Wavecor Ardent Journal - the first Builds

[dar47]

Thanks for the kind words, I too will have 5 acres in grass when I finish seeding the last too acres. I have a 27 horse Mitsubishi 4 cyl. compact diesel tractor that I was considering getting new rims, turf tires and adding a 7' finish mower for it but I didn't want to keep flipping tires out on it, still lots of ag work for it and the back tires are calcium filled and heavy.
I ended up with the Craftsman pro 27 horse, 48" deck. Consider the 54" deck but I do have some ditch work and the 54" seemed too big. Hope no worries it's made by Husqvarna as well which is rated well. :E It is the bigger frame, tranny with the reinforced deck. They call them garden class for ground engaging attachments not lawn class, Hee Hee. (my mitts is ground engaging). :B I figure if it takes to much of my time cutting I can always add the 7' finish later but so far it's doing a nice job.

[bigjohn]

If you got the one with the fabricated and welded deck you should be fine. The other week I discovered a new rock in my field that bent a blade and sent the blade through the stamped deck and which left about a 2'' gash ops:. We've only had the property for about 6 months and I've learned a lot about what I want in my next mower. I've also been very luck in that my neighbor has a nice tractor with a brush hog that I've been borrowing to keep up with the what mine can't do. A tractor with a 7' deck is my dream, though I think my field is too bumpy for one that wide.

[JonMarsh]

2nd cabinet rubbed out today, and working on the LF wiring harness... may actually get to mounting drivers, but have other tasks in the queue, including getting ready/cleaning up for Father's Day dinner with my daughter and her fiancé. I've also been working on one of the Les Paul's, and that has proven to have a few more twists and turns than anticipated, but it's coming along...

[dar47]

i think I'm going to do a HTPC, it would also be nice to hear and see stuff like this through the new Ardents.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsmeuC38nkw

[kevinm]

Have you checked out Plex? I have an HTPC running Plex software and it's pretty incredible.

[dar47]

Yes, I think i might start with Media Portal first my son keeps going back to it and thinks I should get my feet wet with it. I will try Plex and JRiver Media Center after that. Nothing fancy with the operating system just Window 8.

[JonMarsh]

i think I'm going to do a HTPC, it would also be nice to hear and see stuff like this through the new Ardents.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsmeuC38nkw

Keep in mind you can use something like iSkysoft iTube Studio (Mac or Windows) to download those YouTube videos in what ever resolution preference is available (usually several), and build a library on your HTPC; I have several gigs of music lesson videos downloaded that way; don't have to worry about having an online connection or whether the video will be available a year from now...

[JonMarsh]

Got diverted into planning for our concrete pad and storage shed outback, in fact the company daughter's fiancé works for will likely do the concrete work, and we have another meeting with him this Saturday to go over site issues. But I have everything "un-stored" after the visit by my colleague, and ready to get back to work on the Ardent assembly. 2nd cab does look nice, and should make good progress starting later this Saturday.

Slow work takes time...

[BobEllis]

.... Nothing fancy with the operating system just Window 8.

Sorry to hear that. I volunteer at a place that has a Windows (H)8 machine, and can't stand it.

I have JRiver on a Win 7 machine and love it, especially with the JRemote app. I use it to push to my Oppo BDP-103. I haven't used any of the others you are considering, but don't think you'll have trouble learning its functions.

[5th element]

Getting close to popping in the drivers. I'd be getting pretty excited by now

I am curious to see how the new bass units not only measure, but how you think they sound.

[JonMarsh]

Getting close to popping in the drivers. I'd be getting pretty excited by now

I am curious to see how the new bass units not only measure, but how you think they sound.

I'm guardedly optimistic- I think these parts, and the chosen sealed alignment, have a lot of potential.

This graph sums up the basis for my optimism,



as well as this one:




the low distortion, both 2nd order, and in the midrange, is a function of the very nice motor design, which is also highlighted by the very well behaved impedance curve (for two in series) shown above- minimal inductivity modulation and a well controlled curve combined with the stiff enclosure design and LF alignment (fairly well damped Fb at 32 Hz) should work quite nicely with good room placement. Cross fingers...

[5th element]

You just about summed it up. Those measure more like a nice woofer rather than a sub. The fact that the distortion only decreases (ignoring the cone resonance amplification) as frequency increases is very telling about the motor quality. Then there's the fact that you could also try them push pull Much to the displeasure of everyone else.

[benthe8track]

I started to install the Mids but apparently I didn't order enough screws. I'll probably wait until we order xover parts from madisound.

