through the lower speaker hole if you need to.
I've used Velcro on the backs of the XO boards many , many times it has always worked well if I need to remove the XO later.
Your XO will have no effect on the air flow. Port Tube is 3"wide x 4"long (plus flares). Cabinet volume is 100Liters tuned to ~24Hz. These are going to play LOW....
I checked how the air flow is affected by the length of the tube (cabinet tuning) and how a flare will affect the air flow (chuffing) .
Chuffing is the sound of the air coming out the port, if the port is too small it can increase the speed of the air and make noise. Like a Whoof, Whoof.
With a 3" diameter vent your not even close to chuffing. I checked with and without both ends flared, honestly, it didn't make much difference, but it looks a lot nicer flared on the outside.
Here are a couple of graphs that show the tuning and vent response (additional SPL from the vent)
Ron
Ardent TSComment
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Great looking build Ante!
For videos I think it's best to upload it to youtube or simular and link to it from here.-TEK
Many of the great achievements of the world were accomplished by tired and discouraged men who kept on working...
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abit more pictures from the days work, not so many new parts since we had to redo some of them do to the size og the vent, but now we have some options. If I put the vent al the way back to the bracing it will be a about over 10" long (plus the flares), And I also con shorten it down. I might have to try both
Yes Ron, I like to route and sand the interior baffles, if it has any effect I do not know, but it looks nice And in theory the air will travel lighter through the wholes.
My intention with the XO is to be able to take of the base, the mid and tweet XO is fasten at this and I will have access to the woofer XO through the whole shown in the picture. I thinking on having some kind of gasket between the speaker and the base in the whole fore the XO so it seals good.
The interior volume of the cabinet for the woofer compartment is 117,2 liters minus the volume of the mid tunnels and the bracing, so I do think I'm close to 100 liters fore the woofers.
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Can't wait to see the finished speaker!!!Comment
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Hi Ante,
A 10" tube plus the ports is way too long for the net volume. We use 5" on the Anthology's which net about 80 liters so 4" would be a good choice for 100+ liters. Those are both plus flares.
JimComment
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Jim: I hope I don't ask to much now. but I might not done a good job explaining my self.
This is what I got from Meniscus:
Inner flare, length about 3, 3" vent 4" long, Outer flare about 3" long. Put together this has an total length of about 10"
When these 3 parts put together they reach close up to the center bracing in my design, there might bee a 18mm (1" equal 24,5mm) gap from the tip of the inner flare to the bracing wall. The bracing has a hole lined up with the inner flare shown in one of my last pictures.
If I understand you right the middle 3" pipe should be 4" long as it is delivered from Meniscus with no flares mounted. If I use both flares, inner and outer, the total length, all 3 parts, will be 10". If I use only the flares, without the 3" pipe, they have a length of about 6"
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Ron
Im not so affraid of Chuffing from the vent, I recon that is made shure not is a problem with the recomanded vent. Im more consernd of Chuffing from the hole in the brasing.. Hope the holes are not to small.. I cant wait to see how low it will go
Ive borrowed a pair of XTZ speakers now and I hope the statement will play a bit bether, althoug the XTZ tovers play ferly nice.Comment
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TEK
I wil make a video that shows the prosess when the speakers are done, Ill link it here when I get there
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Ante,
Yes, the middle pipe should be 4" and 10" overall with both flares installed just as you show in the picture. Glue them together of course.
HTH
JimComment
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Thank you Jim
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Ante,
You don't have to worry about a gasket on the bottom. You have a large hole (vent) already. No need to make extra work for yourself.Ardent TSComment
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Ron: Good point 
ops:ops: I did not think of that Thank you, you just saved me a lot of hedake
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Wow
Great build Ante, I can't wait to see the end result.:T I'll be building Finalists and Statement II's in the coming months. Just waiting for my container to arrive in NZ from Colorado. I built the original statements a few years ago for a friend and they were awesome, but my build was not nearly as fancy as yours.;x( :BComment
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Thank you Im away fore a copel of days now but I wil ceep the pictures coming as the bilt goes on. I hope it turns out Great
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Do any of you use som kind og internal coating in Your speakers to reduse resonans? And if you do, what do you use?
Ive just ordered this: Acry-Tech Acoust-X 1 hope that Works
Last edited by Ante; 20 March 2017, 06:29 Monday.Comment
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I did a quick search for this product and based on what I read, this will not be a replacement for foam, fiberglass or what ever acoustically tested absorbing material you choose to use. I use 2 1/2" wedge foam that I find works well. Others will disagree. However, do use one inch flat foam in the mid tunnels and cut them as specified in installation/build documentation.
My $0.02 worth....
JimComment
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Hi Jim
I was going to use this in addition to foam, Im using the foam deliverd in the kit in the mid tunels and the larger foam in the cabinet.
Mostly I just want it too look good inside as well as outside, even nobody sees it But if it will have an effect on the resonans Im not so sure of..
Me and the kids (8 and 9 years old) put to gether the one XO fore the mid today. The kids first soldering !! Im just as proud as thye were
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Wow! Very nice crossovers! Mine are always ugly but they are functional.
I read one user feedback on the coating that said it was chalky when dry and nothing would stick to it. If that's the case, its a problem because you will need to use contact cement to attach the foam to the inside of the cabinet. I'd suggest you test it on a scrap 1st before painting the inside of the cabinet.
JimComment
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Will do thanks again Jim
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Wow, great job kids! Very nice idea to get them interested in something other than video games. (I play video games too)
Looking good Ante. Thanks for the pictures.
RonArdent TSComment
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Depends...with one week of intensive training I could make you an expert on two way book shelfs ...In one month of Intensive self training on David Ralphs windows passive crossover designer I think I can design two ways better than what I've seen on the internet. As a matter of fact I now look at other people's design and have WTF moments.Ante,
Your CAD drawings are very good. But arbitrarily (just cause you want to) moving the tweeter and the two mid-ranges will effect how the speaker performs and the crossover design too.
I know you want to design YOUR own speakers, but it is extremely complicated and takes years of practice and design theory. Just build DeeWans remix speaker.
Or you could also choose another complete design.
ALL speakers sound better moved AWAY from the wall unless they were designed to sit close to the wall on purpose.
I don't want to discourage you, I like your enthusiasm. I DO want you to be happy with your speakers after you put that much time and $$$ into them. That's why I didn't want you to build the Thor.
Send Curt an email and ask him for help. He may or may not answer you, nice guy but he's busy I'm sure. The email link on on the right hand side of his web page.
Ron
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E.T. may be of a different mind.
RonArdent TSComment
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An update on my statement II built:
I think I wil stick to the XO that is designed fore this speaker
We have started the puzzel
Ive used the acoustic paint on the internal bracing, no problem gluing on this, when dry it seems like some kind og rubber compound. But I have no idea if it wil have any effect on the resonans.
How many hours do you recomand playing before it is top nouch?
Im really looking forward to when this is comleated at the same time I will miss this building prosess..
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I don't seem to be able to post more then 5 pictures at the time.. so I'll split them up in several posts:
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and one more
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Those look amazing! Well done!Comment
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yes!
progressing nicely!Comment
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Thank You
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Wowza ....... Moving along very nicely.Comment
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