Tim's Anthologys Build

[Heli-Tim]

Finished the first protection circuit today! Pretty exciting stuff!

[Mikerodrig27]

Best of luck with your projects. There are too many cool things to build. I have the parts for a pair of Elsinore speakers waiting for me to have more time. I will keep an eye out for your progress.

[Heli-Tim]

Thank's for the recommendations, I'll definitely keep them in mind when the time comes. I have a few other pairs of speakers I plan to build amps /pre-amps for. I've selected the Anthologys specifically to match with my Badger system, and hopefully if everything works out, I have a friend who will have a pre-amp designed which will match as well.

< 50W would probably work well with my Leigh LC-10s.

Regarding the UMS Chasis, I am having my front plate CNC milled for a touch/ OLED display, and a couple cosmetic changes for aesthetics. I hear you on the look(everyone's looks similar), but at least it's really nice!

[Mikerodrig27]

I think Sven likes the idea of this particular clutter

I highly recommend the BA2018. I am putting mine under the knife again to add a SALAS I-select input selector and a Khozmo Stepped attenuator. I want to get the most out of it. It also sets the chassis up for any line stage in case I desire to try something else. The BA2018 was designed to be a linestage comprised of inexpensive but high-quality components. Wayne Colburn, Nelson Pass's business partner who has been enlisted for many years to design Pass Lab's preamps, designed the BA2018. Lately, a few of the forum members have been experimwith enting substituting more boutique transistors. I have an extra board so I may try their ideas as I likely have a few of the specified componants as well.

The F6 is probably the more appropriate for the Anthology speakers as it is a push pull class A amp. At least from the ones that I have tried. A little more oomph. I built the Regular Aleph (mini ~18 watts) which a DIYforum member made a very adaptable UMS circuit board for. Some prefer the Aleph J, some prefer the Aleph. Everybody likes an Aleph-something... Damn, I am talking myself into building another one. Maybe 30-60 watts this time. Sigh

I have been thinking of getting a neat-looking chassis from China and drilling the UMS pattern into the heatsinks. The DIYaudio chassis is pretty neat but I would like something a little more exciting to look at.

[Heli-Tim]

I'm pretty flexible. If you feel it will be better in another section, I won't object. I didn't want to clutter up too much of the forum, that was my thought. It's all good with me .

[svenarajala]

Since this is my thread, I'll use it to post progress on both my Amp build, and my speaker build.

Today's update is Amplifier related.

I've been casually working on the protection circuit boards for my 2 Channel amplifier. They came from Virtual Zero Distortion Audio. VZD make custom protection designs. I'm very impressed with their quality, but most importantly, level of support. I couldn't say enough good thing's about this company!

It was my first attempt at SMD soldering, but it went really smooth.

I used a repurposed toaster oven, and followed advice from more experienced builders. It came out really good!

Would you be open to a new thread for the amp? We just added a digital amp channel now for forum members to use, and this would be great to share in that channel.

[Heli-Tim]

It is all UMS. The only change required from the Deluxe 5U "Big A**(amp) Chasis" is to either drill one extra hole per channel (for a temp sensor to level out power sharing in the output), or alternatively you can use a bus bar like in the original build guide(standard UMS holes will work)

I really would like to build one of Mr. Pass's amps or passive pre-amps some day as well, I quite enjoy his design philosophy, and community engagement.

I will definitely submit a review of my experiences with the Badger, and my Anthologys once complete.

[Mikerodrig27]

I thought of building a Honey Badger as I have some high voltage caps that would be nice to use on that amp. It looks like a fun little amp. I believe it is all UMS so you can get the large chassis at DIY audio and have the holes set up to swap whatever you want down the road.

I have built the F6 and a Aleph Mini as well as a veriety of preamps. I have most of the parts to build a XA100.5'ish, a BA-5. I would say the little Aleph was pretty surprising. It wasn't the best in terms of Detail, bass, etc but it was very nice sounding. I expected the F6 to sound good and it did.

Let us know your thoughts on the Honey Badger. Would be interesting to hear.

[Heli-Tim]

I'm building a modified DIYA A/B "Honey Badger, v 2.4 . I looked at building a modular Wolverine, but some of the design choices wouldn't work with my configuration. I already had everything purchased for the Badger anyways, and given the high level of fidelity + reliability, I decided to continue with it. I'm using a triple two-pair MJL 4XXX output stage, so should easily be able to handle over 200W/Ch.(which Ill never use).

[Mikerodrig27]

Very cool. What 2-channel amp are you building?

[Heli-Tim]

It was really cool to watch. I've done several boards now, all for the protection system, and one PCB to drive the OLED display and touch sensor buttons that will be on the front panel/ faceplate.

The process is forgiving, and the parts all self-allign with the solder pads.

Some of the ICs, & smaller packages were very intricate, and not possible to do with an iron.

[Mikerodrig27]

Very cool! I've only done a little bit of work with SMDs. A BA2018 preamp. Only with the soldering gun, it was pretty difficult. I'll have to look into your toaster oven method. Looks promising :-) good work!

