Saint-Saëns planar- AKA SMJ-40- time for a project now?

[ergo]

In a computer world Jon would click copy and then paste and there it is.... real life unfortunately does not work like that (yet). It is a bit frustrating though if you happen to work in both of those worlds.

PS. Last note on house size topic - I do acknowledge that outside US we do have a very biased view into life in America as well. The TV and Youtube etc does distort the view a lot too. But regadless - sound wise it promises something grand. Would be happy to get a listen once they sing, but that's unlikely to happen.

[JonMarsh]

Yeah, it would be a lot simpler if I could afford some kind of big box that would take the 3D files and convert them into a cabinet! But it's not remotely that simple for Steve with his CNC and it's programming issue- CAM is probably a bigger problem than CAD, he's confessed to me he's not looking forward to figuring that out for these front panels that Danny wants him to make!

Yeah, a lot of things in life are like that Pink Floyd song, "Wish you were here...". Heck, Steve may never hear them, unless he takes a surprise trip out west to see family in Seattle and drops by here... not a likely bet!

Got my fingers crossed on these- really tried to pay attention to the details. And as it is sometimes said, it's all details!

[JonMarsh]

Sooo....where's the other one?

The parts are all stacked on the rack and side wall- ready for assembly once I've done one and are sure there are no further tweaks to the details of construction. SOP here at AudioWorx West on a new complicated design.

[JonMarsh]

AudioWorx: Houston, we have confirmation of side wall check fit post internal assembly and glue up completion. Requesting permission for LF crossover insertion check fit and LF wiring installation, plus completion of damping materials installation prior to side wall final assembly process.

Houston: You are a go for crossover insertion check fit, LF wiring installation, and damping materials placement. Note, approval for side wall glued installation will be pending final review of these next steps prior to closing up the LF Enclosure.

Houston: Also recommend that LF Input panel be check fitted with actual hardware after final screw pass through sizing and flat head bevel reaming operation.

AudioWorx: Complying with guidance- will report back with results for review as work is completed, prior to final side wall attachment. We don't want a Starliner kind of problem here, even if we don't have maneuvering jets in the current design...

AudioWorx: Houston, note there is a planned mechanical update for inductor mechanicals in LCR network zobel, 20mH combined inductance. Components L3 & L4 to be received today and documentation will be submitted upon completion.

[technodanvan]

I dunno Jon, this looks awfully professional. I'm not sure "wire and sparks guy" will still be applicable after this one.

[JonMarsh]

I dunno Jon, this looks awfully professional. I'm not sure "wire and sparks guy" will still be applicable after this one.

Well, I think we all have reputations to live down or move up at some point in life, right? Then, too, it's all relative... like relative to what I did in my day job. Like my last Professional Education Seminar prepared for the 2021 IEEE APEC conference... or the 65 publications in the previous years. Definitely wires and sparks, no woodworking!

Maybe I'm just a late bloomer of sorts, though I was doing some fairly weird stuff in the early mid 70's- had some influence on some Boulder CO guys. But of course, I think most would wonder if at my age I'm not a bit past my prime, eh? The proof will be in the pudding.

Speaking of pudding, I'm sure hoping all the measurements and sims have been done correctly, because even more than the SPL curve, I'm excited about the predicted phase tracking and group delay behavior...




Of course, many a slip twixt the cup and the lip, even though all this is based on driver and test cabinet measurements. We'll see fairly soon...


In the meantime, slow work takes time- like setting up the woofer wiring...

Of course, I have to do that to the beat of a different drummer, this being vintage 4025 speaker cable from SOMMER Cable, a fine German company... had just the right size "bunch" on hand!


And the cable clamps and hold down screws came from the local ACE Hardware, for all the buy local fans!

😆

[JonMarsh]

I dunno Jon, this looks awfully professional. I'm not sure "wire and sparks guy" will still be applicable after this one.

