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  • Tim's Anthologys Build

    Hi Everyone,

    I'm just making this build "Internet Offical". I will post progress as I can!

    I ordered all of the Drivers, Capacitors, Resistors, & Inductors. I even found a source on some Baltic Birch (although it will be a little wait to get it). I'll have to figure out foam, wiring, terminals, etc. as I progress.

    A sincere Thank you to Jim Holtz for all of the support, patience, and advice he has been offering me from behind the scene over the past few years.

    For anyone interested in a Canadian build, I anticipate an approximate cost of $2200-2500 CAD at today's prices. I'm just shy of $1600 into it without the wood, wires, and misc. odds and ends.

    Cheers!

    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by svenarajala; 09 April 2023, 03:04 Sunday. Reason: Update image location

  • #2
    I can relate- BB ply is in short supply, and pricey when you can find it!
    the AudioWorx
    Natalie P
    M8ta
    Modula Neo DCC
    Modula MT XE
    Modula Xtreme
    Isiris
    Wavecor Ardent

    SMJ
    Minerva Monitor
    Calliope
    Ardent D

    In Development...
    Isiris Mk II updates- in final test stage!
    Obi-Wan
    Saint-Saëns Symphonique/AKA SMJ-40
    Modula PWB
    Calliope CC Supreme
    Natalie P Ultra
    Natalie P Supreme
    Janus BP1 Sub


    Resistance is not futile, it is Volts divided by Amperes...
    Just ask Mr. Ohm....

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Jon,

      Here in Newfoundland we are looking at special order only for good quality materials. So about $98CAD for a 5x5 1/2" sheet, or $199CAD for a 4x8 sheet of 3/4.

      MDF is much cheaper, but I absolutely hate cutting it! Especially in my basement!

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Heli-Tim View Post
        Hi Jon,

        Here in Newfoundland we are looking at special order only for good quality materials. So about $98CAD for a 5x5 1/2" sheet, or $199CAD for a 4x8 sheet of 3/4.

        MDF is much cheaper, but I absolutely hate cutting it! Especially in my basement!
        I hope you have a good duet collection system in your basement, on the other hand inside workshop is nice to have as the temps drop up North there.
        Painter in training

        Comment


        • #5
          svenarajala,

          I don't have a proper wood shop, so no dust collector yet! I've been working out of the basement for 4 years now building headers, and doing trim work, etc. on my house. It can get really messy! In hindsight, I would have built the garage first.

          I ended up shutting off the air exchanger line in the basement, that was more trouble than I wanted, lol.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by JonMarsh View Post
            I can relate- BB ply is in short supply, and pricey when you can find it!
            It isn't too hard to find around here, IF you want 1/2 and 3/4", and you're OK with BB (not AA). On the other hand, there is no 5/8" baltic birch to be had anywhere, and that's what I used to make cornhole boards out of. I recently found a LOCAL supplier that I overlooked that had some. They were rationing it, and I was able to get ( 8 ) sheets from them. They are BB, maybe BC, but they weren't too terribly pricey either. Like $60 for a 5x5 sheet...
            CADman_ks
            - Stentorian build...
            - Ochocinco build...
            - BT speaker / sub build...

            Comment


            • #7
              Q & A time!

              1) I was thinking of doing my cross-overs on some Lexan/or Plexi-glass instead of wood, to save a little weight where I can. How hot can the resistors get? I don't imagine they would melt anything?

              2) What is a good foam to use inside of the cabinets? Preferably something that can be purchased locally at a box store if possible.

              Comment


              • #8
                The acrylic isn't going to save much for weight. Jim uses pegboard material which is pretty light. It has holes that increases airflow if the crossover is taking a lot of space up in the cabinet, it is cheap and very easy to work with. Also, the holes work great for zip ties etc.

                I don't know what the foam package for the anthologies is but if you can't buy the foam from meniscus, I suspect that they will tell you what they would suggest. They were the main ones selling the Anthology design for years. I bought a foam package from them for my Bordeaux speakers and it was perfect and I suspect Jim approved.

                I noticed the kit isn't on their site. Is a part out of the production of something?

                I believe curt suggests using Zisters which are resistors with a heatsink on them. "Curt Campbell recently made this change to most of the “Statement” series after customers began burning the mid-range resistors." from Meniscus's website

                The anthology may not have a lot of current going through the resistors as it is a different speaker. I would elevate the resistors off of the board. I tend to do this by zip-tying the leads to the board and bending them so they hold the resistor in an elevated position.

                Lastly, making a speaker light probably isn't the best idea. The nice thing about a lot of mass is that it tends to not want to move. with the cones moving back and forth... That is one of the reasons baffles are generally so thick.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi Mikerodrig27,

                  Thanks for the advice. I think peg board and ty-raps is a fantastic idea!