[Heli-Tim]

Since this is my thread, I'll use it to post progress on both my Amp build, and my speaker build.

Today's update is Amplifier related.

I've been casually working on the protection circuit boards for my 2 Channel amplifier. They came from Virtual Zero Distortion Audio. VZD make custom protection designs. I'm very impressed with their quality, but most importantly, level of support. I couldn't say enough good thing's about this company!

It was my first attempt at SMD soldering, but it went really smooth.

I used a repurposed toaster oven, and followed advice from more experienced builders. It came out really good!

[Heli-Tim]

Well, I'm off to work tomorrow, but I got some last minute excitement... Everything showed up today . I'll have to double check the values, but at first glance it looks like a complete kit!

[Heli-Tim]

This might seem small, but I've been without a work area since we tore down the original house. My Dad helped me gut out the"Storage area", and hang the cabinets. I re-used some old kitchen cabinets and doors to create an electronics shop... Still in progress.

[Heli-Tim]

It sure is!
If I ever get around to finishing the house, I might even have somewhere to put the speakers when they are built. Lol.

[JonMarsh]

Isn't progress great? Nothing like doing something about your deferred gratification!

[Heli-Tim]

I'm very excited, as everything from Solen has officially shipped yesterday! It won't be here in time for me to assemble cross overs or anything, but at least it will be here waiting for me after work in 5 weeks .

My Sledge Hammer inductors are here now as well! It is almost surreal after all these years.

I have also received all of the custom protection circuit boards for the amplifier that will drive these as well, along with my OLED display and capacitive touch power button. I'm very excited indeed.

[Heli-Tim]

Thanks

On another note, My sledge hammer inductors showed up today! I'm away in the Arctic at work, but they'll be home waiting for me when I return!

[Mikerodrig27]

This is an easy way to trim veneer if you don't want to use a router. I actually it is a little less risky in regards to a router bearing getting stuck or something:





You score the veneer with a razor blade and lift the edge. It snaps off. After you get all of your pieces of veneer on, you can soften the edges. You generally want to do the back sides then top. Some species of veneer are easier to work with than others.

You can use a piece of straight flat stock with sandpaper glued to it to get the edge flush on any edges that overhang.

[Heli-Tim]

That's a great idea. I'm not very confident in my ability to paint to my satisfaction, So I'd have to be pretty accurate with trimming the vaneer to get that nice finished look.

I'll definitely add it to the list of options though. It's Kind of a win - win compromise for big posts and an inset box.

[YouTubeUniversi]

Oh and you can still use posts with a recess. Just cut like a 2-3” hole and then glue one of the hockey pucks from a mid cutout on the inside.

[Heli-Tim]

Okay, thatnk's again guys!

I'll see what's available locally for the router.

[YouTubeUniversi]

"If you can tape off the recess when painting (if that’s what you’re doing) then it won’t add material."

Nice acoustic panel stands. If the tolerances are tight enough for paint to cause fitment issues, the recesses and holes aren't large enough. With wood expansion and contraction, tolerances that are that tight can cause issues with your drivers getting stuck. I made that mistake once.

Ha yea I now have a custom allen head thats ground down so I can stick it in a speaker hole to get some of mine unstuck lol

[Mikerodrig27]

"If you can tape off the recess when painting (if that’s what you’re doing) then it won’t add material."

Nice acoustic panel stands. If the tolerances are tight enough for paint to cause fitment issues, the recesses and holes aren't large enough. With wood expansion and contraction, tolerances that are that tight can cause issues with your drivers getting stuck. I made that mistake once.

[YouTubeUniversi]

I bought a router and jig just for these speakers. The Skill combo at Lowe’s. Decently cheaper than the Bosch. First time using one but I’ve been DIY with every other tool known to man my whole life so no big deal. I used whatever overly fancy jig Lowe’s sells. You’ll need some type of cheap caliper to do the recess depth accurately. Otherwise you’ll be going back and forth a lot with the speaker as you slowly get it right.

Remember to add a little bit for the foam surround and paint/veneer. If you can tape off the recess when painting (if that’s what you’re doing) then it won’t add material.

I can’t imagine doing this without a plunge router but I guess it’s possible.

Of course after you make these then you are going to convince yourself you need a center channel, then 7 channel surrounds. You’ll be reusing any tools you buy for the towers pretty quick lol.

When I made acoustic panels I immediately went for the router and did roundovers that I would have never done before as well as the little legs so I didn’t have to drill brick. It’s worth it

[Mikerodrig27]

I have done it where I slowly set the jig/router onto the workpiece while the router is running. However, it is kind of dicey. If you have a popular router model, you may be able to find a plunge base for it. Otherwise, I would just manually plunge it. Just test it out first.

[Heli-Tim]

Cool.

I don't have a plunge router, does that matter? Honestly, I've never used anything outside of a table router before for routing. I have a handheld router, but It's not plunge. I have learning curve to make it up for sure, lol.

I'm better at the electronic side of things, haha.

