Club Musical Fidelity

[musical physic]

I have just purchased a KW550 recently and I have encountered this problem as well. Is it the remote or the amp itself? I was thinking of purchasing a Logitech Universal remote as I have one of the original X-Ray CD players and the remote won't operate the CD controls anyway. I think it only works with A5 CD players onwards.

Has anyone else been down this route? I'd hate to buy the new remote just to find out that it won't work. The Logitech website says yes to X-Rays and KW550s BTW.

Incidentally, turning the amp off and on hasn't cleared the problem.

Also I should say that the amp, although still running in, is everything I hoped it would be so it must sound a little churlish to be moaning about the remote. Not a complaint - more a minor niggle and a request for help/info!!

Congrats on your new purchase. I do believe that you are getting interference from an electronic device in the same room. I know my cd transport remote does not work 100% when I have my LCD tv in operation.

I use the MF A1 FBP remote to control my NSD transport as they both use the same Phillips remote codes.

I also tried to use a universal remote. I tried out one of those Sony remote commanders (man this thing is huge). It did solve the problem however it introduced another problem where thevolume control to the A1 will not function normally. It only sets the volume setting you program it to set weird shit. So I just let things be and use the controls on the units soemtimes.

Try before you buy the logitech remote would be ideal if not make sure you can get your money back if doesnt work 100% to your satisfaction.

Cheers :T

[uncle_dito]

Kw Dm25 Dac

Dear forum colleagues,
Anybody have any experience with the KW DM25 DAC? How does it sound vs A5CD? or A1008 CD?; Any comparison with the latest Audio Research DAC 7? or maybe the Marantz cd SA-7S1?

I am currently looking at DACs. I have MF A5 CD, and also use the DAC included in A1008 amplifier. When I have used MF A5 CD as transport into the A1008 DAC, I have not seen differences between A5 CD and the A1008 DAC output when fed by A5CD. Would the KW DM25 make a difference?
Many thanks for your comments.

[cyanide]

A1008 amp

I also got issues with the volume knob :x crackling noise when I turn up the volume.

[KahunaCanuck]

I have heard that could be your tubes going...

[Gutty]

Any of you guys running an A5.5 CD ?

How hot does it get ? Recieved mine last week, and expected a little heat from it, just not sure how much is normal. Nothing i'm real worried about, just thought i'd ask.

BTW, the A5.5 has finished off my 2ch system, very happy with it indeed.

[SoundEngine355]

according to a number of UK retailers the A5.5 CD is EOL and going to be replaced???

Wonder if its true or not.

[handeeguy]

Musical Fidelity A5 CD Player stop working

Hello ,
I hope someone can give me advice. I have A5 CD player that I purchased used 2yrs ago and it has worked without a problem until last night. It would begin to play a selection but stop in the middle and would not respond to commands via remote or buttons on the unit except eject. Before it stopped I heard a low scrap or crackle. I would then have to eject, reinsert the disc and it would repeat with the same problem of stopping in the middle of playing. I can put in a different disc and the player will read "No Disc" even though the disc is place properly. The trouble shooting section in the owner manual was not helpful and I didn't see a discussion of similar problem in this thread. Can this be fix or is this the end? What do you think.
Thanks for you help

Charles

[CSMAB]

Tri-Vista SACD vs MF A1008 CD???

I currently have the Tri-Vista SACD player. Can anyone tell me if the MF A1008 CD player would be a step up with redbook CDs?

Thanks

[alebonau]

I currently have the Tri-Vista SACD player. Can anyone tell me if the MF A1008 CD player would be a step up with redbook CDs?

Thanks

hmm would be a step back I reckon, have you had any experience with the a1008 ? the trivista range is in a whole another realm I think. the trivista is an absolute beauty and think youd have to be aiming somewhere like kw series and above to better it

I would sit back and continue to enjoy your tri-vista with the knowledge you have something pretty special there

[HDBLU]

Hi all

Is there going to be a New Power amp out to replace the A5cr with say the new A5-5cr.

[kukuradogs]

Help required

I'm new to the forum but have had Musical Fedility equipment for years.

