Actually, it was no fun - back-to-back meetings - almost no time to see the show. Very frustrating. Happy to be back home. Have you slapped all the drivers in yet?
Kleos - Dipole Line Array
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That is a bummer Hank, too bad. But, on the positive note you do have a job.
No, I haven't slapped in the drivers! Will never be "slapping" in the drivers.
Making progress on the house cleaning. My cousin has to help with some of it and he may be coming over next Saturday. This all could take some time.
I'm also starting work on a new Subwoofer build ... something to keep up with the dipoles.
I've got two sub boxes that will make a nice home for 4 of these:
TC Sounds Epic 12John unk:
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Yeah, when I feel overloaded since "they" gave me another business unit (Architectural Markets) to take care of, I remind myself that it's a good job and has been for almost 33 years here.
Nice subwoofer plan. I've never been a fan of aluminum wire, but can't argue with the reputation of those TC drivers.- Bottom
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Okay, for anyone still interested Hank (?) this speaker project is back on track. I decided to wait for warmer weather to finished the cabinet before putting in the drivers.
I attached the back base board, had to route out some areas so it would fit.
Veneer.
Got to attach one more piece of veneer on the back, then just have to put on linseed oil and poly to finish the speaker.John unk:
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Alright! Good to see you're back at it, looks like it's coming along nicely too!
Open backed designs have always intrigued and confused me... Speakers are supposed to be boxes, not boards! :P"Measure twice, then measure again before even thinking about plugging the saw in."- Bottom
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Originally posted by EzclAlright! Good to see you're back at it, looks like it's coming along nicely too!
Open backed designs have always intrigued and confused me... Speakers are supposed to be boxes, not boards! :PJohn unk:
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You go, John!
Gett'n those BadBoys done is like all our projects, one step at a time. :T- Bottom
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Thanks Bill!
Yep, nearing the end. Whole lot of things seemed to get in way of finishing this, but that's life. Life gets in the way.John unk:
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Thanks Hank!
Yep, I hope to get done shortly. I plan on using my iPhone and some measurement apps like the Faber Acoustical's Signal Scope which I have. May need some more of their software too though. I've also got an iphone compatible external mic that is pretty decent, compared to the iphone mic.
Don't know how informative my measurements will be to others here, but it's possible I might turn up something interesting. Hope to get some input and advice from others too in regard to measurements.John unk:
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John unk:
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I've been making progress Hank! What!? ... you want updates and pictures? Getting greedy aren't we? HaHa ... Just kidding. I've been busy with email conversations with a friend and stuff. I have some pictures, and I'll post them soon.John unk:
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Here is what I've done to date with one speaker. Still have to catch up on the other one when I'm finished with this one. It has one coat of polyurethane, and I need to sand and put additional coats on. Anyone have any advice on a putting polyurethane finish on? It is a bit rough in places and the instructions say to use a 220 grit sandpaper to lightly sand and smooth out before putting additional coats on. So, that what I'm going to do, except I think I'll use a 320 grit cause the paper I use is pretty good a taking stuff off.
Front -
I was shooting into the light, so this picture didn't turn out too well, as it is too dark in front.
Back -
John unk:
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Those are looking great :T
Remember poly doesn't stick well on itself, it can delaminate if not sanded between coats. I like to get the first few coats on everywhere and sand lightly with a 400 grit wet sand between coats. After I have a buildup enough not to sand through I do each addition coat on the flat so I can flood thick. Ploy is not very self leveling so don't worry a bought the hills and valleys and dust till you get the thickness you want, you just want the sheen off. I then wet sand till flat and apply a thinned coat to leave no brush strokes. If you want a very flat surface you can then wet sand 400, 800, 1200, and rub it out with rubbing compound. After it fully cures you can then wax. I like the satin with this process because the waxed rubbed surface is flat to look at straight on and glossy when you look across the surface.
If your using the oil base you usually need more coats, I do 10 to get it flat. The last set of cabs I made I used water based sanding sealer and the water based Varathane Nano with the Aluminum oxide for floors. It was only 2 coats sealer and 5 Nano. The oil base has more depth to the appearance and because it is linseed oil based it adds an amber tint where as the water base can appear milky till fully cured.
Here is the Nano,
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Thanks very much Dar!
After I have a buildup enough not to sand through I do each addition coat on the flat so I can flood thick.
How do you thin the polyurethane? Do you use paint thinner? I read you can use linseed oil to thin paint so it goes on smoother. I used linseed oil on the wood before using poly. I guess if poly already has some linseed oil in it adding some more for the final coat wouldn't hurt, to thin it?
JohnJohn unk:
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Originally posted by JohnloudbThanks very much Dar!
I don't understand this, could you explain? "on the flat" and "flood thick" don't ring a bell.
How do you thin the polyurethane? Do you use paint thinner? I read you can use linseed oil to thin paint so it goes on smoother. I used linseed oil on the wood before using poly. I guess if poly already has some linseed oil in it adding some more for the final coat wouldn't hurt, to thin it?
John
You can thin with paint thinner or Varsol (mineral spirits) if your using oil base. This is just done on the last coat if your not rubbing it out. The last coat I thin and do vertically and keep checking for runs. You will have little to no brush strokes with no dust on the surface after it drys. The thinning is to reduce brush strokes and dust pick up and your final coat will dry faster.- Bottom
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Sorry 1 more tip, I buy a good quality brushes and after cleaning them I keep them soaking in mineral spirits between coats. I have some brushes that are 10 years old that I pull out and pre-soak for a week before finishing. The older the brush the softer the tips and you will not have brush hairs coming out on your surface.
