Mini curved Statements II

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  • Andy_F
    Member
    • Aug 2018
    • 49

    Mini curved Statements II

    Hi all,

    I'm brand new to the forum but have been actively looking into a new set of towers.

    Historically I'm not new to cabinet building, my father and I have previously built a pair of Ariel Transmission speakers: http://www.nutshellhifi.com/Ariel-4.gif and paired them with an "Almighty Subwoofer" using a 15" JBL driver!

    Now I've got my own house (detached thankfully!) I can build my own decent system! Woohoo! :B

    Anyhow, after spending countless hours of reading and researching, I decided a pair of Statements II were for me. I've not heard them in person, but have not yet read a single bad review.

    Last week I ordered the kit from Meniscus and today it landed on my doorstep (Mark's service is second to none btw).

    I figured forgiveness is easier than permission, so I didn't tell my better half how big the units would end up being...

    ...She hasn't forgiven me... :roll:

    I needed to seriously increase the WAF and have revised the design but want to run it by the experts on here before proceeding.

    The total internal volume is 24% less than the standard Statements II but the transmission lines are exactly the same length. From reading other posts and I have the un-shielded Daytons, I believe this won't negatively affect the sound too much?

    This is my re-design:

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    I intend to build the frame from MDF with layered plywood to form the curved sides. Final finish is yet to be decided.

    Please let me have your thoughts. :T

    Andy
    Last edited by theSven; 06 April 2023, 18:39 Thursday. Reason: Update image location
  • Supernova
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2017
    • 108

    #2
    Can't comment on your plan, but will definitely be watching the thread. What cad program did you use?

    Comment

    • Jim Holtz
      Ultra Senior Member
      • Mar 2005
      • 3223

      #3
      Originally posted by Andy_F
      Hi all,

      I'm brand new to the forum but have been actively looking into a new set of towers.

      Historically I'm not new to cabinet building, my father and I have previously built a pair of Ariel Transmission speakers: http://www.nutshellhifi.com/Ariel-4.gif and paired them with an "Almighty Subwoofer" using a 15" JBL driver!

      Now I've got my own house (detached thankfully!) I can build my own decent system! Woohoo! :B

      Anyhow, after spending countless hours of reading and researching, I decided a pair of Statements II were for me. I've not heard them in person, but have not yet read a single bad review.

      Last week I ordered the kit from Meniscus and today it landed on my doorstep (Mark's service is second to none btw).

      I figured forgiveness is easier than permission, so I didn't tell my better half how big the units would end up being...

      ...She hasn't forgiven me... :roll:

      I needed to seriously increase the WAF and have revised the design but want to run it by the experts on here before proceeding.

      The total internal volume is 24% less than the standard Statements II but the transmission lines are exactly the same length. From reading other posts and I have the un-shielded Daytons, I believe this won't negatively affect the sound too much?

      This is my re-design:









      I intend to build the frame from MDF with layered plywood to form the curved sides. Final finish is yet to be decided.

      Please let me have your thoughts. :T

      Andy
      Hi Andy,

      Take a look at Deewan's Statements II Remix for a very similar build. https://www.htguide.com/forum/showth...ghlight=Deewan

      The reduced volume will work fine with the unshielded RS225's. Make sure you end up with 70 - 75 liters net for the bass drivers. Ported F/3 will be the same as the originals in a smaller cabinet.

      If you can rear port it and you can position the port low enough so that it isn't behind the lower RS225, it's the easiest method. However, it would need to be below the lowest woofer. Down porting also works fine with a couple caveats. Either use 3" tall spikes to allow enough room for it to breathe or cut a trough out the back of the base plate in the lower 3 layers. I cut mine 5" wide but I didn't have a curved cabinet so size to fit. That will ensure the port can breathe properly. The trough is definitely recommended for all builds and needed if they sit on thick carpet.

      As always, the ribbon should be positioned at seated ear level for best sound quality. 38" - 42" usually nails it depending on your seated ear height.

      Everyone that has changed the driver layout has been happy with the sound but, Curt hasn't been able to measure or listen to one so he's never given his seal of approval.

      Good luck with the build!

      Jim
      Last edited by theSven; 06 April 2023, 18:42 Thursday. Reason: Update image location and htguide url

      Comment

      • Andy_F
        Member
        • Aug 2018
        • 49

        #4
        Hi Supernova, I've used SketchUp.

        Comment

        • Andy_F
          Member
          • Aug 2018
          • 49

          #5
          Thanks very much for the info Jim, and it's great to hear from the main man himself.

          Total internal volume is: 74.55 Litres! So I'm happy with that!

          The top of the port is 20.7mm lower than the bottom 8" Dayton, an option would be to mount the bottom driver slightly higher up if that would improve things?

