Another NeoD CC Build

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  • Doug Fraser
    Member
    • Apr 2004
    • 62

    #1

    Another NeoD CC Build

    After what seems to be an eternity, I have finally finished a pair of the NeoD CC’s.

    I was fortunate enough to get the tweeters before they were hard to get. In fact I like these speakers so much I have 5 extra tweeters for 2 more stereo sets.

    As the speakers are destined for my bedroom and there really isn’t any room for a traditional cube sub (may be an IB in the future – who knows), I wanted extended base response, so I took Jon’s advice and built larger boxes.

    The boxes (outside) are 33” x 9” x 13.5”. This yields 1.64 cubic ft box. With crossovers, bracing and speaker the volume is estimated to be 1.4 cubic feet. This follows Jon’s recommendation of a bigger box with 46 l gross (1.6 cubic feet) yielding 40 l net volume (1.4 cubic feet).

    Following the instructions from other posts, the baffles (per the original design) are 9” wide so as not to mess up the BSC and the drivers are spaced as per the original design so the speakers can either be stood upright or laid flat.

    I really liked the looks of the Zaph’s ZDT3.5 center channel with the two forward firing ports.

    DIY (Do it yourself): Cabinetry, speakers, subwoofers, crossovers, measurements. Jon and Thomas have probably designed and built as many speakers as any non-professionals. Who are we kidding? They are pros, they just don't do it for a living. This has got to be one of the most advanced places on the net to talk speaker building, period.


    Using this idea, the NeoD CC’s I built have 2 forward firing ports and the speakers have a definite ZDT 3.5 center channel look.

    The two, 2” ports are tuned to 33 Hz. The ports are 9” long and have a combine area of 6.28 sq inches. WinSpeakerz recommends a minimum vent area of 5.25 sq inches to avoid port noise. I have played the speakers quite (very) loud and so far have not heard any port noise.

    Click image for larger version

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    Here is a picture of the front of the speakers

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    I used all air core inductors with solid wire (no foil). Most of the larger gauge coils (12 and 14 gauge) came from Solen while the smaller gauge coils from PE. A combination of Dayton and Solen Cap’s were used. I am not sure I can hear the difference between these and more expensive caps, that’s just me, each to their own.

    I was very surprised as to just how big and heavy the crossovers are when they are assembled. The 12 and 14 gauge coils are heavy and the 100 uF caps are huge! Solen list the coils on their web site but many of them are wound to order. The Solen coils took about two weeks to get to me. Not a big deal as this was a slow roll project.

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    The coils were placed on the board following the guidelines as set out here



    Thank-you Thomas for posting the link in the following post



    The internal wiring is all 14 gauge multi strand copper wire that I got from my local auto supply house. I used 12 gauge wire for the woofers. Probably overkill, but isn’t that what DIY is all about?

    I used joint connector bolts to attach the rear panel. Good thing because I had miss wired one of the crossover’s and it was very easy to get access to it to fix it.

    Here is the thread that list sources

    DIY (Do it yourself): Cabinetry, speakers, subwoofers, crossovers, measurements. Jon and Thomas have probably designed and built as many speakers as any non-professionals. Who are we kidding? They are pros, they just don't do it for a living. This has got to be one of the most advanced places on the net to talk speaker building, period.


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    The boxes are reasonably well braced. Again, I borrowed from Zaph and used a bracing scheme very similar to the ZDT3.5 center channel. The center hole in the side braces is aligned to support the port.

    Continued in next post....
    Last edited by theSven; 09 March 2023, 20:21 Thursday. Reason: Update image location
  • Doug Fraser
    Member
    • Apr 2004
    • 62

    #2
    I reinforced the front baffle by adding pieces of Eastern maple that I had left over from another project. I used Minwax Wood Hardener on all of the speaker rabbets and on the edges after routing a round over. MDF treated with wood hardener allows the screws to really bite in. There is no mushy feel like you are about to strip the screw out of the MDF.

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    All of the driver were recessed and mounted flush. There is no way my wife will allow the speakers in if there are strips of wool around the tweeter. So I decided to flush mount the tweeter. The difficult part is that the tweeter is not round, so a Jasper circle cutting jig will not work. I used the technique described in this link:



    At first I thought the Vifa tweeter was too small and the corners to acute for the technique described in the above link to work. However the technique worked very well!

    Thank-you Thomas for posting the link in the



    The cabinet is assembled using Red Carpet Welcome and General Topics biscuits. You can see them in the image above. There have been some recent posts of guys assembling cabinets and having the wood slide around when clamping. Biscuits completely eliminate any movement and provide accurate alignment. If you use the outside of the wood as the reference face when cutting the biscuit slots then you don’t have to worry about small variations in the thickness of the MDF. A biscuit jointer is a very worth while investment!

    So how do they sound?

    This is what I always want to read when some one builds a design. However I have just realized how difficult this is to write.

    I listen to them in my living room where I have a Classe DR-8 (150 watts/Ch into 8 ohms), Classe PRE AMP and a pair of B&W 802’s Series 2 (that I paid $5000 for in 1992).

