Is the JC-1 difficult to "convert" from 110V to 220V suply? Does it require replacement of any component? I'm thinking of buying a set second hand in the US, and bring them to Europe.
110/220v
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You need a new fuse (American style 1/4'x1 1/4' 6A slow-blow) and you also need a Metric M4 screw (10-12mm long).
The changes needed are:
1) Replace the fuse on the back panel
2) Move a jumper for the standby transformer to configure it for 230V THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!
3) Connect the primary windings of the main transformer in series instead of in parallell. (The M4 screw is needed for the unused terminal block that will hold the join of the two windings coupled in series).
WARNING #1: Do not forget to move the jumper!!! (I heard that someone did this and it resulted in smoke and fire. Probably the PCB and/or transformer were burnt. You will definitely damage the unit!)
WARNING #2: Do not blindly trust the color coding of the wiring. I recommend using an ohm-meter to check this. However, a mistake here will not result in damage, assuming that the correct terminals are used. If the windings are incorrectly connected, the unit will simply appear dead (will not start up from standby).
Peter- Bottom
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Aubi,
You should also be aware that there is a problem with the factory JC-1 packaging boxes. You need to tell whoever is shipping them that both the inner and outer boxes need to be strapped with professional strapping tape.
The factory only straps the outer box, which results in that the amp can move inside the box. Out of my 10 amps, 4 had moved inside the inner box to the point that the inner box had marks from the rear handles of the amp. One of the amps was damaged and had a bashed-in rear panel! Jesse (another JC1 owner) recently told me that one of his new amps also suffered in shipping, so this *is* obviously a problem.
So, make sure the packaging is in good condition and that the inner box is TIGHTLY strapped so that the amplifier can't move around inside the box. The original straps should NOT be re-used. New strapping is a must for safe shipping! For international shipments, I also recommend that the boxes are wrapped in plastic wrap.
Peter- Bottom
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Hey Aubi,
Peter knows what he is talking about.
He did the voltage conversion on my A51 and A21 and shipped them to me in Australia doubled box using FedEx.
They are both performing flawlessly and I love them to pieces.
Thanks again Peter,
Cheers Andrew...- Bottom
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Originally posted by Peter NielsenYou need a new fuse (American style 1/4'x1 1/4' 6A slow-blow) and you also need a Metric M4 screw (10-12mm long).
The changes needed are:
1) Replace the fuse on the back panel
2) Move a jumper for the standby transformer to configure it for 230V THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!
3) Connect the primary windings of the main transformer in series instead of in parallell. (The M4 screw is needed for the unused terminal block that will hold the join of the two windings coupled in series).
WARNING #1: Do not forget to move the jumper!!! (I heard that someone did this and it resulted in smoke and fire. Probably the PCB and/or transformer were burnt. You will definitely damage the unit!)
WARNING #2: Do not blindly trust the color coding of the wiring. I recommend using an ohm-meter to check this. However, a mistake here will not result in damage, assuming that the correct terminals are used. If the windings are incorrectly connected, the unit will simply appear dead (will not start up from standby).
Peter
Is there only one jumper ? or several and if so which one.
Which values are you looking for with the ohm meter ?
I guess that it will be pretty straight forward when you have the unit in front of you but I am still in the prosess of buying a set.
It would be great if someone could take a picture/closeup of the transformer and primary windings.
The Parasound agent here will not thouch any unit not sold by them,I guess that it is just an effort to keep up the high retail price.
A set of JC1 will be 13000 USD the A21,A52 will set you back 4200 USD each..
Best regards
Espen- Bottom
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Originally posted by LoffenIs there only one jumper ? or several and if so which one.
Originally posted by LoffenWhich values are you looking for with the ohm meter ?
Originally posted by LoffenIt would be great if someone could take a picture/closeup of the transformer and primary windings.
You need a M4x10mm screw for the 3rd terminal where you join the two windings. Also remember to replace the 12A fuse on the rear panel with a 6A fuse.
Peter- Bottom
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Hey, Aubi! (sounds like the alleys of Turkey... they call out to you with that phrase all the time) Never did welcome you to the Guide and Club Parasound. :banana: Welcome!CHRIS
Well, we're safe for now. Thank goodness we're in a bowling alley.
- Pleasantville- Bottom
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And I would allso like to thank Jesse and Peter (again) my JC1's are now on the way over the pond wired for 230v :T
I will also have a Zcustom ZHD soon so I guess my setup is near complete 8O
Here are the components :
Parasound :C2,D3,T3,A21,A52(JC1,ZHD),JBL: Ti10k,Ti6k,Ti2k,Tik Center,2 x Tik Subs,Nevo SL,Pioneer PDP 428xd (soon to be LX508d) and a Infocus 7210 (trying to find a good 1080p unit) Cables are mostly Kimber with the Trifocal XL on top.
Sorry for the bad picture of my rack, the JC1's will be on each side on the top shelf and the A21 in the middle,I do not know where I will put the center speaker yet ops:
And thanks to all for the good help on this forum.- Bottom
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Seems there's a few Norwegians in the 'club', I'm in Oslo ( for my sins )...
Espen.. you scare me when you say 'The Parasound agent here will not touch any unit not sold by them'... do you mean NCMS at Høvik???- Bottom
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Originally posted by colinjohnsonSeems there's a few Norwegians in the 'club', I'm in Oslo ( for my sins )...