                  I'm hoping to find foam in Canada, but I will order from the states if required. I've been having a hard time getting things from the US since covid hit. I was going to order the complete kit from Meniscus, but between the kit, the CAD dollar conversion, shipping etc. It was approx. $2000(compared to $1500).

                  I doubled up on 16W resistors to achieve 32 W as opposed to the 20 W using standard ceramic resistors. I found an alternative version of the zister type resistor on mouser, if I have to do an other order before the speakers are built, I'll swap it out.

                  Lastly, good point about the weight. I have an old back injury, so my family has to lug this stuff around. They'll still be good and heavy, I'm shooting for sub 90lbs each, but probably won't achieve it.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Aside from the wood are there other things I might be overlooking that I should order?

                    I will need: foam(wedge and straight), spade terminals, ring terminals, binding posts, hook-up wire(what is recommended?) , titebond, driver mounting hardware.

                    I have tools, and solder etc.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I cannot see your original attachment right now but do you have the precision port?

                      It would be a good idea to get some speaker feet too if you haven't already. I like the Peavy:

                      Peavey Pack Of 4 RUBBER FEET - LARGE 1 1/2" Diameter And 3/4" Tall 51610 New

                      Cheap and very effective.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks for the suggestion on feet. Also, thanks for the Reminder on the port. Hopefully I can catch the supplier before it ships!

                        What do most people use for binding posts? I kind of like those retro looking black/red one's, inside a black box

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have used Cardas for my first build because the cheap knock offs were not available, and the Ardent D's I'm completing right now used the knock offs from Amazon. Parts Express also has a lot of options too. I had to get long posts for the builds I'm assembling.
                          Painter in training

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            These are the ones that I use for my build. They're pretty good for the price

                            https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-BPA-38G-HD-Binding-Post-Pair-Gold-091-1245?gclid=Cj0KCQiAy4eNBhCaARIsAFDVtI29yp863PBmuGr lolDAHsFo28zS7ezSdXgOYjTYiTtz8HrQngyJPTEaAuCCEALw_ wcB

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                            I built a first one F6 clone amplifier and used these binding post:

                            https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-BPFI-G-Fully-Insulated-Binding-Post-Pair-Gold-091-630

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                            The only caution with the ones above, the more expensive ones, is that if you bend the tab, they will break off as they are a cast material. They are tough and extremely easy to work with. I tend to solder my wires to binding post to avoid having too many mechanical connections. They take solder well.

                            Best of luck!
                            Last edited by svenarajala; 09 April 2023, 03:06 Sunday. Reason: Update image location

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks again folks .

                              Rather than continuing to bug Jim via email, I thought I'd ask some more questions here. This is my first speaker build, So... If I seem to know absolutely nothing, that's why .

                              Jim suggested 1 pack of 12pcs (2") *(12") *(12") wedge foam would be more than enough. He also suggested that I need flat foam, and polyfill.

                              How much flat foam would be reasonable to purchase? A half sheet? Full sheet?

                              Also, what the heck is polyfill? Is it like cotton pillow stuffing?

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                Polyfill is that white fluffy stuff that you get in pillows. I bought all of my foam wedge polyfill etc from meniscus. They gave me a flat price for what I needed for the speakers. I don't suspect that there is anything different acoustically between polyfill and the stuff specific to speakers.

                                I believe the flat foam is to be used inside the tube, the open back portion of the mid. At least that's how it is on the Bordeaux. There is a certain recipe that he suggests as far as stuffing the tube. I would suspect that each speaker design is slightly different but if there is a build guide, he most likely mentioned it.

                                The recipe something that you can adjust the taste. It'll affect the sound slightly. However, he tends to spend a good amount of time coming up with this recipe so it is a good starting point for sure.

                                Comment


                                • #17
                                  Thanks Mikerodrig27,

                                  I was going to purchase the whole kit from Meniscus on principle, because they seem to do a lot for the community. I was in communication with them, and sent a few emails back and fourth, but they seem to have lost contact with me. I followed up a few times, and then I moved on. I assumed that my emails started going to their junk folder, or that the cost of international shipping was too much to bother with. I gave up, and bought the drivers, cross over components, etc. here in Canada from Solen. I'd still do business with Meniscus, but a) they don't appear to sell just the foam kits on their website, and b) I cant seem to get a hold of them!

                                  Sincere thanks for the suggestion though! Its not the easiest hobby to break ice on!

                                  Comment


                                  • #18
                                    Interesting. They've always been quick to email back with me. Maybe they're swamped or maybe it's an international thing.

                                    Is there a set of Build plans for the anthologies?

                                    Comment


                                    • #19
                                      Based on how awesome everyone says Meniscus is, and how friendly they were to me, I'm guessing my emails got jammed up in junk. I'm sure it wasn't intentional, after all, if nothing else, it was a lot of money!

