Mark's Statements to Statement IIs Build Thread

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  • mlammert
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2007
    • 373

    Mark's Statements to Statement IIs Build Thread

    In 2008, I can't believe it has been that long, I took the long and rewarding journey of building a very modified set of Statements.

    DIY (Do it yourself): Cabinetry, speakers, subwoofers, crossovers, measurements. Jon and Thomas have probably designed and built as many speakers as any non-professionals. Who are we kidding? They are pros, they just don't do it for a living. This has got to be one of the most advanced places on the net to talk speaker building, period.


    After much research and contemplation, I have decided to upgrade my Statements to Statement IIs and build new cabinets for them. And, this time, stick to a more pure form factor of what Curt and Jim envisioned.

    A few reasons behind my thinking:

    1) My skills have greatly improved over the past 13 years.

    2) Although my wife was very supportive of the original endeavor, the WAF has decreased over the years.

    3) The modified cabinets I built are, simply put, massive. Too massive. See Forum above.

    4) The finishes I chose the first time around have grown tiresome to me and I want a way to be able to more easily change this in the future.

    5) I thought about building a whole new different speaker kit. But, after much research, everyone seems to agree that the Statements are what to strive for. So why change a good thing.

    In my next post I will show my SketchUp model and I do have some questions.

    Thanks everyone!
    Last edited by theSven; 21 February 2023, 23:10 Tuesday. Reason: Updated URL for htguide
  • mlammert
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2007
    • 373

    #2
    As I stated in my initial post, I want to make the cabinets for my Statement IIs as true to Curt and Jim's vision as possible. So, I am pretty much going to follow their CAD files to the letter, except for a few minor details.

    Here are my SketchUp models so far:

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    Here you can see the front of the speakers.

    I searched and searched and searched for inspiration from all sorts of high-end speaker manufacturers. Yes, there are some amazing looking speakers out there. But, in the end, I found a simple white box with a wood baffle photo and it spoke to me.

    The cabinets will be constructed from MDF per Curt and Jim's design. The front baffles will be solid hardwood. The bases and feet risers will be solid hardwood as well. I have not decided on a species of wood yet.

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    Back of the speakers are pretty typical, again, per Curt and Jim's design. I did stumble across a post from Jim where he said he cut out a 5 inch wide gap in the bottom three layers of the base to allow the port to breath better. So, this is reflected in the 3D model as well.

    Click image for larger version

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    Close up of the front baffle meeting the cabinet shows a 3/16" rabbet relief that will be routed on the hardwood baffle. I simply like the look and feel of the rabbet and this will be a good transition from hardwood to the MDF cabinets. My original speakers used a 45 degree chamfer. This time, I am going with a true 3/4 inch round over as described by Curt and Jim.

    I do have a few questions at this point that I am hoping to get some advice on before I start cutting wood.

    1) I want to make the front baffles and bases removable so that I could theoretically stain them a different color or rebuild in the future. Making the bases removable is pretty straightforward. However, I have read many articles on making the front baffles removable. Does anybody has any opinions on this? I am thinking maybe 4 "bolts" down each side that will secure to some brackets on the inside of the cabinet and then use some appropriate speaker gasket tape around the perimeter?

    2) The down firing ports. I have read so many articles on port flares and length and I am more confused than ever now. If the Statement IIs call for a 4 inch long port, does that mean flared cap to flared cap should be 4 inches long? Does that mean the tube should be 4 inches long and then the flare caps attached? Does it mean I have to do some higher level math and figure out some other actual final length? Any advice is appreciated.

    3) As I mentioned above, I read that Jim recommends cutting a 5 inch channel in the bottom 3 layers of the base to allow the port to breath. This was a very casual mention that I just stumbled upon. Does my interpretation of this comment look correct? The top 3/4" layer does not have the channel. The next three 3/4" layers do have the channel cut in them.

    If anybody has any other comments/critiques/suggestions/gotchas, I am open to all and much appreciate the conversation.

    Thank you!
    Last edited by theSven; 21 February 2023, 23:10 Tuesday. Reason: Updated URL for htguide

    Comment

    • Jim Holtz
      Ultra Senior Member
      • Mar 2005
      • 3223

      #3
      Originally posted by mlammert
      As I stated in my initial post, I want to make the cabinets for my Statement IIs as true to Curt and Jim's vision as possible. So, I am pretty much going to follow their CAD files to the letter, except for a few minor details.