Espen.. you scare me when you say 'The Parasound agent here will not touch any unit not sold by them'... do you mean NCMS at Høvik???- Bottom
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Thanks Chris
Hamtor,
I guess the question of availability of spare parts must be asked... How do you get spares... say an amp module blows.. scary thought..will NCMS get involved then???? Has anyone first hand experience of dealing with them?- Bottom
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And I thought I was the only one taking risks with money
I hope you don't have bricks.....I hope you have beautiful amps that make beautiful sounds.
Where did you buy from?? I would like to know more about who in the US will send Parasound to Europe.- Bottom
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Why don't you rather buy my set of P1. I know you are an Arcamist .
The JC-1 set is bought at Audiogon, from a nice guy in Canada. The price ends up far below half the retail price in Norway, and besides that I was fed up waiting for a second hand set to show up locally.- Bottom
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Originally posted by colinjohnsonThanks Chris
Hamtor,
I guess the question of availability of spare parts must be asked... How do you get spares... say an amp module blows.. scary thought..will NCMS get involved then???? Has anyone first hand experience of dealing with them?- Bottom
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Aubi,
Arcamist... good one..
I love their CD36 and the DV139 is pretty good.. But I'm not too struck on their amps. The sound is too shallow. I'll soon be selling my P90/3 but I'll keep my AVR300 as a preamp. Are you the one selling the P1s of Avforum.no? I've never heard the P1 but if it's only got 2 pairs of output devices like the P7 then I don't think it can be much good. Perhaps you've had the lid off.. perhaps you can tell me if the P1 really is only 2 pairs of Sanken SAP15N / P.
I'm a little scared about things Parasound going bang though.. You say it's all part of the thrill.. strange way of getting your kicks. :W
Hamtor,
What did you end up doing with a blown JC1? Did you fix it yourself? Or did you send it back for repair?- Bottom
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Originally posted by colinjohnson
Hamtor,
What did you end up doing with a blown JC1? Did you fix it yourself? Or did you send it back for repair?
Norway. But I am working on it.- Bottom
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Hamtor, have you got schematics? I'm wondering if I could get the schematics for the A51 from anywhere.... I'd feel a lot happier if I had those. At least I'd stand a chance of fixing it if it does blow....
p.s. Good luck getting those transistors. Any ideas how close the beta matching needs to be?- Bottom
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Originally posted by colinjohnsonAubi,
Arcamist... good one..
I love their CD36 and the DV139 is pretty good.. But I'm not too struck on their amps. The sound is too shallow. I'll soon be selling my P90/3 but I'll keep my AVR300 as a preamp. Are you the one selling the P1s of Avforum.no? I've never heard the P1 but if it's only got 2 pairs of output devices like the P7 then I don't think it can be much good. Perhaps you've had the lid off.. perhaps you can tell me if the P1 really is only 2 pairs of Sanken SAP15N / P.- Bottom
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Originally posted by colinjohnsonHamtor, have you got schematics? I'm wondering if I could get the schematics for the A51 from anywhere.... I'd feel a lot happier if I had those. At least I'd stand a chance of fixing it if it does blow....
p.s. Good luck getting those transistors. Any ideas how close the beta matching needs to be?- Bottom
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Small problem . One amp haven't got a bright blue indicator light at the on/off button when it's on. Only a week red red light, but it's playing like nothing has happened. Normaly this indicates that the protection circuits have activated, but it seems to me that this is only a blown diode. Am i wrong?
No surprise really, since the outer boxes looked like they had been trough several eartquakes, and both amps had mooved inside the boxes- Bottom
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Aubi,
Looks like you could use Hamtors schematics...
Hamtor,
Where did you get the JC1 schematics? I could try to get the A51 from the same source.- Bottom
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Aubi.. Thanks for the pics... As I suspected.. the P1 has only 2 pairs of output transistors... The JC1 has how many.. .9 :T ..... that's why it will be so much better- Bottom
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The P1 was once the amp of my dreams, and I still think it's a good amp. It can't compare to the one I've got now, but then I suppose not many others can. Especially when it comes to heating. My living room does not need mutch more heating after this, and that's in low bias.- Bottom
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Originally posted by colinjohnsonAubi,
Looks like you could use Hamtors schematics...
Hamtor,
Where did you get the JC1 schematics? I could try to get the A51 from the same source.
get in contact with him for months without any luck.- Bottom
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Originally posted by AubiI'm a bit confused now. It's mine amps that is on their way over the pond at the moment. h:
Besides that, does anyone know who the woman in the picture is. It's red Kristin. The norwegian minister of finances. 8O
She is one of the reasons why the Norwegians here is so keen on importing stuff 8O- Bottom
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Originally posted by colinjohnsonSeems there's a few Norwegians in the 'club', I'm in Oslo ( for my sins )...
Espen.. you scare me when you say 'The Parasound agent here will not touch any unit not sold by them'... do you mean NCMS at Høvik???- Bottom
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Originally posted by AubiI'm playing :T
The conversion was easy, and seems to be successful since there have been no smoke and fire so far, youst wonderfull sound.
Usually no smoke and fire with the Parasound,but I used to have a HK receiver once.... :lol:- Bottom
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