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          Thanks again and best wishes,

          Andy
          Last edited by theSven; 06 April 2023, 18:43 Thursday. Reason: Update image location

          Comment

          • Andy_F
            Member
            • Aug 2018
            • 49

            #6
            I don't know why I can't post a big picture of the port drawing...

            *Another edit* I've just realised I can click on it to enlarge it...

            Comment

            • Jim Holtz
              Ultra Senior Member
              • Mar 2005
              • 3223

              #7
              Originally posted by Andy_F
              Thanks very much for the info Jim, and it's great to hear from the main man himself.

              Total internal volume is: 74.55 Litres! So I'm happy with that!

              The top of the port is 20.7mm lower than the bottom 8" Dayton, an option would be to mount the bottom driver slightly higher up if that would improve things?




              Thanks again and best wishes,

              Andy
              Hi Andy,

              If it were me, I'd tighten up the spacing of the bass drivers and possibly move them up a bit closer to the lower mid if possible to gain more room at the bottom for more port clearance. That's probably just being OCD but it won't hurt a thing if you do. BTW, be sure to maintain the speced MTM spacing.

              HTH

              Jim
              Last edited by theSven; 06 April 2023, 18:43 Thursday. Reason: Update image location

              Comment

              • Andy_F
                Member
                • Aug 2018
                • 49

                #8
                Thanks for the advice Jim, I've revised the drawings - raising the bottom drivers up so they are 1.34" higher than the port.

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                I kept the MTM exactly the same, as I had read how crucial the spacing was

                To ensure there is breathing space under the tower, I've decided to mount the spikes within some cylinder feet which will maintain at least a 2" gap at the bottom. Additionally by doing this it allows the total height to be adjusted through 46.5" to 48.5" (so that I can tweak the height to ensure I'm sat in the sweet spot for the ribbons).

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                The revised design size:

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                Last edited by theSven; 06 April 2023, 18:45 Thursday. Reason: Update image location

                Comment

                • Andy_F
                  Member
                  • Aug 2018
                  • 49

                  #9
                  So I've started to build!

                  The cutting of the base. I started by sizing the MDF sheet into 400mm by 500mm cuboids and then hand drawing the curve.

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                  I then cut the first curved side. Using the off-cuts I flipped them over and used them as the template for the opposite side to ensure the curve was symmetrical.

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                  Once the first base section was sanded smooth, this was used as the template for all the subsequent base section cuts.

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                  Within a couple of hours I had all 8 sections cut to form the bases for the cabinets.

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                  The next part was to ensure the port was perfectly central and copied exactly between each sheet. As I don't have a pillar drill, I aligned two base sections and using the top one as the guide I plunged the router directly through both sheets to ensure a vertical well aligned central guide point.

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                  Second base section which is to be cut with the 9" port breather (lovingly titled "Big Hole" so that I don't mis-cut it! Haha):

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                  Once the 9" is cut, this will form the template for all the other cuts.

                  I'm currently cutting the 3" diameter for the precision port tube:

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                  Hopefully over the next week I'll have the port holes cut and then then slabs will be glued and clamped to form the two base sections.

                  Andy
                  Last edited by theSven; 06 April 2023, 18:52 Thursday. Reason: Update image location

                  Comment

                  • Jim Holtz
                    Ultra Senior Member
                    • Mar 2005
                    • 3223

                    #10
                    Hi Andy,

                    looking good! I think that moving the bottom woors closer together and up on the cabinet was a positive move. :T

                    I would still suggest you cut a channel out the back if the base in the bottom 3 panels of the base. It's really simple to do and ensures that you'll not have any restriction for the port.

                    Jim

                    Comment

                    • Andy_F
                      Member
                      • Aug 2018
                      • 49

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Jim Holtz
                      Hi Andy,

                      looking good! I think that moving the bottom woors closer together and up on the cabinet was a positive move. :T

                      I would still suggest you cut a channel out the back if the base in the bottom 3 panels of the base. It's really simple to do and ensures that you'll not have any restriction for the port.

                      Jim
                      Hi Jim,

                      Like this?

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                      Andy
                      Last edited by theSven; 06 April 2023, 18:52 Thursday. Reason: Update image location

                      Comment

                      • Jim Holtz
                        Ultra Senior Member
                        • Mar 2005
                        • 3223

                        #12
                        Hi Andy,

                        Yes, that is exactly what I'm talking about. That insure plenty of breathing room for the port.

                        Jim

                        Comment

                        • Heli-Tim
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2015
                          • 159

                          #13
                          Very cool build! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

                          Comment

                          • Andy_F
                            Member
                            • Aug 2018
                            • 49

                            #14
                            So today I've been busy!

                            Sizing and flaring the ports by hand.

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                            To cut the 9" diameter vents I grabbed a spare plank of wood.