I'm looking to sell an A300 pre/power amps and A300 CD setup which I bought a few years back. Anyone seen anything like this sell recently in the UK if so for what price?

[HDBLU]

Does the A1008 have bypass HT So you can use it in a Multichannel Theater.

[Audio_ElF]

A1008 HT Bypass

Short answer: Yes - Aux input is switchable on back panel.

Longer answer: Yes, but I find need to wiggle volume control to get the amp to goto correct level coming in and out HT Bypass mode.

Eloise

[themite]

How do i make the x-as100 into a single monoblock of 60 amps

Hi, i am new to this forum and happy to see there is a sub group specialized in MF
Found this place after scrathing my head and choosing not to risk blowing my amp by taking a risk and instead try to solve my issue the smart way asking for advice by chaps who may have some experience in the field.

This after having learned my lesson in the past often taking chances and finding out that the 50% risk of killing and messing it all up, just seem to happen more frequently for me than statistically half of the time.
So i figure this time i won´t do it the russian roulette way.

Any way i just can´t seem to find any clear info on how to make the Musical Fidelity X-as100 into a single monobloc of 60 amps.

The hints i have found are via the MF manual for X-as100 1st example, but it´s seems to make the stereo amp into 2 mono amps for bi-amping one speaker.

The spec sheet say´s:
'Mono' button. By 'mono-ing' the X-AS100 and joining the speaker connections, the X-AS100 can be turned into a 100 watt, 60 amp monobloc. This allows a second unit to be added, for a stereo pair. This simple upgrade path gives even greater dynamic control.
What does joining the speaker connections mean?
For the XP-200 amp the manual explains how to bridge the amp, but no such info is in the manual for the x-as100.

In another thread a user uses the expression: Bridged to mono 100w into 8ohms or 200w into 4ohms but with 60 amps of peak current output.

Now i am confused, i have two x-as100 and just connected the right side speaker output + and - of one amp, and the other amp the left side speaker output + and -, and the experienced a marginally better impact in sound, but i suspect one channel of each amp isn´t being used and the "improvement" i experience is due to the external power supply´s giving all juice to just 1 channel of each amp.

Anyone who can explain to me how i amke the X-as100 into a "pure" monoblock with 60 amps.
Do i connect the left side speaker output (-) and the right side speaker output (+) in conjuntion with pressing the mono button, would this be "bridged to mono" and is this the same as "joining the speaker connections".
I just haven´t had the guts to take the chance :S.
Anyone with experience in the matter who could help me out.

Thanks for any help in the matter.

cheers from Patrik

[HDBLU]

Short answer: Yes - Aux input is switchable on back panel.

Longer answer: Yes, but I find need to wiggle volume control to get the amp to goto correct level coming in and out HT Bypass mode.

Eloise

Thanks That good to know, What do you mean when you have to wiggle the volume knob. If it on HT Direct the knob should not work!.

[Audio_ElF]

Thanks That good to know, What do you mean when you have to wiggle the volume knob. If it on HT Direct the knob should not work!.

It's kind of weird ... Yes I agree the volume control shouldn't work, but (on my A1008 anyway) the internal logic circuits kind of get "stuck" at re previus volume until you move the volume knob. It's literally just needing moved a fraction of a degree.

Just a MF quirk. Talking to the dealer all the A1008s they've sold have been the same.

Eloise

[HDBLU]

It's kind of weird ... Yes I agree the volume control shouldn't work, but (on my A1008 anyway) the internal logic circuits kind of get "stuck" at re previus volume until you move the volume knob. It's literally just needing moved a fraction of a degree.

Just a MF quirk. Talking to the dealer all the A1008s they've sold have been the same.

Eloise

That does not sound to good for an 8k Amplifier, When I bought my first A5 the volume knob would stop half way up, when using the remote it got too tight the motor was not powerful enough to turn it, Because who put the knob on he put the washer on back to front, I got it fixed on the second day I owned it I was not very happy.

Do you know if they have fixed the problem on the A1008 on there later ones.

[Music4Life]

I am considering buying the MF A1 CD player. How will it compare to the A5.5 CDP. I got a chance to listen to it as demo but not with A1. With CD Pro2 mechanism on board, is it worth the price difference? Looks and build quality of A5.5 is superior than that of A1 but sound quality?

