It's time for a Statement announcing my latest project..

[Jim Holtz]

Hi tpremo55,

You have a good point, so I think I will not glue the base to the speaker, just mount it with some screws (that's how it is connected now) and if it ever warps I guess I will have to build a new one (using plywood).
I am also planning on painting the base, so I will look for a paint that gets absorbed deep in MDF to add some strength.

Thanks,
Asi.

Hi Asi,

I have my base screwed to the cabinet with deck screws rather than firmly attached so it can't be removed. I think it'll be easier to finish that way.

Jim

[kingpin]

Had some time to finish the bases yesterday :T and bring the speakers to the right height.

Welcome to the "Speaker Mile High Club"

Mike

[ahaik]

Originally Posted by Jim Holtz
Hi Asi,

I have my base screwed to the cabinet with deck screws rather than firmly attached so it can't be removed. I think it'll be easier to finish that way.
Jim

Hi Jim,
Good thinking, that was my thought too, was planning to glue them after I finish the veneering, but now with the warp "threat" (though I doubt they will) I will keep them screwed in.

Originally Posted by kingpin
Welcome to the "Speaker Mile High Club"

Mike

As Albert use to say, everything is relative :W

[Jim Holtz]

Statements design is now posted...

For those of you that have been waiting, here is a link to the Statements design on Curt's website.

http://www.geocities.com/cc00541/index.html

Enjoy! :T

Jim

[ThomasW]

Cool..... :B

If anyone (Asi?) wants to create a full-blown build thread using Curt's documentation, we'll put it in the Missions Accomplished section.

The other option is I can create a build thread by copying posts in this thread.

Question to both Curt and Asi, do either of you guys have more pics of the actual construction process?

[ahaik]

Thomas,
I have some more pictures of the cabinet construction, not a lot though. My back panel is not glued yet so I can pop it open and take more pictures.
The construction is pretty straight forward because the boxes are square, the only tricky part is aligning the mid "tunnels to the back panel, I can explain how I did it (it worked good for me), maybe Jim did it better then me.
Unfortunately I did not take pictures of the crossovers, but I can take some when I open the back panel.
There is some good information in this thread, I can copy it to the new thread.
I will be happy to start a new thread if its ok with Jim and Curt (Jim ?).

Asi.

[Dennis H]

Nice job, guys! :T

Between the CAD drawings on Curt's page and the pic Jim posted on the first page of this thread, the construction looks pretty clear.

[ThomasW]

Instead of starting a new separate build thread I edited Jim's first post to include the drawings from Curt's webpage.

Since build questions have been asked and answered in this thread it will be the official build thread, and this will eventually become a sticky thread in the Missions Accomplished section.

[Jim Holtz]

Instead of starting a new separate build thread I edited Jim's first post to include the drawings from Curt's webpage.

Since build questions have been asked and answered in this thread it will be the official build thread, and this will eventually become a sticky thread in the Missions Accomplished section.

Hi Thomas,

That works too. Thanks for your help! :T

Jim

[---k---]

Dumb question, who is Wendel?

[Jim Holtz]

Dumb question, who is Wendel?

Hi Ryan,

Wayne is a friend of Curt and myself that lent his sharp ears to the project. Wayne is quite a bit younger than Curt and I and has exceptional hearing ability. Wayne handled the voicing portion of the project.

Here's a link to the 2006 Iowa DIY event web page with all of our pictures. Wayne is labeled as Wayne W. Of course I'm much younger, slimmer and even better looking than how I appear in my pictures. :rofl:

Jim

[---k---]

Cool.

Link???

[Jim Holtz]

Cool.

Link???

Well DUH! Sorry about that. ops: Here's the link:

http://home.mchsi.com/~dpeterson/Iowadiy.html

Jim

[---k---]

It looks like we took Curt's geocity account down! it won't load for me right now.

[ahaik]

Originally Posted by ThomasW
Since build questions have been asked and answered in this thread it will be the official build thread, and this will eventually become a sticky thread in the Missions Accomplished section.

That was my opinion too just felt too green :B to say it.
There is good information here. I also have some Emails and PMs from Jim answering my questions, I will summerize it and post it too.

Asi.

[howburger]

These sound like they may be exactly what I'm looking for. My guess is that these will capture much interest, not so profound a statement(no pun intended) I guess, with over 8,000 views so far. I haven't read the entire thread yet, but have you determined the efficiency of them yet?

