Separates Nubie Seeking Help~

[Spookyslow]

I've been diligently reading the Rotel Forum, and you guys truly know your stuff. I'm gosh darn (insert proper expletives) impressed.

Here's my deal, I'm about to go down the road to separates. After reading all that was written here and elsewhere, I'm convinced it's what I'm looking for--and Rotel is it. But I have a couple of questions....so I'm appealing to all of you Rotelians for help.

First off,
1. What will make the most impact on my system right now, a pre/amp or amp?

I've got a Sony ES reciever with 100W a channel running B&W 604's and it really seems like the 604's have got much more to give (They're rated at 200W). Surprise, Surprise.

2. Can I put a 1095 in place even if my rear and centers are only rated at 150W respectively? Or should I purchase multiple amps to run the fronts, rear, and center?

And finally, I've read some of you comment on the sound quality difference between the 1068 and 1098. Aren't these two peices basically built with the same 'guts'? If so, can they really sound that different? Can anyone out there offer some incite?

Thanks for the read and I look forward to your replies.

[soundhound]

To answer question 1, preamp/processor. To question 2, if you can set in the same "dwelling" with your'e system sending 150 watts to your'e rears or surrounds you are either in a castle or deaf. That kind of power sent to the "mains" (front right and front left) would be deafening unless you have completely ineficient speakers where there crossovers consume alot of the power. Can't comment on the 1068/1098 question as I use the RSX-1055/RC-1070.

[Andrew Pratt]

My suggestion would be to buy the amp first and use your Sony as the pre amp for now. If you're considering going with a 6.1 or 7.1 system in the future I'd start with the 1075 amp for now. You can then add a 1080 later on to get you more power up front where its really needed. From there add the pre pro.

[Drew_W]

The first thing you should do is concern yourself less with power RATINGS, and listen to the QUALITY of the sound being produced. Find a dealer who will let you take the demo home overnight and CONVINCE YOURSELF that it's a worthwhile investment. Less than 24 hours after my take home audition, I was a happy Rotel 1075 owner.

[DrJRapp]

I'd like to address your 1068/1098 question as I was in the same delemma several months ago. I a/b'd the two units and the difference was difficult to explain, but could be heard. I can't honestly say that one sounded much better than the other, they just were slightly different in the environment of the dealership with the source material we had to listen to, on speakers that I am not familiar with. The 1098 just seemed to have a tad more "air".

While I believe I could have been happy with either, what it ultimatly came down to was not wanting to be sitting here today and wondering if I had made the right choice by "cheaping out" with the 1068. I have what is a rather large investment in my HT system and since I was able to get a better deal on the 1098 (percentage wise) the additional cost was not as large a factor as it may have seemed. I went with with the 1098 and haven't looked back. I am pleased with my purchase even though I never use the 1098s most distinguishing feature...the TFT screen.

[Andrew Pratt]

As Drew mentions power ratings are meaningless for the most part. You are far more likely to do damage to a speaker by pushing an underpowered amp then using a monster that's just idleing along so don't worry about using too big an amplifer.

[Spookyslow]

I appreciate all the good info you guys have posted. What I'm reading tells me a couple things...

1. Buy the Amp first and use my Sony as the Pre.
2. Don't worry about ruining my rears with too much power. Go with the 1095 (I've heard it with the 1098 and it sounded great in the demo room).
3. Audition both the 1068 and 1098 on my system and decide which one sounds best.

Obviously, my first concern is with sound quality (or I wouldnt' be going to separates). Is there anything else I should be considering as I'm about to move to separates?

[DrJRapp]

Yes there is:

Don't overlook the importance of using good quality interconnects between the pre-pro and amps, even if you intend to use your current receiver for awhile. Getting the signal from the pre-pro to the amps intact and uneffected by extraneous interference is crucial. Many a separates convert (myself included) have been initially disappointed with the results of their upgrade due to the fact that they tried to use the crummy interconnects that come with the equipment. There are many quality interconnects available today including some really superior ones from one of this forum's sponsors...CAT Cables

[Spookyslow]

Thanks for the advice, I agree wholeheartedly. There's no sense in spending good money on separates and chince on the cables. That being said, where can I find CAT cables?

[Spookyslow]

Nevermind. I found the link at the bottom of the page.

[Andrew Pratt]

Spookyslow I'm not sure the 1095 would be your best choice right of the hop. Its a fantastic amp and I'd love to own one but I just don't need that much power for my surrounds. Depending on what speakers you want to run the 1075 might be a wiser choice...esp given you can get 1080 & 1075 for about the same price.

[Spookyslow]

Andrew, thanks. That sounds like pretty logical thinking...use the 1075 to run all 5 speakers. Then use the 1080 as a 2 channel to run the fronts only?

BTW, I'm running B&W 602's in the back and a B&W LCR60 as the center.

[Andrew Pratt]

Yes use the 1075 to power the centre and surrounds leaving the 1080 for the front. For the vast majority of people the 1075 has ample power for the surrounds and this way for the same dollar value you get an extra two channels vs the 1095 amp. If you look around the 1080/1075 combo is likely the most common configuration of our membership and its what I'll be running later this week when my 1080 comes in