[JonMarsh]

I started to install the Mids but apparently I didn't order enough screws. I'll probably wait until we order xover parts from madisound.

If it's not one thing, it's something else... I bought a complete set of screws for driver mounting when I mounted up the one set of drivers for measurements, and after taking those drivers out of the cabinets to work on them, carefully put them away... and couldn't find them a week ago. So now I've picked up another full set...

We're talking to my daughter's fiancé this AM about having a concrete pad put in, but after that it's back to the Ardents! Let's see if I can make some real progress this weekend- should even get a real reason to break out the DeWalt DW160 today...

[knowledgebass]

Dar, not sure how anxious you are but I found Kreg #7 coarse threaded pan head screws were a good fit for the counter bore in the Anarchy drivers and should be available just about everywhere (although they will need a coat of paint). Couldn't stomach spending $30 for like 12 screws from Solen or $50 for bolts and inserts from Fastenal. Of course no problem spending $20 on miscellaneous packs of screws to get something that will fit

[JonMarsh]

Man, fiddly bits sure can eat up a lot of time! that's all I seemed to be working on in my brief spare time this Saturday and Sunday- though I'd hoped to be getting to the driver mounting stage, not quite there yet. I did get in some Acoustastuff to try out in the bass enclosure- not sure I expect any difference from fiberglass, but it's less noxious to work with. What I should do is compare near field response sweeps and impedance curves with the original fiberglass fill- who knows, I might end up going back to that! Will stay with long fiber wool for the midrange enclosure. Got some pics of the work this weekend, but not downloaded from the camera- will put more together after things get further along. I'm being a little OCD about the wiring, all will be clear with pictures.

The DW160 is proving indispensable for a few specific tasks because of the way I'm putting this together, and is targeted at some similar tasks for the Isiris reconstruction starting around July 4.

Though I am taking July 3 off, too, it looks like I'll be driving up to Roseville North of Sacramento for that VFR1200F I'm interested in- things are falling into place, and I should have the check from my piggy bank to cover that (and a few Farkels) by this Friday. My eBay reward/discount coupon will get used quickly, to help fund a new slightly higher windscreen.

[benthe8track]

Dar, not sure how anxious you are but I found Kreg #7 coarse threaded pan head screws were a good fit for the counter bore in the Anarchy drivers and should be available just about everywhere (although they will need a coat of paint). Couldn't stomach spending $30 for like 12 screws from Solen or $50 for bolts and inserts from Fastenal. Of course no problem spending $20 on miscellaneous packs of screws to get something that will fit

Solen wasn't THAT bad for the screws it's just the shipping for such small amounts that suck. I'll just throw them the madisound order when I get the xover bits. Only need 6 lousy screws. Price I pay for using socket head cap screws instead of panheads. Although I'm starting to wonder if the exposed socket heads will do anything funny with the tweeter.

In terms of bass enclosure stuffing I have some open cell egg crate foam that I may try also have some dacron kicking around. Not sure if you can actually hear any of that though.

[JonMarsh]

In terms of bass enclosure stuffing I have some open cell egg crate foam that I may try also have some dacron kicking around. Not sure if you can actually hear any of that though.

Really, for the bass enclosure, we're just looking for enough damping to increase the effective enclosure size (determines Fb) and control the Q (resistive damping).

Remember Jim's post?



If you're considering cost primarily, then around 0.75lb/cu. ft is a good place to be- if you want optimum damping and lowest Fsb, then about double that. Unfortunately I realize I only have about half the acousta-stuff I need for a pair- and I have a lot of fiber glass on hand. Well, I suppose the ready answer is test both and compare, eh? I should test both 1 lb. for 40 liters and 2 lb. for 40 liters, and compare against a good fiber glass stuff.

[knowledgebass]

Solen wasn't THAT bad for the screws it's just the shipping for such small amounts that suck.

Yeah, I would have been willing to pay the price of just the screws, certainly in line with the price per screw of specialty stores (without the 50 or 100 count minimum) but once they factor in the shipping AND handling on small orders it starts to sting a little.

The 'pan head' screws by Kreg look a lot like socket cap ones from Solen and Madisound (well, other than colour and Robertson vs. hex). I haven't measured them but these No. 7's look a lot like a No.8 hardware store screw when side by side.



