Troubleshooting help

[tpl2]

Looking for some help with my Rotel RSX-1057. I purchased this used and was assured all was in working order. I am having two problems and am not sure where the issue is. Hoping someone can help me.

Problem number one:
Sub doesn't get any input. At least I don't think so. It's not making a sound. Other channels are fine. I just tried a new cable and there's no improvement. Hard for me to tell if the Sub is bad or it's not getting a signal. My first thought was to check the set-up settings on the receiver - which led to problem number two. This is why I'm leaning toward a receiver problem over a sub problem.

Problem number two:
I can't access the On Screen Display. The only way I'm aware of is via the remote. I have a RR-1050 that came with my original Rotel RSX-1056. I've read elsewhere that this remote will work with the 1057 and it is almost identical to the remote that came with that unit. My remote does seem to operate all basic functions without any problems. When I turn on the unit or change the volume the OSD information appears on the TV screen. But when I press the Menu/OSD button on the remote I can't access anything on the OSD. So it is impossible to reach the set-up/settings screens. The audible tone (beeb on the remote) sounds when I press the button, so I feel like the remote is working. I put a new set of batteries in the remote without any improvement.

Anyone know what I'm missing. I feel like things are probably OK, but I just have something set up wrong. I am not a true audiophile or HT junkie. But I loved my Rotel/B&W set-up for years. Really want to find the glitch and fix it.

Thanks in advance.

TL

[Kevin D]

Well first, make sure you hit the AUD button before you hit the OSD button, otherwise it will be a different code. The code should be the same. Does the display show anything when you hit the button? I can't remember if they had a MENU icon on the display then or not.

The sub output is probably in the setup. Have you tried using a composite (single yellow) cable to rule out component issues? You're getting the volume changes, so hopefully it's something simple.

Kevin D.

[tpl2]

Well first, make sure you hit the AUD button before you hit the OSD button, otherwise it will be a different code. The code should be the same. Does the display show anything when you hit the button? I can't remember if they had a MENU icon on the display then or not.

The sub output is probably in the setup. Have you tried using a composite (single yellow) cable to rule out component issues? You're getting the volume changes, so hopefully it's something simple.

Kevin D.

Thanks for the help.

I am using a single cable as you suggest. I'll try to check that I'm using the AUD button later today.

TL

[tpl2]

Well first, make sure you hit the AUD button before you hit the OSD button, otherwise it will be a different code. The code should be the same. Does the display show anything when you hit the button? I can't remember if they had a MENU icon on the display then or not.

The sub output is probably in the setup. Have you tried using a composite (single yellow) cable to rule out component issues? You're getting the volume changes, so hopefully it's something simple.

Kevin D.

That was simple genius Kevin.

I did a lot of button punching - in part because it took me a minute to find the (obvious) AUD button. But I am 90% certain that's the thing I was missing. OSD works great. I was able to enter the menu and confirm that the sub channel is turned on - but my sub still is silent.

I have found another issue with the receiver, but in the interest of keeping things simple I'm going to focus just on my sub for now.

Can anyone give me a hand at finding out if my sub is getting a signal or not? I don't have any other source to hook up to my sub with a LFE channel. Would it be safe to hook up a R or L channel RCA pre-out from the receiver to the sub? If I did that and there was no response from the sub, does that identify my sub as the likely source of my problem?

Thanks for any advice.

TL

[Kevin D]

All right.. On the right track at least.. I would first navigate to the speaker setup option in the menu. Are any speakers, especially the fronts set to large? If so, you need to change them to all to small or set the subwoofer to MAX (or perhaps even yes if set to no).

The way the crossover setup works, if the fronts are set to large and the subwoofer is yes, the only bass going to the subwoofer will be from the LFE channel of a Dolby/DTS signal. If the subwoofer setting is set to no, then obviously it's disabled. Setting the subwoofer to MAX sends all bass from any large speakers and the LFE channel to the sub output. A more advanced option for certain situations, but something you can play with.

As for as testing the sub cable and input, you can certainly hook it to one of the front outputs. There will be no harm. You can even hook it directly to the output of a CD player or cable box if you wanted to, just be sure to turn down the volume control on the sub beforehand in that case.

If you do find the speakers set to large, or the sub set to no, it might not be a bad idea to navigate to the default setup screen and perform a factory default on the unit. Without knowing the ins and outs of the Rotel setup, you could be chasing your tail trying to track down bugs because of the previous owners setup.

Kevin D.

[tpl2]

All right.. On the right track at least.. I would first navigate to the speaker setup option in the menu. Are any speakers, especially the fronts set to large? If so, you need to change them to all to small or set the subwoofer to MAX (or perhaps even yes if set to no).