      Here are my SketchUp models so far:



      H
      1) I want to make the front baffles and bases removable so that I could theoretically stain them a different color or rebuild in the future. Making the bases removable is pretty straightforward. However, I have read many articles on making the front baffles removable. Does anybody has any opinions on this? I am thinking maybe 4 "bolts" down each side that will secure to some brackets on the inside of the cabinet and then use some appropriate speaker gasket tape around the perimeter?

      2) The down firing ports. I have read so many articles on port flares and length and I am more confused than ever now. If the Statement IIs call for a 4 inch long port, does that mean flared cap to flared cap should be 4 inches long? Does that mean the tube should be 4 inches long and then the flare caps attached? Does it mean I have to do some higher level math and figure out some other actual final length? Any advice is appreciated.

      3) As I mentioned above, I read that Jim recommends cutting a 5 inch channel in the bottom 3 layers of the base to allow the port to breath. This was a very casual mention that I just stumbled upon. Does my interpretation of this comment look correct? The top 3/4" layer does not have the channel. The next three 3/4" layers do have the channel cut in them.

      If anybody has any other comments/critiques/suggestions/gotchas, I am open to all and much appreciate the conversation.

      Thank you!

      1. I don't have an opinion on a removable front baffle. It should work fine from what I can see.

      2. The port tube is 4" plus the inner and outer flares. This is based in 3" Precision Ports and you can down or rear fire them with no changes.

      3. You've got the base plate rear channel exactly as I did it. The reason being, with deep carpet even tall spikes didn't provide as much breathing room as I wanted.

      Keep posting! I'm enjoying you build.

      Jim
      Last edited by theSven; 17 March 2023, 22:03 Friday. Reason: Update image location

      Comment

      • mlammert
        Senior Member
        • Dec 2007
        • 373

        #4
        Thanks so much for the reply and info, Jim. Greatly appreciated.

        The port tube is 4" plus the inner and outer flares.
        Sounds good. I will cut the included tube to be 4" in length and then snap the inner and outer flares onto the 4" tube. Thank you for confirming that.

        This is based in 3" Precision Ports and you can down or rear fire them with no changes.
        Just curious and trying to learn. What (if any) is the advantage of the down firing port? I have always been curious as to your reason(s) for doing the down firing versus rear firing. It would seem rear firing would be "easier" to accomplish; considering less wood cutting and needing to be elevated off the floor.

        You've got the base plate rear channel exactly as I did it. The reason being, with deep carpet even tall spikes didn't provide as much breathing room as I wanted.
        Yep, my little corner blocks/feet will be 2" tall. I *might* be able to talk my uncle into helping me fabricate some custom metal outrigger feet on his metal lathe. But, we will see.

        Thank again!

        Comment

        • Jim Holtz
          Ultra Senior Member
          • Mar 2005
          • 3223

          #5
          Originally posted by mlammert
          Thanks so much for the reply and info, Jim. Greatly appreciated.



          Sounds good. I will cut the included tube to be 4" in length and then snap the inner and outer flares onto the 4" tube. Thank you for confirming that.



          Just curious and trying to learn. What (if any) is the advantage of the down firing port? I have always been curious as to your reason(s) for doing the down firing versus rear firing. It would seem rear firing would be "easier" to accomplish; considering less wood cutting and needing to be elevated off the floor.



          Yep, my little corner blocks/feet will be 2" tall. I *might* be able to talk my uncle into helping me fabricate some custom metal outrigger feet on his metal lathe. But, we will see.

          Thank again!
          Excellent question, why a down firing port? LOL, I hate to give this answer but is because i could and I thought it looked nicer. Yes, a rear firing port is much easier and there are no performance differences.

          Jim

          Comment

          • mlammert
            Senior Member
            • Dec 2007
            • 373

            #6
            Thanks, Jim.

            Ha ha. I have done plenty of things because I thought it "looked nicer." Ha ha.

            Hmm...

            Now you have me thinking. Decisions. Decisions.

            If I were to do a rear firing port, how far above the bottom of the cabinet floor would you recommend I cut the hole for it?

            Maybe just center it between the bottom and the shelf brace?

            Thanks for everything!

            Comment

            • Jim Holtz
              Ultra Senior Member
              • Mar 2005
              • 3223

              #7
              Originally posted by mlammert
              Thanks, Jim.

              Ha ha. I have done plenty of things because I thought it "looked nicer." Ha ha.