OK, second response, after some consideration and a caramel chocolate vanilla ice cream bar... (AKA "sugar rush")

I've always had a bit of a knack for wires and sparks, and had a Technician Class Amateur Radio operators license when I was 13, and was into slow and fast scan TV back then. But I also built a special workbench for that gear, and wanted to learn more about woodworking and tools.

High school ended up being weird, because half of it was in Magnolia Arkansas, and the other half in Texarkana TX. The problem that created was that when all the cool kids at school in the 11th and 12 grade were taking shop class, learning their chops, I had to take ROTC, because Texas would not give me credit for my Arkansas PE units, or for that matter, my world history class, either! So in order to get 4 PE credits in 2 years, the only practical solution was ROTC, because for whatever reasons, it counted double PE credits for each year. And I sure as heck wasn't going to waste my time taking two PE classes every day!

Let's set the wayback machine to 2010 for reference, on a project started in 2009, the original Ardent. Was it just a febrile effort for woodworking, or did it represent some cogent insight development for the wires and sparks side, in spite of my conclusion that it was a somewhat flawed effort, but marked an interesting direction?

(you know you're getting "mature" when you start referencing 15 year old projects as if they were something fairly recent...)

Of course, these were inspired by the Avalon Indra, but having measured the Eton woofers use in the Indra, I wanted something more capable on the woofer side (hence, Seas ER18RNX- still have a couple of pairs of those on hand) and of course, nothing but the C79 would do for midrange! On the other hand, I was not wild about the test results on the Accuton tweeter, so I elected to go with Scanspeak, and didn't regret it.


Now, the "wires and sparks" side of this was an early decision to attempt a modified Duelund crossover approach...




And while this was achieved, and the response was fairly salutary for a speaker of this size- see below. (not optimal positioning for LF measurement, and a lot of room reflections in order to capture the low end mess up the intrinsic smoothies of the drivers.)




The crossover was a beast, and an expensive one at that!






Alll the both gory and boring details can be found here, in the "Summer Ardent Camp" thread starting in 2009:

https://www.htguide.com/forum/missio...t-speaker-camp

However, it did make for some inspiration after all the perspiration, and some fond memories, too. Plus, it lead to the Wavecor Ardent just a few years later.

And yeah, I still keep some of that wine around the house at all times... Liubov rather likes it.

[JonMarsh]

In the interests of full disclosure, for those newer to the forum, the genetic roots of the original Ardent also go back to my M8ta project, started in 2003. Yikes, that's more than 20 years ago!

https://www.htguide.com/forum/primetime-a-v/mission-possible-diy/missions-accomplished/3518-m8ta-fun-or-work

Several folks built these- this was a two way system, initially using a tweeter from a name speaker system company (Hales), with a HiVi woofer, but "graduating" to the RS225 woofer and Seas Millennium tweeter.

Original concept derived slightly from Avalon Eclipse. Initial drawings I made...









kvardas built a very nice looking set... I never finished the veneering on mine! Too busy at work!





Mark Paulson did a very nice set also...




The development work for the various woofer and tweeter combos was done in LspCAD- still have my dongle for that!


Here's a plot for the lower cost Seas tweeter version...,

[technodanvan]

Man, you've really saved some pics over the years!

[theSven]

That's something I'm trying to pride HTGuide on is that we have a good history or images from member builds, designs, etc.

[JonMarsh]

A lot of detail task for today regarding the LF cabinet- starting off with countersinking the input panel for the flat head M4 mounting screws, and installing the binding posts...

Local hardware stores did not have a 45 degree bevel tool for the countersink, so once again I did NOT shop local, but instead with Amazon this time:




This bevel work and installation of the binding posts went relatively quickly...





Here you can see the fitment for the M4 mounting screws...

[JonMarsh]

No weekend holiday travel for me, have spent a bit more time plugging away at fiddly bits, making steady though not "spectacular" progress!