$5/100 at LV (literally purchased three other ~$5 packs before these). These Kreg screws fit the recess in the Anarchy frame perfectly so I don't think there's any concern about interference from the tweeter. Or are you using the socket cap on the tweeter as well? A little more felt perhaps? I was just planning to use some [normal] pan heads for my tweeters. Unfortunately the tweeter screws will be Philips head and not Robertson used in the woofers although at least I won't have to paint them and the planned for grills will hide them too.

[5th element]

Have you tried ebay for screws? I know in the UK there is usually an impressive range at decent prices on offer.

[benthe8track]

Really, for the bass enclosure, we're just looking for enough damping to increase the effective enclosure size (determines Fb) and control the Q (resistive damping).

Remember Jim's post?



If you're considering cost primarily, then around 0.75lb/cu. ft is a good place to be- if you want optimum damping and lowest Fsb, then about double that. Unfortunately I realize I only have about half the acousta-stuff I need for a pair- and I have a lot of fiber glass on hand. Well, I suppose the ready answer is test both and compare, eh? I should test both 1 lb. for 40 liters and 2 lb. for 40 liters, and compare against a good fiber glass stuff.

Is that density interms of mass per volume of box? I think the first time I read that my brain registered it as the density of material.
I think I stopped considering cost for this project long ago haha. I'll probably use that egg crate foam and fluff some dacron in there and call it a day however.

Yeah, I would have been willing to pay the price of just the screws, certainly in line with the price per screw of specialty stores (without the 50 or 100 count minimum) but once they factor in the shipping AND handling on small orders it starts to sting a little.

The 'pan head' screws by Kreg look a lot like socket cap ones from Solen and Madisound (well, other than colour and Robertson vs. hex). I haven't measured them but these No. 7's look a lot like a No.8 hardware store screw when side by side.



$5/100 at LV (literally purchased three other ~$5 packs before these). These Kreg screws fit the recess in the Anarchy frame perfectly so I don't think there's any concern about interference from the tweeter. Or are you using the socket cap on the tweeter as well? A little more felt perhaps? I was just planning to use some [normal] pan heads for my tweeters. Unfortunately the tweeter screws will be Philips head and not Robertson used in the woofers although at least I won't have to paint them and the planned for grills will hide them too.

Yeah the medium sized socket screws fit the tweeter well, although they protrude a wee bit. They are covered by the felt so it may not make a difference.

5th: I checked ebay (I get almost everything from there and Amazon) but it seems the only place that sells them are speaker places or I can order a container of them from Alibaba.

[JonMarsh]

Well, you guys won't approve, but I'm actually mounting drivers, but just with philips head stainless steel screws! On the other hand, I AM being rather OCD about the wire connections, putting AWG 14 pigtails on the Cardas SE11 concentric cable and the AWG 12 for the woofers. Pictures later this weekend, once I have enough progress to be meaningful.

The main hassle about working with the Cardas SE11 is that it is Litz wire, and with my digital controlled Weller cranked up, it still takes 2-3 minutes with the iron and solder to get the insulation to flow off. A solder pot or a classical solder gun can do it faster, if above 600 degrees, but will usually burn or oxidize the solder to a degree. It takes about 2 minutes per lead to tin the wires, then applying a pigtail and soldering is fairly fast.



The update will likely be on Sunday, not tomorrow, because tomorrow it looks like I'm driving up to Roseville CA, north of Sacarmento, to pick up this critter (bottom picture) and ride it back, then take GF out for a nice dinner, since she's going to drive me up there!



It's been a rough week at the ranch, the last nine months, and I feel like acting out a bit to compensate. :B

Nothing by half measures, either; I have plans for how to fix up the things I don't think are quite right, and will post about that later this summer in the "Speed" section. I've had my eye on this model since the introduction in 2010; though there were a few glitches to address by the factory, and some that still aren't by the factory (such as the neutered torque curve between 2,000 and 5,000 RPM in 1st and 2nd gear) (but can be by the aftermarket), at least there hasn't been some of the unfortunately reliability issues that have plagued the big Beemer I like (in theory) so much, the six cylinder K1600. And this is downright light weight in comparison to the Beemer or my ST1300.

There's some interesting forums for the bike, and a great long thread on one of the English forums by a 60 year old guy who's quite a character, and rides in some of the parts we visited in England last summer, like Whitby.

This is one of those ongoing saga threads....

http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/forum/showthread.php?t=116678

And he's a master craftsman, and among other things, besides documenting what he's done to his VFR1200, has documented most of a Triumph T120R restoration he did for a friend- gratis on labor. If you're have a a gear head gene at all in you, readying this thread just of what he does with that Triumph T120R is well worthwhile.

