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Greetings fellow speaker builders. I chose the thread title after reading that Jim estimates 2000 builds of the Statements so this one is number 2001. I am about 1/3 of the way through my first set of Statement II speakers build. I had made a few errors along the way so I ask the forum if there are any "directions". I was told there are no directions but that I should post my build here and I would find all the help I might need. My typing skills were poor in 1975 when I took typing and they have not improved over the years. There will be typos and it may take me as long to type the info as it does to build the speakers. I hope to achieve 2 things through the forum. One is to find answers to my questions about the Statement build and second is to list my mistakes so that others may learn from them and hopefully avoid them. I have read countless threads of the Statement build and learned that "it's not happening unless there are photos", so once I try to start this thread I will try to figure out how to attach photos. Wish me luck. Sam
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So I figured out that it will take so time to get photos from my ipad to this thread. When I click on the insert image icon it asks for a url? What's that about? -
This is a test to see if I have attached any images.
I got the URL link to work but how do I get the photo to display?Last edited by theSven; 16 April 2023, 07:02 Sunday. Reason: Update htguide URL - The album is empty though...Comment
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Chrisn, could you tell me how you got the photo from my album to show as an image? So far I have figured out how to get images uploaded to my HTG photo album but I can only make it show as a link? Thanks SamComment
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I went to "go advanced" to reply, clicked on the paper clip/attachment button, uploaded your picture, then dragged it down to the bottom of the basic uploader window, and selected insert inline. That's roughly how I did it. Hope that helps
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To insert photos into a post;
Load the file onto your computer where you can easily locate it.
Click: Go Advanced
Click: Manage Attachments
Click: Add Files
Click: Select Files , browse your computer for files to upload
Click: The photo you want to share
Click: Open
Click: Upload
Click: Done
The process seems more complicated than it actually is. If I can do it, anyone can.
Ron
Ardent TSComment
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Thanks for the directions. I'll see if I can make this work.Comment
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Notch cutout for tweeter
In order for the tweeter to fit between the mids tunnel sections you must cut a clearance notch. I didn't figure this out until I had already glued up the tunnel assemblies. I have tried to attach 2 images of the notch which must be made in the mids tunnel to accommodate the tweeter. In the image on the left I used a wood chisel to hack out notch. In the image on the right I used a long router bit to make the notch. Hopefully you will read this thread before you make the same mistake. The notch is easy to make before you glue the tunnels together.
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Some mistakes to avoid
I will list the mistakes I have made so far so that if you are reading this you can avoid them.
1. There is a note on the bottom of page 4 of the cut list. I tells you to cut the baffle and back about a 1/2" oversized. You can then trim them flush after final glue up. I overlooked that note and made the baffle and back the size indicated on the drawings. If all of your cuts are perfect everything should fit just fine.i have done woodworking for many decades and was as precise as I could be but when I fitted up the pieces with the mids tunnels in place the baffle and back were not wide enough. A 1/16" error in the cuts of 6 pieces of MDF can add up when they are made into an assembly. My mids tunnels were an 1/8" to wide once assembled. I used a sander to remove the extra material until the baffle and back fit. Sorry I didn't take pictures.
2. The notch for the tweeter is described in the above post. The need for the notch is not reflected on the drawing but it is much easier to make before the mids tunnel is glued together.
