Curved Dayton RS TMWW Speaker Build

[lcolbur1]

Here's my curved Dayton RS TMWW build (in pictures) so far. Thanks to Dennis Murphy for answering my questions and designing such awesome speakers! Also, thanks to mike 323, Brian Walter, and Prototrax for posting curved speaker enclosure info and inspiration!

[john trials]

Those look really nice!!!!!!

[Cort]

Inspiring design, simple elegant technique. Thanks

[Txgrizzly]

very nice!!! cant wait to see the finished product!!!

[Dean100]

Very nice work! :T

[AdelaaR]

Nice

[richnen]

Looks great!

[Silver1omo]

Looking really good!

[NickS]

Am I missing something, or do you have one too many woofer cutouts?

[AdelaaR]

Am I missing something, or do you have one too many woofer cutouts?

The man has a point!

[saabracer23]

I think one may be a port

Dan

[WesL]

The bottom hole isnt chamfered inside, I was wondering the same thing though. Hmm

[Hdale85]

Don't think so.....that would be the biggest port I've ever seen even for a flared port. Looks like it's the same size as the driver cutouts as well.

[dar47]

Don't think so.....that would be the biggest port I've ever seen even for a flared port. Looks like it's the same size as the driver cutouts as well.

Gees, Am I missing a driver on mine? ops: What Tweet version are you rocking? Love the cabs.

[lcolbur1]

Am I missing something, or do you have one too many woofer cutouts?

Thanks for the comment. That's actually my crossover access point. The front will be covered with a removable front baffle and the speaker in general will be sealed.

Also, if anyone was wondering, I routed the hardboard holes a half inch larger than the MDF so I could put gasket tape around them that compresses to 1/8th inch. This way I hope to achieve a tight seal around the drivers without any gap between the front baffle and speaker.

[BigJim_inFLA]

Sweet looking build. Very nice technique. I almost wish I had seen this before I started my latest project. I might have gone the curved side route. :T

Jim

[john trials]

How did you trim the overhang? It seems it would be a tough job using a flush-trim router bit (especially on the baffle, where the sides are curved).

[snmhanson]

How did you trim the overhang? It seems it would be a tough job using a flush-trim router bit (especially on the baffle, where the sides are curved).

I used the same building technique when I built my speakers and the flush trim router worked extremely well for me - other than on the back. Because of the lack of ninety degree angle on the back, flushing the backs out it involved a sanding board and burning forearms for me. I see though that the sides on this curve do actually bend in a bit so I am curious how the OP tackled this as well. Great looking build by the way. Don't see dadoed construction too often on this board but I'm sure it will result in very solid construction. Did you use a specific radius for the curve on the sides? How are you going to finish them?

Matt

[Solid7]

Because of the lack of ninety degree angle on the back, flushing the backs out it involved a sanding board and burning forearms for me. I see though that the sides on this curve do actually bend in a bit so I am curious how the OP tackled this as well.

You can actually bolt your router to another board, and let the bit hang offset over the edge of said board. Then, adjust it down to the level that you want to flush to. This creates an offset attachment for getting close, if not perfectly flush. This works as long as you have a flat surface. (think about it as if you are using a planer)

Do you understand what I am saying?

[Hdale85]

If you have a good hand plane you could use that as well.

[snmhanson]

You can actually bolt your router to another board, and let the bit hang offset over the edge of said board. Then, adjust it down to the level that you want to flush to. This creates an offset attachment for getting close, if not perfectly flush. This works as long as you have a flat surface. (think about it as if you are using a planer)

Do you understand what I am saying?

Yeah, I think I got it. That makes sense as long as the sides are flat (like you said). With the curved sides though it seems as though the board rocking on the curvature would be a concern but I guess a bit of shimming could take care of that. Wish I would have though of that when I was building my speakers. Next time I guess...

[cbark]

You can actually bolt your router to another board, and let the bit hang offset over the edge of said board. Then, adjust it down to the level that you want to flush to. This creates an offset attachment for getting close, if not perfectly flush. This works as long as you have a flat surface. (think about it as if you are using a planer)

Do you understand what I am saying?

Good idea, but because you are not 90 degrees in this application, you would use a straight cut bit?

[Solid7]

Good idea, but because you are not 90 degrees in this application, you would use a straight cut bit?

I assumed that we were talking about the back of the speaker, which is flat. If the curved side runs into a flat, you cut it flush with the flat. Imagine running a planer flat across the long longitudinal surface on the back of the speaker where the curved sides meet. Your offset rests on this surface, while your standard end cutting bit trims away the curved edge.

Now if you are talking about the edges that protrude over the top, you just lay the whole thing down on a router table, and gently rock it back and forth with a template bit running on the top flat surface. Or use the above method here, also. Piece of cake.

There isn't anything on this particular speaker that can't be cut with a hand router.

[Solid7]

Yeah, I think I got it. That makes sense as long as the sides are flat (like you said). With the curved sides though it seems as though the board rocking on the curvature would be a concern but I guess a bit of shimming could take care of that. Wish I would have though of that when I was building my speakers. Next time I guess...

You don't run the offset on the curved surface. You could most certainly rock it on a router table, but you can also use the same method on the top of the speaker. Just leave a bit at the end of the curved side, so that you don't blow out the cut, and delaminate (chip, shred, whatever you want to call it) the side panels.

[Warrant]

While not exactly what they're designed for, a trim aka flushcut saw would work, I'm sure.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/japanese/32928-veritas-flush-cutting-saws?item=05K3601

[fjhuerta]

Beautiful speaker... I love curved baffles. Maybe someday I'll dare to build one.

