NC500 dual mono's in 1 case

[dar47]

I have need of a better 2 channel amp to plug the last hole in my down stairs setup. My current XPA-2 does double duty for music and theater feeding my Ardents but it's holding them back. Back when Ben was building his NC400's he showed me these Tenor amps and I love the look of them. The amp case has very expensive curved heat sinks that I don't want to try and replicate but their use of edge lit glass gave me an idea for the the display I thought was cool and the cherry front and trim is all me with the Ardents, my center and component stand. A version of this case with a metal front can be easily adapted as well. So the idea is to create a case that combines Trenor's amp with the sides looking like their pre-amp that doesn't have those expensive heat sinks.





Back



Pre-amp sides I will incorporate instead of the expansive heat sinks not needed.



Their new 350M even has a large edge lit piece of glass on top which I don't think we need.



Something tells me the Ardents will go nice with this look. :W



It's late but tomorrow I'll start with my idea to bump up the display cause it's DIY and we can.

[TEK]

Will you have those curved sides shown on the preamp as well?
I find the looks of these very interesting. Not yet at the point where I'll say that I will build them - but I'm tempted.
But I'm pritty sure that I will follow your leed on the display.
It will be round? And with a blue backlite? And driven with a small arduino? That would look very nice with the Marantz as well.
With two amps in one case, what information will the display show? Have you tought about where to get the power to drive the Arduino? The SMPS1200 has regulated 12v output on j4 (pin 1 and 2), maybe those can be used? If so I assume you must take it down to 5v, as that's what the Aurdino uses - if I recall correctly.
It might be a better idea to ask Jon if the system board could be fitted with an extra 5v output connector...

[dar47]

Sides will be angled from the bottom then back to the top like the pre-amp but the metal will be straight. I'm bringing the metal right to the top so the trim piece on the top looks like the amp. Ben says the metal work is easy for this. I'll get him to post the prelim of what he has got. I like the round portal look for the display and your right it matches our pre-pro look. Nothing says both you and Jon can't have a metal front for a finished case you want to display, it's just cost.

Bumped up Tenor display

They have just 1 piece of edge lite glass with some black masking behind it. I'm wanting 2 piece of glass, the back piece all etched and the front piece (sand basted with the Ncore symbol). here is the effect.



The frame for the little display will be constructed from aluminum channel for running LED strips like the following and you can see the solid etched back ground in this video.

Nothing to do if say you wanted Hypex's swoosh behind the Ncore symbol if you wanted.

So far in Autocad a 3" display looks nice but this will depend on what U height case you want and for me the wood front has to look beefy enough to keep the look.



I will sandblast the round surface in the Ncore symbol up front though. I have a place here in Wpg that did my kitchen pantry and cabinet doors in vinyl but they sand blast glass as well. 3" display cheep.

[JonMarsh]

Very interesting thoughts. I will follow what you guys are discussing with interest, but likely not have the time to contribute much, as I think my focus must be on wires and sparks for now. At this point all I'm immediately looking for is something serviceable to put boards in to test! The GhentAudio chassis seem to meet that need for me right now- in the future, who knows?

You guys are in charge of product cosmetics and their impact on future marketing! (we could role play this as if we were wanting to be a HiFi startup, and what kind of decisions to make regarding product development both for our selves and a larger market... though really, I think pleasing yourself is the most important. If we all exhibit good taste, say, like an Elon Musk or Steve Jobs, then the product features will take care of themselves! )

[dar47]

Display control

For you hardware, software development guys like you guys this would be a walk in the park but I'm far from a sparks and wire guy, haha

