Blink's Khanspire Build Thread

[AdelaaR]

Yeah I was wondering what that could mean too ... I'm not a native speaker so I was assuming it's some kind of funny made up word.

[cjd]

No. Too distracted typing on the phone.

[Blink]

lol no worries, I think it'll work swimmingly! Plus it didnt cost me anything! Everything is completely flat now and I've started veneering.



Also the replacement inductor got here today so hopefully I have things completed soon!

[---k---]

Skip the veneer and make some sound. :P

[CADman_ks]

lol no worries, I think it'll work swimmingly! Plus it didnt cost me anything! Everything is completely flat now and I've started veneering.



Also the replacement inductor got here today so hopefully I have things completed soon!

Is that oak veneer?

Do you know if it's rotary, flat, or rift cut?

LOOKING GOOD!!!

[joeybutts]

Skip the veneer and make some sound. :P

WORST IDEA EVER. :evil:

That's why mine are still raw. :P

[---k---]

WORST IDEA EVER. :evil:

That's why mine are still raw. :P

Raw or Naked? Naked is GOOD. See, it is all in how you present it.

[AdelaaR]

:lol:

[Blink]

Is that oak veneer?

Do you know if it's rotary, flat, or rift cut?

LOOKING GOOD!!!

Thanks! It's flat cut ash. Really cheap stuff, but I think im gonna go with a black dye for the finish.

[CADman_ks]

...Really cheap stuff, but I think im gonna go with a black dye for the finish.

That should really look nice dyed black...

[Blink]

I need to find a proper camera... But spent all day veneering, and getting closer to finishing.

[CADman_ks]

DUDE! You're flying!!!

Those are going to look really nice...

[joeybutts]

OMG. It took me over a year. What's this, three weeks?? Nice job.

[WilZirkle]

Now it's just a race to see if you can get yours completely finished before Joey gets his first coat of primer on.....

[---k---]

Please come over to my house and finish my project. I just can't seem to find the energy to get out into the garage and finish it, and it is so close.

[CADman_ks]

Please come over to my house and finish my project.....

I've fallen in a slump too, and just can't seem to get over the hump to get going again. Maybe he can help both of us.

I thought that I was going to have my Ocho's completely done before drivers get here off of backorder, but now I'm not so sure.

I still want to be done before the heat of summer sets in, though...

[joeybutts]

Now it's just a race to see if you can get yours completely finished before Joey gets his first coat of primer on.....

Now that's not nice. :M

True though. :

[---k---]

True though. :

And down right funny. :P

[joeybutts]

And down right funny. :P

Shut up you!! It's all YOUR FAULT!! :B

Alright Blink, let's go. Show us that beautiful product.

[JonMarsh]

I need to find a proper camera... But spent all day veneering, and getting closer to finishing.

Dang! You're the man! All I got done this weekend was figuring out all the mounting issues for the tweeter plates in my Arvo Part Picante's and dimensioning, and drilling a few holes... big whoop!

But then I had a bunch of work stuff, and doing taxes, too- wasn't just sitting around eating bon bons and watching DVD's like K probably was... :W

I'm THAT close to being able to mount and measure drivers, though not on painted and finished baffles...

[---k---]

But then I had a bunch of work stuff, and doing taxes, too- wasn't just sitting around eating bon bons and watching DVD's like K probably was... :W
.

You bechya. My wife was out of town, so I don't think a put a pair of pants on once.

[Blink]

Started dyeing tonight (not dying ) I'm using HOMESTEAD TransFast Dye
Here's after one coat (still drying):

[Blink]

Also, I almost forgot, thank you everyone for the compliments again!!

[CADman_ks]

Started dyeing tonight (not dying ) I'm using HOMESTEAD TransFast Dye ...

Just reading on that dye stuff, and it appears to be a neat process.

It appears that you have some lighter spots, which is what always happens with darker stains, and you're as dark as you can go with black, but this is dye, not stain.

How many coats of that dye do you think you'll need to put on?

Did you spray it on, or wipe it on?

Alcohol or water?

[joeybutts]

Going to be DAMN SEXAY when you are done. Lovin' it.

[---k---]

Those look fantastic! They'll look even better once you get the glossy finish on them.