[alebonau]

I am considering buying the MF A1 CD player. How will it compare to the A5.5 CDP. I got a chance to listen to it as demo but not with A1. With CD Pro2 mechanism on board, is it worth the price difference? Looks and build quality of A5.5 is superior than that of A1 but sound quality?

as an owner of the a5 cd I'd see the a1 as a step down. the lovely part of the a5/a5.5 cd are the lovely analog outputs with the valves they run.

the a1 is a little quirky in styling too, youd have to be a mf fan from way back to to appreciate in the looks department I reckon

[HDBLU]

I found a book laying around my house, It is how Antony Michaelson started out.
enjoy

Musical Fidelity History

In the spring of 1982, my wife and I were made redundant on the same day. To stop myself from going crazy. I had to do something apart from sending out copies of my CV to employment agencies, so I began building a preamp. My first company, a partnership which made valve amps, had gone bust some time before. I was stuck with a mediocre preamp from thatventure in my hi-fi system and wanted something better. As I was skint, I built it myself, working at the kitchen table, and housed it in an unpainted aluminium box. It wasn't my intention to start a new audio company, only to make something that I could enjoy listening to at home.

Fate intervenes.

However, fate intervened, in the form of howard popeck, at that time the owner of subjective audio. Howard heard the preamp and loved it. He thought he could sell them at subjective if they were in proper cases and said he'd take three for starters.

But what to call the new company? And the new product? well the preamp had been designed to deliver greater musical fidelity...and thus it was that The Preamp, the first product from Musical Fidelity, went into production on my kitchen table. The money to buy parts came from my mother- in-law ($200), my wife (small cash advance) and my overstretched credit card.

Howard paid on the spot when he collected the first tree The Preamps. They all sold the next Saturday. Subjective placed an order for more and paid immediately. Howard continued to do this for the first six or eight months, which really helped our cash flow. Subjective had an exclusive for a while, but when it seemed that Musical Fidelity might turn into something more than a kitchen table venture, I started to sell to other shops.

Going full time.

At this point, production moved out of the kitchen into my garage. It had no power, so I fan an extension lead from the back window of my first floor flat, across the garden it shared with three other flats, and into the garage, I hammered together shelves and workbenches, bought parts, recruited friends and family to assemble and test, and set to work. Within weeks, I was under pressure to make a matching power amlifier.

During this period, I was working at a new fulltime job. I started work at 7am, finished at 3pm and after a quick bite, it"d be out to the garage to build preamps late into the night for several months, until my wife gave me an ultimatum. She said I had three options. One, if I thought musical fidelity had a future, I should guit my day job to concentrate on it. Two , if I didn't think that Musical fidelity had a future, I should stop doing it right now. Or three, carry on doing both, but she'd be leaving as she never got to see me. I was young and newly-married. I chose option one.

Timely works.

The 'Dr Thomas, amplifier, named after its designer, was the company's second product. Like most British audio manufacturers, I concentrated on making amazing sound and put the electronics onto rudimentary boxes. Until, one day, an Italian reviewer asked me why, when the sound was so exceptional, were the surrounding visuals and casings basic, at best? Although I retorted that music was for listening to, not for looking at, this viewpoint was a revelation. When I got home, I contacted a top industrial designer, who completely rethought the appearance of Musical Fidelity's products.

A few things I have learned.

This was when I started to undertstand the tree elements that go into the making a hi-fi porduct: the components, circuit design and layout; the casework; and the manufacture. For a product to succeed, the balance has to be right.

Components, circuit design and layout.

Electronic components, circuit design and printed circuit board (PCB) layout, are the 'motor' of every audio product. The quality of the circuit design and layout absolutely determines the quality of the product. A well-designed circuit on a beautifully layout PCB allows components to achieve their potential and perform surprising feats.

Circuits are what it's all about. If the circuit is wrong, why bother putting it in a box? better the bin. There is never any excuse for failing in this fundamental area. Too many high-end companies put a mediocre or naive circuit into a fancy package, and hope that using expensive components, will somehow make everything okay. Not even most costly electronic components can redeem a poorly though out, badly developed circuit. anyway, we find that ordinary commercial components perform as well as, and often better then expensive ones. The difference, not inherent quality.