His VFR has been de-catted, and is running a Power Commander ECU with AutoTune, plus a nice aftermarket pipe- very respectable rear wheel horse power, as you can see below.

Image not available

The dyno guy said this is the best he's ever seen for a VFR1200.

Image not available


Yes, I prefer a red bike to a black one (2010 versus 2013), though I don't like all the silver on the a standard 2010 (Dave here has repainted some of his bits, like the tail section and undersea)- I have a plan to deal with that- we'll have to see how it works out!

[benthe8track]

Well, you guys won't approve, but I'm actually mounting drivers, but just with philips head stainless steel screws! On the other hand, I AM being rather OCD about the wire connections, putting AWG 14 pigtails on the Cardas SE11 concentric cable and the AWG 12 for the woofers. Pictures later this weekend, once I have enough progress to be meaningful.

The main hassle about working with the Cardas SE11 is that it is Litz wire, and with my digital controlled Weller cranked up, it still takes 2-3 minutes with the iron and solder to get the insulation to flow off. A solder pot or a classical solder gun can do it faster, if above 600 degrees, but will usually burn or oxidize the solder to a degree. It takes about 2 minutes per lead to tin the wires, then applying a pigtail and soldering is fairly fast.

Nothing by half measures, either; I have plans for how to fix up the things I don't think are quite right, and will post about that later this summer in the "Speed" section. I've had my eye on this model since the introduction in 2010; though there were a few glitches to address by the factory, and some that still aren't by the factory (such as the neutered torque curve between 2,000 and 5,000 RPM in 1st and 2nd gear) (but can be by the aftermarket), at least there hasn't been some of the unfortunately reliability issues that have plagued the big Beemer I like (in theory) so much, the six cylinder K1600. And this is downright light weight in comparison to the Beemer or my ST1300.

There's some interesting forums for the bike, and a great long thread on one of the English forums by a 60 year old guy who's quite a character, and rides in some of the parts we visited in England last summer, like Whitby.

This is one of those ongoing saga threads....

http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/forum/showthread.php?t=116678

And he's a master craftsman, and among other things, besides documenting what he's done to his VFR1200, has documented most of a Triumph T120R restoration he did for a friend- gratis on labor. If you're have a a gear head gene at all in you, readying this thread just of what he does with that Triumph T120R is well worthwhile.

His VFR has been de-catted, and is running a Power Commander ECU with AutoTune, plus a nice aftermarket pipe- very respectable rear wheel horse power, as you can see below.

Image not available

The dyno guy said this is the best he's ever seen for a VFR1200.

Image not available


Yes, I prefer a red bike to a black one (2010 versus 2013), though I don't like all the silver on the a standard 2010 (Dave here has repainted some of his bits, like the tail section and undersea)- I have a plan to deal with that- we'll have to see how it works out!

Very cool. My co-worker just picked up on of the comfy BMW bikes. There was some sort of recall so he can't ride it till August so they offered him 2500 in parts. I jokingly told him that will get him a nice set of branded gloves.

I almost pulled the trigger on a new Infiniti Q50 last week but held off since it would sit almost 50% of the year. Also went with a buddy to look at a Ferrari 360 and a Bentley Continental GT, he has a larger tolerance for massively depreciating assets than I do haha.

Are there any x-over parts that will remain fixed that I could buy now? My shift schedule means I'll be delayed a week on anything I order.

[JonMarsh]

Where things stand...

Are there any x-over parts that will remain fixed that I could buy now? My shift schedule means I'll be delayed a week on anything I order.

There's what I believe, and then there's ultimate reality after testing is finished. Now, I believe that from the sequence of simulations I did, including extensive reverse null evaluation behavior to tune the phase characteristics, that things are well in the ball park for inductive and capacitive components. Actually, I believe the resistors tuning levels and damping are OK, too-

Let's look at that test plot-




I believe the slight dip in the 100-250 area is due to floor bounce and other boundary reflections- the near field response on the driver looks as it should- I'll evaluate this further upon assembling the first cabinet with several far field measurements in different room positions.

The dip around 700 seems to be a similar matter- and it isn't present in some other measurements done the same day at mic positions.



I'm pretty certain the dip up around 9K is a diffraction cancellation issue- the original Ardents had the same on axis dip until applying the diamond slit diffraction control felt.