Voltages for the led is a consideration as 5v is needed for the led's but I don't want to make anything up before the controller. So what do you want your display to do? It could change colors depending on state of the amp, standby mode, power on, in protection, controllable color schemes and brightness by IR or Wifi remote and maybe touch sensitive on and off by touching the display or a sensor just under the front face (Ford's tail lift gate, haha), but I still want a power trigger. You can use a simple Arduino UNO or Mega if on board memory is not enough, add on Wifi or IR sensors go on the board. We are not powering long lengths of led strips so amp draw is not a worry. It's programmed with Arduino sketch (just c++) and held with on board memory. i think they have multiple inputs for different states to. Those boards are a little big though. I thought I would need to independently controlled 2 different led strips so I would either have to have individually addressed led's on strip or have 8 channels of RGB control from my board. Saw this and it's a consideration. This LED controller kit just requiring 12v supply with some easy pre built options in it but it only has 4 channels of control 3 - RGB and 1 white. This would work perfect if I make the back glass just a fade from a solid color led. he made 3 revisions of the board and adding those Darlington regs. makes 12v to 5v a snap. $40. bucks though.

http://thecustomgeek.com/kits/rgbw-led-controller/

Not a lot of wiring for this option but I don't like the little ad on wifi boards for playing with the display.

Another simple option if you just trigger on and have an on off switch at the back is buy 2 of these controllers and you have 1 startup look and you can use an app to twiddle with the display. They are small and can be mounted on the back of the front face of the case.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rgb-led-controllers/smartphone-or-tablet-wifi-compatible-rgb-multi-zone-controller-/1800/4374/

Still going to see what i can do with the Arduino board though.

[benthe8track]

I got solidworks up and running on the new rig. I think skipping the useless heat sinks is the way to go. Just spent a few minutes roughing out the construction. It will be a good opportunity to change somethings that bugged me about my case.
I think as it stands I'm just going to make a case for my dad. Depending where you guys end up with the electronics I would consider doing a small production batch for a group buy or something. Ultimately anything I can contribute would come towards the end of development cycle but I'm looking forward to see where this project goes.

[TEK]

Dar and Ben

I'm not sure I'm getting how/were you are thinking that the display should be mounted.
Could you put out a rough sketch or something to clearify?

Ben, do you know what actually controls the color of those leds? Is it the voltage passed on to them, frequencies or something else? Do you know how many amp it draws?

As a basic idea I think that it is good to use the simplest tool to get the job done.
I have some arduino nanos. They are 4cm long, but will probably work well for this. I think they were 5 dollar or so pr. arduino (pictures included).
If the only thing we want is to read some values of the amp and show different colors (no lcd output) it might be solvable with some much simpler hardware.
I also think that we have to be sure that we will not risk any unwanted effects on the amp itself, for example due to radio signals glose to the amp.



Getting a first version of the requirements of what the display should show will help finding good options

[dar47]

Thanks, TEK

Yes saw those and it is a great option for a static display when power is on you get 1 kind of look. Run a sketch for each strip and store on the Nano (limited memory). Just need to add a LCD amp before the strip and our strips would have no more then 6 lcd's on one glass edge, as the display is no more then 3" in diameter. Probably get this to try out.

Wire like this for one strip but the 5v out with 12v into the Nano may be more then enough to power 12 led's without the led amp.



Wire like this for 2 strips we need.



Add a strip led amp



Display mounting is a mini me version of this,

[dar47]

Ben,

When you get a chance can you attached a pdf of the Audocad drawing I sent, can't find it. With your render we can discuss the edge and wood trim, thanks.

[dar47]

If I go with a static display with 1 setup when power is on I don't need any boards or circuit. I can use 2 of these, they are 12v push the buttons till the display is how you like it. Simple no muss or fuss. If we go that way.:W

http://ledmontreal.com/en/led-connectors-and-accessories-led-montreal/rgb-led-strip-accessories/rgb-wired-controller-for-led-strips.html

[dar47]

Well tek, it may be a bit till the case is made but I should get a cost from you for a dual mono with your input boards, 1200 power supplies. may as well include any special cables. I can source all the other little stuff. Have to figure out a power trigger. I may throw everything in a cheap old case till Jon has done his thing and this should give time to work on the wood front for the Tenor look alike. If you could list what you got that would be great thanks. I'm considering 2 builds too.

[TEK]

Sure, no problem.
Could you email me your post address so that I can include the shipping cost as well?

[benthe8track]

Hey TEK, do you have those 3D files? I couldn't locate them in my email. Specifically, the NC500 and the Hypex input board.