I'm no where near an expert here, and this may be horrible advice, but I seem to remember remember when I did my small little D4, after I stained them, I wiped them with water to make the grain swell and pop, then I hit it very lightly with fine sandpaper to take some of the stain off the top of the grain. Then, optional, to go back with a diluted stain. Something like that. I was working with some birch ply that didn't have near the definition and prominent grain as what you have. But might be something to experiment on some scrap and see if you like.

Here are my results. Please ignore the slot port. 4 years later and I still haven't fixed that. ops:

Image not available

[AdelaaR]

I too thought immediately of those F4's when seeing the finishing

Nice one, Blink!

[Blink]

Just using a quart of water mixed with 1 oz of the powder dye. The first coat I wiped on, but decided I couldn't get an even coverage that way (you can see it on the left one). So for the second coat I tried a roller... Got too much water on the veneer and it's expanding and lifting in spots!! So I'm gonna put one more light coat on and try to iron those spots back down (got 5 more days of reactivation with the titebond 1, I suppose). Then I'm gonna decide on the final coat, thinking I'll try some wipe on poly on my test piece first.

Does everyone else get that strong urge to just leave work and go home and work on their speakers??

[CADman_ks]

... Got too much water on the veneer and it's expanding and lifting in spots!! So I'm gonna put one more light coat on and try to iron those spots back down (got 5 more days of reactivation with the titebond 1, I suppose). ...

Oh shoot. That's too bad. I have not gone the full seven days on Titebond, but I have gone one day, and it does take longer after it is dry. While I suspect that you will be able to get it back together, don't be surprised if it takes longer than it did initially. At the same time, don't pour a ton of heat into either. Just as much as you need. Too much, and it might buckle even more due to expansion

...

Does everyone else get that strong urge to just leave work and go home and work on their speakers??

LOL! I haven't had that feeling for a while, but I do get it every now and then, ESPECIALLY when the weather is gorgeous outside (like it is right now!)

[yzracer14]

Does everyone else get that strong urge to just leave work and go home and work on their speakers??

Everyday!!!

Unfortunately, when I get home, my three kids occupy my time and I'm lucky to get 30 minutes a day to work on them. Most of my work has been from strategically placed "days off".

[CADman_ks]

...

I'm no where near an expert here, and this may be horrible advice, but I seem to remember remember when I did my small little D4, after I stained them, I wiped them with water to make the grain swell and pop, then I hit it very lightly with fine sandpaper to take some of the stain off the top of the grain. Then, optional, to go back with a diluted stain. Something like that. ...

I'm no expert on dyes at all, since I have never used them. But, I have stained a fair amount of stuff in my day.

Maybe dye is different, but I do this when I'm staining:

• Sand everything to the point / finish / smoothness that you desire
• Take a wet cloth, but not dripping wet, and wet all surfaces that you want to stain. This will cause the grain to "rise" above the surface, and you will think that you have ruined the whole thing
• Take some well USED 180-220 sandpaper (something like 320 / 400 might work as well, but I never have that at home), and lightly, very lightly, sand all of the surfaces again, knocking off all of the raised grain
• Wipe it down with tack cloth to get all of the sawdust off. I don't blow off, because I think that tack cloth does a better job
• Stain with whatever your prefered method is. Since you pre-raised the grain, it will not pop back up on you when you apply the stain, and you will end up with a flat surface. I often times wipe lighter coats on, and do NOT wipe off. Or, if I do put it on heavier, I wipe the whole thing down, using the same rag to do the whole thing, and going over it several times with the same rag to evenly distribute the stain. If you use multiple rags, you'll often times end up with lighter spots in some areas because a fresh rag will soak up more stain.
• Tack cloth again after staining
• Finish with poly / lacquer / danish oil / etc...

The big difference I see is that I never sand AFTER the stain has been applied, but that may be different with dye, so Ryan's process may be correct, I'm not sure...

[---k---]

There are probably lots of methods and it depends on what you're trying to achieve. The method I suggested is intended to create more pronounced appearing grain. The tops of the grain would essentially be unstained while the valleys stained. Kind of a faux finish.

I also read once and always wipe with alcohol because it won't raise the grain like water. But really, my experience level is very shallow and have low expectations.

