Another Anthologys Build

[TH-1]

Hi all, first time/long time.

I've ordered my parts and cut my cabinets and I'm really excited to gradually plug away at this build. I'm definitely not a pro, but I've built a dozen or so designs, so not a newbie either. This is probably the most challenging design I've tackled so far, so excited to keep learning.

I have a couple of question already - Jim's directions call for rounding over the inside baffles where the PVC pipes for the mids meet the baffle. I guess this is supposed to diminish "tunnel effect". How exactly does this work? Easy enough to do, just trying to learn. What would be the consequence of not rounding over the cutout? A measurable effect? I've built a few other small monitor designs where a chamfer was suggested inside for 5" woofers, is this similar?

Also, how flexible is the design to variances in the internal dimension of the PVC pipe? I've found 3 sources and all are a bit different ID, from 5-15/16" to 6-1/4". Significant price difference between my options but I want to get this right.

Thanks. I hope to post pictures soon.

[Jim Holtz]

Hi all, first time/long time.

I've ordered my parts and cut my cabinets and I'm really excited to gradually plug away at this build. I'm definitely not a pro, but I've built a dozen or so designs, so not a newbie either. This is probably the most challenging design I've tackled so far, so excited to keep learning.

I have a couple of question already - Jim's directions call for rounding over the inside baffles where the PVC pipes for the mids meet the baffle. I guess this is supposed to diminish "tunnel effect". How exactly does this work? Easy enough to do, just trying to learn. What would be the consequence of not rounding over the cutout? A measurable effect? I've built a few other small monitor designs where a chamfer was suggested inside for 5" woofers, is this similar?

Also, how flexible is the design to variances in the internal dimension of the PVC pipe? I've found 3 sources and all are a bit different ID, from 5-15/16" to 6-1/4". Significant price difference between my options but I want to get this right.

Thanks. I hope to post pictures soon.

Welcome to HT Guide and of course I applaud your decision to build the Anthology's. I hope you enjoy them as much as I enjoy mine. To your questions;

Simply use the 3/4" roundover bit that you use on the vertical front baffle of the cabinet and make a quick pass around the inside front baffle where it meets the PVC pipe. That makes a smooth transition from the driver to the mid tunnel. A 45 degree bit could also be used if you choose not to follow the cabinet plan and do a round over on the outside front baffle.

I'd suggest using PVC pipe as close as possible to the speced 6" ID however, the minor differences you've indicated won't matter at all. Using 8" ID instead of 6" ID would be a problem but that could even be corrected with extra foam.

We love to see pictures!

Good luck with the build!

Jim

[TH-1]

Thanks Jim,

I'm really intrigued by the design. I'll definitely do the roundover as the plans indicate. I'm just curious what the sonic consequence of not doing the roundover might be.

Still waiting for the drivers to arrive so I can get to routing and cabinet assembly. Made short work of 2 sheets of MDF pretty quick though.

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks Jim,

I'm really intrigued by the design. I'll definitely do the roundover as the plans indicate. I'm just curious what the sonic consequence of not doing the roundover might be.

Still waiting for the drivers to arrive so I can get to routing and cabinet assembly. Made short work of 2 sheets of MDF pretty quick though.

Without actual measurements to back me up, I would say the lack of an external round over would have less of an audible impact than the inside baffle round over not being done. The sound waves need to be allowed a smooth rearward transition without 'tunneling" the sound waves. The round over or bevel is a simple way to open it up. The SB15's have a fairly large magnet so the extra space from the round over/bevel is important, IMHO.

HTH

Jim

[TH-1]

Another Anthologys Build

Ahh ok. I built one of Zaph's designs several years ago and at first didn't chamfer the inside woofer cutout. The bass really suffered. Had to cut the baffle off. Learned from that mistake.
BTW, I actually helped a friend build Statement Monitors maybe 6 years ago. Those were pretty amazing. Hoping I can replicate the magic.

I'll apologize in advance for what will likely be shoddy camera skills throughout.

[Jim Holtz]

You have a very good start on the cabinet. If you liked the Statements Monitors, I think you'll love the Anthology's. No disrespect to the Statements Monitors, I have a pair for my surrounds. But, the Anthology's dynamics and mid range are pretty sweet. The Seas 22TFF is an over achiever too with great off axis response.

Keep up the good work!