[TEK]

Hey TEK, do you have those 3D files? I couldn't locate them in my email. Specifically, the NC500 and the Hypex input board.

I have sent them by mail. Let me know whats inside when you have had a look at them.

[benthe8track]

Need the details for whatever input board you want to use, even a 2D drawing just so I can locate the standoffs.

[benthe8track]

Conceptual view

[JonMarsh]

Here's the deal- what I'm doing is more than an input board, and will include protection and supply bypass as well. I was planning to make it plug into the NC500 board directly. So a setup like you've got drawn would be a problem unless you can make it deeper- or we have to find a right angle connector to wrapt it around to the back panel and design for that. Some of those pins carry very high current, so this is not a candidate for a ribbon cable.

BTW, is that a Hypex Supplied STEPs or similar 3D part for the NC500? TEK, could you send me those files, too?

BTW, on Friday they pulled the last of "their" plumbing out of "my" pluming, and I feel much better, and slept much better Friday and Saturday night.

OTOH, the procedure for doing that, well, the critical part only took about 2 seconds, but it's a good thing it was that fast, or the integrated pain level (pain severity X time) would probably have violated Geneva Conventions War crimes provisions on the treatment of prisoners....

[TEK]

For your information. The oem coverter cards has the same size holes as the smps as far as I recall. But while the smps and the nc500 has a metal plate below, the converter board does not.

Noe it would be grest to have some ideas about the size of the input board Jon is cooking up...

Ben, do you think it will be doable to stack 5 input boards and 3 smps into a box?
I'm thinking about a 5 channel amp, using a dedicated smps for the center channel and then two and two for the other 4 channels.
I think dar is thinking about a 3 channel amp.
Maybe it is possible to have a base design that supportd adding more amps?

[TEK]

Here's the deal- what I'm doing is more than an input board, and will include protection and supply bypass as well. I was planning to make it plug into the NC500 board directly. So a setup like you've got drawn would be a problem unless you can make it deeper- or we have to find a right angle connector to wrapt it around to the back panel and design for that. Some of those pins carry very high current, so this is not a candidate for a ribbon cable.

BTW, is that a Hypex Supplied STEPs or similar 3D part for the NC500? TEK, could you send me those files, too?

BTW, on Friday they pulled the last of "their" plumbing out of "my" pluming, and I feel much better, and slept much better Friday and Saturday night.

OTOH, the procedure for doing that, well, the critical part only took about 2 seconds, but it's a good thing it was that fast, or the integrated pain level (pain severity X time) would probably have violated Geneva Conventions War crimes provisions on the treatment of prisoners....

Ouch Jon - that did not sound any good!
Anyway, glad to here you are feeling a bit better dispice all that.
I have a step file for the nc500. Tought I had sendt it to you all, but seems like I had not.
Jon, I will email it to you right away. Let me know if you do not get it. If so I can figure out another way of handing it over.

[JonMarsh]

Looks like it made it- 18.7 MB attachment! :T

My apple mail account is usually OK up to 20MB.

[benthe8track]

Here's the deal- what I'm doing is more than an input board, and will include protection and supply bypass as well. I was planning to make it plug into the NC500 board directly. So a setup like you've got drawn would be a problem unless you can make it deeper- or we have to find a right angle connector to wrapt it around to the back panel and design for that. Some of those pins carry very high current, so this is not a candidate for a ribbon cable.

BTW, is that a Hypex Supplied STEPs or similar 3D part for the NC500? TEK, could you send me those files, too?

BTW, on Friday they pulled the last of "their" plumbing out of "my" pluming, and I feel much better, and slept much better Friday and Saturday night.

OTOH, the procedure for doing that, well, the critical part only took about 2 seconds, but it's a good thing it was that fast, or the integrated pain level (pain severity X time) would probably have violated Geneva Conventions War crimes provisions on the treatment of prisoners....

Glad to hear the worst is over.
I scaled it up a bit, there should be enough room if your board and the SMPS have a similar foot print. These are in no particular layout, just demonstrating the space.

For your information. The oem coverter cards has the same size holes as the smps as far as I recall. But while the smps and the nc500 has a metal plate below, the converter board does not.

