Please, No Laughing, Spitting or Throwing anything at the Noob

[kingpin]

Thanks for the info Chris.

I have made a new model which is to scale.
I Have made the base wider on the sides so it is a total of 16" wide and have also made it thicker to 2".

The new pics don't show the 3/4" bevel as I had problem with Google sketch-up not doing what I wanted it to do. There will also be the holes cut out of the braces which are not on the drawings.

I am still looking to find out what the proper spacing on the subs should be.

Here are the specs on the subs.

RSS315HF-4 12" High Fidelity Subwoofer Specifications

Power handling: 400 watts RMS/700 watts max
VCdia: 2-1/2"
Le: .95 mH
Impedance: 4 ohms
Re: 3.3 ohms
Frequency range: 23 - 1,000 Hz
Fs: 23 Hz
SPL: 89 dB 2.83 V/1m
Vas: 3.00 cu. ft.
Qms: 3.00
Qes: .52
Qts: .44
Xmax: 14mm
Dimensions:
Overall Diameter: 12-3/8"
Cutout Diameter: 11-1/8"
Mounting Depth: 5-3/8"

Stupid ? When you change the number of drivers in Winisd does it also change the box volume. I seem to get the same volume 3508.9 in^3 whether using 1 or 2 drivers.

Thanks
Mike

BTW Some new pics.

Images not available

[cjd]

Looking good to me. With a 2" baffle, you may not need to bother with the tweeter "box" and could just put a "cap" behind it (i.e. a slab of wood over the hole in the baffle).

Box volume for the two subs I get ~115L or ~4.2cu/ft or 7250 cu/in. And I think you're going to be right in that range. This is with them sealed, btw. If you want ported, go with the 10" RS subs in the same box tuned to 20Hz. This will actually be a fairly balanced system still, with them all hitting their xmax limits at around 110dB (per speaker, that is).

Spacing, I would just split the distance between the bottom midrange driver and the bottom of the speaker box and space them evenly. It will not be particularly critical, assuming they get crossed in somewhere between 50Hz and 80Hz.

C

[kingpin]

Looking good to me. With a 2" baffle, you may not need to bother with the tweeter "box" and could just put a "cap" behind it (i.e. a slab of wood over the hole in the baffle).

I think I will go this route. The mounting depth of the tweeter as per the Dayton specs. say 1 3/4".
I take it this has no ill effects on the tweeter?
So I will be able to delete the tweeter enclosure from my plans.
Does this have any effect on the mid enclosure?
Should I still build the tweeter enclosure?

A note on using the felt for better diffraction: You can opt to not use it - if you do this, the tweeter will pick up a deeper dip (-3dB) at 2625Hz. There is nothing specific that can be done in the crossover to correct for this - it is the nature of the beast. It is recommended, however, that a strip of wool felt between 1/4" and 1/2" thick is placed vertically on either side of the tweeter (directly adjacent to the grille). If you use thicker felt, soften the corner a touch. This could be trimmed to fit entirely on the tweeter face-plate if desired.

I am a little confused as to where this piece of felt goes. ops: I understand the vertically part. Are you saying the felt goes against the back of the tweeter and in front against the tweeter grill? I told you there are more stupid questions coming.

Box volume for the two subs I get ~115L or ~4.2cu/ft or 7250 cu/in. And I think you're going to be right in that range. This is with them sealed, btw. If you want ported, go with the 10" RS subs in the same box tuned to 20Hz. This will actually be a fairly balanced system still, with them all hitting their xmax limits at around 110dB (per speaker, that is).

I am going to stick with a sealed box and the 12's all the way around. The dual 15" sub I will build after this will be ported though.

Spacing, I would just split the distance between the bottom midrange driver and the bottom of the speaker box and space them evenly. It will not be particularly critical, assuming they get crossed in somewhere between 50Hz and 80Hz.

Sounds easy enough.