Jim

[flamethrower1]

Good luck with your build, you are going to love them.
I have a pair of Statement Monitors for my rears, makes for a very nice sounding system

Greg

[TH-1]

Good luck with your build, you are going to love them.
I have a pair of Statement Monitors for my rears, makes for a very nice sounding system

Greg

Thanks Greg,

I followed your thread, very nice work.

Got my PVC today, man that's a big pipe. Might need to borrow my neighbor's saw to slice it.

[TH-1]

A bit more progress today. This is about as much as I'm comfortable doing until the drivers and parts arrive this week.

I've built entire home theater setups that didn't have as much routering as these. Going to need more masks.

[flamethrower1]

You have a lot more dust to create yet but, in the end,it will be rewarding

[TH-1]

You have a lot more dust to create yet but, in the end,it will be rewarding

Ha. I was tempted to start the baffles. I've been burned before though.

What's the smartest way to cut the driver holes with a 1.5" baffle? Glue the two baffle pieces together and make separate passes, cut the outer baffle first and use a flush trim bit, or some other technique?

[flamethrower1]

I cut the outer baffle and lay that on my inner baffle, draw my cutouts and cut them close with a jigsaw.
Then I glue them up making sure I keep the glue cleaned up in side the holes then use a flush trim bit.
Its just how I do it and it seems to work well.

[BobEllis]

I glue first, make a pass about a half inch deep with the circle jig (AFTER ROUTING THE FLANGE RECESS), cut through with a jigsaw then clean up with a flush trim bit as Flamethrower does.

[TH-1]

Never thought to use the jig saw. I made 3 or 4 passes with my bit on my 15” subs’ 1.5” baffles, but those are the only ones I’ve had to do. Probably harder on the router bit than I needed to be. Thanks guys.

[TH-1]

Another Anthologys Build

Well my parts arrived from Meniscus today. By the way they were pretty great to deal with and the packaging was top notch.

Only had an out or so after mowing the lawn but I managed to router the 4 woofer holes. Damn, these are even prettier in person.

Also, bought new dust masks and forgot to wear one in my excitement until the 3rd hole. The Balvenie tastes a little aldehyde-ee tonight.

Started dry assembling cabinets, Saturday I’ll try to finish routering driver cutouts and assembling stuff.

First build since my kids were born, forgot how much fun it can be.

[TH-1]

Made a bit more progress but had one of those days. My trusty ol’ Porter Cable plunge router finally died. I’ve had it since ‘98 or so, and got it second hand. It’s helped me with every speaker or MDF project I’ve ever built.

I borrowed a neighbor’s Black and Decker and the Collet broke while he was testing my Jasper Jig out. 2 hour shopping run solved that. Lost precious time, unfortunately. But, got the baffles routered and the cabinets are partially glued now.



I cheated and got Meniscus to build the crossovers. They do cleaner work in that area than I do, probably squeezed these in a much smaller footprint than I would have.

Also, don’t recommend placing this next to a box of nails on a workbench in your driveway if your neighborhood has as many police families as mine does.

[flamethrower1]

I too had them build the cross overs, they do a very good job for the price they are asking.
Nice progress, I was listening to mine last night, I dont think I will be replacing them with anything else anytime soon

[TH-1]

Managed to get the cabinets partially assembled and the PVC in. Made a mess with epoxy. Not my expertise by any stretch. I’ve built other 2-way and MTM style towers before, but these cabinets are something. I have 8 quick grip style clamps. If you’re tackling these 2 at a time, you’ll wish you had more.

Next time I’m ordering pneumatic casters. These suckers are heavy!







By the way, Flamethrower1, your build thread saved my life today - I never thought about drilling holes in the PVC then scanned your thread during a water break!

I’ll start cutting up the foam and tackle the ports and crossovers if I have any free time during the week.

Ran into a dilemma - we’re relocating in the near future if things go as planned and my wife has vetoed my go-to oak veneer plans until we get the decor figured out. She’s right, veneering twice doesn’t appeal to me.

Thinking of trying paint for the first time, or maybe some of that vinyl film wrap I see everywhere as a stop-gap. I’m told the natural MDF look is not an option. I’ve seen others here paint their cabinets with nice results. Anything I should avoid if I’m veneering down the road? I’ve had bad experiences peeling some of the standard black ash vinyl stuff off in the past.