Some tasks, regarding the crossover, like rebuilding the mechanical configuration for the 10mH+10mH = 20mH inductor for the LCR network- the factory tie wraps are pretty weak, and even spontaneously pop, and the varnish impregnation is quite incomplete- not Dayton's finest moment. So new parts were ordered and combined with new tie wraps, a different stack design and a dab or two of J-B Weld epoxy...



Input wiring for the LF input panel is also being prepared.

Additional work on the crossovers includes some mounting hole nylon washer stand offs, partly to clear the nylon bolt which will be used to secure the 20mH inductor assembly.






Spacers are courtesy of ACE Hardware...


Another item to work on is the foam gaming for the walls- one of my favorites is the three layer acoustic Barrier material with a weighted polymer damping layer to reduce transmission to the enclosure walls...







It's also time to get the other side wall ready to clue up to the main cabinet assembly in process; time to beak out the Weicon 310M and glue up more of the damper pads, and glue them to the enclosure wall:




Warning, this is NOT Silicone RTV, it's a special lossy elastic polyvalent glue with permanent elasticity and damping characteristics, used primarily in medical gear.




Very good stuff, but generally only available at industrial supply vendors.

[ergo]

Thanks for sharing the adhesive tip - this one is made in Germany so good chance of ordering options in EU as well

https://www.weicon.de/en/flex-310-m-classic-ms-polymer-ms-polymer-based-elastic-adhesive-for-versatile-use/10010026

***

Your progress is very cool to watch and hard at same time. I'm really looking forward for a speaker project too, but that is still some months away as workshop build needs some more weekends to get ready for projects of this kind.

[JonMarsh]

This reminds me of a song... (well, a lot of the time EVERYTHING reminds me of a song, the "curse/blessing" of being a musician...)

And, confession time, I did not "get my workshop ready" in the sense you and Steve probably mean; everything is organized and changed weekly or daily depending on what I'm needing to work on- that's why a job site table saw, a Bosch dual bevel sliding miter saw on a DeWalt mobile stand, and other mobile table stands are such a blessing!

Yeah, the Weicon stuff is good, and should be MUCH easier to get in Europe. I often find myself resorting to Canadian distributors for stuff like that or Rampa inserts. Other times, I just go to Europe. You might be surprised at how fast DHL is from France, for example, and my TLHP account gives better pricing and service than a PE wholesale account in the US. I can usually get stuff from Europe faster than from Canada... explain that!!

[JonMarsh]

Another example of time consuming fiddling- wiring up the LF input panel!




Nothing exotic here- just some fine stranded OFC wires stripped out of Mogami Quad 4mm OFC speaker cable, and the Analysis Plus Oval 12 cable to connect from the input to the binding post set that will jumper to the input of the MF-HF cabinet. It reminds me of some braided wire cables from decades ago, and the electrical specs are very good (low loop back inductance, low DCR) and the price is tolerable.

[technodanvan]

Yeah, the Weicon stuff is good, and should be MUCH easier to get in Europe. I often find myself resorting to Canadian distributors for stuff like that or Rampa inserts. Other times, I just go to Europe. You might be surprised at how fast DHL is from France, for example, and my TLHP account gives better pricing and service than a PE wholesale account in the US. I can usually get stuff from Europe faster than from Canada... explain that!!

Do you mind sharing your Canadian source for the Weicon? I haven't been able to source it myself. I was going to try Sikaflex instead.

Edit: You used mass-loaded foam for the lower cab. Any particular reason you didn't line the walls with a combination of mass loading and denim filler instead? I'm thinking about this for my own build right now but haven't decided on a path forward just yet.

[JonMarsh]

I've recently found a US source also, USA Industrial Supply.

Re the walls, that will be an experiment, and I do have denim, but it would only be used one layer thick if at all.

[technodanvan]

I think at this point I'll have to use the denim, if only to maybe get rid of the giant box from my garage!

[Steve Manning]

I've recently found a US source also, USA Industrial Supply.

Re the walls, that will be an experiment, and I do have denim, but it would only be used one layer thick if at all.