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                            Then put the router through and measured back 4.5" and put a second hole through.

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                            To check the measurement was accurate, I used a pencil in the hole.

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                            I fixed the router to the plank and voila! One accurate circle cutter.

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                            The first cut was then used as a template for the remaining slabs.

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                            I then moved onto the 5" breather ports that are cut into the rear section of the slabs. Again it was a matter of make the template and transfer to the other slabs.

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                            Loosely put together

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                            Both sets ready for the next stage...

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                            Andy
                            Last edited by theSven; 06 April 2023, 18:58 Thursday. Reason: Update image location

                            Comment

                            • Steve Manning
                              Moderator
                              • Dec 2006
                              • 1879

                              #15
                              Progressing nicely .... looking good so far.
                              Hold on to your butts - It's about to get Musical!



                              WEBSITE: http://www.smjaudio.com/

                              Comment

                              • Jim Holtz
                                Ultra Senior Member
                                • Mar 2005
                                • 3223

                                #16
                                That looks perfect! Great job!

                                Jim

                                Comment

                                • Supernova
                                  Senior Member
                                  • Mar 2017
                                  • 108

                                  #17
                                  Originally posted by Andy_F
                                  Hi Supernova, I've used SketchUp.
                                  I tried to get Sketup online working via the Brave/Chromium/Firefox browsers on Linux Mint, but no luck. I have no idea what the problem was or is, but I gave-up and decided to give FreeCAD a go and I'm currently working through the youtube tutorials.

                                  You're build is coming along nicely. Great job with you templates and build progress.

                                  Comment

                                  • Andy_F
                                    Member
                                    • Aug 2018
                                    • 49

                                    #18
                                    Originally posted by Supernova
                                    I tried to get Sketup online working via the Brave/Chromium/Firefox browsers on Linux Mint, but no luck. I have no idea what the problem was or is, but I gave-up and decided to give FreeCAD a go and I'm currently working through the youtube tutorials.

                                    You're build is coming along nicely. Great job with you templates and build progress.
                                    That's a shame you couldn't get SketchUp working - it's a fantastic resource.

                                    Comment

                                    • Andy_F
                                      Member
                                      • Aug 2018
                                      • 49

                                      #19
                                      So the next part of the build was to accurately transfer the design and internal dimensions to a real item. I screenshot the dimensions (these are in millimeters not inches!).

                                      Drawing template:

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                                      Transferring to the slab of MDF (which will form the template for all the other internal curves).

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                                      These were roughly cut using a fine tooth jigsaw blade and then sanded down to the line:

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                                      Leaving me with this rough mock-up of the base plate (I've still got to cut the 3" hole).

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                                      If I get time tomorrow evening, I'll use my straight router bit to copy the design over to the other internal slabs and then cut them accordingly: another with a 3" and then x4 shelf braces and x2 brace with cut-outs.

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                                      Andy
                                      Last edited by theSven; 06 April 2023, 21:11 Thursday. Reason: Update image location

                                      Comment

                                      • Andy_F
                                        Member
                                        • Aug 2018
                                        • 49

                                        #20
                                        My amplifier has two sets of binding posts on the output, either 4ohm or 8ohm. Which binding posts would I hook the speakers up to? *confused*

                                        Comment

                                        • Jim Holtz
                                          Ultra Senior Member
                                          • Mar 2005
                                          • 3223

                                          #21
                                          Originally posted by Andy_F
                                          My amplifier has two sets of binding posts on the output, either 4ohm or 8ohm. Which binding posts would I hook the speakers up to? *confused*
                                          4 ohm should work fine.

                                          Jim

                                          Comment

                                          • Andy_F
                                            Member
                                            • Aug 2018
                                            • 49

                                            #22
                                            I'm now approaching the last cuts and have started to glue things together! Before I get too far I have a really important question!

                                            I've only ever built speakers with the crossover mounted in a separate box OUTSIDE of the cabinets and intended to do the same with these MCSIIs, the reasons I've read are two-fold:

                                            "When components are placed into equipment, which is consequently stressed by vibrations. Capacitors, which are sensitive to the stress, transform vibrations into an electrical signal. The signal could appear on the component as an additional spurious noise and thus it can interfere together with original signal and degrade it. The degradation of the signal usually leads to undesirable deformation of electrical features of the component and consequently bad functionality of the complete equipment".

                                            Secondly, XO components can be susceptible to heat generated by drivers when they are going "full-chat" for a prolonged period so housing them externally in a vented box would completely eliminate heat from drivers.

                                            Additionally, having the drivers wired to an external XO, could potentially allow the implementation of bi-wiring more easily, and easier access to upgrade XO components in the future.


                                            Jim, obviously your design incorporated the XO INSIDE the cabinets:

                                            1) Would I have to reduce internal volume accordingly to compensate for the missing XO volume?
                                            2) Does the XO design allow for potential bi-wiring or is this a strictly "no-go"?