Other items to be factored in when making a power amp include the power supply, output transistors and heatsinks.

still more to come

[alebonau]

interesting reading BLU which book is it that you found with AMs MF history ?

[HDBLU]

interesting reading BLU which book is it that you found with AMs MF history ?

I found a book mixed in with my Hi-Fi- books which I did not know I had, the book it HEARING IS BELIEVING SINCE 1982 it a 37 page book that tells you all sort of preamp and power amp he made from the very beginning.

I had to hand write it so I will do the second page soon.

I will upload some Picture of Antony Michaelson at his work bench making his very first Preamp.

here is one Picture, if you what anymore tell me and I will upload more :T

[alebonau]

I found a book mixed in with my Hi-Fi- books which I did not know I had, the book it HEARING IS BELIEVING SINCE 1982 it a 37 page book that tells you all sort of preamp and power amp he made from the very beginning.

I had to head write it so I will do the second page soon.

I will upload some Picture of Antony Michaelson at his work bench making his very first Preamp.

that sounds like amazing stuff BLU, woudl be enthralling reading indeed. great find. and extremely nice of you to post here for us to read

[HDBLU]

I will post more tomorrow for you :T

Also check out my newer Setup

[HDBLU]

Here you go Al Part 2

The package

Next is the package. With The Preamp, the metalwork and front panel were made at a minimal cost. But minimal cost doesn't mean it has to look cheap. The A series, starting with the A1, is proof of this. We invented an entirely new visual idiom, with a gritty, slightly rough-edged look. It cost more to produce than a lightweight, 'tinny' box, but the balance was right. We tried a minimal approach again with the B1, designing a lightweight case which combined plastic and metal. Costs were weighted heavily towards components and circuitry (casework was about 25% of total cost). Its performance was amazing at the price, but audiophiles objected to the flimsy, 'plasticky' feel of the casework and the B1 wasn't a commercial success. In retrospect, I agree with them: the external quality should reflect what's inside.

Over the years, we have shifted the balance this way and that and found that people who purchase Musical Fidelity have an unerring nose for value.

Manufacturing efficiency.

The third cost element is manufacturing efficiency. Most high-end manufacturers are stuck in a chicken or egg dilemma. Because they charge such high prices, their volumes are low. But because their volumes are low, they have to charge high prices. Essentially, they're producing prototype quantities, the most expensive way of doing things. They're stuck because they don't (or won't) invest in production tooling. When they're made in prototype quantities, circuit boards will typically cost three to five times more than at production volumes. Prototype metalwork, made without production tooling, is painfully expensive. All three-dimensional features,knobs, front panels and heatsinks, have to be machined from solid. Typically, prototype metalwork costs about seven times more than production metalwork. When you make just a few of each product, assembly is slow and costly. In addition, a wide profit margin must be factored in to finance the manufacturer's inefficiency.

Because everything is made as a one-off, the consumer ends up paying through the nose. The irony is, they get a lot less, in terms of metalwork, electronics and performance, than they'd get for a lot less money from Musical Fidelity.

Musical Fidelity's manufacturing practices are highly efficient. The most obvious difference is that we invest heavily in production tooling. This enables us to produce superb metalwork and PCBs at the lowest possible cost per unit. Yes Musical Fidelity makes prototype, which we use as templates for production engineering. Often, we go through four or five versions of a PCB design to debug it before production. The same applies to metalwork. We design product ranges with electronic components in common, so that we can purchase them in bulk, paying the least for the best. Musical Fidelity's circuits are state-of-the-art, highly sophisticated, more researched and more reliable than our competitors, ' with carefully thought out PCB layouts to achieve the best performance. Our assembly is cost-efficient.

To my knowledge, our turnover per employee is the highest in the world in the high-end hi-fi industry. In other words, Musical Fidelity is the most efficient high-end manufacturer making hi-fi today. Because we're efficient, we can keep our profit margins narrow and offer good value for money.

Discerning customers.

If there's one thing that Musical Fidelity has shown the audio market, it's that the most expensive product isn't necessarily the best.