              Hmm...

              Now you have me thinking. Decisions. Decisions.

              If I were to do a rear firing port, how far above the bottom of the cabinet floor would you recommend I cut the hole for it?

              Maybe just center it between the bottom and the shelf brace?

              Thanks for everything!
              I don't have a port here to measure but I think the outer flare is around 5" so move it up from the floor about an inch ot two. I wouldn't move it up high near the woofers. just make sure you have a clear path from the inner flare to the woofers.

              HTH

              Jim

              Comment

              • mlammert
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2007
                • 373

                #8
                Originally posted by Jim Holtz
                I think the outer flare is around 5" so move it up from the floor about an inch or two.
                Yep. You are correct, it is a 5 1/4 inch cutout. So, if my math is correct, the area between the floor and the shelf brace is approx 9 inches tall. So, moving it up about 1 3/4 - 2 inches will pretty much put the port vertically centered in the area between the floor and the shelf brace. Nice.

                Now just to decide if I want to do a down firing or rear firing port.

                Thanks!

                Comment

                • mlammert
                  Senior Member
                  • Dec 2007
                  • 373

                  #9
                  So, life got in the way and delayed the start of my project.

                  Ready to jump in head first now, and the upgrade kit is back-ordered.

                  My question is, it appears (to my very untrained eye) that Peerless/Vifa/Tymphany are the same? Is this correct?

                  If so, I can order the Peerless by Tymphany NE123W-08 from Parts Express.

                  Would this be a drop in replacement to the Vifa NE123W-08 that seems to be back-ordered everywhere?

                  If I cannot, maybe I will just start building the new cabinets and hold off on ordering the parts.

                  Thanks!

                  Comment

                  • Jim Holtz
                    Ultra Senior Member
                    • Mar 2005
                    • 3223

                    #10
                    Originally posted by mlammert
                    So, life got in the way and delayed the start of my project.

                    Ready to jump in head first now, and the upgrade kit is back-ordered.

                    My question is, it appears (to my very untrained eye) that Peerless/Vifa/Tymphany are the same? Is this correct?

                    If so, I can order the Peerless by Tymphany NE123W-08 from Parts Express.

                    Would this be a drop in replacement to the Vifa NE123W-08 that seems to be back-ordered everywhere?

                    If I cannot, maybe I will just start building the new cabinets and hold off on ordering the parts.

                    Thanks!
                    Hi Mark,

                    My understanding is, Tymphany (parent company) couldn't make up their mind which sub company to to have the NE drivers a part of. They are the same drivers, just a different label. I think you'll like them a lot.

                    HTH

                    Jim

                    Comment

                    • mlammert
                      Senior Member
                      • Dec 2007
                      • 373

                      #11
                      Thanks as always for the quick reply, Jim.

                      They are the same drivers, just a different label.
                      Sorry, if this is a dumb follow-up question, but I assume since the drivers are the same just a different label, that no changes to the new crossovers will be necessary.

                      They are literally the exact same except for the label.

                      Thanks again!

                      Comment

                      • Jim Holtz
                        Ultra Senior Member
                        • Mar 2005
                        • 3223

                        #12
                        Originally posted by mlammert
                        Thanks as always for the quick reply, Jim.



                        Sorry, if this is a dumb follow-up question, but I assume since the drivers are the same just a different label, that no changes to the new crossovers will be necessary.

                        They are literally the exact same except for the label.

                        Thanks again!
                        They are all the same driver. No crossover changes required.

                        Jim

                        Comment

                        • mlammert
                          Senior Member
                          • Dec 2007
                          • 373

                          #13
                          Thank you!

                          Comment

                          • mlammert
                            Senior Member
                            • Dec 2007
                            • 373

                            #14
                            So, after a couple life set backs (not really - dog passing, getting new dog, getting new job, etc), I have the MDF (wow - the cost) and I am almost ready to start cutting.

                            As I mentioned earlier, I want to make the front baffles removable. They are going to be some species of hardwood. So, I not only want to not glue them to the MDF. I also want to be able to switch them out for when my tastes change and not have re-build the entire cabinets again.

                            Right now, I am thinking of including a "lip" around the front of the cabinets and using some nice looking fastener to bolt them to the cabinets.

                            I have ready numerous articles and threads on removable front baffles, but they all seem to be for smaller book shelf type speakers.