                                            Just for clarity I intended to built two separate vented boxes for both the L & R towers.

                                            Thanks,

                                            Andy

                                            Comment

                                            • Jim Holtz
                                              Ultra Senior Member
                                              • Mar 2005
                                              • 3223

                                              #23
                                              Originally posted by Andy_F
                                              I'm now approaching the last cuts and have started to glue things together! Before I get too far I have a really important question!

                                              I've only ever built speakers with the crossover mounted in a separate box OUTSIDE of the cabinets and intended to do the same with these MCSIIs, the reasons I've read are two-fold:

                                              "When components are placed into equipment, which is consequently stressed by vibrations. Capacitors, which are sensitive to the stress, transform vibrations into an electrical signal. The signal could appear on the component as an additional spurious noise and thus it can interfere together with original signal and degrade it. The degradation of the signal usually leads to undesirable deformation of electrical features of the component and consequently bad functionality of the complete equipment".

                                              Secondly, XO components can be susceptible to heat generated by drivers when they are going "full-chat" for a prolonged period so housing them externally in a vented box would completely eliminate heat from drivers.

                                              Additionally, having the drivers wired to an external XO, could potentially allow the implementation of bi-wiring more easily, and easier access to upgrade XO components in the future.


                                              Jim, obviously your design incorporated the XO INSIDE the cabinets:

                                              1) Would I have to reduce internal volume accordingly to compensate for the missing XO volume?
                                              2) Does the XO design allow for potential bi-wiring or is this a strictly "no-go"?

                                              Just for clarity I intended to built two separate vented boxes for both the L & R towers.

                                              Thanks,

                                              Andy
                                              Hi Andy,

                                              Mounting the crossover internally won't make any difference in volume or affect the crossover components. The heat would come from over driving the resistors in the mid circuit rather than from the drivers. Curt and I recommend either using Zisters or paralleling the the appropriate size resistors to increase power handling with space so the resistors aren't touching for speakers that are going to be used hard at very high volumes for extended periods of time.

                                              Bi-wiring is simply a matter of separating the bass circuit binding post from the mid/ribbon. It's an advantage if you have a smaller amp that you want to use for the mid/ribbon and a larger amp for the bass. Honestly, if you have good amps with plenty of power capability, I've never heard a difference in bi-amping. Be careful to make sure the rate of gain is the same for both amps to eliminate mismatches.

                                              HTH

                                              Jim

                                              Comment

                                              • Andy_F
                                                Member
                                                • Aug 2018
                                                • 49

                                                #24
                                                Originally posted by Jim Holtz
                                                Hi Andy,

                                                Mounting the crossover internally won't make any difference in volume or affect the crossover components. The heat would come from over driving the resistors in the mid circuit rather than from the drivers. Curt and I recommend either using Zisters or paralleling the the appropriate size resistors to increase power handling with space so the resistors aren't touching for speakers that are going to be used hard at very high volumes for extended periods of time.

                                                Bi-wiring is simply a matter of separating the bass circuit binding post from the mid/ribbon. It's an advantage if you have a smaller amp that you want to use for the mid/ribbon and a larger amp for the bass. Honestly, if you have good amps with plenty of power capability, I've never heard a difference in bi-amping. Be careful to make sure the rate of gain is the same for both amps to eliminate mismatches.

                                                HTH

                                                Jim

                                                Thanks for the advice Jim, I'll therefore keep the XO within the speakers and leave enough cable if I need to remove them to change parts / set-up. It'll mean a tidy finish too - rather than having two additional boxes to lump around!

                                                Andy

                                                Comment

                                                • Andy_F
                                                  Member
                                                  • Aug 2018
                                                  • 49

                                                  #25
                                                  So to continue with the build update:

                                                  I began with a "dry-run" to ensure that parts lined up as I wanted and allowed me to determine where to clamp when things got sticky!

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                                                  Once happy, I then started with the glue!

                                                  Each slab was vacuumed to ensure there was no remaining dust and a good clean contact. Glue was applied liberally, and rolled to ensure a uniform even finish.

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                                                  Once each slab was glued and laid upon the previous slab, the clamps were re-applied and each piece carefully aligned before tightening.

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                                                  Any slight excess glue that seeped from edges was wiped with good old kitchen roll!

                                                  The bases were left for 24 hours to fully allow the glue to set.

                                                  Once fully dry, the edges were gently sanded to remove any excess glue spots and to ensure the slabs were perfectly flush.

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                                                  I then smoothed the internal breather port and used a router to put a slight curve on the outlet to ensure there were no hard edges for the air to hit!

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                                                  I repeated with the right hand speaker base and aligned the two to ensure each was identical.

