Statement II Build Tips

[J-Rye]

Does anyone have a digital copy of the Statement II build tips? I'm putting the finishing touches on an L/R/C build and want to make sure I do the insulation and port correctly. Jim is on vacation and I haven't been able to get a hold of Curt. Thanks in advance.

[Andy_F]

Insulation needs to go on any reflective surface behind the 8" drivers and the port has to be clear of the 8" drivers.

If you search for the original Statements it shows the positioning / size of the port.

I built the "Mini-curved Statements II" which I designed using cad software and taking lots of advice from Jim and Kurt. (I took loads of photos too if you search the forum).

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[J-Rye]

Thanks Andy. The only thing that isn't clear to me about the port is the total required length. The 4" dimension shown in the build plans does not include the length of the flares on the PE kit. I'm using precision ports which require a center piece that is 5" shorter than your overall desired port length (because of the flares). As far as insulation goes, I think I've seen Jim mention it should be at least 1" back from the front baffle, to let the woofers breathe. Does this sound right?

[technodanvan]

Thanks Andy. The only thing that isn't clear to me about the port is the total required length. The 4" dimension shown in the build plans does not include the length of the flares on the PE kit. I'm using precision ports which require a center piece that is 5" shorter than your overall desired port length (because of the flares). As far as insulation goes, I think I've seen Jim mention it should be at least 1" back from the front baffle, to let the woofers breathe. Does this sound right?

PE Kit? Do you mean Meniscus kit? I was under the impression most kits for these already came with Precision Ports. I think you'd be fine with just going with a 4" straight piece and using your flares.

[Jim Holtz]

Hey, I'm back from vacation. 8)

Danny is correct on port length. Tube length should be 4" for the original Statements II cabinets and 5" for the "smaller" Anthology sized cabinets. That makes overall port length including flares about 10" long for the 4" tube and 11" long for the 5" tube.

The foam or what ever you're using should be placed everywhere you can see inside the RS225 woofer compartments while not blocking air flow to the port or between the top and bottom woofer compartments. It should also be held back from the inside front baffle about 1" - 2" so it doesn't crowd the back of the driver.

Sorry, we've never created a build tips for the Statements or Statements II. There have been over 2000 pairs built in the last 12 years and a quick search here or a "google" will usually come up with many, many answers. I didn't mean that to be "snippy" just stating a fact. There are many, many "unsanctioned" build variations and countless recommended builds over the years that are a huge resource for new builders.

HTH

Jim

[J-Rye]

Sorry, we've never created a build tips for the Statements or Statements II. There have been over 2000 pairs built in the last 12 years and a quick search here or a "google" will usually come up with many, many answers. I didn't mean that to be "snippy" just stating a fact. There are many, many "unsanctioned" build variations and countless recommended builds over the years that are a huge resource for new builders.

HTH

Jim

The variations in those answers are what makes it a bit confusing. I’ve seen reference to a parts express port kit that requires a 4.5” center piece for a 7” total port length. My flares add 5” to the total. If 10” is the desired total port length, that’s perfect. I’ll cut my center piece to 5” long

Edit: When I say “desired port length”, I mean the calculated length of the port to reach a certain tuning frequency. This number should be independent of what type of kit or flares are used

[Jim Holtz]

The variations in those answers are what makes it a bit confusing. I’ve seen reference to a parts express port kit that requires a 4.5” center piece for a 7” total port length. My flares add 5” to the total. If 10” is the desired total port length, that’s perfect. I’ll cut my center piece to 5” long

Edit: When I say “desired port length”, I mean the calculated length of the port to reach a certain tuning frequency. This number should be independent of what type of kit or flares are used

Sorry, we switched over to Precision Ports several years ago when PE became an unreliable supplier for their own branded ports. I can't comment on what they're currently offering only Precision Port kits.

Jim

[J-Rye]

Sorry, we switched over to Precision Ports several years ago when PE became an unreliable supplier for their own branded ports. I can't comment on what they're currently offering only Precision Port kits.