[lcolbur1]

Thanks for the great comments!

What Tweet version are you rocking?

I'll be using the SEAS Prestige 27TBFC/G (H1212) Aluminum/Magnesium Dome.

Did you use a specific radius for the curve on the sides? How are you going to finish them?

I used a template for the sides, seen here:

https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?p=265335#post265335

I'm going to apply some paper back cherry veneer to the sides, top, and back with some contact cement.

As for trimming the edges, I ended up just using a belt sander. I basically sanded the excess plywood/MDF off until there was only about 1/16 inch left. Then I just used a sander until it was flush. Maybe not the best way to do it. Getting a feel for the belt sander took a while, but it actually worked out very well. I just finished gluing the 4 sides of HDF to the sides, so I'll post more pics shortly!

[JonP]

I used the same building technique when I built my speakers and the flush trim router worked extremely well for me - other than on the back. Because of the lack of ninety degree angle on the back, flushing the backs out it involved a sanding board and burning forearms for me.
Matt

Great upper body workout, eh? Heh... brings back memories. Even just a pair of Modula MT's (11x17x12") cabs were a lot to slide around on a sanding board, but I was going for perfect flat faces before veneering. Thought I was going to look like Popeye before I was done... 8O

Though I daresay something this big, you were sliding your board around on the boxes, rather than the other way around?

A sanding board (mine is a 48"x6" sanding belt, split and glued down) gives a nice flat reference for all kinds of use, leveling a side of a box, getting a edge flat all around for the baffle to snugly glue on, as well as this kind of thing, getting the edges flush with a face. None of the cupping/curving you sometimes get if you're not careful, with hand sanding or a orbital.

I want to try curved cabs too.. Sounds like the get it really close with the router, then flush it with the sanding board would be a good combo...

Can't wait to see these in the Cherry!!

[lcolbur1]

The cabs are done. I'll post the front baffles shortly

[Txgrizzly]

what is that final layer, masonite? are you painting that or covering with wood grain laminate?

[lcolbur1]

what is that final layer, masonite? are you painting that or covering with wood grain laminate?

Yes, the final layer is masonite aka HDF aka hardboard. Ill be covering it with a wood veneer

[Randall Kepley]

Icolbur1 , have you abandoned the project? can wait to see your next step. Thanks R.K.

[lcolbur1]

Icolbur1 , have you abandoned the project? can wait to see your next step. Thanks R.K.

Hey,

Sorry for the delay. I took a short break, but hopefully will post the front baffles shortly as they're very close to being done. Thanks for the interest!!

[BigguyZ]

I'm interested too!

Especially since I'm also using Hardboard/masonite/HDF and veneering it.

According the Joe Woodwoker.com, the glues used dont' attach well to HDF, but I'm hoping that's not the case.... I just got some amazing waterfall Bubinga.

[lcolbur1]

Here are the completed front baffles. I used a sink bit to get the side edges to match the curve of the front. Like this, only with a 20 degree off set:

[lcolbur1]

Oh, and in terms of the veneering, I tried a test piece on MDF with contact cement and it worked really well. I gave the HDF a good sanding, so hopefully it will bond just as well. I may have to wait a few weeks to start the veneering/painting process because it's too cold out for the contact cement to work properly.

[Fishy]

Like the touch of the bress bolts conencting them to the speaker body.

Fish

[dar47]

Oh, and in terms of the veneering, I tried a test piece on MDF with contact cement and it worked really well. I gave the HDF a good sanding, so hopefully it will bond just as well. I may have to wait a few weeks to start the veneering/painting process because it's too cold out for the contact cement to work properly.

Sure you don't want to try the glue method, I think it produces a flatter surface and is less hit or miss. Are you going to do the matching centre? I almost did the 3-ways for surrounds but went with Zaph's L18 they are a good match same tweet.
Nice work so far and your going to love the sound.

[lcolbur1]

Sure you don't want to try the glue method, I think it produces a flatter surface and is less hit or miss. Are you going to do the matching centre? I almost did the 3-ways for surrounds but went with Zaph's L18 they are a good match same tweet.
Nice work so far and your going to love the sound.

Which glue method are you referring to? Iron on? I could give it a shot. As of now I probably won't build the center, but perhaps in the future.

[dar47]

Which glue method are you referring to? Iron on? I could give it a shot. As of now I probably won't build the center, but perhaps in the future.

Yes iron on if you are using paper back veneer, I have done 3 builds with contact and 3 with iron on and the contact didn't last. I think iron on has better holding strength and looks flatter. You could try each on some scrap. The trick is to practice. Would be a good poll question though. See https://www.afterness.com/audio/veneering.html

[FlashJim]

Dang ... I can't see the pics here at work.

I can't wait to see them when I get home!

[lcolbur1]

Here's some more progress. Pictures of the dampening material and caulk around some of the seams (I wanted to make them as sealed as possible). I also started wiring them and recessed the threads for the front baffle bolts. I suppose my next set of pics will be of the veneering.

[dar47]

Nice, looking good.
What method of veneering are you going with?

[lcolbur1]

I finally got around to veneering cabs. I ended up using a cherry veneer with contact cement, which went very well. Here are the pics. The painting and staining will be the next set.

[FlashJim]

Thanks for posting this pic. I've always wanted a closeup of the corner. I've never veneered before and wondered how it looked.

I can't wait to see the finish on these!