Tripping the protection on the 1095

[Orange Peel]

When the sound goes off and the little red lights come on on the face of the RMB 1095, what does that mean exactly??

I have had this happen to me twice already, I was listening at low levels and I went to turn on my ceiling fan, just pulled the chain and all but the center channel went into the protection mode, lights on and all.

Is is due to the circuit breaker having too many things on it? I know people use the dedicated 20amp breaker, but that's probably out of the question for me.

Can I just upgrade the breaker in the box to a 20 amp instead of the standard 15amp one that's there, if that's what's there?

Thanks for any help!

[soundhound]

Sound's like your'e about at max on that circuit. A good current tug on the line introduced by the fans inductive motor is making your'e hungry amp react. As far as replacing your'e breaker you could power down the room, pull a receptacle from the wall and see if it is wired with #14 wire (15 amp) or #12 (20 amp). Odds are if it is protected at 15 amp it is probably only #14 wire, in wich case you do not want to swap the breaker directly. Given the amount you have invested in your'e gear it would be worth while to pull a dedicated circuit just for HT use. It is hard on equiptment to be under powered and then spiked.

[mitch57]

Orange Peel,

Most homes and apartments only have 15 amp breakers. Plus they usually have multiple rooms and outlets serviced from one breaker. My house was built new in 1996 and that's the way it was wired. I noticed every time I turned on the TV or Receiver the ligths would dim momentarily. That was before I upgraded my system with the Rotel RMB-1095.

Just prior to the upgrade I was very concerned that I was going to overload the circuit. So... I bit the bullet and spent the bucks to add an additional dedicated circuit. Actually since it was only a tad more bucks to put in two, I had the electrician install two dedicated 20 amp circuits.

The first thing I noticed (before I got my 1095) was when I powered on the TV and receiver the lights didn't flicker/dim. And they still don't with the 1095 added to the system.

It's one of the best decisions I've made. I'm not looking back. I will always have dedicated circuits for my system.

I would highly encourage you to have one installed if at all possible.

[Orange Peel]

Well looks like I will have to contact a local electrician about adding a dedicated 20amp breaker then I hope it's possible at least, the house was built in 1996 as well, and I don't know how they are going to run the wires, etc, etc. I will keep an eye on this stuff, so far it hasn't done it again, just those 2 times, and I watched a movie at -7 under reference, and nothing happened, so maybe it's just at certain times of the day or something.

[soundhound]

As far as time of day, you assumingly have 100 amp service into your'e home? The specific branch circuit breakers in no way limit current to their curcuits, just mechanicaly protect them. Your'e panel should be laid out in a room to room basis. If you have have another heavy load on the same branch you could make sure this off b-4 firing up your'e system until you can have it adressed.

[shadow]

Get the dedicated circuit installed for your HT. Great improvement at a relatively low cost. ($300 for me five years ago)

[PewterTA]

Orange,

Doesn't the Monster HTS 2600 have voltage and Amp displays on it? Are you running the 1095 through it, you could probably get a rough idea how much power your entire system is pulling through it...

[Orange Peel]

It has voltage lights on it, I usually get 120 volts, but I don't run the 1095 through it, I run the 1095 directly into the wall outlet. It's the same outlet the HTS 2600 uses though, so you would think the voltage lights would indicate the drop, but they usually stay at 120 volts, sometimes goes to 110volts, but never lower.

I would like a dedicated circuit, I will check that option out!