Harold

[Jim Holtz]

These sound like they may be exactly what I'm looking for. My guess is that these will capture much interest, not so profound a statement(no pun intended) I guess, with over 8,000 views so far. I haven't read the entire thread yet, but have you determined the efficiency of them yet?

Harold

Hi Harold,

I'm guessing that the Statements are 88-89 DB. They're an easy load to drive. Impedance never dips below 4 ohms and averages above that so any good amp or receiver shouldn't have any problem with them.

Jim

[howburger]

Thanks Jim!

[ahaik]

Hi Jim,

Do you see any performance issues with putting a grill on them ?

Thanks,
Asi.

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Jim,

Do you see any performance issues with putting a grill on them ?

Thanks,
Asi.

Hi Asi,

No problem with a grill for casual listening but for any kind of serious listening, I'd take them off. The crossover is designed with out a grill on the speaker. Anything you hang around the drivers will change the frequency response. I will be putting a small grill on the back too which will cover the openings on the mids. Those could stay on all the time with out issue, IMHO.

Those are my thoughts anyway.

Jim

[Arthur]

Congratulations! It is a very nice design, and it seems well studied.
Have you considered a 1/2 version for people that have smaller rooms?
Have you encountered any problems with the mids? Asking it because I read somewhre that TB's might have some FR/Impedance/T/S variations....

[Jim Holtz]

Congratulations! It is a very nice design, and it seems well studied.
Have you considered a 1/2 version for people that have smaller rooms?
Have you encountered any problems with the mids? Asking it because I read somewhre that TB's might have some FR/Impedance/T/S variations....

Hi Arthur,

Thank you for the kind words.

Yes, there are other designs which will support or be similar to the Statements concept in progress. We're not ready to announce yet and it'll probably be late summer/early fall before anything would be completed.

I know that wasn't a simple yes or no but we're just not ready to talk about the next step yet.

This is the only Tangband I've used but I've been very impressed with the build quality. It's a really well built driver that seems to have a very good and low distortion motor structure. It doesn't look or sound like an economy driver.

Jim

[jonathanb3478]

Wow. I haven't (still) gotten that far in my RS TMWW project, I have to try really hard to keep my self from switching "horses" in mid stream, once I can start on speaker building again.

"Must finish one before starting another... Must finish one before starting another... Must finish one before starting another..."

Sounds like a great project. I (or someone I know) will own a pair of these made by me in the future, I am sure of it. Big is beautiful, right? :B

[Sefferdog]

I have emailed Jim with several questions regarding the Statement project and have finally started construction, albeit a very meager start. I have the front and rear baffles cut. I am going to go with 1.5" front baffles.

I have the woofers and mids; the tweeters and all other crossover/construction parts will be here Monday.

Jim suggested I document my efforts in a build thread and I was wondering if that would be here, or should I start a new thread? I will take and post pictures throughout.

If anyone is considering this project and wants any pics of a particular part of the construction process that I do not post please ask and I will take some of the requested section.

Thanks,

Wade

[Jim Holtz]

I have emailed Jim with several questions regarding the Statement project and have finally started construction, albeit a very meager start. I have the front and rear baffles cut. I am going to go with 1.5" front baffles.


Thanks,

Wade

Hi Wade,

If you use a 1 1/2" front baffle be sure to really open up the back of the mid opening so the W4's aren't in a tunnel. I've switched to 1 1/4" front baffles because of this issue. The extra 1/4" does help open things up.

I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

Jim

[TurboFC3S]

The problem is that I am planning on veneering them. I want a whole piece for each of the surfaces so I can't have round corners.

Jim,
Since having no roundover corners makes the buffle width larger is that significant ?
If it is I can probably bevel the sides a bit.

Sure you can veneer over rounded corners, you either need paperbacked veneer or to treat raw veneer with one of the softeners that lets it bend without cracking. The most visually stunning way to do it is find two bookmatched pieces big enough to cover 1/2 the front and one of the sides. Use veneer tape to match them up, and put the bookmatched line right down the middle of the front and wrap around the corners with the iron-on glue.

I've been able to wrap raw wood around corners before with no treating, of course I have a 1.5" roundover bit which helps

Another thing you could do, go ahead and veneer the back, sides, and top. Veneer the sides right up to the front baffle and the put the roundover on. Next step would be to take something like a 90 degree bevel bit and with an edge guide put a small groove vertically on the side right where the roundover ends, and the same along the top panel. Then prime, sand, and finish the front totally smooth - tape along the edge of the veneer and apply an automotive finish. If you go with a light veneer, do a silver/titanium front. If you do darker veneer like bubinga, do a metallic black front baffle.