[TH-1]

Can anyone see anything inadvisable with this layout? Port fits no problem.

I started to stick the filter for the tweeter, then thought twice.

[Jim Holtz]

Will the crossover boards fit through the port hole or can you ge them through the brace for access through the lower woofer cutout? Sometimes you need to get to the crossover after building the speaker.

I place my crossover boards on the lower brace behind the lower woofer.

Jim

[TH-1]

Will the crossover boards fit through the port hole or can you ge them through the brace for access through the lower woofer cutout? Sometimes you need to get to the crossover after building the speaker.

I place my crossover board on the lower brace behind the lower woofer.

Jim

Yep, lots of room to remove if needed. With the woofers out, I have enough room to solder, but i can’t guarantee it’d be pretty


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jim Holtz]

Yep, lots of room to remove if needed. With the woofers out, I have enough room to solder, but i can’t guarantee it’d be pretty


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As long as the inner port flare fits and you can get the crossover boards in/out if needed, it should be fine.

Jim

[TH-1]

Thanks Jim,

I’d feel pretty silly going to Home Depot to buy a hole saw and a quart of Bondo

[Jim Holtz]

LOL! Worse things have happened but why go through it if you don't have to. :W

Jim

[TH-1]

Was just thinking, I may need a new amp to maximize these things. Currently have a few Adcom and Rotel power amps lying about, think they’re rated 80 and 100, and a multichannel Emotiva in my HT. Also a few integrateds, but they’re relatively low power. Haven’t decided what room yet. Thinking an XPA-2 or 3 might be in order (especially if I decide I need a Finalist Centre channel). Anyone have experience matching Anthilogy or similar builds to the Emotiva offerings?

Does Emotiva have a refurb or re-sale site?

[Jim Holtz]

I've become an Emotiva fan over the years and have my original LPA-1 powering the Anthology's and I'm using a XPA-5 with my Bordeaux's.

There are many fine amps to choose from but most are expensive to very expensive. If you're looking for the best for the least, Emotiva is at the top of my list. Great build quality and sound at affordable prices.

I'd suggest a minimum of 100 WPC@8 ohms which should put you around 150 WPC @4 ohms. However, more is better. I like lots of head room.

Jim

[TH-1]

LPA-1, that’s what I have now (couldn’t remember the model). I think I may talk myself into an XPA before the summer is out, but I’ll test things out first.

[Jim Holtz]

LPA-1, that’s what I have now (couldn’t remember the model). I think I may talk myself into an XPA before the summer is out, but I’ll test things out first.

The LPA-1 will handle it just fine. When I 1st bought the LPA-1 many years ago, I spoke with Lonnie at Emotiva who designed it and the XPA series amps. He told me that they were designed to "pool" the available power. The 125 WPC rating is for 5 channels driven. If its used in 2 channel mode, the power output is significantly higher since it uses a 1.2KV transformer same as the XPA-2 and XPA-5. The LPA-1 is highly under rated, based on Lonnie's feedback.

That said, I felt the XPA-5 sounded a bit "crisper" than the LPA-1 but the differences were very, very small.

HTH

Jim

[TH-1]

Another Anthologys Build

Started sticking some foam and prepping the exteriors. Think I've settled on paint for now, mostly because I've never painted a speaker. Eventually I think a nice burl veneer is the way to go if the new home decor abides. My wife is picking out some sort of piano key white that will satisfy the WAF indefinitely.



I need to buy a new 3/4" roundover bit, during testing the blades chipped and broke away. It cuts, but poorly, and I don't need that hassle at this stage. Need to round over the baffle edges still.

[flamethrower1]

TH-1, I run all Emo gear as well, currently both the XPA-2 for my Anthologys and XPA-3 for my rears and center.
Makes for a great sounding system

[TH-1]

Thanks, flamethrower1.
I like some of the other Emo gear I have as well.

I just noticed the Tapatalk app I use alternates between this account and my "Ken C" account I use for other forums. This is going to take some effort on my part to remain consistent. Hope I don't confuse anyone.

At least I can thumbs up my own posts.

Ken

[TH-1]

Got my new bit to do the roundover, sanded, and even got a layer of primer on.



I managed to sand one speaker before I wore out. This oil base stuff the Home Depot guy recommended dries quick, didn’t fuzzy up the MDF end grain and sanded smooth as chalk with 220 grit. Maybe that’s normal for MDF? I’ve got ideas for a number of future MDF projects now.

