Tritrix - The entry to DIY speakers?

[RegulatorCT]

Hello all !

I'm excited to finally post on this forum after spending countless hours reading over some awesome mission accomplished threads!

I am brand new to speaker building but I have heard a set of towers my friend built that sounded as good if not better then anything I had heard in stores. I have been wanting to get into speaker building ever since.

I have been reading up on the TriTrix for some time and I'm taking the plunge into a 'easier' beginner design. (I'll purchase the kit through your PE banner link of course



I do have some (likely silly newbie) questions and I hope that some of you good folks will clear them up!

1. First I am curious about sealed vs ported. I understand that ported designs need more room to breath so they wouldn't be able to stand flush along a wall?

2. Is the advantage of ported enclosures that they enjoy better low end reproduction? What is the advantage of sealed? They can position anywhere?

3. Transmission Line Tritrix? What is it that makes a design transmission line? My understanding is that TL is a concept of a designs ability to direct the movement of energy. Is the Tritrix TL design different to the sealed and ported versions? Or do the sealed and ported designs both encompass the TL concepts?




I hope not to get flamed to badly for being a novice... all help is appreciated!

I am stoked to get some advice and tips and then dive into my first project!

Tyler

[krips]

Welcome to htg! I'll give it a shot and then someone more knowledgeable can chime in. Ported designs have better low end response. Sealed designs should have better group delay and can have greater enclosure deviation, and are also smaller than ported enclosures. I built the tritrix speakers a couple years ago and they're still kickin' around, sounding good.

[john trials]

Sealed, ported and TL are all different enclosure configurations. Check out: http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/Tritrix_pg_3.html for the mechanical drawings of each. Curt does a good job of describing the enclosure designs starting here: http://speakerdesignworks.com/Tritrix_pg_1.html

I finished my Tritrix TLs about half a year ago. Great speakers. They were my entry into DIY speakers, too. I'm very pleased with mine. The TLs may be a little more complicated (to do the woodworking and finishing) than the sealed or ported, but they are not hard. I made mine with a hand-held circular saw, a bandsaw, and a borrowed router. I had to buy a few clamps and router bits. So they can be made with very few tools.

[cmayer]

I've also built Tritrix TLs as my first (and so far only) project.

Coming from basically no woodworking experience, even a relatively easy build is a learning experience. Or was for me anyway. If you lack tools/etc, or just aren't as interested in the woodworking aspect, then the knockdown kit might be a good way to go.

Personally, I built from scratch as practice, as I'm eyeing higher-cost designs to build over time to upgrade my home theater setup. I'm glad I did, since it was good experience, and the resulting speakers are an awesome value for the money. I'm sure I'll be using them somewhere in the house for years.


Regarding sealed designs...don't they generally have lower distortion or risk of damage at higher volume? IE, if you're planning to use a sub anyway, then you may as well go with sealed?

[fbov]

In bold...
Frank

...I do have some (likely silly newbie) questions and I hope that some of you good folks will clear them up!

1. First I am curious about sealed vs ported. I understand that ported designs need more room to breath so they wouldn't be able to stand flush along a wall?

Placement relative to walls is a completely different topic, related to crossover design and BSC (baffle step compensation). Most speakers are designed for driver placement 2-3 feet away from walls, and rear/bottom port locations gain a little from the floor and back wall. No reason you can't front port, though.

2. Is the advantage of ported enclosures that they enjoy better low end reproduction? What is the advantage of sealed? They can position anywhere?

The port allows the back wave from the driver to excite a resonance in the box at roughly the frequency when the driver's output is normally rolling off. This resonance reinforces the reduced driver output, extending bass response to lower frequencies. The TriTrix TL does the same thing in a different way.

Nothing is free, however, as a sealed box can be smaller, but will not have as much bass extension. That's not a bad thing as a handoff to a sub allows the speaker to take more power and potentially sound better.

3. Transmission Line Tritrix? What is it that makes a design transmission line? My understanding is that TL is a concept of a designs ability to direct the movement of energy. Is the Tritrix TL design different to the sealed and ported versions? Or do the sealed and ported designs both encompass the TL concepts?

A TL is another way to tune a box to resonate in support of a driver's low end roll-off. It is a 3rd distinct option, sealed, ported, TL, choose 1. the TriTrix KD kit is TL, start from scratch with the no-box kit if you want ported or sealed.

The "designs" per se don't care; low end/bass treatment choices above have no effect higher up where the crossover electronics are doing their things with the drivers. Choose the TL kit if you want the easiest build and a full-range, free-standing stereo pair. If you can saw panels square and use a router with circle jig, you have most of what you'd need to build from scratch. I'd suggest that for your second build.
...