So, I'm sporting enough to say that I wouldn't stake my life on there being no changes, but I would stake a nice dinner out in Calgary or the Bay area... does that qualify it sufficiently? :W


Well, I've got some stiff muscles in my thighs today- the riding position on the VFR1200 is more sporting than the VFR800 I have! Which was a surprise, but not a long term problem, as I already have goodies on the way to fine tune that and some other things. Most of them are coming from the UK via eBay, though!

Very cool. My co-worker just picked up on of the comfy BMW bikes. There was some sort of recall so he can't ride it till August so they offered him 2500 in parts. I jokingly told him that will get him a nice set of branded gloves.

I almost pulled the trigger on a new Infiniti Q50 last week but held off since it would sit almost 50% of the year. Also went with a buddy to look at a Ferrari 360 and a Bentley Continental GT, he has a larger tolerance for massively depreciating assets than I do haha.

Interesting to hear about your friend, and I also appreciate your thoughts about the Q50. And they tie together. Because though I've had the hots for one of these VFR1200's since they came out, the BMW K1600GT sport tourer really distracted me.




It gets great reviews in the mags, in spite of it's 800lb. weight, and it handles remarkably well for that weight (based on my own test drive). BUT, I've been watching the forums and reports of warranty work and recalls, and BMW has had a lot more trouble (or it's owners have) with this bike than seems reasonable to me. And, too, it's a pretty fair piece of change! (not as much as your proposed Q50, but for a bike it's pretty expensive). OTOH, the VFR has had issues reported about the rear shock adjuster freezing up and not adjusting, and some early issues with the ECU. And as mentioned earlier, there's the neutering of the torque curve between 2500 and 6000 RPM. But very good reliability overall, especially considering they had over 100 new patents for design features on the bike, including a new design shaft drive, and narrowed V design with the rear cylinders mounted close and 28 degree offset crank pins to get back to a 90 degree firing order. They've been quite reliable in the field, (not many of them in the US, this bike is mostly popular in Europe) and due to the popularity issue, I got a pretty nice price on this one- about half what the BMW would have cost.

Ironically, this was funded by run up in value of my Apple stock, especially the block I bought at the dip in late January- that alone netted enough to cover the OTD price.

Picked it up in Roseville yesterday, GF drove me up there-




After my first 100 miles on it, we're back in Danville!








So, I'd probably better work on a little yoga and limbering up, and will be taking the bike through the side yard to the patio for the updates coming in for it- it won't be a garage queen (no room in the garage!) but will be a patio queen for a few weeks, I think!

But for today, back to assembly work on the Ardents! (well, and laundry, too.... ) :W

[5th element]

Black is back as it were.

It does beg the question though, why did they mess up the power transfer in the lower gears at lower revs? I'm not a bike person, but I'd figure that getting good power transfer around the 3.5k-6.5k range, through the lower gears, would be very important towards the bikes ability to accelerate properly. Well at least there's a fix for it, but it does beg the question, why not fix the bike before it's even released?

[JonMarsh]

There's a lot of speculation about that, some folks back in 2010 even speculating that it was a sort of poor man's traction control in the lower gears. OTOH, one magazine tester who had it out on the track winning out of a curve in 3rd noted that he thought it was sliding a little bit, and when he returned to that same turn a lap later, there was a big black stripe where the engine had been over powering the tire in 3rd gear in that RPM range. My own brief experience going up a short hill shifting into 3rd was a bit spooky- pulling stronger and accelerating faster in a higher gear! It's easy to see why from the dyno chart I posted earlier.

By the way, the current model has true traction control, but still has the torque cut back in 1st and 2nd.

Another theory holds that it's a necessary thing for reliability of the DCT clutch auto tranny version- and they didn't de-restrict the conventional manual version in order to not make the DCT look less attractive. This has a certain smell of engineering and marketing realism about it...

I have a Bazzaz Z-Bomb already, which just plugs into a signal path in the wiring harness between gear sensor and ECU- figure to install it when i do the 600 mile service or after I get that done at a dealer- May need to go with the dealer for warranty purposes. I did purchase an additional two years of warranty, just to be on the safe side...

[5th element]

So in other words they bake the reduced torque into the design to make the thing more reliable and to prevent the wheel from slipping due to people trying to accelerate too quickly.

[sdl2112]

Congratulations Jon...Very nice bike:T I have always liked the Honda V4s. I would like to see more models with that engine. Maybe that torque dip was to meet emissions??? I believe my Ducati was geared very tall for that reason...I changed the gearing now it launches much better:B

[JonMarsh]

So in other words they bake the reduced torque into the design to make the thing more reliable and to prevent the wheel from slipping due to people trying to accelerate too quickly.