Noe it would be grest to have some ideas about the size of the input board Jon is cooking up...

Ben, do you think it will be doable to stack 5 input boards and 3 smps into a box?
I'm thinking about a 5 channel amp, using a dedicated smps for the center channel and then two and two for the other 4 channels.
I think dar is thinking about a 3 channel amp.
Maybe it is possible to have a base design that supportd adding more amps?

It looks like that would fit. You would mount them vertically along the braces, just with different spacing.

Getting closer:

[dar47]

Jon, so glad your over that and feeling more comfortable.

Not bad with a little conference design time, Ben did this in 3 hours! I pushed for 4u height and full depth as the front wood and portal hole for the display will look close to the Tenor. I wanted angled sides but I think his straight heat sinks will work well. Top trim pieces may get a little thinner as the model now looks a little chunky to me but I do like. This will need tall feet and I may combine wood with something like the Tenor. Front wood based on a 2" wood slab but it may get a little thinner based on a rotary cut piece of cherry I can source.

TEK, I think this can be altered with steel front and maybe brought down to 3U but it does look like you could do a five channel 2 power supply or at least a 3 channel. Open to any layout ideas? Jon ordering amp parts this week but can wait to see how big your input board is.

[TEK]

I like it and are getting more and morr sold on the wooden front.
My setup will be one of the following:
Option 1: two monoblocks (1 nc500 and 1 smps pr block) + one 5 channel amp (5 nc500 and 3 smps)
Option 2: one dual monoblock + one 5 channel amp (5 nc500 and 3 smps)
Option 3: one 7 channel amp
Option 3 is not likely - I'm a bit consern about sound quality, this would be the most space efficient solution, if you could cramp it all in there.
Option 1 is tge setup I have today and are most comfortable with. Short cable runs from the amps to the speakers.
I do however see that option 2 has some production advantages...

When it comes to the board Jon is designing - as it is likely to contain a Jensen transformer I'm quite sure it will be larger than the converter board...

[JonMarsh]

Some very nice lookin stuff here, guys!

I'm also looking at configurations for test assembly, (dual mono in one box) will probably be able to make a decision and order this weekend (I'm on a leave the home at 5:30AM, get home at 7:30PM schedule this week (ugly by my standards, for sure) so no real spare time in the evening. I may also get in a chassis order for another experiment, an 80-100W/channel class A reference design, which funny enough, has been inspired by some of the work I'm doing on this project, but uses what I'm calling an "analog modulator" gain stage and output which will plug into the balanced differential low noise front end the same way as an NC500 module, though I haven't planned to setup the connector the same, I suppose there's no real reason I shouldn't?

I do plan to be putting together one of the mono chassis and OEM adapter board and supplies, so that I can do baseline evaluations and characterize where we are in the "stock" configuration, as well as setup and test the NAD M22 as a commercial example. It will likely take me some time to get the assembly done, so testing might not occur until later in next week (no Silicon Valley commute next week!)

Other than that, I am in layout now for an initial test adapter design board which will support testing different regulator concepts (money talks, nobody walks, how much do you want to spend?) and different front ends via jumpers to the feed to the NC500.

Just forget I mentioned this class A thing, it sort of floated up after thinking about the idea of whether it was possible to have a consistent overall amplifier architecture and replaceable/update able building blocks in key locations- which of course leads to the concept of an "analog modulator" as well as a "class D modulator" (NC500), which would both use a similar high performance low noise balanced differential input buffer amplifier/feedback summer in a NCORE style setup...

Seriously, though, there are points like that we should discuss- cost for the regulator/balanced receiver driver. For example, I can design fairly flexible low noise regulator circuits with minimum parts count (easy assembly) using CRD's (Current Regulator Diodes) for reference circuits, which are not diodes, but actually spealized depletion mode JFETs in an axial package, but these parts aren't cheap, typically $6.00 each. You can get a pretty fair IC regulator; you can construct a good discrete current source for a discrete design but it takes more parts and as a current source won't be as quiet or well behaived as a CRD... Trade-offs, I think you get my drift.