Danny, expect to see a kitchen faucet in there soon, I'm sure he has one laying around in the garage. 😁😁

[JonMarsh]

Danny, expect to see a kitchen faucet in there soon, I'm sure he has one laying around in the garage. 😁😁

actually, I'm planning an adjustable focus showered... but your guess is close!

But there will be denim pads over the crossover at the bottom for certain!

[JonMarsh]

Due to local weather emergencies (50-60 mph winds on Monday) my efforts have been somewhat stalled and diverted, but a new order of parts for the POC3 build of midrange crossover has been submitted, a new layout design is in process, and mounting inserts for the LF crossover installed in the first LF cabinet under construction.



As always, slow work takes time...

[JonMarsh]

Well, Labor Day was very appropriately named, as the wind storm we had this year literally smashed our Gazebo to a crumpled up mess, and that's going to cause me all kinds of labor to assemble a new one, different brand, heavier and stronger, and rated for 100 mph winds!

So, I'm running a bit behind things, and staring a major diversion in the face...

Anyway, the layout for the next build of the midrange crossover with the new cabinet is completed, based on measurements in this cabinet- it's not really all that much different conceptually from the first one, but has some tweaks to improve the impedance characteristics and even the cost! The remaining parts should hit the dock tomorrow- let's see how fast I can get this put together.

It will probably be six or seven days before the new gazebo hits the dock, so I've got a bit of a window to work with here- let's see what can get accomplished!

[technodanvan]

Are there any audiophile upgrades destined for this stormproof gazebo? Perhaps a few hundred pounds of hifi could make it feel more grounded.

[JonMarsh]

Well, the new gazebo itself is a few hundred pounds, the total shipping weight of the three cartons of parts is 460 lb! shipped out yesterday...




This new one is rated for winds up to 100mph. The old one only 40 mph. No one expects or has seen 60 mph in Treasure Valley before..


While I think I can put together all the subassemblies on my own, getting the roof up will require enlisting a few more guys- some husbands of my wife's East European friends (mostly Ukraine and Russian, though one American guy), and possibly Lance, the son of my neighbor where the original Gazebo got blown into their yard- he and I heaved it back over the fence into ours.




Lance is an ex Missouri cop, going civilian here, and building his DJ business locally. My nickname for him is "Reacher" (which I do use addressing him- he gets a bit of a kick out of it) because he looks so, so much like Alan Ritchson, the actor playing Jack Reacher on the Amazon Prime season- same height, about 6'5", very similar build, It's Erie. He and his fiancee are living with the parents next door for now- he just got a better job locally and things seem to be on the up and up.

Imagine your neighbor looks like this:




Now, he has a DJ business, with some of the big Bose speakers that amount to a ribbon like like array on top of a woofer cabinet. He's getting that going here, too, so I figure to weigh down the new gazebo a little more, I could put in one of the STW-350F 15" sub drivers in a good cabinet- the driver alone is just under 60 lb.






Of course, then I'd have to build the original Saint-Saens line array concept speakers to go with the sub, and we could have music wars- now and then he fires up his DJ system in their back yard, but it's what you'd expect from Missouri and in consideration of local tastes, all country. We gotta expand his horizons- maybe start off with some "Fourplay", the Masterpieces album, remastered.

And the Bose system is not very clean sounding - I have no fears about winning the fidelity contest hands down.

It's going to be an interesting few weeks coming up...

[JonMarsh]

I have two of the STW-350F, so one could go into the A/V room with front projector, the other on the Gazebo!

[technodanvan]

This is what appeared on the front page, so I was wondering if you were suggesting the sub was bigger than Alan himself!



And then I was thinking you'd have the sub hang from the top center of the gazebo, tuned mass damper-style as seen in skyscrapers.

[JonMarsh]

Hey, I like elaborate stuff, but maybe not THAT elaborate!