From what I have read and learned so far the width of the baffle not including the bevel is extremely important.
Does it matter how close the edge of a driver comes to this?

On page 16 of the Dayton 3way rs thread the picture shows the front baffle to be 14" wide and the height at 50". On page 17 the cut sheet shows these being 14 1/4 x 50 1/4. Even with a 1/4" dado on the sides that would make the baffle width 13 3/4. Unless I am missing something here. Which is extremely possible.

Thanks again Chris.


Mike

[cjd]

Ahh, yes. Baffles are cut oversized and brought back to spec with a flush-trim bit. I do this for all my boxes and I think it's fairly common procedure, but we don't always note that. Good catch.

A driver getting close to the edge is fine - actually, the ones that matter are the 3 in the base design (RS270's, RS180's, tweeter).

Felt goes on after everything is assembled - I'm not currently using any. A pair of four inch tall by one inch wide by ~1/4" thick slabs of wool work perfectly on a speaker - just place one on either side of the tweeter grill (but over the face plate).

Tweeter enclosure can be left off. It probably doesn't need to be there on a 1.5" baffle, to be honest. It's there mostly to make sure there aren't undue stresses on the tweeter from the mids - since the RS28A is a sealed back, it's probably not even necessary, but I always feel more comfortable having it. And a little room for wire. The mids will enjoy having a little more volume in the box, so it's a gain there as well.

C

[kingpin]

I think these are the final drawings. Hopefully.
Is there such thing as too much bracing.
Is this overkill for the 12's?
I am thinking there can never be too much.

Images not available

It looks like the overall size will be somewhere around.
Drum Roll please...........................

24" Deep(top)
27 1/2" Deep(bottom)
14" Wide
79" Tall
240-260 Lbs(unloaded)est. 8O 8O :B :B

1" mdf construction all the way around including mid-box.
I may use 3/4" for braces if that is o.k.
2" front baffle
2" base oversized for stability
3 sets of posts(have to ask Mr. Bunge how he did this)high,mid,mid-low
1 set for the subs

And then they will be dipped in platinum for that extra blingy look :B :rofl:

Mike

[jdybnis]

No reason to put the mids in separate compartments. Nor the 10's or the 12's for that matter. You might as well use the space behind the mids for the 12's. A bigger box is always better for the drivers. I'd also reconsider porting. Work out the numbers. I think you'll find that you can go flat down to at least 20hz. Adding the 15's won't get you much more and you're better off spending the money somewhere else. Like on better amplification.

[cjd]

I believe this drawing is simply missing the holes in the horizontally placed braces.

The space behind the mids belongs to the RS270's.

I would not port ANYTHING here - none will port well with the box volumes being used - this is designed to be a sealed system. 10" RS HF Subs WILL port at 20Hz in the exact volume being used by the 12" RS HF subs sealed, if that is desired.

Since I believe a digital crossover is planned to integrate the subs with the core 3-way, it should also be able to handle boosting the bottom end on the 12's. This is how I would do these.

As such, I agree - 15's may not be necessary at all.

DO spike these - anchoring them to the floor solidly will be crucial for both sound and stability.

MDF sucks, but works well enough. Actually, very well for speakers, I just hate it. You're GOING to need a heavy duty hand truck to move these, and a helper. Going to be insanely heavy and a bit ungainly - easy to topple. Can't get to PE to throw together driver weights.

C

[seattle_ice]

I think he will need to BOLT them to the floor. What are those little spikes going to do in an earthquake? :P

[kingpin]

DAYTON RS270S 11.00 lbs x 2= 22lbs
DAYTON RS180S 5.50 lbs x 2= 11lbs
DAYTON RSS315HF-4 12" 25.oolbx x 2= 50lbs
DAYTON RS28A-4 1.80lbs x 2= 3.6lbs
Crossovers ????????????????
----------------------------------------------------------------
total 86 lbs
Cabinet 240 lbs
----------------------------------------------------------------
grand total 326 lbs


WoooooooHoooooooooo :T :T

Each tower is going to weigh what I weigh. :E :E

Mike

[kingpin]

Oh, and I will not be porting the subs.
But I am planning to cut 3" holes in the baffles.
I am planning on buying the Beheringer ULTRADRIVE PRO DCX2496. Someone is gonna have to help me with this thing.
Spikes. These will add another pound plus an inch to the towers.