3. You should mark the factory edges of your MDF before you start making any cuts. You can rely on the factory edges to be square and you can then use them as a reliable reference if needed later.Comment
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Foam placement question
The cut list for the 2" pyramid foam which came with my full kit from Meniscus shows 14 pieces. 8 for the sides of the pair of speakers. 2 for the tops and bottoms. 4 for the backs. In the pic I will attach I have already used half of the foam provided for both speakers and have not covered much of one cabinet. I assume that since I am running short that I am putting it in places it doesn't need to be. Since the point of me taking the time to write this thread is to avoid mistakes so that my Statements are made correctly, can anyone tell me where the foam is supposed to go and maybe where it is Not supposed to go? I know to keep it back away from the driver backs but am not sure about the correct locations to place the foam to eliminate standing waves / internal reflections. Do I need to be concerned about the foam impeding / blocking the flow of air inside the cabinet on its way to the port? Thanks
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Port location
I have decided to place the port in the back of the cabinet. Jim says the back is fine as long as it will not be blocked / restricted. Mine will be located in the lower section centered below the shelf brace. I will attach some images of the overall back and the dimensions I needed to use to make the flare on the port fit flush. Sam
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Speaker placement question
In the attached photos I have tried to show where the speakers will be placed when it use. When not in use they will be pushed back to even with the entertainment system cabinet in the pictures. I'm thinking I will need to put casters on them. I recall from many of the threads I have read that the statements want 3' of space on the sides and at least 18" of space behind. When I took the pics of the intended placement of the speakers I realized the side facing the TV stand has almost no clearance. The left image shows proximity to the tv stand. The right image shows the speaker in its position for use. Is this going to be an issue? Could I put foam on the side of the TV stand to help if needed? Thanks Sam
Last edited by theSven; 16 April 2023, 09:13 Sunday. Reason: Update image locationUpdate image locationComment
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Hi Sam,
I'm not sure how much foam Meniscus is shipping with the kit but I can tell you where to place it. The foam should be placed in the woofer cabinets on the sides, top/bottom and back of the cabinet. If a sound wave can be bounced back into the rear of the driver, it should have foam. On the bottom woofer compartment, foam isn't required in the very bottom or on the shelf brace since it can't reflect into the back of the woofer. Think of where reflected sound could go, cover it and you'll be good to go.
HTH
JimComment
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Clarification, actually, the 2000 was 2-3 years ago and covered Statements, Mini Statements, Statements Monitors, Statements centers, Statements II and Statements II centers. It was an unofficial count and was a rough estimate of published builds on all the various audio and home theater websites plus personal email both he and I receive asking for guidance. They've been built on every continent but one around the world.
I didn't mean that as a "wow, look at us" thing but rather to indicate there are a lot of accomplished builders that are able to offer help if you need it.
Curt and I have been very surprised too at the number of people building the designs to say the least. 8O The good news is, nearly everyone enjoys them and thats the whole purpose of DIY, sharing with others.
JimComment
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Hi Sam,
Placement as you are indicating in the photo will be a problem. The Statements are open back mids which require nothing blocking the reflected rear wave between the speakers from blending with the normal front sound wave. For optimum placement, 18" or more from the rear to the wall behind and from the "side" wall will provide the designed sound quality. The large furniture you have between the speakers will kill the reflected sound wave and they will not sound as designed. If you pull them out to listen to music, they'll need to come out a significant amount to allow the reflection to take place. This will be trial and error to determine the best position for them. Nothing between the top 1/2 of the Statements except a wall mounted flat screen is how they were designed.
JimComment
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Jim,
Thanks for helping out Sam, I knew you would come thru with the correct answers.
Sam,
having the port near the floor will provide a little extra bass boost, a good thing IMO. Thanks for sharing the photos. Looks like your build is progressing rapidly. Nice job describing the issues / problems you've found along the way. I'm sure it will help someone else avoid the same errors.
RonArdent TSComment
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Perfect explanation. Thanks JimComment
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Thanks for the explanation Jim. I may end up moving the whole entertainment system / setup to get the best from the statements. They will be the most important part of the system IMO so I don't have a problem with changing things around. Wife and I can't wait to hear them.Comment
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Hi Sam,
It sounds like you are lucky enough to have a very supportive wife. I do too and it makes the hobby a lot more fun. :T Moving the entertainment center would be ideal if your wife agrees. They will sound as designed then. I've attached a picture of the Anthology's in my living room to give you an idea of what works best for placement in a living area for the family. They're placed 18" from the back of the speaker to the wall behind and have several feet side clearance. 18" outer side clearance works fine but more is good too. Hope that helps.
Good luck with the build journey!
Jim
Last edited by Jim Holtz; 10 September 2017, 15:06 Sunday.Comment
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