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                                                  And they were! :T

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                                                  The next stage was aligning the internal base slab in which the port will affix through. I measured 15mm to each side and using the internal slab as a guide, I drew a marked area which I will router out 10mm deep - to help ensure the plywood sides curve perfectly inline with the internals and to add additional surface area for the glue to help bind the tower to the base.

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                                                  The internal slab was then vacuumed and liberally covered in glue (again using the foam roller) and clamped in place.

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                                                  Using a core drill, I then cut 60mm feet from some building timber.

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                                                  A D-thread was inserted to accommodate my speaker spikes (M10 size)

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                                                  This will allow approximately 2" of travel to tweak the sweet spot of the ribbon height to be level with my seated listening position. :T

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                                                  The next stage was the pre-marking of the front baffle with the driver positioning.

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                                                  With the obligatory "stood up shot" to get an idea on the final look. (I still need to trim approximately 4" from the bottom of the slab though)

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                                                  So tonight when I got in from work I made a start on cutting through the internal baffle to accommodate the port...

                                                  This is when things went wrong... :M

                                                  The router guide slipped and cut a chunk out of the perfectly sized port hole (top part on this picture).

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                                                  I was making multiple slight passes (getting deeper each time) hence why there is an odd-shaped break-through hole revealing the bench underneath.

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                                                  I'm absolutely gutted...

                                                  I decided to leave it for tonight otherwise I think I'd maybe it worse in a rush to correct it.

                                                  I'll sleep on it, and hopefully some wood filler will make it good once the plastic port is in place. :Z :lol:


                                                  Andy
                                                  Last edited by theSven; 06 April 2023, 21:20 Thursday. Reason: Update image location

                                                  Comment

                                                  • ergo
                                                    Senior Member
                                                    • Mar 2005
                                                    • 675

                                                    #26
                                                    It's smart to sleep on such problems for sure. Don't beat yourself too much. This is in a way a lucky mistake from the possible ones as it's under the footing and will not be visible on ready speaker. These small issues do happen even if a good care is taken and one thinks things through. I had a few small mishaps on Ardent build as well. Mostly inside the cabinet but some small also outside. I was able to make fixes to those and beside me probably no-one can even see those, but for oneself it is still something that preserves in memory... but thats maybe a good thing as each next build will probably be better again as one knows what to avoid and what methods to use instead that are safer.

                                                    Comment

                                                    • sdl2112
                                                      Senior Member
                                                      • Mar 2006
                                                      • 571

                                                      #27
                                                      I completely agree with ergo...otherwise very nice work. You are moving right along. I look forward seeing your build progress.

                                                      Comment

                                                      • Andy_F
                                                        Member
                                                        • Aug 2018
                                                        • 49

                                                        #28
                                                        Originally posted by ergo
                                                        It's smart to sleep on such problems for sure. Don't beat yourself too much. This is in a way a lucky mistake from the possible ones as it's under the footing and will not be visible on ready speaker. These small issues do happen even if a good care is taken and one thinks things through. I had a few small mishaps on Ardent build as well. Mostly inside the cabinet but some small also outside. I was able to make fixes to those and beside me probably no-one can even see those, but for oneself it is still something that preserves in memory... but thats maybe a good thing as each next build will probably be better again as one knows what to avoid and what methods to use instead that are safer.
                                                        Very true ergo

                                                        Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

                                                        Comment

                                                        • Andy_F
                                                          Member
                                                          • Aug 2018
                                                          • 49

                                                          #29
                                                          So here's the latest on the build. I was awaiting delivery of a top guided flush router bit to correct the mess I made of the port break-through so I made a start on the transmission tunnels.

                                                          As I am having curved sides, I didn't really have the option to build straight tunnels otherwise there would be no contact point for the sides to adhere to.

                                                          So once again using my template I drew and cut the tunnel lengths for the top and bottom sections of the tunnels:

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                                                          However the sides could be straight:

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                                                          Loose fit:

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                                                          This was repeated until I had two loosely fitting tunnels with approximate gap:

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                                                          Now bearing in mind that if I left the fully curved sides in place it would completely eliminate the total volume of air within the cabinet... not good! So I then proceeded to mark and cut out the required slots to allow for the air movement and calculated cabinet volume:

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                                                          Once happy with the alignment the first tunnel was glued:

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                                                          The tunnel was left for 24 hours to fully dry and then aligned onto the rear baffle to check everything lined up.

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                                                          I then began cutting out the rear baffle, when my trusty jigsaw of 5 years died on me... :cry:


                                                          Thankfully I've managed to borrow my dad's jigsaw and updates should continue over the next week.
                                                          Last edited by theSven; 07 April 2023, 07:35 Friday. Reason: Update image location

                                                          Comment

                                                          • Andy_F
                                                            Member
                                                            • Aug 2018
                                                            • 49

                                                            #30
                                                            Update:

                                                            Rear baffle transmission line cut out complete:

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                                                            Driver wire hole drilled and cable loosely fed through, I'll hot glue it once I'm happy.