[Sefferdog]

Hi Wade,

If you use a 1 1/2" front baffle be sure to really open up the back of the mid opening so the W4's aren't in a tunnel. I've switched to 1 1/4" front baffles because of this issue. The extra 1/4" does help open things up.

I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

Jim

Thanks for the heads up Jim, I will be sure to do that! :lol:

[ahaik]

Thanks for the heads up Jim, I will be sure to do that! :lol:

I would even suggest cutting much larger holes in the interior 3/4" MDF behind the mids (say 5" x 5" the size of the tunnels).

During my build I asked Jim if I should "chamfer" the foam around the mids.
Jim suggested moving the foam 1" back. I actually did both and I think it works well (just cut the foam with a good pair of scissors, not utility knife).

Take a lot of pictures during your build, I didn't and I'm sorry for that.
Good luck with your build, I hope you will like them as much as I do.

Asi.

[ahaik]

Sure you can veneer over rounded corners, you either need paperbacked veneer or to treat raw veneer with one of the softeners that lets it bend without cracking. The most visually stunning way to do it is find two bookmatched pieces big enough to cover 1/2 the front and one of the sides. Use veneer tape to match them up, and put the bookmatched line right down the middle of the front and wrap around the corners with the iron-on glue.

I've been able to wrap raw wood around corners before with no treating, of course I have a 1.5" roundover bit which helps

Another thing you could do, go ahead and veneer the back, sides, and top. Veneer the sides right up to the front baffle and the put the roundover on. Next step would be to take something like a 90 degree bevel bit and with an edge guide put a small groove vertically on the side right where the roundover ends, and the same along the top panel. Then prime, sand, and finish the front totally smooth - tape along the edge of the veneer and apply an automotive finish. If you go with a light veneer, do a silver/titanium front. If you do darker veneer like bubinga, do a metallic black front baffle.

Thank you very much for the tips.
Two problems for me:

1. its hard for me to find large pieces of veneer to cover the whole side, so a side + half baffle would be much harded (I can't afford a full price so I shop on Ebay).

2. I am very scared of bookmatching, is it really hard to do like I feel.

The groove suggestion sound good though I will definitally consider that.

Asi.

[Jim Holtz]

Thank you very much for the tips.
Two problems for me:

1. its hard for me to find large pieces of veneer to cover the whole side, so a side + half baffle would be much harded (I can't afford a full price so I shop on Ebay).

2. I am very scared of bookmatching, is it really hard to do like I feel.

The groove suggestion sound good though I will definitally consider that.

Asi.

Hi Asi,

The Oakwood Veneer company ( http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/ ) is my 1st choice for veneer. Their products and service are superb. If you're going to use the iron on method, standard paper back veneer is fine. The problem is, it'll take two sheets to veneer the Statements due to the 55" height and 16 1/2" sides. That would be one 4x10 and one 4x8.

We're looking forward to pictures! :T

Jim

[ahaik]

Hi Asi,

The Oakwood Veneer company ( http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/ ) is my 1st choice for veneer. Their products and service are superb. If you're going to use the iron on method, standard paper back veneer is fine. The problem is, it'll take two sheets to veneer the Statements due to the 55" height and 16 1/2" sides. That would be one 4x10 and one 4x8.

We're looking forward to pictures! :T

Jim

Thanks Jim,
Did some reading about the iron on veneer method. I think I will try to do some bookmatching on leftovers that I have and then I'll decide which direction to go.

Asi.

[Sefferdog]

I would even suggest cutting much larger holes in the interior 3/4" MDF behind the mids (say 5" x 5" the size of the tunnels).

During my build I asked Jim if I should "chamfer" the foam around the mids.
Jim suggested moving the foam 1" back. I actually did both and I think it works well (just cut the foam with a good pair of scissors, not utility knife).

Take a lot of pictures during your build, I didn't and I'm sorry for that.
Good luck with your build, I hope you will like them as much as I do.

Asi.

Asi,

I had planned on cutting the interior 3/4 MDF somewhat larger to accomodate the thicker baffle but I had not thought about the foam. Thank you for pointing that out.

As for pics I will take a lot of them and post as many as I can.