Jim

Ahhh, that's good to know. I bought the precision port from PE, so I'll cut the center piece to 4" and call it a day. Right now I have the center piece cut to 2" (7" total port length) with the flares taped to the ends. I had to do something temporary because I COULDN'T WAIT to get these things hooked up. So far I'm in love. I'll try to make a short thread just to document the build and share the finished product. Thank you for taking the time to support the DIY community.

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks Jeremy. I'm looking forward to seeing your build and hearing your feedback! :T

Jim

[13rooks]

Hi there Jim,

I have a question for you, I build 4years ago the statement II without subwoofer,

And now I want to had a subwoofer.
From the bass crossover section,what do I need to change to cut the bass from the 8inch woofer below 60hz( i think it's the best range), because I havr an old Nad C372 without dsp or whatever to cut the bass in the speaker.

Sorry for my English,I'm french

[13rooks]

Thanks Jeremy. I'm looking forward to seeing your build and hearing your feedback! :T

Jim

Hi there Jim,

I have a question for you, I build 4years ago the statement II without subwoofer,

And now I want to had a subwoofer.
From the bass crossover section,what do I need to change to cut the bass from the 8inch woofer below 60hz( i think it's the best range), because I havr an old Nad C372 without dsp or whatever to cut the bass in the speaker.

Sorry for my English,I'm french

[technodanvan]

13rooks,

Given the capabilities of the Statements, I would think it best to run them full range with or without a subwoofer. I'm certain there are several users who are doing this very thing.

[13rooks]

13rooks,

Given the capabilities of the Statements, I would think it best to run them full range with or without a subwoofer. I'm certain there are several users who are doing this very thing.

hi there, for electronic music sometime there are deep bass,and the woofer made a click if pushing too far....so that's why I need to cut bass for them a little bit...and add a suboofer.

thanks for your reply.

[Jim Holtz]

hi there, for electronic music sometime there are deep bass,and the woofer made a click if pushing too far....so that's why I need to cut bass for them a little bit...and add a suboofer.

thanks for your reply.

Passive crossovers aren't recommended for anything below 200+Hz. That's active territory. I like your crossover point of 50-60Hz to the sub. That'll keep most of the mid bass utilizing the RS225's but reason still is required.

I ran my Statements for years full range and rolled my subs in actively in the 50-60 Hz range with no issues. But, I don't get crazy with the volume control or do I listen to electronic music. My subs are also sealed and EQ'ed for an F/3 in the low 20's where they drop like a rock.

HTH

Jim

[13rooks]

Passive crossovers aren't recommended for anything below 200+Hz. That's active territory. I like your crossover point of 50-60Hz to the sub. That'll keep most of the mid bass utilizing the RS225's but reason still is required.

I ran my Statements for years full range and rolled my subs in actively in the 50-60 Hz range with no issues. But, I don't get crazy with the volume control or do I listen to electronic music. My subs are also sealed and EQ'ed for an F/3 in the low 20's where they drop like a rock.

HTH

Jim

Thanks to reply...so I know they are solid speaker( really like them )...I was just aware that if music is high the bass clip sometimes...so I will dial with the eq on my nad c372.

So i let them full range....
Good
Thanks
Chris

[technodanvan]

Hi Chris,

What kind of subwoofer are you using? Something with a plate amplifier?

[13rooks]

Hi Chris,

What kind of subwoofer are you using? Something with a plate amplifier?

I planned to have a css sdx12 with passive subwoofer.

[13rooks]

Hi Chris,

What kind of subwoofer are you using? Something with a plate amplifier?

With a dayton sa1000 or crown xls1002.

I know these day the music can be very different, but mine goes deep... I don't want to break any woofer in the statements II

[technodanvan]

If you go with the SA1000 it has a high pass output - you could use it to filter low frequencies from your Statements. I have no idea how good that filter is but (I think) it would work depending on your setup. Only problem is it looks like it would need to be placed before your preamp in the signal path, so you would be limited to one analog input.