Oh well so I guess I will be breaking the 80" mark.
Time to raise the ceiling again. :B

Mike

[derekbannatyne]

Oh, and I will not be porting the subs.
But I am planning to cut 3" holes in the baffles.

Huh, what do you mean?

[opt-e]

Huh, what do you mean?

I think he probably meant the braces.

[cjd]

Nah, we're trying for that new modinopole concept with the holes in the baffle. Helps keep weight down too!

C

[seattle_ice]

Nah, we're trying for that new modinopole concept with the holes in the baffle. Helps keep weight down too!

C

'Paging Dr. Quackindipole. Paging Dr. Quackindipole. We have a speaker design emergency. Stat.'

[kingpin]

Um Yeah. I mean cutting 3" holes out of the baff.... ,, I mean baffl....,, @#$$@## :W :W

I mean cutting 3" holes out of the braces. ops: :T

Chris, or any one else who has done this. Can you tell me the exact name and size of the router bits I need. From the cutting to the bevelling.

I plan on doing I think what is called a round-over on the back of the baffle for each speaker.

I also plan on rounding every single 3" hole on the braces front and back like I think Mr. Bunge has done.

I guess that the 3/4 bevel on the baffle is with a table saw.

I have to check out some of the router threads on here to understand a bit more on routers. I think I may cut a couple extra baffles just in case.

What would you say the crossovers weigh.

:unsure: Anybody ever not mounted the cross-over in the tower itself and just placed them on their audio rack or something else. Does it matter where the cross-over is mounted and how long of a lead from the cross-over to the speakers. Does the distance from the cross-over to the speaker make a difference(within reason).

Mike

[kingpin]

:wtf:

:M :M

I just took a measurement and it looks like the tweeter will be 42 3/16 from the floor. :cry: that is with the spikes on the bottom.

This is not good is it.

Sitting on my couch my ear is 39" from the floor.
How much of a problem is this?
From what I have read isn't the tweeter supposed to be about 35-36" from the foor.

What we professional designers go through. :B

Thoughts and answers needed soon or I will go crazy about this.
I need the truth, I can handle the truth. :lol:

Mike

[opt-e]

You want the tweeters about ear-level. 3" different isn't too far off... Should be fine. :T

[cjd]

Gonna have to wait till tomorrow for answers.

I rounded over braces too. Looks nice, makes ya feel good. ANd makes others wonder about your sanity. If you don't have a router table, don't bother.

C

[seattle_ice]

Chris, or any one else who has done this. Can you tell me the exact name and size of the router bits I need. From the cutting to the bevelling.

Sure, I will give you a starting point. There are lots of opinions, but this should be a good starting point.

1. Driver cutouts - 1/4" x 1", 1/2" x 1", 1/2" x 1/-1/2" straight bit, or spiral upcut. The smaller the bit, the easier it is to control. The Spiral bits are very nice, but somewhat expensive. Also, the longer the bit, the more it will want to vibrate. If the material is thicker than the bit is long, you can flip it over and finish the cut from the other side.

2. Driver Recesses - Same as above. The smaller diameter bits will take more passes if the width of the recess is wider than the bit eg: If the driver cutout is 11" and the outside diameter is 12", that would take at least two passes with a 1/4" dia. bit.

3. Roundovers - I use a 3/8" round bit for the braces. That way it comes out exactly round with 3/4" material when you go from each side. I do these without a router table, so maybe I am just OCD or something. The baffles and others are kind of a personal taste. Some people like them a little more rounded than others. A 1/2" or 3/4" round are probably the most common. These bits have bearing guides on them.

