I was given a 1095 to demo from my dealer ,and when everything was connected and the the power turned on the center protection led on the 1095 stays on all the time and i have no sound to the center channel speaker.I double checked all the wiring and connections to the amp and the 1068 and cant see any problems.Everything worked fine until i swapped in the 1095,my previous amp worked great,just wanted to see how the 1095 would sound over the adcom gfa 7000 amp i was using.Is there any fuses that are accessable inside the unit?Or is the channel dead?All the other channels sound fine.
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Is the unit (1095) adequately ventilated? The Protection will enable if it senses high temperatures.
If thats not it, I would double check the speaker cables to ensure they are not shorted.
In the rare case, I read in the manual that highly reactive or extremely low impedence speaker loads could trip the Protection circuts.
Most cases the protection circut is enable due to shorted speaker leads or overheating.
Not sure on the internal fuse. Did you check the removable fuse holder?Bing -
Also would like to add that this was a store demo unit and has been moved around alot latley and god knows what else.Even if they shorted the center channel wire wouldnt that just enable the protection circuit or would it hurt the channel or just blow an internal fuse for that channel.
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The protection circuit comes on immediatley when the unit powers on and its only the center channel light all the other protection led's for the other channels are off and i get good sound from all the other channels but get nothing from the center channel speaker.The speakers are all polk lsi's which are 4 ohm speakers.The center worked and sounded great until the 1095 was installed.I have it installed in an entertainment center with 3 inches of clearence all around it.I wouldnt think it would be a temp problem because the light comes on right away when unit is powered on.I checked the speaker cables going to the center channel and the polarity is correct and not touching anywhere.I think this unit had a problem before i brought it home because i now remember that he said that when they moved into their new location he said they had some problems with shoddy wiring from the previous owners that had the store.It was a private owned tweeter store that went out of business because of many problems.So i would be willing to bet that they fried something,dont know just was wondering if there was something that i could have done or something simple i could check.I guess i will pull that heavvy! sucker out of the rack and install my old amp to see if the problem goes away.Comment
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One way to determine if the problem is caused by an an internal or external compnent is to disconnect the center channel speaker and any other source component one at a time and then verify after each removal if the protection led for the center channel goes away.Last edited by hamlyn; 04 July 2004, 19:01 Sunday.Comment
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Well i decided to remove the top cover and take a look inside of the 1095 and i found a blown fuse ,thank god i just happened to have one from my problems i was having with my adcom after a lightning strike last year,Anyway with the fuse removed and the unit powered on the center channel protection led comes on and with a new fuse in its place it goes off :T Better not get too exited yet.gotta put the beast back in the rack and see if it survives,hope its not any of my equipment causing the problem,lets hope................Comment
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Yep, replacing the fuse fixed the problem.Sounds great! Think i might keep this amp,pairs up nicely with my new 1068.It feeds the surround speakers alot better,notice alot more clarity and dynamics than with the adcom.I think the adcom just wasnt up to the task of driving the lsi's fully.Now if i could just find a 1080 for the mains...........I am using a old carver m4.0t for them right now,sounds pretty good,dont know if the 1080 could match up though,the carver's rated at 500 watts at 4ohms ,but would like to hear how it matched up though.It would look so much better with that rotel stack.Maybe i can just hide the carver somehow........... :W :lol:Comment
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You need a Rotel RB-1090 :-)
Racer4551,
If you want a power match (and more) for your Carver - try the Rotel RB-1090 - its (conservatively) rated at 700W a channel into 4 ohms - and a perfect visual match (same height and look) as the RMB-1095
GeoffComment
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Hello all,
I'm a new ( and happy ) rotel user for over two months now. 1066 + 1095 feeding a pair of b&w n804 as mains, htm1 as centre and 2x705 as rears. To say that I'm enchanted with the system's performance is an understatement !
I found a buzz/hiss problem with the 1095... -
I have a NEW 1095 connected to the Pre-Amp outs of a Sony STR-DA333ES and when I power down the pre-amp the 1095 Front L-R and Rear L-R channel protection circuits activate. The center channel does not. I then have to cycle the power amp on-off-on to reset the protection circuits. The 1095 is conected... -
Hi Guys,
I have a 1098 1095 combo and it seems that my 1095 goes into protection after a couple of hours. The FR & RR channels go into protection mode first and the the LF & LR next. The centre channel is ok but i do not understand why it does this. There us a gap onto of the... -
Hello,
Went to turn on the RMB-1095 the other day and it would not power up. Normal start-up sequence is for the power indicator to light (blue LED) after the power switch is pushed in. Next, all five channel over-current protection indicators light (red LED) and then after a few seconds... -
Hello,
Has anyone changed the fuse in a RB-1095.
I don't get audio coming out of the rear channe, I think one of the fuses is blown. I opened the 1095 and the fuses are buried way in the PCB.
I experienced this with the 1080, It was a blown fuse. The fuses in the RB-1080...
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