[JonMarsh]

Aside from all that silliness, the new midrange crossover parts for a slightly tweaked POC V3 build did arrive on Friday, along with the acoustic damping material. The other LF enclosure for the first cabinet has been readied for assembly, and it's looking like the LF crossover will get installed tomorrow morning and the second wall glued up. Finally! of course, by reporting work TBD, I've probably jinxed it, and something weird will come up in the morning...

[JonMarsh]

Got up early for some undisturbed working time. How early? Mmm, how about 4...

Sunday Funday, you know!


Today's primary tasks were installing the LF crossover in the cabinet assembly, and gluing on the second side panel. Always remember these details are shared just to give folks ideas... this is DIYW, you know... (Do It Your Way...)

A reminder about the LF board construction- the bottom side of the board has some tentative mounting points with approximately 1" diameter nylon standoff washers glued on:





Here you can see how they're hidden but working to provide clearance for the nylon bolt head holding down the 20mH inductor assembly constructed from two 10mH inductors





Looking at things from the top, each mounting screw location (M4 bolt going into threaded insert in the cabinet bottom wall) uses a fender washer to distribute the force across the phenolic crossover board.






Here you can see the LF crossover board installed, and the wiring to each woofer connected to the correct terminal position with the polarity from the crossover board drawing.



Last step for this phase of assembly was mixing up the J-B Weld epoxy for the braces, and the System West for the wall panel connect.

Feel free to create a better looking organized clamping array than I did, but it seems like it got the job done. Some of the clamps are actually connecting to the woofer openings, as the work table was blocking easy access for the other cabinet side at some points. A better work table and some lifting blocks would solve that issue...

[JonMarsh]

Just a little this AM on the 2nd LF crossover board preparation, the steps I use- YMMV, and of course, DIYW!

Putting the key steps (for me) in one post, for convenience to research.

Bigger picture stuff later today after the clamps are all off...


Everyone builds their crossovers with their own preferred style... I like using Leecraft BK-2 phenolic board as the base, it's strong enough to handle very heavy components without flexing, and drills and machines well.

First step for me is making a plan before cutting the board, which takes into account where it will be mounted and what need to go on it. I almost called the next step the first one, but for me, having a good plan for a complex crossover build is key. Note part numbers next to connectors- they are embedded in the grouped drawing elements I make to create components. I do mine in EasyDraw on the Mac- great functionality at a budget price. Not a subscription.



Second step for me is gluing up connectors and terminal strips and turret strips using J-B Weld, then tie wrapping down the big parts... I

n the case of this "special" LF crossover, with the need for an assembled LCR inductor and nylon mounting bolt from the underside, I also position nylon 1/4" thick spacer washers on the backside from where I'll be bolting it down... to give me the space and distribute the load. This also makes space for the tie wraps on the big inductors







Then, the main connector and big inductor mounting...




Last, I hot glue on the caps and other parts that might get changed out after testing, and wire things up! (pics will be added)

[JonMarsh]

Moving on to the big bits, back to the LF cabinet assembly.

Now, you know, sometimes I do things impulsively, and sometimes I reflect on things a bit and consider some "tweaks".

Today was a bit of the latter, thinking about my LF cabinets, and the massive glue joints, and also how I'm very happy with how the front panel attaches on two planes of the side walls, both side and leading edge, but not so happy about the side panel connecting to the back only on a bamboo ply edge for gluing. So, how to do something useful at the last minute without materially changing the design or adding (much) expense?

Well, I remembered a bin of longish screws I had around someplace, pretty sure they were stainless steel, with a flat head construction, and actually found them fairly quickly- very quickly considering how much stuff I have on shelves and how many places the MIGHT have been!




Now, I'm pretty sure I got these for some cabinet project, though I can't remember just what or why- I'm pretty sure Steve would say I bought them just because they were shiny... but they're also a nice size and length for what was coalescing in my febrile mind.