4. Bevels - Exactly like a Corner Round bit, except at an angle, typically 45 degrees. I use a 3/4" 45 degree bevel for opening up the back of the driver openings, as well as cutting other bevels. You can also cut edge bevels on a table saw if you wish.

Anywhere you need to start a routing operation in the middle of the material, you will want to use a plunge router.

Also, a circle cutting jig is a necessity. You can use a Jasper Jig, or make something yourself. There are numerous threads that have more info on routers and jigs.

:unsure: Anybody ever not mounted the cross-over in the tower itself and just placed them on their audio rack or something else. Does it matter where the cross-over is mounted and how long of a lead from the cross-over to the speakers. Does the distance from the cross-over to the speaker make a difference(within reason).

Mike

I know that outboard crossovers are done. How much distance? Not sure.

[kingpin]

Thanks Darryn.

Nice of you to offer up all the info. Much appreciated.
It will be a hairy time when it comes to routing the baffles.
I will be doing a lot of practising first though.

I have to remember: measure 10 times cut 1 time.
I will also have to grow some patience as I seem to be lacking it these days.

Thanks again
Mike

[seattle_ice]

Just buy a little extra MDF and practice on it. I always test first on scraps myself.

Well, I know lots about woodworking, very little about crossovers. I am going to need some help myself at various points.

[cjd]

Ok. for the inside of the baffle, I would go with a 45 angle bit - you really need to make sure you open it up enough for the driver to breathe properly on the inside. I actually used a 3/4" roundover and a 3/4" cove bit to create an "ogee" curve for driver relief. A pain to do, I don't recommend it. But my chamfer bit was delayed and I was impatient...

I used a 3/8" roundover on the braces. I have a 1.25" 45 chamfer bit (from MLCS - not too expensive). I have a 2" flush-trim bit (crucial IMHO). I use a 1/4" spiral-upcut bit. If I am going through finish veneer, I do my first pass 1/16" deep with a spiral downcut bit, then switch to upcut. I cut in multiple passes no more than 1/4" at a time. Except for the spiral bits (1/4") I use only 1/2" shank bits. You can get 1/2" spiral bits, and I'll very likely be going with them in the future (MLCS has them, most other places do not).

Unless you have a big shop and can sled the entire speaker, I do not recommend doing the chamfer on a saw - it requires too much precision in assembly and hurts the ability to use that flush-trim bit to make things perfect.

For doing the driver recesses, ponder going with templates instead. Allows for much greater precision, and depending how you set things up there are some significant benefits. Still requires you to get it right once, but there are ways, and template material is less costly.

3/4" bracing is fine, by the way. It's what I used.

Tweeter height - 42.5 is a bit on the high side, but 3.5" above ear height shouldn't really be an issue at the 2-3M seating distance these are going to kind-of demand.

As for external crossovers: You can do this, but I do not recommend it. Why? Because the more wire you put on the woofers, the more impedance you add in series, and the higher the Q goes with a fixed box volume. If you want to mount them outside the box, do a nifty installation on the back of the boxes rather than your equipment rack. I've seen some very slick setups for this type of mounting, and the angled back could lend itself to this quite well. Plus, more binding posts = more cost and IMHO not really necessary.

If you want to really go fancy on the wire, snag some mil-spec teflon insulated silver plated copper 12ga wire from ApexJR.com for the woofer wiring. 14ga is fine for the mids/tweets.

C

[seattle_ice]

I have a 2" flush-trim bit (crucial IMHO). I use a 1/4" spiral-upcut bit. If I am going through finish veneer, I do my first pass 1/16" deep with a spiral downcut bit, then switch to upcut. I cut in multiple passes no more than 1/4" at a time. Except for the spiral bits (1/4") I use only 1/2" shank bits. You can get 1/2" spiral bits, and I'll very likely be going with them in the future (MLCS has them, most other places do not).