                            Jim gave his thumbs up on the removable baffles. But, I am just trying to get some ideas/opinions on the execution:

                            1 - How many / what spacing of bolts would be recommended for the Statement IIs being 11.5" wide and 55" tall?

                            2 - Should I be concerned with bolting the front baffles only around the perimeter, seeing as they also have the mid tunnels that need to be sealed as well?

                            3 - I assume a ~1" lip of 3/4" MDF around the front perimeter of the cabinets will not throw off the internal volume enough to make any difference?

                            Thanks everyone!

                            BTW here are some renderings of the final design:

                            Going for a more European look and feel. But, since everything will be removable, I can change almost anything relatively easily.

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                            Last edited by theSven; 21 February 2023, 23:11 Tuesday. Reason: Updated URL for htguide

                            Comment

                            • Mikerodrig27
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2015
                              • 160

                              #15
                              I would think a small gap around the perimeter of the front baffle would act as a nice detail. I suspect window seal material with adhesive on one side would work well. Put it between the front baffle and the box (I assume your 1" MDF?)

                              black allen screws recessed landing on a little washer so it doesn't dig into the wood. Wood screw thread should work as taking the baffles off shouldn't be a normal event. You could always add more screws but I think that a rubberized seal will dampen the cabinets. Maybe try every 12". You can add more where it fails the tap test.

                              I am sure you have put far more thought into it than what I mentioned above. Are you concerned that Jim and Curt are going to eventually redesign the Statements?

                              Comment

                              • Steve Manning
                                Moderator
                                • Dec 2006
                                • 1900

                                #16
                                I can't give you an exact number of bolts needed, your biggest concern is compressing the gasket you intend on using. Gaskets work best with an even pressure across the surface, they don't need to be crushed. There are a number of ways to attach the baffle without having to bolt it from the front as well. Take a look at Sven's builds of the Calliope's and the Ardent D's for one method. The fact that you have large driver holes where you can reach inside of the cabinet makes things a lot easier. Also take a look at Magico, they attach their baffles using threaded rods from the back side of the cabinet. That way the hardware is not right in your face but can still give you a bit of an industrial look.
                                Hold on to your butts - It's about to get Musical!



                                WEBSITE: http://www.smjaudio.com/

                                Comment

                                • mlammert
                                  Senior Member
                                  • Dec 2007
                                  • 373

                                  #17
                                  It is hard to tell in the renderings, but there is an 1/8" reveal on the wooden front baffles and on the wooden bases. I agree, little things like that really make a difference in detail.

                                  I am not too worried (maybe I should be - ha ha) that there will be a redesign. So far it has been driver and crossover based. And, with a removable front baffle, things like that should be even easier.

                                  Thanks!

                                  Comment

                                  • mlammert
                                    Senior Member
                                    • Dec 2007
                                    • 373

                                    #18
                                    Originally posted by Steve Manning
                                    Take a look at Sven's builds of the Calliope's and the Ardent D's for one method.
                                    Originally posted by Steve Manning
                                    Also take a look at Magico
                                    Will do! Thanks!

                                    Comment

                                    • Mikerodrig27
                                      Senior Member
                                      • Feb 2015
                                      • 160

                                      #19
                                      I am hoping that Jim and Curt come out with a redesign on the Bordeaux. That was one of the big deciding factors with making a seperate bass bin on that design. One can only wish. Jim seems satisfied with his speaker lineup at the moment...

                                      Comment

                                      • wallacefl
                                        Junior Member
                                        • May 2015
                                        • 2

                                        #20
                                        Originally posted by Mikerodrig27
                                        I am hoping that Jim and Curt come out with a redesign on the Bordeaux. That was one of the big deciding factors with making a seperate bass bin on that design. One can only wish. Jim seems satisfied with his speaker lineup at the moment...
                                        Agreed… maybe figure how to substitute the Fountek CD neo3 for the AC amt.

                                        Comment

                                        • Absinthe
                                          Member
                                          • Sep 2021
                                          • 48

                                          #21
                                          Originally posted by mlammert
                                          So, after a couple life set backs (not really - dog passing, getting new dog, getting new job, etc), I have the MDF (wow - the cost) and I am almost ready to start cutting.
                                          Sorry for your loss

                                          Comment

                                          • mlammert
                                            Senior Member
                                            • Dec 2007
                                            • 373

                                            #22
                                            Originally posted by Absinthe
                                            Sorry for your loss
                                            Thanks.

                                            She would often lay in between the speakers when I listened to them. She especially liked Spyro Gyra.