That's the basic theory. As you can see from the torque and horsepower curves when sorted properly, it is something of a torque and horsepower monster. Most of the Ricky-Racer bikes have to get above 5-6000 RPM before things really kick in. I don't know if this being a TBW bike makes it any more of a problem (Throttle By Wire)- and Honda is more conservative than, say, Ducati or Suzuki.

[JonMarsh]

Congratulations Jon...Very nice bike:T I have always liked the Honda V4s. I would like to see more models with that engine. Maybe that torque dip was to meet emissions??? I believe my Ducati was geared very tall for that reason...I changed the gearing now it launches much better:B
[ATTACH=CONFIG]23205[/ATTACH]

Nice Duck!

They have a VFR1200X Crosstour with that engine (tuned more for torque and midrange ) but only in Europe.

[cjd]

Did this turn into a car forum?



Currently shopping for a new garage for this... (yes, it should come with a new house over an hour closer to work and with a room for me to vent and use as a work-shop is a requirement!) Short of a Porsche, there's very little out there that handles this well from the manufacturer. It's not particularly quick (only 200HP from its N/A 2L boxer) but getting to the speed limit a little faster isn't much fun in the grand scheme of things.

[JonMarsh]

Did this turn into a car forum?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]23207[/ATTACH]

Currently shopping for a new garage for this... (yes, it should come with a new house over an hour closer to work and with a room for me to vent and use as a work-shop is a requirement!) Short of a Porsche, there's very little out there that handles this well from the manufacturer. It's not particularly quick (only 200HP from its N/A 2L boxer) but getting to the speed limit a little faster isn't much fun in the grand scheme of things.

Nah, this is the special bike forum sub thread! Nice black BRZ! Those are pretty popular out here, along with the Toyota version. So, are you having much luck in your garage hunt? Some good prospects lined up? And if you're hoping to cut your commute by an hour, how long is it now? Or were you just planning on going faster? :W

I do plan to post more about the trip up to Roseville and the mods to the scooter, but I'll do that in the Speed section AFTER we get the Ardents fully operational!

[cjd]

Nah, this is the special bike forum sub thread! Nice black BRZ! Those are pretty popular out here, along with the Toyota version. So, are you having much luck in your garage hunt? Some good prospects lined up? And if you're hoping to cut your commute by an hour, how long is it now? Or were you just planning on going faster? :W

I do plan to post more about the trip up to Roseville and the mods to the scooter, but I'll do that in the Speed section AFTER we get the Ardents fully operational!

Drive a BRZ, you'll understand. It's winning over S2000 folks; all the prowess, and (if I read/understand correctly) similar feedback but much more gradual change - so very predictable, easy to work with. And a lot easier to upgrade too - brakes/wheels in particular. Just a bit less power. Priced like a Miata, with room for a person even with the roof up. The Scion version (through the '14 m/y) is a little more prone to oversteer, and slightly less balanced from the factory - they must agree because they tweaked the spring rates for '15. I'm not likely to get into bikes. I got the BRZ because of the amenities - dual zone cooling (so my wife can set temps where she wants and I don't overheat/overcool) and heated seats.

Oh yeah. It also fits 4 tires inside (rear seats down) so easier to drive to the races. Also fit the Nebbiolo with ease.

House Garage hunt is on a nervous holding pattern, since we put an offer out but it left a pretty big gap. The house dropped to $10k below their first counter-offer a couple days later, so we'll see what this week brings. Still a big gap, but they're nearing a month on the market and had yet another open-house yesterday. We asked for the comps they're using, since the price is still pretty high - we just looked at a newly refabbed house one block over on an extra wide lot (37x125 vs 25x125) listed at the same price - so 10 years newer.

I currently leave the house around 7:25 and walk into work ~9:05 - though if the train were on time I could do 9:00. That's ~12-15 minutes driving 5 miles to the station, train for 1:12+, and ~5min to exit the station and cross the street. The houses we're looking at would be a ~10-15min walk for a 12-18 minute train ride right into the building I work in. No drive (whee, I can drop to "leisure" on my car insurance) a shorter train run and no monthly parking fee will recoup close to a month's payment a year too...

I may even turn this into a speaker project, though I'd like to go all Neo drivers to shed a little weight (every bit helps - ~2750 right now) and am having a heck of a time finding something for the door that suits. Different thread, but at least it's almost on-topic again.