Any way, I'm working up some alternative solutions, and will be in a position to run them by you with some approximate BOM's soon.


BTW, I'm down in Santa Clara at an Advanced Training course for SIMPLIS right now, posting over my iPad Pro which is using my iPhone as a LTE-WiFi router. Modern live is both inconvenient and wonderful, eh?

[JonMarsh]

I like it and are getting more and morr sold on the wooden front.
My setup will be one of the following:
Option 1: two monoblocks (1 nc500 and 1 smps pr block) + one 5 channel amp (5 nc500 and 3 smps)
Option 2: one dual monoblock + one 5 channel amp (5 nc500 and 3 smps)
Option 3: one 7 channel amp
Option 3 is not likely - I'm a bit consern about sound quality, this would be the most space efficient solution, if you could cramp it all in there.
Option 1 is tge setup I have today and are most comfortable with. Short cable runs from the amps to the speakers.
I do however see that option 2 has some production advantages...

When it comes to the board Jon is designing - as it is likely to contain a Jensen transformer I'm quite sure it will be larger than the converter board...

we can do a board without the transformer if you guys like that, but then there is also the DC protection relay thing- do you want to rely only on the integrity of the NCORE modules, or so you want to have backup? Me, I'm old school, I'd like backup, so.... DC sensing and a protection/time delay relay seem like a good idea.

Another thing is that I plan to put some additional storage bypass with 100V power caps on the board, JUST LIKE NAD does in their design. I'm really figuring that the least you want to wind up with is something that measures and sounds as good as a M22? :W

We can also design a relatively minimalist board based on the OEM adapter designs with only small cheap selected enhancements.

But I can see that depending on your option above, you may want different solutions... Let's talk.

[TEK]

From my point of view there are two different usages to evaluate here.

First it is the monoblock design. For me two monoblocks, for most of you a dual mono construction).
This is to drive my Ardent's and I'm really looking for the best possible solution (ok, within some limits).

My other need is a multichannel amp to drive the center, side and back channels. For these channels I'm more set on the best solution within a budget (maybe an exception for the center channel).

Based on this I think going for a high quality solution for a mono amp is the right place to start.
When we have that wrapped up it will be easier to get a feeling about the cost and from that evaluate if a more resonable priced version is nessesarly.
If we start to scale the board down so much that is getting close to the oem board we soon will have to ask avout why we are doing this instead of just use the oem board ;-)

Just my 5, will be interesting to here from darell and ben about how they think!

[dar47]

Well my take is we are starting ahead of the game with TEK's nice OEM prices, Thanks again:T I am building a case that seemed simple at first until I had to source that cherry slab. Had a 12/4 flat cut piece with great growth ring showing with no knots or checking in my hand for $150. Put it back as I felt bad I would be shaping most of it in the garbage. I can't go with the ebayer's as they claim low price but have high shipping and it's not in my hand for careful inspection. To bring a piece in, it will be longer and probably more money. So maybe that's why Tenor charges so much. Along that line the front is going to be a lot of work to shape a perfect front like Tenor. I sold my 2 channel and my pre is soon to be gone as well and I'm probably going to add a Moon NEO 350P (can't go anywhere near the evolution series) as I want nothing in the way of the Ardents being held back. This is $3,700. just for the pre. Highest end with theater bypass and sub out, 10 year warranty. This is a great price for this new pre where I am.

So for the dual mono yes lets do something that improves sound and has no anomalies in the measurements. As far as I'm concerned lets start with (it is what it is) to beat Ncore 400 and NAD. We are considering coming from a wall and we know the target they are pushing. This will put me in a great position to evaluate any dac for the future. I will always have a pre in front and a clean amp now just evaluate dac and only upgrade if it's better! Not sure on storage caps pushing the SMPS700 is this for speed or something else? Connections as clean as possible is worth it to.

Tek if you going with our case concept we should try to get a layout for Jon's input, 2 SMPS and 3 amps in a 4U case. For the dual mono in 1 case I would bet we need to stop those dividers short somewhere or take them out. Jon if you can get a estimate on you maximum foot print we can arrange from there. So is the input more then say $250. as I will play the game Jon cause you can now show me the money with measurements, haha.