For doing the driver recesses, ponder going with templates instead. Allows for much greater precision, and depending how you set things up there are some significant benefits. Still requires you to get it right once, but there are ways, and template material is less costly.

C

I forgot the flush-trim bit. Can't forget that one. Very useful in many different ways.

The 'Downspiral' part is important. It will greatly reduce any chance of flaking up the edges of your cuts. Worst case, make the first pass with a straight cut bit, not the upspiral.

Templates are particularly good for one overridding reason. It is very difficult to mess up anything outside the intended cut area. Plus what Chris said about the material. Templates can be made from inexpensive hardboard or the like, so if you mess something up, it is no big deal.

[Martyn]

If you're new to routers, I suggest you get a book out of your local library first. A big, ugly 1/2" cutter doing 20,000 rpm in a 2 1/2 hp router can do a lot of damage faster than you can blink. Sooner or later you're going to unintentionally do a climb cut - you'll be amazed how fast that thing will take off! If you're lucky, you won't be too badly mutilated and might even still be able to have children. :E

I echo Chris' comment about a router table. A good one is an excellent investment (either shop-bought or home-built). Makes dust collection easier too.

Bear in mind also what happens when you round-over a piece of 3/4" MDF with a 3/8" radius cutter - after you've rounded-over the first side and flipped over the brace, there's no flat surface for the bearing to follow when you do the second side (and I hope you're not going to try this freehand without a bearing). Either use a template (more work) or use a 1/4" radius round-over cutter with a bottom bearing. Only the obsessive-compulsives will worry about the difference between a 1/4" and 3/8" radius on a 3/4" brace!

I agree with the various recommendations for a 45 degree bearing cutter (indispensable), long and short flush cutters (also indispensable), spiral up and down cutters (a bit of a luxury), and a few plunge cutters. Half inch is best. Buy nothing but carbide-tipped, and don't buy cheap ones. Look closely for clean welds and minimal machining marks on the cutting faces. Anti-kickback designs are a good idea too. You'll probably find most of the basic ones in a simple set of 12 or 15 cutters.

[Dennis H]

Sooner or later you're going to unintentionally do a climb cut

Well, I probably shouldn't mention it here as it's an advanced technique, not for beginners, but I always do a climb cut as the first cut on hardwood because it minimizes the risk of blowouts. Then I clean up with a cut the other way.

We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming....

[seattle_ice]

Well, I probably shouldn't mention it here as it's an advanced technique, not for beginners, but I always do a climb cut as the first cut on hardwood because it minimizes the risk of blowouts. Then I clean up with a cut the other way.

We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming....

You almost have to prior to crossshaping an edge. Otherwise you get some nasty splintering.

[kingpin]

Thanks Chris for the detailed post. It will help me a lot and I am sure save me some money in buying the bits I need.
I take it that routing MDF is a lot easier than a hardwood or even B.B.
There is no splintering to worry about. I am sure MDF brings up it's own set of problems though. ie. dust.

"Martyn" Thanks for scaring the crap out of me. :B
Warning is taken seriously and not with just a grain of salt.
Of all the power tools I think this one is one of the most scariest to use. Maybe because I haven't been around them all that much or because of the speed of that sharp bit at 20,000rpm.
If you :Z with this tool, you lose.

I think I may get some bits soon and start some practising.

Thanks.

P.S. I am starting with 10 fingers 10 toes and a full set of jewels. Let's hope this stays the same. :lol:

[Martyn]

Oh, I forgot to mention...don't wear a tie when using a router! :E

[cjd]

Table saw is worse. But a router can get ugly really fast also - probably very close. If you're using a big bit, adjustable speed is REQUIRED. I think the 3.25hp Hitachi is still dirt cheap at Amazon, if you don't have a router yet. Excellent workhorse.