[JonMarsh]

Last day at work this week...

After our immediate handler had a little sense talked into him by higher level managers, I'm back on for having my day off on July 3rd to start a 4 day weekend, and vacation going to WA state for GF's niece's wedding. That doesn't start until July 30. This new immediate handler from a couple of months ago is a real PITA for a variety of reasons, and we're getting more and more issues dealing with him. Fortunately his boss seems to be cut from more sensible material... speak of the devil, walking by while I'm sipping my cappuccino in the company cafeteria... :W

Anywho, I also got shipping notice on the new Cardas parts for the Isiris, but as it stands getting the Ardent's assembled and tested and tweaked if needed will get numero uno priority this weekend- even over the new scooter! 8O If time permits, I'll also get back to the sub build for HT, but I won't touch the Isiris until the pair of Ardents is finalized (they'll be going into the family room system while working on the Isiris).

Then, if I really make good progress on the other stuff, I may start the mods on the bike- had the first mod in hand before the bike! :B

My colleague in Munich is looking at something new in amplification- a used set of mono blocks from a dealer in England, 700 series, from this company...

http://www.soulution-audio.com/en/serie7/711/index.php

Pretty terrifying prices and technology level... looks like a combination of Ayre, Spectral, and Boulder Audio. Makes Ayre look like a budget brand, too. I hope he buys them just so I get a chance to listen to them....

My Cambridge Audio 840W is being flaky when first turned on when the speakers are connected- going into protection. If the speakers or most of the speakers aren't connected (say, unhook midrange and tweeter), then all is well. And once warmed up a little, no problem doing a complete cold start from main switch off. Curious, to say the least. Could be an excuse for buying a new 851W, though there aren't any reviews out on it that I trust, what technical details I've been able to glean are promising... maybe this fall. At least then, I might have time to pull out the scope and take a closer look at what is going on. This occurs even with the inputs unhooked, so it's not something from the change in the digital system with the DCD-8 in the path.

[5th element]

Those soulution audio amps measure very well, they should be extremely transparent.

[dar47]

So sad you have to have everything workout with it looks like 3 sets of managers months before just to get a day off. I told my boss on Friday, see you next Tuesday. But your planning did pay off and your working on the Ardents! arty: I hope that sweet ride doesn't tug at you to much though. :W

I pickup wood today and we will see how long it will take me to punch out 2 component stands and the manifold for the 2-18" IB drivers.

[JonMarsh]

Those soulution audio amps measure very well, they should be extremely transparent.

That's what I think, too- and that's why I told my friend I hope he buys them just so I can hear them next time I'm in Munich on business or otherwise!

[JonMarsh]

So sad you have to have everything workout with it looks like 3 sets of managers months before just to get a day off. I told my boss on Friday, see you next Tuesday. But your planning did pay off and your working on the Ardents! arty: I hope that sweet ride doesn't tug at you to much though. :W

I pickup wood today and we will see how long it will take me to punch out 2 component stands and the manifold for the 2-18" IB drivers.

It used to be like that for me... life is complicated right now. And next week I have a one on one with the VP of our division at his invitation to discuss a number of topics I've brought up in passing, some not related to this project but to my concerns about an overall company change in focus and organization, and the pitfalls I see in accomplishing that successfully which these managers new to their jobs may not anticipate (either new to the company, like VP, or new to the range of divisional activities, like the director I report to).

we'll be at our own facility next Tuesday, because the team/group at the customer is moving to a new building about a mile and a half away next week- I'll be off Tuesday, too, to take GF in for some outpatient surgery- nothing too serious, but a good time to get out of the way, and as it requires general anesthesia, I need to driver her to say the least!

There's a ton of parts on the way for the ride, plus I'm doing some stretching exercises/yoga to aid in comfort for the sporting riding position (some of the gear addresses that, too, like the Helibars and some different foot pegs), so for a few weeks the scooter is just going to be a patio queen out back while it gets worked on!

This AM i'm refinishing headlights on GF's car, then back to the Ardents after lunch! If I'm really productive this weekend, I'll hopefully get back to the assembly work on the sub cabinet, too! Let us know how you're coming along with your projects! Tomorrow won't be productive, as GF usually drives her '62 356 in the Danville 4th of July parade with the Democrat's group in the parade.

Film at 11!