An old German painting shops teacher told us if you can't spray your finish make metal boxes and store your brushes in solvent and the fibers in the brush tips will get vary soft. With practice and old soft brushes you can match any sprayed finish it just takes more time.- Bottom
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Thanks Dar! I appreciate the input, very helpful!John unk:
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Hi Hank, nope not yet but I know what I'm going to do for the most part. A simple JFET crossover. I'm going to start out two on this and add tweeters later. Shouldn't take too long.John unk:
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Got a HVLP paint sprayer ordered so I can put on the polyurethane better. Should be here next week some time.John unk:
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wooWhooo!
A new toy!- Bottom
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Originally posted by JohnloudbGot a HVLP paint sprayer ordered so I can put on the polyurethane better. Should be here next week some time.
shop, going 10yrs. strong now. Also use it once in awhile to spray a pair
of speakers.Believe they are made in Canada, go figure.- Bottom
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Bill, Yep, looking forward to playing with my new toy! Just of question of whether to paint the kitchen or speaker first? Hmmm ...
Squidspeak,
I got a Wagner Control Spray Plus HVLP sprayer. Hank recommended it, and it fits my budget, and needs no extra compressor.John unk:
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I hear ya Hank! I've got the spray gun, and going to see if I can get something accomplished this weekend.John unk:
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I had a look at the spray gun and put the parts together. I hurt my back lifting a couple bags of bark bits in the car three days ago. It's feeling a lot better now but can't lift much. I may be up to some work on the speaker next weekend, but not sure.John unk:
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Hank, the bits had been out in the rain and had soaked up the water. They were heavy and I am weak.
Paint sprayers take a lot of work to clean. Sounds like I have to take it all apart and clean everything according to the instructions after each coat.
I'll tell you right now I absolutely hate painting and I'm never, ever doing this again. After this I'm through with painting speakers!!!! :MJohn unk:
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Just kidding, John. Hang in there. I feel the same way about wallpaper - did a 2' x 4' section of a wall years ago and THAT, my friend, will be the one and only time this boy will wallpaper.
BTW, real men don't paint speakers - they veneer them with exotic wood. :B :banana:
We want to see progress photos.Last edited by Hank; 30 July 2012, 13:07 Monday.- Bottom
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Well, no photos tonight ... but did mask areas of the speaker to get ready for spraying the poly on.John unk:
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Hank, the sprayer worked great!!! I put on a thin coat last night and I almost didn't mind having to clean it after I was done. Thanks for the recommend!John unk:
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John unk:
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Purty, John! :T Glad to see someone making some progress this summer! I haven't been able to do squat on speakers since Xmas, and it's starting to REALLY bug me! (and that's the diplomatic version I might share with my boss- safety wired to the PO'd position is more how I'd describe it.)
I bet you're really anticipating getting this finished and put together in your room....the AudioWorx
Natalie P
M8ta
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Modula MT XE
Modula Xtreme
Isiris
Wavecor Ardent
SMJ
Minerva Monitor
Calliope
Ardent D
In Development...
Isiris Mk II updates- in final test stage!
Obi-Wan
Saint-Saëns Symphonique/AKA SMJ-40
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Originally posted by JonMarshPurty, John! :T Glad to see someone making some progress this summer! I haven't been able to do squat on speakers since Xmas, and it's starting to REALLY bug me! (and that's the diplomatic version I might share with my boss- safety wired to the PO'd position is more how I'd describe it.)
I bet you're really anticipating getting this finished and put together in your room....
Well hang in there. Hope your work situation improves. Like to see some of those great speaker designs you've stared get finished.John unk:
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Jon is linked at the hip to his work. He complains, but deep down, I believe he is really commited and loves his work. More people should be so blessed, BUT he really needs to reclaim his weekends. :W
Gonnna get those last coats applied this weekend, John? BTW, do you have measurment mic and software?- Bottom
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Originally posted by HankBUT he really needs to reclaim his weekends. :W
That's progress of a sort, at least getting them to look at the problem more realistically.
The two software guys from Italy have been great, and though we've had a long busy week, we've got a working system to take to the customer, though it does look a bit like a kluge...
Maybe the weekend after next will be my own for a change...the AudioWorx
Natalie P
M8ta
Modula Neo DCC
Modula MT XE
Modula Xtreme
Isiris
Wavecor Ardent
SMJ
Minerva Monitor
Calliope
Ardent D
In Development...
Isiris Mk II updates- in final test stage!
Obi-Wan
Saint-Saëns Symphonique/AKA SMJ-40
Modula PWB
Calliope CC Supreme
Natalie P Ultra
Natalie P Supreme
Janus BP1 Sub
Resistance is not futile, it is Volts divided by Amperes...
Just ask Mr. Ohm....- Bottom
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Originally posted by HankGonnna get those last coats applied this weekend, John? BTW, do you have measurment mic and software?
I have some measurement software on my iPhone and a good mic for it. I'm going to be using that since I don't have a portable computer.John unk:
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Just to update. I have applied veneer to base of the second loudspeaker and just need to do some more sanding, put linseed oil on it, and then poly to get it caught up to the other one.John unk:
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John unk:
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Looking good, John! :T
I remember my first foray using linseed oil.
I ended up having to re-sand the cabinets after I put about 5 coats on. :E
Oh well, live & learn. Experience is still the best teacher. :lol:- Bottom
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Originally posted by wkkannaI remember my first foray using linseed oil.
I ended up having to re-sand the cabinets after I put about 5 coats on.John unk:
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