[WilZirkle]

Ryan, I did that with my daughters bed, it's pine finished with a green stain, then sanded and stained with minwax gunstock. It looks good, almost "antiqued". Sorry for being a little off topic.

[WilZirkle]

Blink, do you have a list of the parts you got for your crossover. (or Ryan, or Joey) I'm not sure where the latest most up-to-date list is.

Joey, I am being lazy and not posting this in your center thread. Do you have to list for your Center?

Wil

[joeybutts]

For the Khan's? I used the top shelf list on the first page of the design thread.

The Dayton RS Center list is actually in the Khancenter thread.

[---k---]

Except for the costs, everything in the Khan's parts list is accurate. You probably don't want to know the cost increase until you've fully committed yourself.

[joeybutts]

Except for the costs, everything in the Khan's parts list is accurate. You probably don't want to know the cost increase until you've fully committed yourself.

Using slightly different materials in the misc section, mine came to a total of $1100 for the pair if I bought everything brand new, retail.

[Blink]

I went with the cheaper crossover, and spent this much:
$107.39 Madisound
$737.96 Parts Express

PE includes a Jasper Jig, 2 port tubes, and 4 sets of the $8.48 binding posts

[cjd]

I have to say... shellac as both a sanding sealer and as a dye carrier rocks. Sanding with 400 grit between coats, to 3 or 4. Switch to a poly/tung oil mix and move to 600grit. 800 before final coat. Not reflective but very deep gloss and grain pop.

[Blink]

So the flash on a camera is a double edged sword... makes it look alot lighter than it is in normal lighting, but it also makes it much easier to see where I've messed up!



Did I just buy really cheap veneer, or is that normal with the alternating lighter then darker sections where its joined? (its barely visible now in normal lighting though)

[AdelaaR]

Shhh ... don't stare at the details ... they look great

What did you use to glue the dampening material?
I'm gluing my dampening in my Statements atm with spray glue ... but I'm going through bottles way fast

[slusho]

Those are really looking great! And you make it seem easy, plus I have always been a sucker for black or gray dye on ash.

I do have one question - am I the only one that uses the old-style bar clamps from HF? Not the knock-off plastic ones, and not the pipe clamps, just regular bar clamps? I have a bunch, and they are even less expensive than the quick release ones, and seem to hold up really well.

[CADman_ks]

... Did I just buy really cheap veneer, or is that normal with the alternating lighter then darker sections where its joined? (its barely visible now in normal lighting though)

Do you know for sure what grade of veneer you bought?

Even if your veneer is "B", I think that it's normal variation in the way that veneer, and wood in general looks.

It might be easier to see these differences, though, when you're going black...

[Blink]

Shhh ... don't stare at the details ... they look great

What did you use to glue the dampening material?
I'm gluing my dampening in my Statements atm with spray glue ... but I'm going through bottles way fast

Thanks! I just used a hot glue gun, and I think it worked pretty well.

I do have one question - am I the only one that uses the old-style bar clamps from HF? Not the knock-off plastic ones, and not the pipe clamps, just regular bar clamps? I have a bunch, and they are even less expensive than the quick release ones, and seem to hold up really well.

I have a couple bar clamps, and the problem I have with them is the bar bends way too much if lots of pressure is needed.

I'm not unhappy with the veneer at all! I think it looks good, I was just merely curious. Here's the veneer I used Ash, White, Flatcut

[Renovator]

Did I just buy really cheap veneer, or is that normal with the alternating lighter then darker sections where its joined? (its barely visible now in normal lighting though)

Hi. Pretty normal for veneer.
We'd call that "Picket Fence" at work. I believe it comes from the way veneer is sliced, which means that the woodgrain on each side of the veneer leaf is affected differently as one side is being lifted when the blade cuts the leaf from the log. Then every second leaf is turned over, if you are bookmatching, which it appears you have, so you get a subtle difference in how the grain reflects light and how it will take a stain.
Have never done it but I'm told by guys with a lot more experience than me that you can overcome the effect by roughing the surface of the veneer (like a good hit with 80 grit) which will break up the surface so both sides of the leaf are even. and then stain. Then seal coat, sand to de-nib and then move on to finish.
Like I said, I'm not an expert in finishing, so would pay to do furthre research if you want to overcome. I may be able to find you some links to industry papers on it if you wanted.
Cheers
Lewis