I feel strongly --no, I feel passionately-- that Musical Fidelity customers deserve nothing less than circuits that are the best that we can make at the price. (Electronic components are relatively cheap. In review after review, year after year, our products are compared favourably with those costing up to ten times as much. When I cost out our competitors' products, I marvel at their brass balls in charging what they do, but I don't think they're trying to gouge the consumer .they need to charge that much to survive their inefficiency.

Musical Fidelity customers do not fall for the mystique of the big price. They understand that we're pushing the outside of the envelope in audio performance. And though they might deny that looks matter when the sound is right, the truth is, they want well designed, high quality casework, too. And why not? I do, too. Just so long as we get the balance right.

[alebonau]

excellet reading blu, I actually owned a "the pre-amp" it was a 2nd iteration that mf re-invented in the 90s. I owned this for well over a decade and was a superb piece that I ran with the matching mf typhoons in their bridged mono bloc mode @150wpc. these followed the price break down for absolute minimum for casework. mf even gave a price percentage breakdown for these in an article showing how much they spent on the sound tech rather than fancy case work ! theyve had to up the price percentage on case work since I reckon to pander to the market. But kept good value in the sonics. their a5 range a good example where having demoed the a308 range prior they have somehow got a better sounding product selling in a lower price bracket all to the benefit of the customer

ps checked out your system pics. awesome stuff very nice front stage their in the scope setup ! wow !

[zerot]

Hi All,

I'm new to this thread and would appreciate your valued opinion. I'm sorry if this question has been already answered (I'll keep browsing through this thread). Namely, I have Mointor Audio RS6 + Rega Apollo + NAD C355BEE + Nordost Blue Heaven spekaer cables + ICs. I like my MAs but generally I'm not happy with the sound: it is kind of muddy and dull. Setup has been run in well by now. I definitively want to change my amp as I think the major culprit in this setup is my NAD (speakers are well positioned, toed in, etc ....). I did a lot of investigation in different AV user groups and learned that MA uses Musical Fidelity amps to test their speakers. I'm looking now into MF A5.5 amp - it is supposed to be a great amp, with lots of power, great musical image and sound-stage. Unfortunately I can't audition it yet since there is no local dealer here in Vancouver as we speak, but one local store should have it probably in a 3 week period. My music taste is classical, jazz, instrumental. Would someone who owns/has heard this amp share his/her thoughts on it?
Did anyone try to run it with Totem speakers (as they are one of the best for jazz, classical ...).

I also read that some MF amps had a hum issue. Does this apply on A5.5 amp or it has been solved?

Manny Thanks.

[HDBLU]

Hi All,

I'm new to this thread and would appreciate your valued opinion. I'm sorry if this question has been already answered (I'll keep browsing through this thread). Namely, I have Mointor Audio RS6 + Rega Apollo + NAD C355BEE + Nordost Blue Heaven spekaer cables + ICs. I like my MAs but generally I'm not happy with the sound: it is kind of muddy and dull. Setup has been run in well by now. I definitively want to change my amp as I think the major culprit in this setup is my NAD (speakers are well positioned, toed in, etc ....). I did a lot of investigation in different AV user groups and learned that MA uses Musical Fidelity amps to test their speakers. I'm looking now into MF A5.5 amp - it is supposed to be a great amp, with lots of power, great musical image and sound-stage. Unfortunately I can't audition it yet since there is no local dealer here in Vancouver as we speak, but one local store should have it probably in a 3 week period. My music taste is classical, jazz, instrumental. Would someone who owns/has heard this amp share his/her thoughts on it?
Did anyone try to run it with Totem speakers (as they are one of the best for jazz, classical ...).

I also read that some MF amps had a hum issue. Does this apply on A5.5 amp or it has been solved?

Manny Thanks.

Hi There

I can answer one question, I had the A5-5 and the sound stage was awesome very clean tight sounding bass high are very clean to me it sounded excellent, but I had a few problems with it that why I returned it but a month later I found out my problems, the remote was tripping the Amp to go on the USB input automatically that why I though it was the A5-5, so I changed to a different Amplifier, I do miss my A5-5 but now I can get something better bigger :B .