My whole spring/summer put a month+ late due to a table saw incident (no blade contact, was a dado cut, was doing what I was doing correctly but didn't have featherboards...) My finger still has a ways to go, though it's back to working properly it swells up in heat and with use and there is still joint discomfort as a result.

So, really, do take care.

C

[kingpin]

Table saw is worse. But a router can get ugly really fast also - probably very close. If you're using a big bit, adjustable speed is REQUIRED. I think the 3.25hp Hitachi is still dirt cheap at Amazon, if you don't have a router yet. Excellent workhorse.

My whole spring/summer put a month+ late due to a table saw incident (no blade contact, was a dado cut, was doing what I was doing correctly but didn't have featherboards...) My finger still has a ways to go, though it's back to working properly it swells up in heat and with use and there is still joint discomfort as a result.

So, really, do take care.

C

Chris you have a pm.


I was going to ask you about your hand, but I didn't want to get personal.
I just met you and didn't want to ask questions in case it was something more involved.
I am happy to hear you are doing better and wish you the speediest in recovery.

BTW. I retruned the router that I bought A few weeks ago(1/4" collet plunge router) and bought another one. Still not heavy duty but I think it will do what I want it to do. If not I can just return it to Rona(Cdn. version of Home Depot) and getting something else, I work there and got a pretty sweet deal on this one. Regular $140.00 I think, on sale for $99.99, with my discount it cost me $82.00.

Here are the specs.

2 hp
1/4 & 1/2 collet
Plunge and Fixed Base
27,000 rpm Variable speed from 8,000 - 26,000rpm
Soft start
Parallel guide included
See through guards
Template guide bushings
2" plunge capacity
Spindle Lock
Dust collection

Image not available


1/2 in. and 1/4 in. 12 A. 8,000/26,000 RPM. Electric supply. Magnesium-alloy construction. Plunge base for day-to-day jobs including rabbeting, decorative edges and trimming. Fixed base comes in handy when used with a router table. Soft start limits start-up speed even when the tool is under load. Continuous speed control even when the tool is not used at full capacity. Micrometric depth adjustment allows precise depth settings to be made. 2-in. plunge capacity for a large range of applications. Full rubber over-moulded handles. 8-position turret stop assists when cutting deep recesses by allowing gradual selections in the cutting depth. Includes: parallel guide, template guide and wrench. 3-year warranty.

I am getting excited now. Too bad it will still be a few weeks before I start.

Mike

[cjd]

That router should do the trick well enough.

I've had 1/4" shanks break, though only after a bearing burned out, but not with clear (to me) warning. Getting to know the difference between happy router sound and not happy router sound is interesting.

C

[kingpin]

Is there any way to get a matched pair of the RS28A-4.
I am sure that having 2 of them(non matched) would only have a slight difference but figuring the money I am dropping for these speakers I guess it doesn't hurt to ask.

Reason I am asking this is because I have read in a few different places that one of the small faults with these tweeters is that you could get 2 with totally different specs. Granted it was also implied that these were earlier models of the tweeters.

Was just curious if anybody knows.

Mike

[cjd]

I don't know that PE is offering them in matched pairs at all.

It would probably be possible to find someone willing to run some tests and ship you a matched pair - the trick is, will it take more than two?

C

[kingpin]

I don't know that PE is offering them in matched pairs at all.

It would probably be possible to find someone willing to run some tests and ship you a matched pair - the trick is, will it take more than two?

C

Well, I guess for the time being I won't worry myself about this.
Anybody have a matched pair to sell.

Mike

[kingpin]

Can I get an opinion please

Can anybody give me an overall comparison on these 2 12" subs. I will post the specs for each.
These are the bottom 2 drivers in my towers. They are not being used in a different enclosure.

The difference for me is in pricing.

The Adire's I can get in Canada for around $171 to my door including taxes and shipping.