[RegulatorCT]

Awesome guys! Thanks for your input.
And thank you Frank for your detailed answers. It really helps to clear things up for me!

These Tritrix will likely be spending loads of time with a sub however, eventually I do see them standing alone as music/computer speakers so I am definitely leaning towards a transmission line as opposed to sealed. I hear that has a high awesome factor.

One last question to anyone who has built the Tritrix, I do see a center speaker being built in the future. Does the Tritrix TL design match nicely with any center Tritrix design?

i.e. is building the TL design and matching it with a ported or sealed center a decent idea? Or should one build ported/sealed Tritrix towers that are in tune with the ported/sealed center? I ask because I haven't seen a Tritrix TL center designs.

Thanks

[---k---]

If you're setting your receiver to small in order to use a subwoofer, there is little to gain by building TL or ported versus sealed (acoustically speaking, ignoring the the TL knockdown kits constructability practicality.)

With a center channel, you're definitely going to have a subwoofer in the mix. And, your wife will want a small center. No reason for a TL center. - imho.

A sealed center will match the TL well enough. It isn't audiophile-theory perfect, but imho good enough. It is due to the group delay, which can all be debated.

[RegulatorCT]

Thanks Ryan, I think I'll build the TL first so that I get feel for the sound and then build a sealed version after.



One last question, is there much audible difference between Curts 36inch design vs the 48inch "Tall boy" designs? Has anyone experienced both?



I just received my parts from parts express today and I go for some tasty MDF tomorrow!

[john trials]

Thanks Ryan, I think I'll build the TL first so that I get feel for the sound and then build a sealed version after.

One last question, is there much audible difference between Curts 36inch design vs the 48inch "Tall boy" designs? Has anyone experienced both?

I just received my parts from parts express today and I go for some tasty MDF tomorrow!

There was a post a few months ago at the PE forum asking if anyone had built any of the Tritrix Tall Boy TL enclosures. So far, there is no evidence that anyone has built a set. http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...t=tall+tritrix

I doubt one turn in the TL will make an audible difference. Build the configuration that fits your wants/needs. Current discussion over at PE: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=216006

My build thread: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=211079 shows a 48" tall Tritrix TL, but I kept the acoustic path the same as a regular Tritrix TL (one turn). I added the extra 12" at the bottom to 1) raise the tweeter to a good listening height, 2) have a convenient xover mounting area, and 3) so I could add sand to make the speaker less top-heavy.

[RegulatorCT]

Groovy.

Well I have started cutting into my MDF to build some 36" TL's. Holy moly building circular router jigs is tough business! I'll post pics soon.

[numberoneoppa]

Buy a Jasper Jig. You'll be thankful you did every time you use it!

[evilskillit]

I made my first few. Its not difficult per say, just annoying and tedious. But at the time I didn't have $50-$60 for a jasper jig or router buddy. My advice is if you can spare the $60 just get a jig, but if its a matter of pride or $60 might make the difference between eating or not eating (I've been there). Then build one and have some spare lumber around for making test cuts on. You'll have to make several.

Groovy.

Well I have started cutting into my MDF to build some 36" TL's. Holy moly building circular router jigs is tough business! I'll post pics soon.

[RegulatorCT]

Heh heh, aw geeez How the heck do you post pictures?



Edit* Never mind, I got it.

Newb.

[RegulatorCT]

Testing out picture posting...



Ah yup, that's got it...

[Nathan P]

post pictures by doing [i m g] insert pic link here [/ i m g] without the spaces of course.

I designed my first set of speakers (with help from a very cool member here, KJP you still hanging out here? I know you were getting into other hobbies and such) and had a great time doing it. Are they as good as the TriTrix or other "entry level" designs? Who knows, but I had a great time playing around with the design until I got a response I liked.

I made my design ported, using the DA175's and the silkie tweeter modified by a DIY guide on PE. I got the drivers for free so I wanted to use them and there wasn't a design for them already. I went ported with a pretty low alignment, I was using them as computer speakers in my dorm for a year and wanted them to play well fullrange at low volumes, and they did that marvelously. I also knew that I would be adding a sub when I moved out of the dorms, so I didn't mind having limited output full range. Once you cross to a sub the differences between ported/sealed become less distinct as the port isn't effecting the frequencies the driver is playing. Group delay and all that I'm not sure about at the higher frequencies. Someone else can tackle that one.