What I said about the remotes it was my sony Blu-ray Player 550 tripping it so I don't think you should have any problams if you buy one.

My Speaker are Krix Neuphonix if you wanted to know my Amplifier a changed to is a Rb1080 Rotel which is a very good amp for the price range not as good as the A5-5 but then again the RB1080 is not a pre-amp Only a power amp.

Hope this helps and I will still buy Musical Fidelity in the future.

[zerot]

HDBLU, thanks a lot for your input. I'm eager to audition A5.5. I'm also a bit stretched between A5.5 and Primare I30. I'll be able to audition A5.5 soon but unfortunately there is no local Primare dealer in Vancouver. What I like about A5.5 (apart from other great features) is built in DAC - USB port for digital audio streams. On the other side Primare I30 is a true dual mono amp. I was kind of surprised that MF A5.5 didn't follow the same design path ?

[alebonau]

HDBLU, thanks a lot for your input. I'm eager to audition A5.5. I'm also a bit stretched between A5.5 and Primare I30. I'll be able to audition A5.5 soon but unfortunately there is no local Primare dealer in Vancouver. What I like about A5.5 (apart from other great features) is built in DAC - USB port for digital audio streams. On the other side Primare I30 is a true dual mono amp. I was kind of surprised that MF A5.5 didn't follow the same design path ?

hi zerot, the dac in the a5.5 is a throwaway item youd do better adding an mf xdac to any amp. so dont rule out the primare on accounts of the dac. re the a5.5 it does have a true dual mono topology as does the previous a5 integrated and a5pre and pwr. I've seen under hood to say . the only thing the a5.5 shares between the two channels is the large toroidal which uses separate windings for the two channels though so technically still dual mono.

for the RS6, also consider options from cyrus, arcam and nad with its master series integrated all good stuff, though I would say maf and ma do make a nice match. some older amps youd find cheaper is the mf a3.5 which would drive your rs6 pretty well too or the older a308 integrated both great designs

[zerot]

Thanks alebonau I appreciate, good to know.

I've heard Arcam FMJ A38 (the same store that will start selling MF) with Paradigms and it was kind of too warm for my taste, don't know?

There is a local Cyrus dealer here but lot of people say that Cyrus + MA is too bright; I read that the latest Cyrus 8vs2 has more bass and punch then older 6. I think I read only one review that highly and unreservedly favored this combination, but for classical music - reviewer was professional classical musician.

I've also heard Bryston B-100 SST with Focals - powerful amp but again I wasn't that impressed - it was very neutral, kind of clinical and bit boring; perhaps the Focals are not the happiest match?

Some say Creek Destiny and NAD M3 (that you mentioned) are a good match for MA, I read some favorable reviews. Again, I'm kind of cautious to go down the NAD line again.

I guess for now I narrowed down my choice to MF and Primare (need to figure out how to demo I30 or just simply trust other reviewers).

Now I know that "trust your ears" is one of the best guidelines while choosing the system

[alebonau]

Thanks alebonau I appreciate, good to know.

I've heard Arcam FMJ A38 (the same store that will start selling MF) with Paradigms and it was kind of too warm for my taste, don't know?

There is a local Cyrus dealer here but lot of people say that Cyrus + MA is too bright; I read that the latest Cyrus 8vs2 has more bass and punch then older 6. I think I read only one review that highly and unreservedly favored this combination, but for classical music - reviewer was professional classical musician.

I've also heard Bryston B-100 SST with Focals - powerful amp but again I wasn't that impressed - it was very neutral, kind of clinical and bit boring; perhaps the Focals are not the happiest match?

Some say Creek Destiny and NAD M3 (that you mentioned) are a good match for MA, I read some favorable reviews. Again, I'm kind of cautious to go down the NAD line again.

I guess for now I narrowed down my choice to MF and Primare (need to figure out how to demo I30 or just simply trust other reviewers).

Now I know that "trust your ears" is one of the best guidelines while choosing the system

yeah just so many choices arent there !

unfortunately no way out of checkign out in peron in my opinion as they say one mans wine is anothers vinegar

all good stuff you have listed, will jsut come down to whether to your preference or not

[Robb]

Hey guys, I have just bought a MF A5cr pre & want to buy the power amp.