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                                                            Foam tapered on the driver side at 45 degrees and set 2" from front of transmission line:

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                                                            Dry fit then glued:

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                                                            Obligatory dry clamp with first tunnel fully set. I can now actually see how these are gonna look :B

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                                                            Second transmission tunnel cut, foam and glue:

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                                                            Rough alignment of shelf braces and full brace (which hasn't yet been cut out).

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                                                            I decided I to ensure the front baffle was millimeter perfect, so rather than using my router, I invested in a Dremel circle cutter. :T

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                                                            Ribbon test fit

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                                                            Mid test fit:

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                                                            Now onto the woofers:

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                                                            Before breaking through I did another dry test fit:

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                                                            Jim, would I be ok to mount the tweeter crossover onto the upper shelf, the mids crossover onto the bottom shelf and the woofer crossover in the bottom of the cabinet next to the port? With it being a smaller design to the standard Statements II design I'm a bit concerned that the large magnets of the drivers may affect the XO components? They will be approximately 9 inches away.

                                                            Thanks,

                                                            Andy
                                                            Last edited by theSven; 07 April 2023, 13:23 Friday. Reason: Update image location

                                                            Comment

                                                            • Jim Holtz
                                                              Ultra Senior Member
                                                              • Mar 2005
                                                              • 3223

                                                              #31
                                                              Originally posted by Andy_F
                                                              Update:


                                                              Jim, would I be ok to mount the tweeter crossover onto the upper shelf, the mids crossover onto the bottom shelf and the woofer crossover in the bottom of the cabinet next to the port? With it being a smaller design to the standard Statements II design I'm a bit concerned that the large magnets of the drivers may affect the XO components? They will be approximately 9 inches away.

                                                              Thanks,

                                                              Andy
                                                              Hi Andy,

                                                              No worries about the driver magnets affecting crossover components. 9 inches is way more than enough clearance.

                                                              Yes, you can divide up the ribbon, mid and woofer crossovers then bring the wiring together at the binding posts. Observe the reverse polarity on the mid circuit and wire accordingly.

                                                              Everything looks great so far!

                                                              Jim

                                                              Comment

                                                              • Andy_F
                                                                Member
                                                                • Aug 2018
                                                                • 49

                                                                #32
                                                                Update

                                                                Velcro tape; glued and stapled onto the shelf braces to enable secure fixing (and to allow future removal of the crossover boards to replace parts etc). *I don't trust glue alone to hold permanently!*

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                                                                Plus some spare foam to act as a cushion under the boards - further reducing potential issues from cabinet vibrations.

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                                                                Shelves glued in place

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                                                                Front baffle fully cut:

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                                                                Flipped over and the rear side covered in copious amounts of glue, again applied using a roller to achieve a uniform finish. Clamped and left for 24 hours:

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                                                                The following day I began to router through to the front baffle rear slab when my router bit decided to fall apart...

                                                                It was late so decided just to do another dry run *I'm so impatient sometimes and just wanna glue it all together straight away!*

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                                                                Andy
                                                                Last edited by theSven; 07 April 2023, 13:18 Friday. Reason: Update image location

                                                                Comment

                                                                • Andy_F
                                                                  Member
                                                                  • Aug 2018
                                                                  • 49

                                                                  #33
                                                                  Breakthrough completed:

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                                                                  Driver alignment and fitment of T-nuts to secure bolts:

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                                                                  T-nuts heavily glued and hammered into the rear of the front baffle:

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                                                                  Groove cut into bottom plate to help sandwich the curved sides securely:

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                                                                  Second front baffle marked for cutting:

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                                                                  First baffle chamfered on the rear adjacent to the T-nuts:

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                                                                  So now I'm confused, the port comes in 3 sections; 1 flared part with large diameter (fitted to the underside of the base); 1 straight section; 1 flared port with a slightly smaller diameter:

                                                                  Fitment of the underside larger diameter port:

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                                                                  Loose fitment of the smaller flare:

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                                                                  Which if taking into account the section hidden within the base totals 4" length:

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                                                                  However if I insert the straight section it transforms the total length to approximately 9":

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                                                                  Why is there a straight section included in the kit? Any help much appreciated thanks.


                                                                  Andy
                                                                  Last edited by theSven; 07 April 2023, 13:16 Friday. Reason: Update image location

                                                                  Comment

                                                                  • Jim Holtz
                                                                    Ultra Senior Member
                                                                    • Mar 2005
                                                                    • 3223

                                                                    #34
                                                                    Hi Andy,

                                                                    The two flares and the straight length of tubing add up to the correct port length as determined by Curt. When using inner and outer flares they only partially add to the overall length of the port. The Anthology's use a 5" length of straight tubing. Either length will work just fine.