                                            I am sure I will be getting the sniffles when I dismantle the current Statements to build the IIs.

                                            Comment

                                            • mlammert
                                              Senior Member
                                              • Dec 2007
                                              • 373

                                              #23
                                              I have another question for anyone following.

                                              I am going to add a lip around the front of the cabinet to attach the removable front baffle to.

                                              Do I need to worry about altering the internal volume of the cabinet much?

                                              Nothing crazy. But, there will be some extra bracing within the cabinet than what is detailed on Curt and Jim's drawings.

                                              Any input is appreciated.

                                              Comment

                                              • 1Michael
                                                Senior Member
                                                • Sep 2006
                                                • 293

                                                #24
                                                Plus or minus 5% won't make any audible difference.
                                                Michael
                                                Chesapeake Va.

                                                Comment

                                                • Absinthe
                                                  Member
                                                  • Sep 2021
                                                  • 48

                                                  #25
                                                  Originally posted by mlammert
                                                  Thanks.

                                                  She would often lay in between the speakers when I listened to them. She especially liked Spyro Gyra.

                                                  I am sure I will be getting the sniffles when I dismantle the current Statements to build the IIs.
                                                  :cry:

                                                  Comment

                                                  • mlammert
                                                    Senior Member
                                                    • Dec 2007
                                                    • 373

                                                    #26
                                                    Hi everybody,

                                                    So, after months and months of life getting in the way, I am ready to start my build.

                                                    But...

                                                    It appears the NE123-8 ​is no longer in production?!? You have to be kidding me?!? 😡

                                                    Does anybody know of a legitimate store I can get these through in the USA?

                                                    Does anybody know if Curt and/or Jim might make a different drive recommendation?

                                                    I cannot believe I waited too long to upgrade... 😔

                                                    Any help is appreciated!
                                                    Last edited by mlammert; 14 October 2022, 12:26 Friday.

                                                    Comment

                                                    • Absinthe
                                                      Member
                                                      • Sep 2021
                                                      • 48

                                                      #27
                                                      Parts Express only shows them backordered. Is this "post pandemic code" for "just not making them anymore?"

                                                      Nice to know the world's supply chain is still a cluster****!

                                                      Comment

                                                      • JonMarsh
                                                        Mad Max Moderator
                                                        • Aug 2000
                                                        • 15330

                                                        #28
                                                        Peerless/Tymphany seems to have instituted a policy on minimum orders designed to discourage DIY usage. NE123W-8 is available on backorder for a minimum quantity of 1,000 pieces, lead time of 90-120 days. There are eBay vendors such as AudioStatus that have them in stock.



                                                        the AudioWorx
                                                        Natalie P
                                                        M8ta
                                                        Modula Neo DCC
                                                        Modula MT XE
                                                        Modula Xtreme
                                                        Isiris
                                                        Wavecor Ardent

                                                        SMJ
                                                        Minerva Monitor
                                                        Calliope
                                                        Ardent D

                                                        In Development...
                                                        Isiris Mk II updates- in final test stage!
                                                        Obi-Wan
                                                        Saint-Saëns Symphonique/AKA SMJ-40
                                                        Modula PWB
                                                        Calliope CC Supreme
                                                        Natalie P Ultra
                                                        Natalie P Supreme
                                                        Janus BP1 Sub


                                                        Resistance is not futile, it is Volts divided by Amperes...
                                                        Just ask Mr. Ohm....

                                                        Comment

                                                        • Jim Holtz
                                                          Ultra Senior Member
                                                          • Mar 2005
                                                          • 3223

                                                          #29
                                                          Well, Tympany strikes again! They have discontinued NE123-8's to orders of 1000 pieces, which puts most retailers out of the market. I did find some available on European websites. But shipping is unknown, and I'm not familiar with any of them.

                                                          Sorry, Curt and I have considered the Statements II a mature design for several years so there hasn't been any further development. I'm sure that's not good news. Sorry!

                                                          Jim

                                                          Comment

                                                          • mlammert
                                                            Senior Member
                                                            • Dec 2007
                                                            • 373

                                                            #30
                                                            Thank you JonMarsh and Jim Holtz !!!

                                                            I just ordered four Peerless NE123W-08's from ​the AudioStatus ​ebay store.

                                                            That was very weird. They apparently have two stores on ebay with different stock amounts. So, I had to place two orders (one in USD and one in BPD). I hope this worked. They get good ratings. So...