                                      http://speakerdesignworks.com/Anthology_3.html this is the documentation. I could probably guess at amounts, but I'm just not confident enough if I'm being honest. My interpretation is that the pvc pipes are lined with flat foam, and nothing else uses it. My next guess is that the polyfill goes around the outside of the PVC tunnels. In the "small box" used to brace the tunnels.

                                      I believe the 2" wedge foam lines the sides, and back of the 2 woofer compartments, but not the braces, and nothing else.

                                      These are just my best guesses though.

                                      Comment


                                      • #20
                                        I managed to get the 3" precision ports added to my order . This is starting to get exciting!

                                        Comment


                                        • #21
                                          It seems like you're right. I was looking for any note about polyfill in the enclosure. I didn't see anything. It sounds like flat foam in the tunnels and wedge foam in the cabinets is all you need. I did see another Anthology build build that Jim was participating in the conversation on that did use Poly fill in the top portion of the cabinet.

                                          http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthr...te-stage-build

                                          It would probably be best to stick to the plans and forgo the polyfill not the top cabinet. You could always MacGyver a way to get polyfill in there if needed.

                                          Nice on the 3" port.

                                          Comment


                                          • #22
                                            This should be most everything you need to build the Anthology's. http://speakerdesignworks.com/Anthology_1.html

                                            Jim

                                            Comment


                                            • #23
                                              Thanks again Mikedodrig27.

                                              Jim, thank you. Your documentation is excellent, and most of my questions are probably covered, I just have beginners feet. It's all new to me, so I question everything over and over. It's hard to get supplies here, and I work a 3 week away/ 3 week home schedule. Overlooking something will Usualy cost me 6 weeks of delay.

                                              I'm sure my second build will have less questions .

                                              Thanks again for everything you do. I can't wait to give you my listening impressions(whatever that's worth) once my Anthologys are competed.

                                              Comment


                                              • #24
                                                Is there perhaps a special name or specification for 6" PVC pipe? I'm having one heck of a time finding it here!

                                                Comment


                                                • #25
                                                  PVC 6" Schedule 40 Pipe.

                                                  A plumbing supply company should have it or be able to order some.

                                                  Comment


                                                  • #26
                                                    Was going to suggest you pop on down to Home Depot but being in Newfoundland, that's going to be a helluva long drive. For the rest of the world, look for 152 - 153 mm

                                                    Comment


                                                    • #27
                                                      I just built a pair. You’ll love them. If I could go back I’d just veneer the mdf instead of painting. Would have way less imperfections and time spent in prep and polish. Wait until you have the drivers before doing the recesses so you can get it tight and verify measurements. I didn’t put any feet on mine for sitting on carpet. They are more stable than I thought.

                                                      Also be aware you will most likely receive the gen 2 midd which have a different crossover resistor than the original plans listed in various places. I can look it up if you need.

                                                      Comment


                                                      • #28
                                                        Thanks YouTubeUniversi! I used the BOM from the Speaker Design Works Offical page. Does this show the correct resistor? See first post for what I've ordered.

                                                        Comment


                                                        • #29
                                                          Originally posted by YouTubeUniversi View Post
                                                          I just built a pair. You’ll love them. If I could go back I’d just veneer the mdf instead of painting. Would have way less imperfections and time spent in prep and polish. Wait until you have the drivers before doing the recesses so you can get it tight and verify measurements. I didn’t put any feet on mine for sitting on carpet. They are more stable than I thought.

                                                          Also be aware you will most likely receive the gen 2 midd which have a different crossover resistor than the original plans listed in various places. I can look it up if you need.
                                                          I'm very pleased to hear you're enjoying your Anthology's. I like them a lot and they get the most playing time in my house.

                                                          I don't have the resistor update on my schmatic. I would very much like to see what changed. Mark (Meniscus) tested the new drivers and made the minor corrections. We were busy with other projects and the change slipped by me. If you could email me with the updated version, I would really appreciate it! My email is listed by clicking on my avatar.

                                                          Thank you!

                                                          Jim

                                                          Comment


                                                          • #30
                                                            Ok, if the update is recommended, than I would like to implement it as well. Perhaps I can add the new value to my order before it ships. My woofers should be in soon.

                                                            Comment


                                                            • #31
                                                              Original on first, Replacement second. They look very close. It must be a small change.

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                                                              • #32
                                                                My parallel values got me sitting pretty at 3.6R instead of 3.9R(and within 10%). Given that the sensitivity is within ~ a dB, and Curt mentioned a minor adjustment to r2011 (in another forum) to offset the new sensitivity, I'm thinking I might be good already.

                                                                Comment


                                                                • #33
                                                                  Sorry for the delayed reply. I double checked the diagrams Mark sent me. All I had to update was the tweeter resistor from the original 6.8 ohm to an 8.2ohm.