And that was to sink just a few of these into the back of the side panels, extending into the rear panel- at strategic points, like near the top and bottom corners, about 12 inches towards the inside on both top and bottom, just past where the PR hole almost touches the edge of the cabinet, and then in the middle between those second two, so five altogether. Get a longish 1/8" bit and drill a starter hole about the size of the shaft diameter (hey, we're talking about bamboo and hard rock maple ply- this isn't a self tapping proposition like soft exterior redwood decking or cedar furniture is), and use the bevel tool to counter sink at the surface. Piece of cake, served up with a bit of drill dust.


So, where does that leave things today when all things are said and done?

With a lot of sanding to do tomorrow! And a pretty dang heavy cabinet- I can pick it up, but it would be a monster with the drivers in it.





After sanding, then wipe on poly finish and a few coats of Arm-R-All, like the top modules.

Then install the input/output panels and associated wiring. then move indoors for driver loading and testing. I can smell woofers making sounds in the Fall air!

For now, the footer base and hardware will wait until after the basic testing.

[JonMarsh]

Time for more sausage grinding!

With the second side wall on, need to setup to do some sanding and one trimming operation- this will be easier and safer on a lower work table setup.



At a final sanding stage, protecting against scratches becomes more critical.

Now, the trimming operation I mention is getting the front panel flush with the side panel- the 1" side panels are just a skosh under that, so this allows for a slight trim operation to true every thing up, using my DeWalt double follower spiral bit.




Since the front panel holes and inserts are done while the front panel is easy to handle, this makes stability of the router for a trim pass something of a concern- simple solution, though, a 1/4" thick piece of fiberboard that I save for this kind of trim work. I tape it up to to keep the location stable, though here I'm probably over doing it.



The router bit depth is setup based on putting the bottom follower on the side panel just below the front panel.

Slow and steady does the job...

And the result is just what one would expect and desire...



And just to prove that we actually had a wood trim operation, voila, the router dust on the floor!





Just one more in a series....

[technodanvan]

I'm a little surprised you resorted to screws Jon, that epoxy is no joke...I wouldn't think that joint would move. However, I think I might shift the PRs forward an inch or so to give a little more meat at the thin point.

[JonMarsh]

Hey, this is all about DIYW- I wanted them as close to the back as possible, acoustical loading from the rear boundary.

If others choose to build this and innovate in various areas, it’s all good, right?

I mean, as far as I know, the other 3 or 4 folks considering this, none will be using Bamboo side walls or maple ply, so things are wide open…

[technodanvan]

How close to the wall are you putting these? Maybe I'll move the binding posts so I can get them closer...

[JonMarsh]

That remains to be determined- they may wind up in the living room after all... in the "A/V" converted bedroom they would have to be fairly close due to space limitations. Large bedroom, but still... (wife doesn't want front projection setup for movies in Living room).

Think about the Dutch & Dutch 8C, it's similar LF concept, woofer on the back of the cabinet, except the PR's are in a lower frequency area and can be boundary loaded at a greater distance than the 8C's woofers, which actually are woofers operating up to about 125Hz.





This is a very interesting speaker, it's really unfortunate (IMO) that they tried to do so much with DSP and wireless- the electronics are the weak point, IMO. It's had hiccups so to speak during the launch and early reviews. It has very consistent directivity control, due to the dipole mid bass/midrange.

.

[JonMarsh]

Yesterday was a write-off for work, due to annual exam and some birthday events, but some progress this AM, sanding done on front, sides and back ready for wipe on poly. And I couldn't resist a wistful show with two PR's laid in, as a partial future preview.

[JonMarsh]

and finish sanding being completed, finishing is starting. Going to take a while, 4 hours drying time between coats.

[JonMarsh]

I'm a little surprised you resorted to screws Jon, that epoxy is no joke...I wouldn't think that joint would move. However, I think I might shift the PRs forward an inch or so to give a little more meat at the thin point.

A reasonable observation, but another way of looking at it is that the back wall, of 1-1/4" maple ply, is a rather hefty brace for the side wall and PR opening.

As to the screws, well, there's an old saying I used to banter around at time...

If some's good, more is better, and too much is just enough!