[JonMarsh]

Being an old school kind of guy without a lot of spare time for chassis construction, I ordered the parts to make this for my Dual Mono chassis today.




you can tell I grew up in the 70's... :W

Pondering if I'll install SpeakOns as well as binding post terminals (probably will use the same Vampire posts I prefer on the speakers...)



Inputs will just be balanced Neutrik.

[dar47]

Ah, have to give us the dimensions as it looks smaller in depth then mine? If you can squeeze into that I should be okay.

[JonMarsh]

Full rack size width, 400mm depth. Hopefully I'm not going to have an "oops, I did it again" moment after I go back and recheck dimensions.... :W

[benthe8track]

Being an old school kind of guy without a lot of spare time for chassis construction, I ordered the parts to make this for my Dual Mono chassis today.




you can tell I grew up in the 70's... :W

Pondering if I'll install SpeakOns as well as binding post terminals (probably will use the same Vampire posts I prefer on the speakers...)



Inputs will just be balanced Neutrik.

What are the details for that unit? Looks like that could be a good candidate for modifying with some simple laser cut parts. If the bottom plate is fastened in it's a simple matter to replace it with holes laser cut in the right places for standoffs/ect.

[JonMarsh]

What are the details for that unit? Looks like that could be a good candidate for modifying with some simple laser cut parts. If the bottom plate is fastened in it's a simple matter to replace it with holes laser cut in the right places for standoffs/ect.

It comes from the new vendor for the DIYAUDIO forum site- in fact, I placed the order yesterday, and got shipping confirmation today. Interesting re your comments, it has an aluminum bottom cover plate, but also an option for a steel base plate, which I ordered. I'm at Starbucks heading in to the last day of training on SIMPLIS this week, but I'll email you details either this evening or Saturday.

[JonMarsh]

Front End buffer/feedback summer selection and testing

I've been collecting a series of parts to evaluate for the front end at different price points, including the best of TI's Overture series op amps.

But today I ordered some samples of the real high end solution (possibly), custom designed/manufactured CLASS A operational amplifier modules conforming to the Jensen 990 foot print (this is the basis of a lot of Boulder Sound's stuff in the past..)


Becuase this one is JFET input and most closely resembles the DIY modules I was building and encapsulating back in the 70's, I'm trying this one first- ordered 4 this AM, at about $69 each.

http://www.sonicimagerylabs.com/products/Model995FET-Ticha.html

They have a bipolar version, as well as smaller versions that are compatible with conventional OpAmp sockets but can't deliver as much current. If one of those seems like it fits the needs better, or at a different price point, I'll try them too.

Now, this is all part of a meglomanical master plan of mine... I feel a disturbance in the force, and a pull toward becoming a Dark Sith apprentice to Bruno.

Anyway, the things I have been thinking about beyond the Class D stuff are...

1) A preamp, balanced input and output using the same pro style architecture that Bruno promotes for the Mola Mola preamp (but I would probably not use single ended differential drive for the output but full balanced)

2) An 80-100W Class A amplifier using the NCORE style architecture; that is, a differential input buffer to differential output driving the power modulator, and an "analog Power Modulator" using a similar gain structure but likely lower impedances, with full balanced differential output, not single ended, but overall operating as a power block in the same way as the NCORE Class D modules. There's a case available from DIYAUDIO's Italian vendor that looks suitable- the deluxe 5U version. Has the necessary heat sink Rth.

I shall likely have to turn that over to Evil Twin for development, as something that evil is likely beyond my modest capabilities... :B :P

[TEK]

It comes from the new vendor for the DIYAUDIO forum site- in fact, I placed the order yesterday, and got shipping confirmation today. Interesting re your comments, it has an aluminum bottom cover plate, but also an option for a steel base plate, which I ordered. I'm at Starbucks heading in to the last day of training on SIMPLIS this week, but I'll email you details either this evening or Saturday.