                                                            Wont get here for like two months. But, that will give me plenty of time to start building.

                                                            Thanks again!
                                                            Last edited by mlammert; 14 October 2022, 23:53 Friday.

                                                            Comment

                                                            • mlammert
                                                              Senior Member
                                                              • Dec 2007
                                                              • 373

                                                              #31
                                                              The NE123W-08's​ have arrived! Way ahead of the original schedule of 4-6 weeks as advertised on the ebay listing. 😀

                                                              The packaging was a bit questionable upon arrival. But they were generously wrapped in bubble wrap and had plastic cone protectors on them. Everything looked solid and undamaged upon inspection.

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                                                              Now to just start cutting wood.
                                                              Last edited by mlammert; 01 November 2022, 21:42 Tuesday.

                                                              Comment

                                                              • mlammert
                                                                Senior Member
                                                                • Dec 2007
                                                                • 373

                                                                #32
                                                                ​The sawdust has been flying.​
                                                                My friend and neighbor, who is a retired journeyman finish carpenter, has taken me under his wing and we have been cutting all the panels over the past two days.

                                                                He has all the big boy tools. Table saw with in-feed and out-feed tables. Jointer. Planer. All the gauges and levels and lasers.

                                                                It's been fun and I have learned a ton in the past two days.

                                                                All the interior pieces are cut to final sizes.

                                                                I made slight changes to the top, side, and back pieces so that I can 45 miter the corners instead of having butt joints. The tops, sides, and backs have been rough cut and we are going to do the 45 miters on his jointer. We did a test run today on the jointer and you could cut a piece of paper with the 45 edge. Crazy.

                                                                For the time being all the pieces are in the house acclimating.

                                                                Here are a few obligatory photos of the cut wood.

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                                                                Comment

                                                                • Mikerodrig27
                                                                  Senior Member
                                                                  • Feb 2015
                                                                  • 160

                                                                  #33
                                                                  Very nice! The 45 degree mitered corners will save you a lot of headache.

                                                                  Comment

                                                                  • Steve Manning
                                                                    Moderator
                                                                    • Dec 2006
                                                                    • 1900

                                                                    #34
                                                                    Nice .... +2 on the mitered corners.
                                                                    Hold on to your butts - It's about to get Musical!



                                                                    WEBSITE: http://www.smjaudio.com/

                                                                    Comment

                                                                    • mlammert
                                                                      Senior Member
                                                                      • Dec 2007
                                                                      • 373

                                                                      #35
                                                                      So, my buddy that is helping me had an issue with his jointer which has slowed progress a little. It is now back up and running and we are ready to start working on the 45 miters for the side and back panels of the speakers.

                                                                      During that time it gave me some time to think about the removable front baffles that I want to do.

                                                                      Here is a drawing detail of where the front baffles will join the side panels (top down view).

                                                                      Click image for larger version

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                                                                      The overall idea is that I will use 3/4" MDF per spec and then 1/2" thick rips of white oak to get the called for 1 1/4" thick front baffle. The strips of white oak will be 3/4" wide allowing us to "show" the side grain of the white oak. I hope that makes sense.

                                                                      We will have the 3/4" round over on the sides (per spec) and a 1/8" reveal where the oak fronts meet the painted sides of the cabinets.

                                                                      The RED line represents where we will have gasket tape.

                                                                      The GREEN shape represents t-nuts that will be embedded into the front baffles and I am 98% sure I have decided on using threaded rod to go through to the back of the speakers to tighten and secure the removable front baffle. This will allow me to place the threaded rod pretty much wherever is needed (especially around the mid tunnels) to allow a good tight seal for the removable front.

                                                                      My original idea was to use threaded studs on the front baffles to bolt them onto blocking within the speaker. This caused concern for me due to (1) the extra blocking taking up unaccounted for volume and (2) not having enough blocking or room for studs around the mid tunnels to get a good nice tight seal between front baffle and front of mid tunnels.

                                                                      I am still open to comments/criticisms/ideas on this, if anybody has any.

                                                                      Hopefully we will be cutting more wood in the next couple days.

                                                                      Thanks!

                                                                      Comment

                                                                      • Mikerodrig27
                                                                        Senior Member
                                                                        • Feb 2015
                                                                        • 160

                                                                        #36
                                                                        There is one concern. The pockets where the 3/8" piece of MDF meets the 3/4" oak could be an issue with swelling etc. If instead of having a square cutout, one of the sides were beveled just a little bit, then there is less of a chance of the tongue getting stuck and breaking apart upon removal. Tongue and groove isn't one of MDF's strong points.