The way the crossover setup works, if the fronts are set to large and the subwoofer is yes, the only bass going to the subwoofer will be from the LFE channel of a Dolby/DTS signal. If the subwoofer setting is set to no, then obviously it's disabled. Setting the subwoofer to MAX sends all bass from any large speakers and the LFE channel to the sub output. A more advanced option for certain situations, but something you can play with.

As for as testing the sub cable and input, you can certainly hook it to one of the front outputs. There will be no harm. You can even hook it directly to the output of a CD player or cable box if you wanted to, just be sure to turn down the volume control on the sub beforehand in that case.

If you do find the speakers set to large, or the sub set to no, it might not be a bad idea to navigate to the default setup screen and perform a factory default on the unit. Without knowing the ins and outs of the Rotel setup, you could be chasing your tail trying to track down bugs because of the previous owners setup.

Kevin D.

Thanks again Kevin. I know this seems like basic stuff, but I appreciate the help very much.

The speakers were labeled "Large" - I reset to "small". Sub was set to "Yes". Crossover for the sub was/is 60hz, for the other speakers its set at 100hz. Sub still silent at that point. I moved the cable from the sub output on the receiver to the L front pre-out on the receiver. No improvement.

Reset to default factory settings (which, it turns out didn't change the specified settings I listed above) - still silent.

It seems to me like these things make it more likely that the receiver is sending a signal, but the sub isn't responding. Interestingly, the sub has an auto/standby setting so it comes on when it receives an audio signal from the receiver. There is an LED that should change from red to green when this happens. In the Auto mode this LED always stays red. Which made me think the sub was never getting a signal. Obviously the problem could be in the sub and that would still happen, but I hoped that was less likely.

Would appreciate any other advice.

TL

[tpl2]

I did a little more playing around. I went to the test tones screen. I get a tone through the RF, C, and LF channels. Sub is silent.

[madmac]

I did a little more playing around. I went to the test tones screen. I get a tone through the RF, C, and LF channels. Sub is silent.

At this point, there is a good chance your sub is busted. Are you able to connect 'hot' speaker wires to it on the back? If so, try that to see if it comes on. If it still doesn't......It's broken.

[tpl2]

I appreciate the help. I'm not 100% sure what you mean by a "hot" speaker wire. Are you saying one of the R or L front channel wires from the receiver on the amplified side - not the pre-outs?

Thanks

TL

[Kevin D]

Thanks again Kevin. I know this seems like basic stuff, but I appreciate the help very much.
It seems to me like these things make it more likely that the receiver is sending a signal, but the sub isn't responding. Interestingly, the sub has an auto/standby setting so it comes on when it receives an audio signal from the receiver. There is an LED that should change from red to green when this happens. In the Auto mode this LED always stays red. Which made me think the sub was never getting a signal. Obviously the problem could be in the sub and that would still happen, but I hoped that was less likely.

Would appreciate any other advice.

TL

So with the cable plugged into the sub out or even the F/L out, the light never changes from red? And the only options on your sub are AUTO/STANDBY(off)? What model sub are we dealing with? I wouldn't mind looking up the manual.

Most subs should turn on from even just plugging in the cable. Usually you can grab the end that connects to the receiver and touch your finger to both sides (long tip and wide barrel) and make a hum/noise.

Was the sub working fine with the 1056 you had, or has it been a while/different sub? Dan is suggesting that if there is something wrong with the RCA input on the sub, you may be able to use the speaker level outputs if your subwoofer supports them (again, get me the model and I can better tell you what to test).

While on that subject, a lot of subs have inputs and outputs. Are you sure you are plugged into the input of the sub? Along the same lines, the Rotel will have a set of multi-channel inputs in addition to the outputs, are you sure you are plugged into the outputs on the Rotel? Seems basic, but you don't realize how many subs and cables I've troubleshoot because for some reason I couldn't tell the difference between IN and OUT that day!

Kevin D.

[tpl2]

So with the cable plugged into the sub out or even the F/L out, the light never changes from red? And the only options on your sub are AUTO/STANDBY(off)? What model sub are we dealing with? I wouldn't mind looking up the manual.

Most subs should turn on from even just plugging in the cable. Usually you can grab the end that connects to the receiver and touch your finger to both sides (long tip and wide barrel) and make a hum/noise.

Was the sub working fine with the 1056 you had, or has it been a while/different sub? Dan is suggesting that if there is something wrong with the RCA input on the sub, you may be able to use the speaker level outputs if your subwoofer supports them (again, get me the model and I can better tell you what to test).

While on that subject, a lot of subs have inputs and outputs. Are you sure you are plugged into the input of the sub? Along the same lines, the Rotel will have a set of multi-channel inputs in addition to the outputs, are you sure you are plugged into the outputs on the Rotel? Seems basic, but you don't realize how many subs and cables I've troubleshoot because for some reason I couldn't tell the difference between IN and OUT that day!