Anyone selling a A5cr power amp? or can point me in the right direction?

& are the A5 power amps able to run off both 110v & 220v? If i bring one over from the US can i reconfigure back to 220-240v? how hard would it be?

BTW excellent info here, made me change my mind from the A5I & spend more on a S/H A5 pre/power.

Thanks

[Myrantz]

I have a MF A5 Intergrated amp. Love it! But recently, it has developed a problem. When I manually turn the volume control I get crackles or sometimes a loud snap in my speakers. It does not do this using the remote to turn the volume control nor does it seem to do this once warmed up. Source is a Rega Apollo Special Edition, VDH interconnects. Besides dirty volume pot (which doesn't seem to be the case) has anyone had this experience or have a solution besides taking to a service person?
Thanks.

[unkhman]

New Musical Fidelity Class A Amp!

http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/1646

http://www.avguide.com/article/music-fidelity-ship-new-class-integrated-amp

cheers!

[p.s]

Hello ,
I hope someone can give me advice. I have A5 CD player that I purchased used 2yrs ago and it has worked without a problem until last night. It would begin to play a selection but stop in the middle and would not respond to commands via remote or buttons on the unit except eject. Before it stopped I heard a low scrap or crackle. I would then have to eject, reinsert the disc and it would repeat with the same problem of stopping in the middle of playing. I can put in a different disc and the player will read "No Disc" even though the disc is place properly. The trouble shooting section in the owner manual was not helpful and I didn't see a discussion of similar problem in this thread. Can this be fix or is this the end? What do you think.
Thanks for you help

Charles

Hi Charles,
It can be fixed. I had a similar situation after nearly two years with my MF A3.5 CDP. The good folk who supplied it replaced the transport and various other bits and pieces, all at their own expense. I'm grateful for them doing that otherwise I'd have nothing but a paperweight. The player works okay now and it's a sound I enjoy. My MF A308 integrated works well. They are different designs with the integrated appearing a more solid piece of work. imo.

[meloman]

Hey guys, I have just bought a MF A5cr pre & want to buy the power amp.

Anyone selling a A5cr power amp? or can point me in the right direction?

& are the A5 power amps able to run off both 110v & 220v? If i bring one over from the US can i reconfigure back to 220-240v? how hard would it be?

BTW excellent info here, made me change my mind from the A5I & spend more on a S/H A5 pre/power.

Thanks

Hi Robb,

Not selling anything here but here's some advice with regard to your mains voltage question. I bought a number of MF devices overseas and have been able to reconfigure them all. MF uses transformers with both 110VAC and 220VAC primary coils. The only thing you'll have to do is relocate 1 wire to a labeled terminal strip. I've seen them do it this way on a3.5 CD / Tri Vista DAC, A5 DAB tuner so I'ld be surprised if they'ld do it differently on the A5 amps.
Cheers.

[DM3000 Owner]

I just had the cover off of my A308CR preamp and it looks very easy to change operatign voltage. Just move one wire.

[Robb]

Thanks a lot guys.

I should be bringing one over from the US to OZ so hopefully everything works out fine. Will just need to buy a power cord.

[HDBLU]

Does anyone know if there Are bringing out any more A5-5 series later on in the year.

[HDBLU]

hmm would be a step back I reckon, have you had any experience with the a1008 ? the trivista range is in a whole another realm I think. the trivista is an absolute beauty and think youd have to be aiming somewhere like kw series and above to better it

I would sit back and continue to enjoy your tri-vista with the knowledge you have something pretty special there

Hay Alebonau I was trying to send you a massage but you have exceeded their stored space

[alebonau]

oh try now

[chrisbureau]

Hi everyone

Just in case: Does anyone know what I can get to replace a remote control for an amp MF A308? MF does not seem to sell any remote handset (and according to their website they do not seem to have an official retailer in my country).

I got a "universal" remote but it does not work with the volume. Any idea of a particular characteristic that I should watch for this kind of thing ? Thanks

[DM3000 Owner]

If you buy any other equipment such as a CD player its remote will work for you.

That said, try a harmony remote.

[chrisbureau]

Thanks.