                                                                    HTH

                                                                    Jim

                                                                    Comment

                                                                    • Dilirium
                                                                      Junior Member
                                                                      • Dec 2017
                                                                      • 20

                                                                      #35
                                                                      Very nicely built!

                                                                      Comment

                                                                      • Supernova
                                                                        Senior Member
                                                                        • Mar 2017
                                                                        • 108

                                                                        #36
                                                                        Andy,

                                                                        I hope your T-nuts workout for you. When I built a pair of statements for a friend, I had to remove one of the drivers and one of the tnuts started spinning. It was a bare to extract and I ended up damaging a driver. Granted it's my fault for not clearing out the dust in the t-nut. I haven't had that problem with my sub that I built and have removed the driver several times, but that was made of baltic birch. Just a heads-up on being careful with those.

                                                                        Peter

                                                                        Comment

                                                                        • Andy_F
                                                                          Member
                                                                          • Aug 2018
                                                                          • 49

                                                                          #37
                                                                          Originally posted by Jim Holtz
                                                                          Hi Andy,

                                                                          The two flares and the straight length of tubing add up to the correct port length as determined by Curt. When using inner and outer flares they only partially add to the overall length of the port. The Anthology's use a 5" length of straight tubing. Either length will work just fine.

                                                                          HTH

                                                                          Jim
                                                                          Cheers for clarifying that Jim, if I include the straight piece the top flare will be directly behind the bottom woofer (rather than underneath), is below better vs reduced port length?

                                                                          Thanks,

                                                                          Andy

                                                                          Comment

                                                                          • Andy_F
                                                                            Member
                                                                            • Aug 2018
                                                                            • 49

                                                                            #38
                                                                            Originally posted by Dilirium
                                                                            Very nicely built!
                                                                            Cheers fella :T

                                                                            Comment

                                                                            • Andy_F
                                                                              Member
                                                                              • Aug 2018
                                                                              • 49

                                                                              #39
                                                                              Originally posted by Supernova
                                                                              Andy,

                                                                              I hope your T-nuts workout for you. When I built a pair of statements for a friend, I had to remove one of the drivers and one of the tnuts started spinning. It was a bare to extract and I ended up damaging a driver. Granted it's my fault for not clearing out the dust in the t-nut. I haven't had that problem with my sub that I built and have removed the driver several times, but that was made of baltic birch. Just a heads-up on being careful with those.

                                                                              Peter

                                                                              Hi Peter,

                                                                              I'm limited on options tbh, so I'm just gonna have to keep my fingers crossed!

                                                                              I am testing each T-nut fitment before I put the second side on - so hopefully this will flag any issues before it is too late!

                                                                              Thanks for the advice though and it has definitely prompted me to double check everything prior to final assembly! :T

                                                                              Andy

                                                                              Comment

                                                                              • Andy_F
                                                                                Member
                                                                                • Aug 2018
                                                                                • 49

                                                                                #40
                                                                                Oh Jim I also have another question!

                                                                                Now admittedly I am probably being OTT but with regards to driver wiring and hook-up wire to the binding post in the rear baffle;

                                                                                Firstly, should all hook-up wire to each driver from the XOs be the same length - so that they present exactly the same load resistance to the drivers?

                                                                                Secondly, should the hook-up wire between XOs to binding post also be the same length (for the same reason regarding equal resistance)?


                                                                                I've started to put one side on now and am gonna sort the electronics next but want to make sure it's perfect before putting the second side on. I can't upload photos because Photo-bucket has gone down...

                                                                                Cheers again for your help with this.

                                                                                Andy
                                                                                Last edited by theSven; 23 July 2023, 20:39 Sunday. Reason: Update text

                                                                                Comment

                                                                                • technodanvan
                                                                                  Senior Member
                                                                                  • Nov 2009
                                                                                  • 998

                                                                                  #41
                                                                                  I was just about to comment about your pictures disappearing when I read your post! I don't think I've commented on your project yet, but I have been following along and you really have made some impressive progress in a short amount of time. Keep it up!

                                                                                  I'm sure Jim will weigh in shortly, but I wouldn't worry much about wire length affecting resistance. The differences (across copper anyway) should be minuscule. I mean, obviously don't coil up a few extra meters in there, but even then I bet you'd be hard pressed to measure a significant difference!
                                                                                  - Danny

                                                                                  Comment

                                                                                  • Jim Holtz
                                                                                    Ultra Senior Member
                                                                                    • Mar 2005
                                                                                    • 3223

                                                                                    #42
                                                                                    Originally posted by Andy_F
                                                                                    Cheers for clarifying that Jim, if I include the straight piece the top flare will be directly behind the bottom woofer (rather than underneath), is below better vs reduced port length?