[Mikerodrig27]

This is a good circle jig:

https://www.amazon.com/Jasper-200J-Circle-Cutting-Plunge/dp/B00009K77A



I used to make circle Jigs myself but have since appreciated using this Jasper jig. It is important to check your settings on a scrap piece.

[Heli-Tim]

Cool. I have a lot of saws and routers, etc. What I don't have, my father has, just down the street from me. Not always the fanciest tools, but functional. I need to make up a jig, I don't have one.

I was gonna buy a track saw for this, because I find it easier to work with than a table saw with full size sheets. Although, We do have a nice industrial table saw down at Dad's house as an alternative.

I was thinking on a recessed plastic terminal panel/box. I haven't decided yet though, as I also like the look of the big binding posts.

[YouTubeUniversi]

You just route the recess for it. I'm assuming you already have a router and circle jig if you are trying to make something like this. I believe it's not too specific where the port is. I saw one guy even did a down firing setup. Halfway between the bottom and the first brace seems to be where most people put it. Also make the decision if you are going to recess the speaker terminals before you start gluing things together. I didn't but if I did it again I would so that if I ever had to travel with them or tilt them way back I don't have to worry about breaking them off.

On the crossover boards, use stainless screws so they don't interfere with the inductors. I like to take 2 cut strips of MDF and screw the boards to them, then hot glue them into the speaker. Then it's easier to remove them if needed and you arent screwing into the actual cabinet.

[Heli-Tim]

Thanks, that reminded me...

Does the port mount proud to the back of the tower? Or is the tower routed to allow the port to sit flush?

[YouTubeUniversi]

Oh also on the port cutout. the inner port flange is smaller than the outer so that you can cut the hole just big enough for the inner flange to fit and insert the whole thing in in one piece from the back. I didnt cut my hole big enough and so I have to insert in inner flange from the inside and tape it to the tube.

[Heli-Tim]

Awesome. I appreciate the tips. I'll need all the advice I can get, lol.

Solen amended my order for the new tweeter resistor, so that's all OK now. My RS225's are at least a month on backorder. Now I just have to play the waiting game.

I'm building a stereo/amp as well. So I can focus on that while I wait.

[YouTubeUniversi]

Also if you havent noticed from other builds about changing the axis all the inductors are facing so they don't interfere with each other. The midrange foam is adjustable in the tunnels. I removed it to see what it did on a FR plot and it makes a huge spike in the midrange without it. I had a little too much foam and it was making a slight dip. removing an inch and tapering it near the woofer a little more flattened out that area.

[Heli-Tim]

Alright, Thanks guys. I appreciate all the help.

I have sent off an email to Solen. Hopefully I cought it in time. They were waiting on my woofers, which were backordered.

[Jim Holtz]

I'm currently flying up to work, so I don't have the schematic. Is the resistor in question, the 6.8ohm 10W Lynx (qty of 2)? I'll email Solen, and have my order adjusted if it's not already on the way.

Yes, there's only one 6.8 ohm resistor on the schematic. R3011 should be changed from 6.8 ohms to 8.2 ohms. A minor change but one that will fine tune the blend of the mids to the tweeter.

Jim

[Heli-Tim]

I'm currently flying up to work, so I don't have the schematic. Is the resistor in question, the 6.8ohm 10W Lynx (qty of 2)? I'll email Solen, and have my order adjusted if it's not already on the way.

[Jim Holtz]

Sorry for the delayed reply. I double checked the diagrams Mark sent me. All I had to update was the tweeter resistor from the original 6.8 ohm to an 8.2ohm.

Thanks for the update! I appreciate it!

Jim

[Jim Holtz]

No problem, thanks for getting back. What was the tweeter resistance updated for? Was It to match a center speaker or something?
I'm thinking I'm OK to build it "as is", unless there is something I'm missing. Do you know if Curt changed the value?

Thanks again.

The change is in the tweeter circuit to fine tune the new mid drivers with the tweeter. I believe that Curt worked with Meniscus and approved the change. The change is minor but a very inexpensive change that should be done.

HTH

Jim

[Heli-Tim]

No problem, thanks for getting back. What was the tweeter resistance updated for? Was It to match a center speaker or something?
I'm thinking I'm OK to build it "as is", unless there is something I'm missing. Do you know if Curt changed the value?

Thanks again.

[YouTubeUniversi]

Sorry for the delayed reply. I double checked the diagrams Mark sent me. All I had to update was the tweeter resistor from the original 6.8 ohm to an 8.2ohm.

[Heli-Tim]

My parallel values got me sitting pretty at 3.6R instead of 3.9R(and within 10%). Given that the sensitivity is within ~ a dB, and Curt mentioned a minor adjustment to r2011 (in another forum) to offset the new sensitivity, I'm thinking I might be good already.

[Heli-Tim]

Original on first, Replacement second. They look very close. It must be a small change.

[Heli-Tim]

Ok, if the update is recommended, than I would like to implement it as well. Perhaps I can add the new value to my order before it ships. My woofers should be in soon.