The Daytons will cost me $123.00us with shipping, duty , taxes and conversion it is around $228.00. 123+30sh+19duty+taxes = est$123.00

If the Dayton is that much better than I don't mind spending the money.
If I could save $240(I need 4 of them) plus the extra shipping on top of that it would be a bonus.

RSS315HF-4 12" High Fidelity Subwoofer Specifications

Power handling: 400 watts RMS/700 watts max
VCdia: 2-1/2"
Le: .95 mH
Impedance: 4 ohms
Re: 3.3 ohms
Frequency range: 23 - 1,000 Hz
Fs: 23 Hz
SPL: 89 dB 2.83 V/1m
Vas: 3.00 cu. ft.
Qms: 3.00
Qes: .52
Qts: .44
Xmax: 14mm

Shiva Classic 12" DVC:

Re 2.9 ohms
Le 2.12 mH
Qms 6.5
Mms 124 grams
Qes .40
Cms .47 mm/N
Qts .38
Fs 21 Hz
Sd 481 cm^2
Vas 151 liters
BL 10.9 N/A
Xmax 16.6 mm one way
EBP 51.2
SPL 87.3 dB @ 1W/1m
VC Dia. 2"
Power Rating 650W Total

Like I said earlier. It is the quality more than anything. I am not trying to ruin an amazing speaker for a couple hundred dollars.

Thanks
Mike

[ThomasW]

There's really not much of a contest here, the RS 12" is the better driver.

[kingpin]

There's really not much of a contest here, the RS 12" is the better driver.

Thanks ThomasW.

Would you have a link to information on what all the numbers mean.
Is there some kind of reference that I could look at to try and understand what all the abreviations and their numbers mean.

Mike

[seattle_ice]

A number of reference websites with information is located here.

Most of the specs you see listed are called the Thiele/Small parameters.

[kingpin]

A number of reference websites with information is located here.

Most of the specs you see listed are called the Thiele/Small parameters.

Aw man. They were right under my nose. ops: ops:
Thanks for the quick response.

Mike

[kingpin]

Just for fun. Any comments on this one.

http://www.mach5audio.com/product_info.php?products_id=41&osCsid=568b94e3024bcb4a57207056fcdd796e

Mach5 12" subwoofer
Power Handling: 350 Watts
SPL (2.83v/1m): 88.25 db
Impedence: 4 + 4 Ohm nominal

T/S parameters (with coils wired in series):
Fs = 22.90 Hz
Re = 4.3 Ohms
Qt = 0.38
Qes = 0.43
Qms = 3.34
Mms = 137.13 grams
Rms = 5.904246 kg/s
Cms = 0.000352 m/N
Vas = 83.34 liters
Sd= 410.43 cm2
Bl = 13.97 Tm
ETA = 0.22%
Xmax = 13 mm

[kingpin]

Oh and btw. I read some of the thiele parameters and am trying to understand it.
Anybody can give a crash course on what to look at when reading these values.

Thanks
Mike

[kingpin]

This may be a stupid question but does anybody know if speaker spikes have a weight rating.

I was thinking I may have to go with something like this.

http://www.soundocity.com/Polk_Outriggers.jpg

Although I would probably make them from aluminum or something.

Mike

[seattle_ice]

Just for fun. Any comments on this one.
http://www.mach5audio.com/product_info.php?products_id=41&osCsid=568b94e3024 bcb4a57207056fcdd796e

Mach5 12" subwoofer

There's a thread talking about these HERE

[kingpin]

Thanks Darren. I think until somebody has used them and they are proven performers I may be sticking to the Daytons.

Another question.

What binding posts can work with 1" mdf? I see a whole bunch on PE but they will only fit 3/4"mdf.

Mike

[jonathanb3478]

What binding posts can work with 1" mdf? I see a whole bunch on PE but they will only fit 3/4"mdf.

Well, if you have the right diameter forstner style drill bit, you could make a flat bottomed hole in the the 1" MDF that was just over 1/4" deep. Then the binding post would only have to go through <3/4".

Just a thought. :T