Thanks,

Wade

[Sefferdog]

I finally got started on this project. I was hoping to get most of the cabs built tomorrow but I forgot about our office picnic. I am obligated to be there so that shoots tomorrow!

I offer up a couple of pics as proof I have actually made some sawdust. :T I think the Statement part comes in when my wife sees the size of them, I am sure she will make a "Statement" or two. 8O

[Jim Holtz]

I
I offer up a couple of pics as proof I have actually made some sawdust. :T I think the Statement part comes in when my wife sees the size of them, I am sure she will make a "Statement" or two. 8O

Looking good! :T Thanks for the pictures.

Jim

[Sefferdog]

Jim,

I have decided to build them with the MDF pass through, it will be less of a hassle that way! I am not going to worry with the PVC. Thanks.

Wade

[Sefferdog]

Was going to call it a night but decided to make the cuts for the pass throughs. I've gone ahead and gotten a couple of them glued together. Hopefully more tomorrow! :Z

[ahaik]

Wade,
Looks great :T , one more step towards total nirvana :B
Good decision obout the PVC IMO, I don't really see any advantages to that (am I wrong ?) if its for looks, you don't really get to see the back.
We can't wait for your review.

Asi.

[jonathanb3478]

Was going to call it a night but decided to make the cuts for the pass throughs. I went ahead and got a couple of them glued together. Hopefully more tomorrow! :Z

Good to see a BT3100 or BT3000 engaged in making speakers!

Have you been to www.bt3central.com ?

Things look like things are coming together well.

Have you ordered the drivers and crossover components, yet? Just curious about how long 'till you might have listening impressions. I am interested in these, as well. Everyone's responses have been very positive, but there have not been (strictly speaking) a lot of responses for this one, yet.

[Sefferdog]

Jonathon,
I have been to BT3 Central many times, a very informative site.

I have the woofers and mids here now, the rest of the pieces and parts are due here Monday. I would love to be listening to these next weekend, but realstically I am shooting for the end of the month.

One thing that plays into my favor in a big way is the fact that my wife is flying up to her mother's this coming Wednesday and will be gone throughout the weekend. :B :B :B I will probably play hooky from work Thurs. & Fri. I could possibly have them stoked up by next weekend, but that would be a longshot. :E

I have the pass throughs completed and have started the main box construction, but today is really pretty much a wash as I have a command appearance at our annual company picnic. :M . I will keep you posted.

[Sefferdog]

Wade,
Looks great :T , one more step towards total nirvana :B
Good decision obout the PVC IMO, I don't really see any advantages to that (am I wrong ?) if its for looks, you don't really get to see the back.
We can't wait for your review.

Asi.

Asi,

I've spoken with Jim regarding the pass through construction, and you had mentioned you had some suggestions as well. Could I trouble you to share those with me? I PMed you how I plan to do them but I would like to hear how others have gone about it also. :huh:

[---k---]

Wow. I'm feeling a bit inferior. I need more clamps! (Insert Tim Allen Tool Time Grunting)

:T

[Sefferdog]

Wow. I'm feeling a bit inferior. I need more clamps! (Insert Tim Allen Tool Time Grunting)

:T

Yea, I have a Harbor Freight store 4-5 minutes from my house, depending on traffic. I stop in quite regularly. When they have the bar clamps on sale I usually pick up a handful or three!

[Sefferdog]

Not much accomplished today, but I do have 2 cabinets glued up and ready to start working on tomorrow. :T Tomorrow's plan is to get the bracing mounted, get both ports cut in, and depending on how much more I feel like doing I may possibly mount the pass throughs, although I am thinking that task would be easier once I had my front baffle routed. I may start routing baffles tomorrow.
Anyway, here are a couple of pics and as I get more accomplished I will add to them.

[Jim Holtz]

Not much accomplished today, but I do have 2 cabinets glued up and ready to start working on tomorrow. :T Tomorrow's plan is to get the bracing mounted, get both ports cut in, and depending on how much more I feel like doing I may possibly mount the pass throughs, although I am thinking that task would be easier once I had my front baffle routed. I may start routing baffles tomorrow.
Anyway, here are a couple of pics and as I get more accomplished I will add to them.

Sefferdog,

Your progress is absolutely amazing. I am humbled by how rapidly both you and Asi are able to build cabinets. :T It takes me forever!

Jim

[---k---]

Jim, if it makes you feel any better, it took me about 3 weeks to get one box done and probably will have the second one done in another week. I, too, don't know how they do it so fast.