YASIIBT (Yet Another Statement II Build Thread)

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  • Chain
    Junior Member
    • Apr 2017
    • 5

    YASIIBT (Yet Another Statement II Build Thread)

    Hello all. I recently discovered this forum in my search for info on the Statement II's. I've been wanting to do a DIY build for a while, and one of the features I knew I wanted was a ribbon tweeter. I love the EMIT tweeter from vintage Infinity's (rocking the RSIIIb's as mains and RSVb's as surrounds), and from all of the positive reviews I've heard of the Statements, I don't think the Fountek will let me down. As much as i love the infinity's, there was no concept of a center channel back in the 80s, and my attempts to create one from spare drivers has not produced good results. So, as a start to a potential 5 channel Statement II system, I'm building the center channel.

    First off let me give a big thanks to Jim and Curt for all the effort they've put into these speakers (and the DIY community as a whole). And also to everyone else who's posted Statement builds or given advice on them, ultimately it was all of this info and support that made me decide to take the plunge. This seems to be the Holy Grail for Statement builds.

    So, I have the crossovers and wiring done, all the components on hand, and have started on the box. I plan to finish the cabinet in Duratex, I've had good results with it in the past, and I like the matte finish on the center. Perhaps I will try something different for the mains (whenever that happens). I bought the bare bones kit from Meniscus, and have been following their basic build instructions. I do have a few questions though...

    First, if you guys could look over my crossover and let me know if I've done anything incredibly stupid or not, that would be great. There's also a pic so you could get an idea of how I attached the wiring to the crossover. All connections are crimped or twisted and then soldered. I plan to put the mid and tweeter crossovers in their chamber, and the woofer on one of the sides.

    Second, I have a bunch of OC 703 and wool damping material. My plan based on the Meniscus guide, and what I've read around here, is to line all 3 compartments with 1" OC 703, and put some wool loosely in the back half of the middle chamber. Does that sound OK or should I make some changes?

    Thanks in advance!

    Crossovers
    Click image for larger versionName:	IMG_20170409_161628.jpgViews:	1Size:	99.8 KBID:	872174
    Wiring attached...
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    Only a couple pieces glued down here... the rest just mocked up.
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    Click image for larger versionName:	IMG_20170416_153628.jpgViews:	1Size:	77.0 KBID:	872177
    Last edited by theSven; 30 April 2023, 14:24 Sunday. Reason: Update image size
  • BobEllis
    Super Senior Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 1609

    #2
    Welcome to the forum, Chain. You'll find lots of friendly help. Unfortunately I don't know the crossover, so cannot give advice on that.

    I know that there are parts in the cabinet pictures that are not glued in, but the right brace in the first cabinet picture looks like you should recut it. The gaps are large, and yellow glue has no gap filling ability. Another option would be to fill the void with something that has both volume and strength, like thickened epoxy. Messy and expensive if you don't already have it, epoxy is one of my favorite things. It would probably make more sense to get some more MDF and cut a brace to tighter tolerances.

    Comment

    • Pknaz
      Member
      • Mar 2013
      • 98

      #3
      I've had a set of Infinity speakers with the old Emit-R tweeters, you won't be let down by the Fountek, much better quality, I think.

      Comment

      • scottvalentin
        Senior Member
        • May 2015
        • 175

        #4
        You could also try a glue like PL Premium as it has gap-filling properties and is easier to use than epoxy. Welcome to the forum!

        Comment

        • Chain
          Junior Member
          • Apr 2017
          • 5

          #5
          Update!

          Thanks for the replies and suggestions. All the cuts lined up much better than they looked in the pic, I think I was a bit hasty to get a picture of SOMETHING, since I agree with the philosophy 'pics or it isn't happening'.

          Anyway, the walls are lined with OC 703, jist need to finish putting some black fabric over the rest of the bare insulation. Its probably not necessary (the fabric), being its inside a cabinet. But my OCD kicking in when dealing with fiberglass.

          So let me know if anyone sees something I should do before I glue the baffle on this weekend. I've been using PL premium for the majority of the joints, wow is that good stuff, don't think I'll go back to yellow glue for this type of joining.

          Also, I don't know why this site likes to turn my pics 90 or 180 degrees....

          Click image for larger versionName:	IMG_20170514_161618.jpgViews:	1Size:	61.1 KBID:	862990Click image for larger versionName:	IMG_20170518_193239.jpgViews:	1Size:	90.1 KBID:	862991
          Last edited by theSven; 30 April 2023, 14:24 Sunday. Reason: Update image size

          Comment

          • doubleTrouble
            Junior Member
            • Mar 2016
            • 25

            #6
            Hi Chain,
            Just in case you are interested, usual steel screws in an iron core inductor change its value. Personally, I would use plastic or brass screws, or anything non-magnetic, like zip-ties.

            Comment

            • Chain
              Junior Member
              • Apr 2017
              • 5

              #7
              Thanks! I swapped them for nylon screws.

              Comment

              • Chain
                Junior Member
                • Apr 2017
                • 5

                #8
                First coat of primer! First time using a HVLP spray gun, learning a lot. I used a shellac based primer, its doing a great job of hiding the seams.

                I had the center up and running for a few weeks while I was waiting for some router bits to arrive. It sounded great! Really impressed with the depth and detail of voices. Though, some of the deepest male voices sounded just a tad heavy for my taste; I will add some more stuffing to the woofer chambers and see if that helps.

                Definitely going to be moving on to the full statements after the center is finished!

                Click image for larger version

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                Last edited by theSven; 30 April 2023, 14:24 Sunday. Reason: Update image location

                Comment

                • Jim Holtz
                  Ultra Senior Member
                  • Mar 2005
                  • 3223

                  #9
                  Lookin good!

                  I'm curious, did you have the center against the wall or enclosed in an entertainment center by chance? Polyfill might help some.

                  Jim

                  Comment

                  • Chain
                    Junior Member
                    • Apr 2017
                    • 5

                    #10
                    Thanks Jim! I put the center back where it was for a quick pic of the setup. The baffle is about 6 inches in front of the TV and flush with the front of the entertainment center. Listening position is about 10 feet away, room is open to dining room and kitchen. Do you think this setup could be causing any problems?

                    Click image for larger version

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                    Last edited by theSven; 30 April 2023, 14:25 Sunday. Reason: Update image location

                    Comment

                    • Jim Holtz
                      Ultra Senior Member
                      • Mar 2005
                      • 3223

                      #11
                      Hmmmm.... Based on the picture and your description, it should not cause "chesty" male vocals. Curt always allows full baffle step in crossovers for my projects because he knows that I like bass. But, I've not heard any chesty male vocals. It looks like you have a ways to go before they're ready to go back in action. A couple suggestions, fill the mid chamber 1/2 full of medium stuffed polyfill and do the same with the woofer compartments without crowding the back of the drivers. The drivers need to have space to "breathe". Be sure that the space between the mid chamber and the back of the cabinet allows air to pass between chambers.

                      After that's done, test again. If its still chesty, move it out in front of the entertainment center and test to see if you can hear any difference. If they're both chesty sounding, I'll get Curt involved and see if he has ideas.

                      It's looking very good!

                      Jim
                      Last edited by Jim Holtz; 19 July 2017, 22:03 Wednesday.

                      Comment

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