                                                                  Comment


                                                                  • #34
                                                                    No problem, thanks for getting back. What was the tweeter resistance updated for? Was It to match a center speaker or something?
                                                                    I'm thinking I'm OK to build it "as is", unless there is something I'm missing. Do you know if Curt changed the value?

                                                                    Thanks again.

                                                                    Comment


                                                                    • #35
                                                                      Originally posted by Heli-Tim View Post
                                                                      No problem, thanks for getting back. What was the tweeter resistance updated for? Was It to match a center speaker or something?
                                                                      I'm thinking I'm OK to build it "as is", unless there is something I'm missing. Do you know if Curt changed the value?

                                                                      Thanks again.
                                                                      The change is in the tweeter circuit to fine tune the new mid drivers with the tweeter. I believe that Curt worked with Meniscus and approved the change. The change is minor but a very inexpensive change that should be done.

                                                                      HTH

                                                                      Jim

                                                                      Comment


                                                                      • #36
                                                                        Originally posted by YouTubeUniversi View Post
                                                                        Sorry for the delayed reply. I double checked the diagrams Mark sent me. All I had to update was the tweeter resistor from the original 6.8 ohm to an 8.2ohm.
                                                                        Thanks for the update! I appreciate it!

                                                                        Jim

                                                                        Comment


                                                                        • #37
                                                                          I'm currently flying up to work, so I don't have the schematic. Is the resistor in question, the 6.8ohm 10W Lynx (qty of 2)? I'll email Solen, and have my order adjusted if it's not already on the way.

                                                                          Comment


                                                                          • #38
                                                                            Originally posted by Heli-Tim View Post
                                                                            I'm currently flying up to work, so I don't have the schematic. Is the resistor in question, the 6.8ohm 10W Lynx (qty of 2)? I'll email Solen, and have my order adjusted if it's not already on the way.
                                                                            Yes, there's only one 6.8 ohm resistor on the schematic. R3011 should be changed from 6.8 ohms to 8.2 ohms. A minor change but one that will fine tune the blend of the mids to the tweeter.

                                                                            Jim

                                                                            Comment


                                                                            • #39
                                                                              Alright, Thanks guys. I appreciate all the help.

                                                                              I have sent off an email to Solen. Hopefully I cought it in time. They were waiting on my woofers, which were backordered.

                                                                              Comment


                                                                              • #40
                                                                                Also if you havent noticed from other builds about changing the axis all the inductors are facing so they don't interfere with each other. The midrange foam is adjustable in the tunnels. I removed it to see what it did on a FR plot and it makes a huge spike in the midrange without it. I had a little too much foam and it was making a slight dip. removing an inch and tapering it near the woofer a little more flattened out that area.

                                                                                Comment


                                                                                • #41
                                                                                  Awesome. I appreciate the tips. I'll need all the advice I can get, lol.

                                                                                  Solen amended my order for the new tweeter resistor, so that's all OK now. My RS225's are at least a month on backorder. Now I just have to play the waiting game.

                                                                                  I'm building a stereo/amp as well. So I can focus on that while I wait.

                                                                                  Comment


                                                                                  • #42
                                                                                    Oh also on the port cutout. the inner port flange is smaller than the outer so that you can cut the hole just big enough for the inner flange to fit and insert the whole thing in in one piece from the back. I didnt cut my hole big enough and so I have to insert in inner flange from the inside and tape it to the tube.

                                                                                    Comment


                                                                                    • #43
                                                                                      Thanks, that reminded me...

                                                                                      Does the port mount proud to the back of the tower? Or is the tower routed to allow the port to sit flush?

                                                                                      Comment


                                                                                      • #44
                                                                                        You just route the recess for it. I'm assuming you already have a router and circle jig if you are trying to make something like this. I believe it's not too specific where the port is. I saw one guy even did a down firing setup. Halfway between the bottom and the first brace seems to be where most people put it. Also make the decision if you are going to recess the speaker terminals before you start gluing things together. I didn't but if I did it again I would so that if I ever had to travel with them or tilt them way back I don't have to worry about breaking them off.

                                                                                        On the crossover boards, use stainless screws so they don't interfere with the inductors. I like to take 2 cut strips of MDF and screw the boards to them, then hot glue them into the speaker. Then it's easier to remove them if needed and you arent screwing into the actual cabinet.

                                                                                        Comment


                                                                                        • #45
                                                                                          Cool. I have a lot of saws and routers, etc. What I don't have, my father has, just down the street from me. Not always the fanciest tools, but functional. I need to make up a jig, I don't have one.

                                                                                          I was gonna buy a track saw for this, because I find it easier to work with than a table saw with full size sheets. Although, We do have a nice industrial table saw down at Dad's house as an alternative.

                                                                                          I was thinking on a recessed plastic terminal panel/box. I haven't decided yet though, as I also like the look of the big binding posts.

                                                                                          Comment

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