I've been more than happy with my design so far and can't wait to build something using better drivers

Nathan

[RegulatorCT]

Alright, well I got the Tritrix kit a couple weeks ago and I have been progressing along when time permits.

I had a big issue with building a router jig. I'm sure most people would have knocked out a quick jig in an hour but it took me a couple days to get it perfect. Jasper Jig is definitely on the to have list for next time!





It was ugly for sure. And incredibly awkward.



But it worked nicely in the end.





I just got into the gluing yesterday.

[RegulatorCT]

I am just starting to work on the crossover placement. I have some questions about placement.

After spending so much effort to get this box built tight it seems like a waste to throw an object like the crossover directly in the path of sound waves... so I was thinking of mounting the crossover components into the spaces under the bottom deflectors.





My question is this: Will spacing the hi pass filter components so far away from the low pass components cause any signal degradation? Or is having the two inductors apart a positive attribute?

[---k---]

My question is this: Will spacing the hi pass filter components so far away from the low pass components cause any signal degradation? Or is having the two inductors apart a positive attribute?

It is a plus.

[RegulatorCT]

Tight, Thanks guys.

[---k---]

But, man, I don't like putting the crossovers in a spot you can't get to them in the future... You should move them.

[Ezcl]

Good to see you're so excited about your baffles being done!
Nice job so far, I'm looking forward to seeing your final result.

[numberoneoppa]

I have clamp envy.

[RegulatorCT]

Tritrix are Awesome.

[RegulatorCT]

I have been working on these guys on weekends as I'm off in the bush tree planting... which takes up most of my energy. However, I finally got these towers singing and they sound great! Definitely met my expectations and definitely make me want to build something bigger and even more bad ass!

Ryan, I went against your advice and put the crossovers in the deflector space as my confidence in nothing going wrong was strong. Heh heh, but while working on tweaking these guys I realize how locking the crossovers away in a tomb is a mistake. Live and learn yo.

Shabam, Pictures...
Working on crossover layouts




Definitely thought these were the place for the x-over to be... looked good I thought.







I used a C-clamp to mash my hurricane bolts into the baffle. I didn't want to use a hammer as my faith in the strength of the front baffle is weak. ...also I didn't think to put the bolts in before gluing the baffles in place. I think that was a minor mistake.



But finally I got 'em set up and rocking! And holy moly I am pretty happy with them.


...don't mind the black spray paint on the right tower, it'll disappear under a (hopefully) sick finish.





I am just adjusting the stuffing today and then gluing them sealed. Then its onto bondo and sanding and the painting. I have a friend who is well versed in the arts of painting stuff real, real good. Roggs I hope to pick up a few tips/tricks and then get a good metallic orange finish on these this weekend...

[Face]

What kind of solder is that?

And, strawberry quick?

[john trials]

Wow. That's a gutsy move entombing the crossovers. At least they are simple. There is not much that can go wrong.

[RegulatorCT]

Not sure what kinda solder I am using... It's radio shack brand solder I believe. And nothing spells quality like RadioShack.

[john trials]

And nothing spells quality like RadioShack.

That's a good one!!!! That would make a great slogan on a T-shirt :B I used Radio Shack solder for all of my speakers, too, but I'm running out...OH NO!!!!!!!!!

[Curt C]

I have been working on these guys on weekends as I'm off in the bush tree planting... which takes up most of my energy. However, I finally got these towers singing and they sound great! Definitely met my expectations and definitely make me want to build something bigger and even more bad ass!

I'm glad to hear you are happy with them!

Nice to see the face behind the thread too ...

C

[Finleyville]

Good job and nice write up! Your first pair of DIY speakers will always hold a special area in your heart even after you've built your n-teenth pair with crossovers totaling in cost more than your whole price of those first ones.

It is, indeed, nice to see a rare face behind a build. I cannot speak for anyone else, but I am doing this forum a service by keeping pics of me off the boards. That way this site can continue to be minor friendly!

[RegulatorCT]

Well I have been satisfied with my listening experiences and have torn out the drivers to do the finishing touch's to my towers. Heaps of sanding, Holy!

I see how being awesome at wood working and making cuts flush saves heaps of time...

I soon hope to use my Hvlp spray gun to paint these bad boys. My newbie status in the paint world may make things a bit goofy though. Here are some progression pics for now.

[dsl1]

I soon hope to use my Hvlp spray gun to paint these bad boys. My newbie status in the paint world may make things a bit goofy though.

Let me know how that works out. I have a kinda crappy HVLP spray gun I got to paint my projector screen with but need to paint the bases of my Statement's.