                                                                                    Thanks,

                                                                                    Andy
                                                                                    Andy,

                                                                                    Can you clarify exactly where the top of the port flare would be in relation to the driver?

                                                                                    Jim

                                                                                    Comment

                                                                                    • Jim Holtz
                                                                                      Ultra Senior Member
                                                                                      • Mar 2005
                                                                                      • 3223

                                                                                      #43
                                                                                      Originally posted by Andy_F
                                                                                      Oh Jim I also have another question!

                                                                                      Now admittedly I am probably being OTT but with regards to driver wiring and hook-up wire to the binding post in the rear baffle;

                                                                                      Firstly, should all hook-up wire to each driver from the XOs be the same length - so that they present exactly the same load resistance to the drivers?

                                                                                      Secondly, should the hook-up wire between XOs to binding post also be the same length (for the same reason regarding equal resistance)?


                                                                                      I've started to put one side on now and am gonna sort the electronics next but want to make sure it's perfect before putting the second side on. I can't upload photos because Photo-bucket has gone down...

                                                                                      Cheers again for your help with this.

                                                                                      Andy
                                                                                      Andy,

                                                                                      Just as Technodanvan responded, the wiring lengths are short enough, there's nothing to worry about. It'll be fine.

                                                                                      Jim
                                                                                      Last edited by theSven; 23 July 2023, 20:39 Sunday. Reason: Update text

                                                                                      Comment

                                                                                      • Andy_F
                                                                                        Member
                                                                                        • Aug 2018
                                                                                        • 49

                                                                                        #44
                                                                                        Ok so I can upload to PB again!

                                                                                        Updates:

                                                                                        I smoothed the internal full brace baffle to remove any hard edges:

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                                                                                        And then assembled the cabinet using copious amounts of glue. The reason for saturating the panels (yes I know the risks with MDF) was two-fold; firstly more glue allows a longer set-time so I didn't need to rush the clamping process; secondly, with it being MDF I know how much a cut edge of MDF can suck up all the glue internally - leaving a weaker joint.

                                                                                        So glue was applied and then clamped solid for 24 hours:

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                                                                                        Clamps removed and everything held together in one lovely solid mass. :B

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                                                                                        The next part of the build was to fix the location points of the XO boards. Velcro (hook and loop) tape was cut evenly and stapled to the cabinet shelves and base, and the corresponding piece stapled to the XO board.

                                                                                        In addition to the Velcro, some spare foam was stapled to provide a "cushion" for the board to sit on. The whole design reduces vibration of the XO components but allows future removal of the boards if required.

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                                                                                        The next stage was fitting the first piece of plywood to form the curved side. The ply was cut, dry fitted and then all contact points covered in glue and clamped. For extra measure staples were used along the contact points too.

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                                                                                        Whilst the glue was setting, I took a piece of flat copper bar and started to cut it to size; this is going to form the external bridge between the two sets of binding posts to allow bi-wiring of the speakers.

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                                                                                        The next day the cabinet clamps were removed and I had one curved side :B

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                                                                                        The rear baffle was marked, drilled and binding posts inserted (loosely):

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                                                                                        One piece of copper notched at the top and then marked for the second notch (to form the binding post bridge):

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                                                                                        Hook-up wire soldered at the binding post end and connected with spade terminals at the driver end:

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                                                                                        The XOs cables were fitted, the cabinet taken to my living room and the drivers were fitted:

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                                                                                        Now obviously one side of the cabinet is missing and the position of the cabinet is terrible but this wasn't a listening set-up, it was purely to run a XO/driver test.

                                                                                        I hadn't finished the copper bridge pieces so I used a spare flex of wire:

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                                                                                        This shot was taken at my listening position and the M-T-M level is perfect. The ribbon is at ear height. (I'd just like to clarify that I don't have a wonky house but I seem to have taken the shot at an angle!)

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                                                                                        Andy
                                                                                        Last edited by theSven; 07 April 2023, 08:13 Friday. Reason: Update image location

                                                                                        Comment

                                                                                        • Andy_F
                                                                                          Member
                                                                                          • Aug 2018
                                                                                          • 49

                                                                                          #45
                                                                                          Originally posted by Jim Holtz
                                                                                          Andy,

                                                                                          Can you clarify exactly where the top of the port flare would be in relation to the driver?

                                                                                          Jim

                                                                                          Full length:

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                                                                                          Removed top flare:

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                                                                                          Removed centre straight section:

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                                                                                          Thanks,

                                                                                          Andy
                                                                                          Last edited by theSven; 07 April 2023, 08:18 Friday. Reason: Update image location

                                                                                          Comment

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