Kevin D.

My Sub is a Hsu STF-3 circa 2004ish. Worked fine with the 1056 I had, but hasn't been hooked up for a few months.

The Sub has a 3 position power switch: OFF/Auto/On I suspect that's self explanatory. It never makes a sound regardless of whether I have it on Auto or On. When I turn it to ON the LED turns green. When it is on Auto the LED turns red. In the past (when it worked) the LED would stay red until I turned on the receiver and it would send a signal to the sub - then it would turn green and work fine. Now the sub is silent and the LED never turns green. (which I took as a clue that the sub never got any input from the receiver - but I know that's not necessarily true)

Regarding inputs: I realize it's possible to screw this up. But I'm 99% sure it's the correct sub output (Sub1) from the Rotel and it is the only RCA type input on the sub. The sub does have larger (speaker cable type) inputs. The Rotel doesn't have that type of output for the sub. But obviously does have them for the other channels.

I tried calling Hsu today. Closed because of the holiday.

I hope I was clear with all that. If not let me know.

[Kevin D]

With the sub set to on, Try plugging the sub cable into a cd player or cable box, or even touching the end of the cable. You should get some noise.

Kevin D.

[tpl2]

With the sub set to on, Try plugging the sub cable into a cd player or cable box, or even touching the end of the cable. You should get some noise.

Kevin D.

Interesting....

If it touch the tip of the cable, I get a low hum from the sub. If I plug it into my cable box, I get some noise as well.

I think I'm more confused now.

Just realized I lied about the number of RCA inputs to the sub. There are 2. L & R. No difference which one it's plugged into.

Thanks for the continued help. I'm hoping this tells us something, but I'm not sure what.

[Kevin D]

Well you've proven now that the cable and sub are fine.

Please double-check that all speakers are set to small and sub to yes. Then double check you are on the sub out (there's two, sub 1/sub 2 on the far right by the speaker leads).

If that checks out, then it seems you might have a bad Rotel output board, and hence why speakers were set to Large to begin with.

Hold down mute on the front of the unit and tell me what software version you are running. There may have been a known issues in certain versions under certain setups.

Kevin D.

[tpl2]

Well you've proven now that the cable and sub are fine.

Please double-check that all speakers are set to small and sub to yes. Then double check you are on the sub out (there's two, sub 1/sub 2 on the far right by the speaker leads).

If that checks out, then it seems you might have a bad Rotel output board, and hence why speakers were set to Large to begin with.

Hold down mute on the front of the unit and tell me what software version you are running. There may have been a known issues in certain versions under certain setups.

Kevin D.

All speakers are small. Sub is yes. Sub is in preout sub1 or sub2

Cable box seems to work.

Rotel doesn't work

Software: V2,1,0-061031

[Kevin D]

That's the original shipping version, but I don't see where anything would have been updated that would effect the outputs.

Best bet if you don't wish to pursue returning the 1057 is to set the fronts back to large and sub to no, then hook you sub up to the front speaker outputs (with speaker wire). You can double up on the Rotel outputs for now (one set goes to front speakers, second set goes to subwoofer inputs). Eventually you would probably want to use the crossover in the sub. In that case you would run speaker wires from the Rotel to the subwoofer inputs and then hook your front speakers to the subwoofer's speaker outputs and adjust teh crossover.

This would be method B on page 4 of your subwoofer manual: http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/stf.pdf

Kevin D.

[tpl2]

That's the original shipping version, but I don't see where anything would have been updated that would effect the outputs.

Best bet if you don't wish to pursue returning the 1057 is to set the fronts back to large and sub to no, then hook you sub up to the front speaker outputs (with speaker wire). You can double up on the Rotel outputs for now (one set goes to front speakers, second set goes to subwoofer inputs). Eventually you would probably want to use the crossover in the sub. In that case you would run speaker wires from the Rotel to the subwoofer inputs and then hook your front speakers to the subwoofer's speaker outputs and adjust teh crossover.

This would be method B on page 4 of your subwoofer manual: http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/stf.pdf

Kevin D.

I continue to appreciate your help.

I'm leaning toward returning the 1057. But want to try to see if I can make it all work.

I am discouraged at this point. Because of the speaker wire I have available to me right now, I have basically run the first set-up you describe. The easiest thing was to run wires from the posts on my L/R fronts to the sub. I think that should be the same as splitting the wires as they leave the rotel.

Nothing. Not a sound when hooked up to the sub that way...

I don't understand why that would be.

[Kevin D]

The way you ran the wires will be the same. Did the green light even come on or have you tried with the power switch to on? Make sure the volume and crossover are turned all the way up for testing.

