Dayton RS TMWW, I need some help!

[Andy Shoppa]

First off, I just want to say what a nice forum this is, I've spent about an hour on here in the evenings in the past week looking at old posts and enjoying some of your builds.

I have been searching for new speakers and I think I am ready to try and tackle the Dayton RS TMWW and possibly the WMTW Center and some smaller surrounds in the future.

I'm planning on ordering all of the necessary components sometime in mid July and getting started sometime in early August. I really liked the CAD drawings of the sealed TMWW enclosure and will most likely just be duplicating that design, along with using Dennis's crossover design.

I have a few questions though.

Was the crossover designed for the shielded drivers, or the unshielded ones? I noticed that the specs for each is different.

Can someone point me towards a post or site on how to correctly wire up these crossover components? I've never done this before.

Will my Yamaha receiver be enough to power these speakers to a reasonable playback level (mid 90 db's)?

Thanks for the help, I'm going to do some more lurking and probably read the whole thread on the Dayton RS speakers later on this evening.

Andy

[m1ke323]

Andy, I am currently building the RS 3-Way TMWW design as well. Dennis's crossovers call for the following drivers:

DAYTON RS28A-4 Unshielded http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=275-130
DAYTON RS150S-8 Shielded http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=295-362
DAYTON RS225S-8 Shielded http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=295-366

As far as building the crossover, I am in the dark still as well. For how much power then can take and how efficient they are, I have no idea haha.

Mike

[Jim Holtz]

First off, I just want to say what a nice forum this is, I've spent about an hour on here in the evenings in the past week looking at old posts and enjoying some of your builds.

I have been searching for new speakers and I think I am ready to try and tackle the Dayton RS TMWW and possibly the WMTW Center and some smaller surrounds in the future.

I'm planning on ordering all of the necessary components sometime in mid July and getting started sometime in early August. I really liked the CAD drawings of the sealed TMWW enclosure and will most likely just be duplicating that design, along with using Dennis's crossover design.

I have a few questions though.



Was the crossover designed for the shielded drivers, or the unshielded ones? I noticed that the specs for each is different.

Can someone point me towards a post or site on how to correctly wire up these crossover components? I've never done this before.

Will my Yamaha receiver be enough to power these speakers to a reasonable playback level (mid 90 db's)?

Thanks for the help, I'm going to do some more lurking and probably read the whole thread on the Dayton RS speakers later on this evening.

Andy

Welcome Andy! It's good to see a fellow Iowan into DIY. You made an excellent choice in designs. They sound excellent! :T

Here is an excellent tutorial on crossover assembly. http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_fi...xo/xoconst.htm

Mine never turn out as pretty as the ones some of the folks post but they seem to work fine.

Your receiver will be fine. They are an easy load for any receiver capable of a 4 ohm load which I assume yours is.

I'm in the Des Moines area. Are you anywhere close?

Jim

[Andy Shoppa]

Thanks for clearing up the drivers Mike.

Jim, Thanks for the link to the crossover tutorial, I sort of have a better idea, but I am sure that I'll be posting some rather stupid questions when I get this stuff in hand ready to assemble. I'm over in Muscatine IA, about 30 minutes south of the Quad Cities.

[Mudjock]

Hey Andy,

I live in the Quad Cities, so I might be able to help. My electronics skills are generally acceptable, but my woodworking is brutal - so I usually stick with premade cabinets.

Scott

[chasw98]

Here is how I did my crossovers for the WWMT. I used unclad FR4 1/16" PC boards available from Injectorall ( http://www.injectorall.com/unclad.htm ). Using a 1/32" drill bit, I laid out the components and put the leads through the PC board and soldered them together. It takes some planning but I found some mechanical strength is gained from wiring through the board. After soldering and testing the crossover, I used silicone to "attach" the components to the PC board along with wire ties for the larger components. If you ever have to take it apart, the silicone will release fairly easily and you could swap or replace components.



This is a picture of the mid and hi portion of the crossover. I built the lo section on another piece of board mounted seperately.

Chuck