[JonMarsh]

Better living through 3M



3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System

I've been polishing the GF's headlights.... :B

This is a job that takes a smidgen of skilled labor, with an electric drill, but if you've ever wet sanded and polished out a lacquer finish, it's a familiar process... the ideal tool would be a 3" random orbital sander- and though I thought no such thing existed, 3" random orbital polishers for automotive detailing with hook and loop pads DO exist, which would be perfect - the drill is a bit trickier. Will order that today.



They do have video's online that highlight the technique, but the instructions that come with it are pretty good, too. Not sure I'd turn my daughter or GF's son loose on this, but we're going to try it with him; another set are on order for his Accord coupe, which needs it even more baldly than GF's Passat.

With the 3" random orbital polisher, no excuses- I ordered it today (I already have a double kit of the 3M 39008 on order for his Accord...)

BTW, it DOES work as well as the pictures on the kit and their web site show- done properly, it looks like a brand new lens.

[JonMarsh]

Finally figured out what this was... a new Honda model I saw at the dealer ship in Roseville, but didn't have time or inclination to ask about.

Looks like something either from Bladerunner or the Bat Cycle- uses the same FIT engine derived 700cc parallel twin as the NC700X and several other new bikes. It is very strange in the flesh... if you want to tell the world you ride to the beat of a different drummer, and get great gas mileage at the same time, while having a fair amount of storage, this might be your bike...



It appeals to me a bit just because it is so weird... :W

[cjd]

slightly different, and black... are you feeling the pull of the dark side again? It reminds me of Cadillac's design language - or classic Gundam or Evangelion (and probably countless others of which I am more ignorant.) I don't quite understand where a passenger sits - unless what I think is a rear footpeg is for something else entirely. Or does that seat back fold down for tandem riding?

Garage tentatively acquired - waiting on signatures from the seller to move into 2 months of ambiguity during which anything can happen to make us start over, but... when more paperwork and process hurdles have been crossed, I'll have to start a new HT build thread Before the HT will be setting up a real live (permanent!) workshop... *giddy*

[5th element]

I do like the look of that bike, it does have a futuristic tech look as CJD said. It's called the NM4 and as a bit of searching turned up, it is styled after anime bikes. Some of the other pictures look rather more wacky.

The perspective in the picture Jon posted is a little confusing, as it looks quite different when viewed like this and in different colours.



Apparently the version in America comes with the extra storage as standard, but elsewhere there are two versions the NM4 and NM4-02. The latter comes with storage whilst the former does not.

I have to say, that when you see someone sat on it, it doesn't look anywhere near as big.

[JonMarsh]

I like the two tone look better. But I tell ya, the one I saw at the Roseville dealer just didn't look as small as the picture you've got with the guy sitting on it. I wonder how tall he is?

Bat Bike


The pockets built in to the lower front of the saddle bags appear to be where the heel of the passenger goes.



The handle bars are kind of weird, too, to me- long wide ones with hardly any pull back in the bars, just the mount coming back.

[5th element]

Not to poke the stereotype too badly, but he appears to be Japanese, he can't be that tall. There was a Japanese woman sitting on one too, now she was of the tall and slender variety, as they usually are, but she made the bike look smaller than you'd think too. Maybe they are just giants though.

[JonMarsh]

Let's get back on topic. the next section probably isn't very needed for the hard core DIY guys, but is provided to show how I terminate the wiring leads and have been putting things together in my own OCD kind of way.

Cardas SE11 stripped for the tweeter connections, and AWG bus wire used to create "pigtails".



The SE-11 is a concentric litz wire speaker cable, one conductor inside the other, reasonably low inductance but no where near as expensive to manufacture as stuff like Neutral Reference or Golden Reference. About AWG 11 according to Cardas.

It's a particular help to do the pigtails with the tweeter...




Here's some of the woofer wiring cables terminated the same way.




Here's what the complete woofer cable looks like after assembly, including the terminal block for the series connection:



Here the woofer cable is installed in the cabinet; this is where the right angle Dewalt drill comes in real handy.




Here I've pigtail soldered the midrange driver, prior to installation using the stainless Reports screws:





Now I'm ready for the woofer installation.



With the woofers I go a step further and stress relief tie wrap the cables to the woofer frame.





It's also a good idea to use some kind of plate and board to set the woofer on, because even fairly hardened lacquer isn't really all that hard, or difficult to mar.




The cabinet has been stuffed with three bags of acoustic stuff- but long fiber wool in the midrange enclosure.




The finished cabinet is QUITE heavy, considering the size! I'm sure those Wavecor woofers have a big role in that. Last step is going to be wiring up and mounting the crossover base plate- stay tuned, later this weekend.