Hi
I vent over to DIY audio and checked out their store. I thought there were something familiar with the names...
And I figured out why. This is where I got my mono cases:

https://www.modushop.biz/site/

It's the same supplier, Hi-Fi 2000.

I think my eas the Galaxy model. You could easy replace top, bottom, back and front plates.
Very nice cabinets!

[JonMarsh]

Yes, I think they are- and they offer reasonable collections of options, including a good layout for the pre-punched 4U NAD 5U back panels.

[benthe8track]

A little bit of refinement yesterday and today. I may get the heat sinks machined if I can't find an appropriate blank:

[dar47]

Very good Ben, your bringing Minion to a whole new level! When you get a chance you should post up the metal front option. Only thing on the model is easing those sharp corners every where on the wood. Wonder if little slots or dots is easier for venting. Now if those heat sinks aren't $500 to produce we should be good to Go.

Funny how when we swapped parts in and out you can pretty well lock in on what Tenor did. I don't know if they were working in metric or not but they like the number 3/8. 1 3/8" thick finished front before rounding and the top strips are 3/8" thick.

[JonMarsh]

Very classy, Ben... I don't think I'll be able to match that just by slapping a piece of Cocobolo over my silver front panels... :W

Very 21st century, with all the organic curves. Who will make that heatsink with the variable width fins? the beveling on the top of the fins is a nice touch, too!

Too bad I'm mired in the 70's.... :B

[TEK]

Very nice Ben!
The fins really up's the layout I must say.

But there are something "strange" about the first render. For me it seems like the lower part of the fins are straight, and not variable with as shown on the lower rendring. Probably just something with the angle that throws me off. I'm a bit curious about how the lower part of the fins look. Could you make some rendering from other angles as well?

I'm also a bit curious about manufacturing those fins. Looks complicated (and therby expensive...).

Dar: What kind of wood are you thinking about using? You mentioned cherry in a previous post. Is that because that is what you think Tenor is using - or some other reason?
I must say that if I'm going to build these I'm wondering about using Walnut. That would go nicly with my Ardents :-)
I do however think that it would have to be regular walnut - and not burl - dont think I will be able to get my hands on a pice of walnut burl - like this guy for example:

Image not available

[benthe8track]

Thanks guys, maybe this pic is more clear.



Jon, once all the geometry is locked in I'll send the STEP files out for quote on the fins. I may eve try eMachine shop, I've never used them before.

[dar47]

Haha, that piece of burl would be a kings ransom!

Yes Tenor uses flat cut cherry and my speaks and stand have cherry. Glad you are thinking Walnut as Ben may do a walnut one as well. I have got to make my plan for a Gantry router jig to rout the curved front. With this I'm going to get some metal rails cut to match the radius of the curved front. I can get you some made for you too or get a front 90% made for you as I have a feeling I am making at least 2. I could do one for Jon to if he was willing to step out of the 70's, haha.

The Jig will be similar to this.

[dar47]

Going to send my pre-amp to the new owner on the West coast so I'm back to just a Marantz AV7005 and EMO 5 channel amp. More Netflix less music, the rack looks empty.

Ordered the new Moon Neo 350P but that's a 4 to 6 week wait as I went with the 2 tone. All silver is 6 Months, guess those are very popular in the far East.

[JonMarsh]

The case from HiFi 2000 in Italy just arrived- color this 70's guy impressed!

Film at 11...

[JonMarsh]

Surprised how fast it got here- very nicely packed. If I did more DIY electronics I'd probably be going nuts over these guys...











I think ET might be interested in one of the bigger versions of these....

[dar47]

Ah, nice bolt and go! Still think you should do a Tenor and I bet the girl friend would like that in the living room with that sub. :W

Finally sourced some 8/4 cherry with a great flat cut grain. They had 2 pieces 8' x 9" wide and a 10' x 8" wide. He said take what you want as long as there is 30" left off either end. I took 30" x 9" right where the grain was the best. $50. bucks! I previously went back to another place that I put a 12/4 piece back on the shelf that was $150. I didn't want to murder it and throw all that cherry out. This felt like Christmas as I was thinking I might have to order in a 8/4 x 8' piece in and couldn't see the grain before it was payed for.