    My first observation is that the NeoD CC’s are in the same league as the B&W’s but they do sound different. The 802’s are brighter. However at times they sound harsh. The 802 always have sounded good to me however after listening to the NeoD’s for a couple of weeks the 802’s now sound like they have more distortion.

    The NeoD’s are not as sensitive as the 802’s. I have to turn up the volume about 8 dB to get similar in room volume levels. This is really not an issue as the 150 watt amp easily pushes the NeoD’s very loud. In fact, party loud!

    The bass on the NeoD CC’s seems to be more controlled than the B&W 802’s. The bass seems to start and stop quicker. Kind of like the difference between turn signals with LED’s or incandescent bulbs. When LED’s turn off there is no decay in the light intensity – it just turns off right now! I know that is a weird analogy but it is the best I can think of. Perhaps this difference is attributable to the difference in the alignment of the two speakers.

    With the NeoD CC’s the integration between the drivers is excellent. I can not tell what driver the sound is coming from – the drivers just seem to disappear. I guess this is what the Duelund cross over does? These speakers are very neutral and have excellent detail. They sound very clean.

    Conclusion

    The build took longer than I though it would. I must have read the two threads below a bazillion times:

    Speaker Camp
    Update 9/3/07, the official build thread for these speakers is located in the link below https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27218 Here's some guy fine tuning the CAD drawing for the front baffles.... For obvious reasons we can't show the face of the person in these photographs....and if you think these


    NeoD CC Build thread


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    The speakers sound fantastic.

    Thank you Jon and Thomas for all your effort and the great design!

    Doug
    Last edited by theSven; 09 March 2023, 20:23 Thursday. Reason: Update image location and URLs for htguide

    Comment

    • ---k---
      Ultra Senior Member
      • Nov 2005
      • 5205

      #3
      Great post!

      It is starting to sound like these are really magical speakers. You mind sharing what your total cost was. I've always wondered what substituting regular caps and air core inductors would do to the price.
      - Ryan

      CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
      CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
      CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

      Comment

      • JonMarsh
        Mad Max Moderator
        • Aug 2000
        • 16038

        #4
        Great looking build, Doug! :T I've been thinking about a larger build for these for myself, and yours is an interesting concept to consider, too! I've got a couple of pairs of the Jantzen 6012, which is like a ridiculously expensive version of the HiVi D6.8, so putting another pair of these together is sometime in my future- I have all the drivers, just finding myself kind of busy... :W

        Glad you enjoy them, and thanks for putting up the nice posts!

        ~Jon
        the AudioWorx
        Natalie P
        M8ta
        Modula Neo DCC
        Modula MT XE
        Modula Xtreme
        Isiris
        Wavecor Ardent

        SMJ
        Minerva Monitor
        Calliope
        Ardent D

        In Development...
        Isiris Mk II updates- in final test stage!
        Obi-Wan
        Saint-Saëns Symphonique/AKA SMJ-40
        Modula PWB
        Calliope CC Supreme
        Natalie P Ultra
        Natalie P Supreme
        Janus BP1 Sub


        Resistance is not futile, it is Volts divided by Amperes...
        Just ask Mr. Ohm....

        Comment

        • kravi4ka
          Member
          • Feb 2006
          • 90

          #5
          Great Post, Doug!

          You have taken great care in building the crossovers, beautifully arranged and put together!
          The box looks great too. What did you use for the internal wiring?

          Comment

          • Doug Fraser
            Member
            • Apr 2004
            • 62

            #6
            Thanks for all the kind comments.

            In my write up I really wanted to demonstrate that there are people (me) who read the posts and the FAQ . They certainly made the build much easier.

            The most difficult part was the crossovers. Jon certainly lived up to reputation in this area. Having said that the speakers sound fantastic - clearly a function of the cross over design. The really amazing part about these speakers is the integration of the drivers and low distortion. I previously thought my B&W 802`s were near perfection. After listening to the NeoD CC`s I can now hear the distortion in the 802`s.

            So far 4 friends have listed to both speakers and we all like the NeoD CC`s better.

            ---K---:

            I did not track the cost of the components so I don`t have a total cost. I acquired all of the parts over about a 6 month period.

            kravi4ka:

            I used wire that I picked up at a local automotive supply house (Lordco - here in BC, CANADA). Multi strand copper, 12 and 14 gauge - nothing exotic - just good quality stranded wire.

            Similarly all of the connectors (ring and spade) were purchased there to - nothing exotic. When I crimped the connectors on the wire I also applied solder to them to guarantee that there would be a good connection.

            Regards,
            Doug
            Last edited by Doug Fraser; 30 August 2009, 12:49 Sunday.

            Comment

            • Jonasz
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2004
              • 854

              #7
              Awesome looking build there Doug!

              The bass on the NeoD CC’s seems to be more controlled than the B&W 802’s. The bass seems to start and stop quicker. Kind of like the difference between turn signals with LED’s or incandescent bulbs. When LED’s turn off there is no decay in the light intensity – it just turns off right now! I know that is a weird analogy but it is the best I can think of. Perhaps this difference is attributable to the difference in the alignment of the two speakers.
              This analogy suits the difference between dipole- and box-bass also. :B

              Comment

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