One can get a 1 lb tub of these with a star drive head for about $25 on Amazon.

[JonMarsh]

The POC V3 junk bin crossover assembly is coming along, at least all major parts mounted, and some component selections refined... by searching ALL the junk bins!





For reference, the current working version of the TPL75 version schematic:



And the calculated SPL response:

[JonMarsh]

Still in that "slow work takes time mode" with getting basic finishing done for the LF cabinet- that and with the "gazebo kit" arriving tomorrow! Holy woodworker, Batman! It's going to get crazy around here...

Have let the golden oak finish layers dry for 72 hours and sanded it, and the first coast of semi-gloss Arm-R-Seal has gone on...

Now, this "Idaho Rustic" look is not going to win any design awards, but it's doable in the garage without any spray gear, and that's a key factor.






The intermediary layer between the top of LF cabinet and the HF cabinet is not in place, nor is the footer piece that mounts on inserts in the bottom of the cabinet.

And the lighting and reflections sort of destroys the side wall view in this angle shot that shows the rear of the cabinet. But hey, this is really just to show that work is still continuing...

[technodanvan]

I like the 'rustic' look you're getting out of these. Could mesh well with a lot of furniture I've seen.

[JonMarsh]

Thanks for the kind words, Danny- it's not a typical approach, I'll grant, but seems appropriate considering where I live, AND it's feasible without a big investment in finishing gear. Got two coats of Arm-R-Seal on this AM before having to switch to re-arranging things for the gazebo cartons, due here some time between noon and two.

I've got some spray gear, in storage, but then I'd likely have to veneer with birdseye maple or similar, and go like my Wavecor Ardent prototypes.



Would just drag things out longer...

[technodanvan]

I don't know how people spray without a permanent setup. It's just not my thing, I guess. I'll let theSven do all of that!

[JonMarsh]

Not much progress, unless you count moving the cabinet into the living room, and getting the first stage of gazebo construction progress!


Fabricating the connector panel's gaskets is next up... Saturday and Sunday are my Fundays...


Monday through Friday it's gazebo time... Mega-Light ladders are my helpers... very adjustable for height, and used to support the big horizontal beams while attaching...

[JonMarsh]

Sunday time ended up being split, but made some progress on LF assembly....

Orienting the cabinet on the furniture dolly makes the work a lot easier...




Next step was cutting out gasket pieces from 1/8" thick 1" wide adhesive backed neoprene- if I was doing a lot of these, I'd make a template! This was basically done free hand... like the name of the Gentle Giant album!



Then, it's moving the LF input panel into place, connecting the input leads to the crossover turret terminal, and running the Analysis Plus Oval 12 up to the output panel, which is the connection to the input for the MF-LF cabinet. Of course, you can substitute whatever connection cable you prefer- it's an intermediate price finished cable with spade lugs, and easier to work with than just Kimber 12C, which was the other possibility.

As always, if you try this build, DIYW.




Last step at this point was to turn over the plate and install with M4 30mm flat head stainless screws,




As Jack Reacher says from time to time, "Details matter"...

[JonMarsh]

Well, all the sub assembly work for roof rafters has been completed, and so per agreement I am working on speaker stuff this weekend...

In this case, it's the output panel to feed the full range signal into the MF-HF cabinet.

Not exactly the most complicated of tasks, but details matter.


Here, the Oval Analysis 12 pass through cable is looped and tie wrapped, and ready to feed through into the cabinet, and binding posts mounted and the cable connected...



The Oval Analysis is a pretty good full range cable with a braided construction to minimize loop inductance. Of course, you're free to substitute Cardas Clear or Clear Beyond, budget permitting! An option I considered briefly was SpeakOn cables from Canare 4S11 and connectors, but it short jumpers pre-assembled seem hard to come by, and the batch I have is reserved for another build.

Recall, M4 Rampa inserts were installed, and I selected M4 stainless flat head bolts to use with them, about 1.5 cm long.




Alignment check looks as expected...

As does assembly.