                                                                        What is the reason that you want to install removable baffles again?

                                                                        I glued hardwood to MDF and there were a couple of very fine splits in the hardwood which are very hard to find. A small price to pay for such a funky type of glue-up. I could wipe a little poly in them but decided against to let the expansion and contraction happen.

                                                                        Comment

                                                                        • mlammert
                                                                          Senior Member
                                                                          • Dec 2007
                                                                          • 373

                                                                          #37
                                                                          Originally posted by Mikerodrig27
                                                                          If instead of having a square cutout, one of the sides were beveled just a little bit, then there is less of a chance of the tongue getting stuck and breaking apart upon removal. Tongue and groove isn't one of MDF's strong points.
                                                                          Thank you very much for your input.

                                                                          I was kind of concerned about that as well. It would not be hard to bevel one of the sides of the tongue. Honestly, I could just eliminate the tongue and groove all together. And just put the gasket tape on the front edge of the cabinet sides. It really was just a thought I had to aid in aligning the front baffle to the cabinet.

                                                                          I could even glue a little 3/4 x 3/4 "frame" around the inside of the front of the cabinet to give more surface area for the gasket tape (if I eliminate the tongue and groove).

                                                                          Thoughts?

                                                                          Originally posted by Mikerodrig27
                                                                          What is the reason that you want to install removable baffles again?
                                                                          My Statements v1 that I built, I have had for almost 15 years now. They looked great when I originally made them. Now, they are a bit dated. And, honestly, I just want to change their appearance. But, since their entire cabinets are made of MDF, I can't really do hardwood or anything like that.

                                                                          With the v2's that I am upgrading to, I thought it would be cool to make the fronts removable and the bottom bases removable. That way I could easily re-paint/re-veneer the cabinets in the future if I wanted to. And/or I could rebuild just the baffles/bases if I wanted a different wood or material.

                                                                          It really is the "only" deviation I am making from the original cad designs. And, doing 45 miters on the corners.

                                                                          Thanks!

                                                                          Comment

                                                                          • Mikerodrig27
                                                                            Senior Member
                                                                            • Feb 2015
                                                                            • 160

                                                                            #38
                                                                            That seems reasonable. I would omit the slot and just do a butt joint. Once you get everything aligned and clamped with screws, gasket etc, I doubt it is going to move anywhere. Have you thought of plumbers' putty as a gasket? It is malleable and will let the energy transfer to the cabinet sides etc due to it squeezing out. Also, another consideration, If you want a consistant 1/8" reveal, you will want a gasket that can clamp down tight enough. I know plumber's putty will squeeze out to just about nothing. This is just my brief brainstorming so disregard if you have already thought through all of this.

                                                                            You would want to use it towards the inside of the butt joint so it doesn't squeeze into the reveal. I know I pulled a pair of Von Sweikerd and saw a plumbers putty type material in there. I have also seen it in other speakers.

                                                                            Comment

                                                                            • VegasRN
                                                                              Junior Member
                                                                              • Aug 2022
                                                                              • 1

                                                                              #39
                                                                              Removable baffle seems like a lot of extra work.
                                                                              Last edited by VegasRN; 16 December 2022, 23:11 Friday.

                                                                              Comment

                                                                              • Jim Holtz
                                                                                Ultra Senior Member
                                                                                • Mar 2005
                                                                                • 3223

                                                                                #40
                                                                                Very Nice! Enjoy the music!

                                                                                Jim

                                                                                Comment

                                                                                • mlammert
                                                                                  Senior Member
                                                                                  • Dec 2007
                                                                                  • 373

                                                                                  #41
                                                                                  Originally posted by Mikerodrig27
                                                                                  That seems reasonable. I would omit the slot and just do a butt joint. Once you get everything aligned and clamped with screws, gasket etc, I doubt it is going to move anywhere.
                                                                                  Agreed. Eliminating the dado on the front. Butt joint will be much easier/safer and leave it more open ended for future front baffle ideas/designs.

                                                                                  So, wood cutting is coming along. We got several of the 45 miters for the sides and backs cut the other day on the planer (such a freaking awesome machine).

                                                                                  We are doing some dados for the bottom plate and the front-to-back shelf brace.