Curious how far up the volume on the sub was when you tried hooking to the cable output. You stated you got some noise, but it should be able to get loud if you have the volume cranked. Still not sure you don't have a sub problem. You can try again with the cable box on a music channel and adjust the sub volume. Make sure it can get loud and actually produce nice clean sound.

It may be a situation where the amp will produce something given a loud input (direct from cable or touching tip), but nothing under normal circumstances.

Kevin D.

[tpl2]

The way you ran the wires will be the same. Did the green light even come on or have you tried with the power switch to on? Make sure the volume and crossover are turned all the way up for testing.

Curious how far up the volume on the sub was when you tried hooking to the cable output. You stated you got some noise, but it should be able to get loud if you have the volume cranked. Still not sure you don't have a sub problem. You can try again with the cable box on a music channel and adjust the sub volume. Make sure it can get loud and actually produce nice clean sound.

It may be a situation where the amp will produce something given a loud input (direct from cable or touching tip), but nothing under normal circumstances.

Kevin D.

Thanks for helping me continue to chase this.

The green LED did NOT come on when I had it on auto. When I turned the sub to On, it still didn't work.

The volume was mid range. I probably had the crossover at about 60 or so, didn't think to change that. I did try it with music and stuff that should have had some Low end. Gently touched the cone to make sure it wasn't vibrating at all - nothing.

When I had it hooked up to my cable box, you could tell it was the low end of what was playing. It seemed like that was working pretty well - it wasn't just a quiet hum. It was loud.

I work late tomorrow and probably won't be able to spend a lot of time with it. But I'm going to keep chasing it through the weekend. Way at the beginning I mentioned another issue. I'm gonna throw it out there just to make sure there's not connection.

The 1057 has HDMI inputs. Neither of mine seem to work. When I hooked the TV up to HDMI 1 or 2, nothing. When I used the optical input it was fine. I assumed that when I got to the menu I could select the HDMI port. But when I got to video 1 or 2 and set them up - there is no way to select HDMI. It give a few options, analog, optical,... but HDMI isn't one of them. At first I thought the HDMI ports weren't working. But that shouldn't keep them from showing up on the menu, right?

Thanks again.

TL

[madmac]

I continue to appreciate your help.

I'm leaning toward returning the 1057. But want to try to see if I can make it all work.

I am discouraged at this point. Because of the speaker wire I have available to me right now, I have basically run the first set-up you describe. The easiest thing was to run wires from the posts on my L/R fronts to the sub. I think that should be the same as splitting the wires as they leave the rotel.

Nothing. Not a sound when hooked up to the sub that way...

I don't understand why that would be.

If you've hooked up 'hot' speaker wires to the back of your sub with no results then your sub is defective. It's as simple as that. There's nothing wrong with the Rotel. Until you can afford another sub, just run your speakers as 'Large' until you get another one.

[Kevin D]

The 1057 basically has a 2x1 HDMI switch inside of it. The HDMI plugs are in no way tied to the audio or on-screen display circuits. So when selecting video 1 or 2, it will pass the hdmi signal through, but you still need to have an audio cable (analog/digital) hooked up and you still need a composite cable or component cable to see the on-screen display. The 1057 is pretty much a 1056 with an HDMI switch. The 1058 is the first unit that supported HDMI audio.

Kevin D.

[tpl2]

If you've hooked up 'hot' speaker wires to the back of your sub with no results then your sub is defective. It's as simple as that. There's nothing wrong with the Rotel. Until you can afford another sub, just run your speakers as 'Large' until you get another one.

I guess that's the short and sweet of it. I think Hsu will repair/replace the amp in my sub without me having to send the whole thing in. I may look into that.

TL

[tpl2]

The 1057 basically has a 2x1 HDMI switch inside of it. The HDMI plugs are in no way tied to the audio or on-screen display circuits. So when selecting video 1 or 2, it will pass the hdmi signal through, but you still need to have an audio cable (analog/digital) hooked up and you still need a composite cable or component cable to see the on-screen display. The 1057 is pretty much a 1056 with an HDMI switch. The 1058 is the first unit that supported HDMI audio.

Kevin D.

That makes sense. I think you are telling me the audio info isn't carried on the HDMI on this model, so you still need another input (my optical cable) for that.

Thanks

TL

[tpl2]

Just putting a bow on this.

I contacted Hsu about may issues. They eventually agreed that the amp in the sub was the likely culprit. I purchased a replacement and things seem to be resolved.

It confused me that the sub would respond fairly loudly when plugged into my cable box L or R audio output, but not at all from the Rotel. But the differences between the signals from the cable box and the sub output from the Rotel explain that. The problem was indeed the sub.

Thanks for help with running the traps.