                                                                                  Once all wood is cut, I will post some photos before glue up and during.

                                                                                  I am starting to place some orders for more parts in the mean time.

                                                                                  I am going to order two of these:

                                                                                  https://www.parts-express.com/Precision-Port-3-Flared-Port-Tube-Kit-268-350

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                                                                                  And, I was wondering if anybody had any comments on if this would be good for the wedge foam to line the cabinets with?



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                                                                                  Thanks!
                                                                                  Last edited by theSven; 17 March 2023, 22:06 Friday. Reason: Update image location

                                                                                  Comment

                                                                                  • Mikerodrig27
                                                                                    Senior Member
                                                                                    • Feb 2015
                                                                                    • 160

                                                                                    #42
                                                                                    That foam would likely work. However, Meniscus has the foam for the kit. If you give them a call they should be able to send you the correct amount.

                                                                                    Comment

                                                                                    • mlammert
                                                                                      Senior Member
                                                                                      • Dec 2007
                                                                                      • 373

                                                                                      #43
                                                                                      Originally posted by Mikerodrig27
                                                                                      If you give them a call they should be able to send you the correct amount.
                                                                                      I email them and they are going to get back with me. Per their initial email, Jim prefers the usage of pyramid foam in his cabinets.


                                                                                      Tremendous progress was made today! 😀

                                                                                      We got all the backs, sides, and tops cut to size and appropriately mitered at 45 degrees for the corners.

                                                                                      We are going to do dados for the bottoms and shelf braces. So, cutting those will be the next steps. After that, glue up.

                                                                                      Here are some more obligatory photos of cut wood.

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                                                                                      Comment

                                                                                      • mlammert
                                                                                        Senior Member
                                                                                        • Dec 2007
                                                                                        • 373

                                                                                        #44
                                                                                        So, my carpenter buddy that has been helping me got sick with covid 🙁, so that has delayed things for a while. Hopefully be able to get back at it in about a week when he is fully recovered.

                                                                                        In the meantime, I have been looking at the crossover changes that need to be made. And, I have a couple questions.

                                                                                        1) For the tweeters, I need two 6ohm resisters. the Meniscus BOM calls for paralleling two 12ohm to make a 6ohm.

                                                                                        Could someone please explain to me the "advantage" to doing this over just using a 6phm resister?

                                                                                        Similar for the midrange, I need two 4.5ohm resistors, the Meniscus BOM calls for seriesing a 1.8ohm and a 2.7ohn to make a 4.5ohm.

                                                                                        2) The original Statements BOM used Dayton resistors and the IIs from Meniscus BOM call for Lynx resistors.

                                                                                        Does this matter? Should I source Daytons to match? Or, is it okay to Mix in Lynx when I rebuild the crossovers?

                                                                                        3) And... Since the original crossovers are going to be disassabled to create the new ones, is there any benefit to swapping in some other manufacturer's "higher quality" crossover components, since everything will be taken apart anyway?

                                                                                        Thanks as always!
                                                                                        Last edited by mlammert; 02 December 2022, 16:50 Friday.

                                                                                        Comment

                                                                                        • JonMarsh
                                                                                          Mad Max Moderator
                                                                                          • Aug 2000
                                                                                          • 15330

                                                                                          #45
                                                                                          Originally posted by VegasRN
                                                                                          I just finished my statements II build. Removable baffle seems like a lot of extra work.
                                                                                          Isn't it great when all this stuff finally comes together? Also a nice looking build.
                                                                                          the AudioWorx
                                                                                          Natalie P
                                                                                          M8ta
                                                                                          Modula Neo DCC
                                                                                          Modula MT XE
                                                                                          Modula Xtreme
                                                                                          Isiris
                                                                                          Wavecor Ardent

                                                                                          SMJ
                                                                                          Minerva Monitor
                                                                                          Calliope
                                                                                          Ardent D

                                                                                          In Development...
                                                                                          Isiris Mk II updates- in final test stage!
                                                                                          Obi-Wan
                                                                                          Saint-Saëns Symphonique/AKA SMJ-40
                                                                                          Modula PWB
                                                                                          Calliope CC Supreme
                                                                                          Natalie P Ultra
                                                                                          Natalie P Supreme
                                                                                          Janus BP1 Sub


                                                                                          Resistance is not futile, it is Volts divided by Amperes...
                                                                                          Just ask Mr. Ohm....

                                                                                          Comment

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