I tip my hat to the cabinet designer. I picked up my old Paradigm Studio 40’s, the weight difference and “knock test” is night and day.

This is the first speaker project I’ve done where I didn’t use dado cuts to build the cabinet. Pros and cons. No need, but sometimes they help if you’re alone and low on clamps. Not sure how I’ll do the Finalist Center channel cabinet.

[Jim Holtz]

Lookin' good! :T

Thanks for the kudos on the cabinets. I like stiff enclosures.

Jim

[TH-1]

First 2 layers of paint applied with a fine, mini foam roller. It goes on so thin that I was pretty worried about the imperfections showing after the first coat. Sanded, and applied a second coat and it looked much, much better. In hindsight I wish I had a roller that applied thicker coats for the first layer or two. I'm guessing I'll need 4 or 5 to get where I want it.

Quick question for anyone who has built these from Meniscus kits. Meniscus includes 4 ft of gasket tape. Some of the drivers have taped backs, some don't, and there's the ports to deal with. Where does the tape go, or should I source more?

[TH-1]

Spent the last two days painting and sanding and painting and sanding. I’ve learned a lot so far on this project, including the fact I still suck at painting and am glad this is is a stop-gap finish.

Think I’ve got them presentable enough that they will pass WAF code and be allowed to come in the house finally. With any luck, wiring hookup and driver installation happens in the next 24 hrs.

[TH-1]

Some progress on the wiring. I’d have been shot if I went with Statements. These are not inconspicuous in their awesomeness.

[TH-1]

Testing my connections now.

I’m guessing that deep, tight bass means I didn’t hook anything up out of phase. Got a few more things to finish yet, solder some joints, permanently attach t he ports, etc. Doesn’t sound like I broke anything. [emoji3]

[JoeAngelicchio]

They look great!!!!

[Steve Manning]

Looking very nice .... by the way, what was the stuff you got from Home Depot to seal the mdf, looks like it did a nice job?

[TH-1]

Another Anthologys Build

Thanks Steve and Joe.

I used Kilz odourless oil based primer, comes in a green and white can. I made the mistake of trying to apply with fine foam rollers first. It held on well enough, until sanding. I then switched techniques. I used a thicker nap roller for the primer, sanded and patched, then applied a second thinner layer. Sanded. Then 2-3 costs of thin paint with sanding in between.

It’s very good at hiding the end grains at joints and covering minor imperfections.

My roller-game isn’t great though and I’d miss the odd streak or whatever and need to sand and go back. I’m going to apply one or two more fine coats to get as smooth as I can, some parts are still a little textured, but from 2-3 feet back you can’t tell.

I was worried all day Saturday, but Sunday morning I knew they were in acceptable shape.

I think I could have veneered and tung oiled in a similar time, maybe less. Saved a bit of cash on veneer I guess. We may still go down that road

I think I may invest in a sprayer kit for my compressor though if I do this again.

Here’s the best closeup I can get, excuse the mess.



They really do disappear when the music plays.

[TH-1]

Well everything seems in order.

I've got about 13 hrs of break-in on them, if that does anything.

Thoughts: I've built many of the common designs you'll find at the usual places, almost every Wayne J speaker, the old Triune, TriTrix, Aviatrix, and Statement Monitors and several of Zaph's, etc. I've even managed to design a few of my own from scratch as well, though my XO skills still lead to a lot of trial and error, and I prefer to experiment in the $200-$300 range This was probably the most complicated project I've built, but I wouldn't say it was very difficult if you take your time, the write-up and other builds here are great resources. The open back mids add some steps. Noobs who know their way around a table-saw and router could tackle easy enough.

These sound fantastic - I can't describe how much I enjoy them. In November 2010 I was going to build the Statements, had a week off work and everything, then our basement flooded. MDF cabinets don't hold up so well in water. I lost the ZDT3.5s and some other gear. Meant to rebuild them, but I ended up selling the drivers off, and settled with the insurance company and just went without a separate stereo system. The stuff you see in my pics is a hodge-podge HT of 10-15 year old projects that didn't get swamped (U-Pees, etc). My daughters were born in April 2011 just a few months later, life got busy, and I haven't built a speaker since. I'm really happy I picked the Anthologys to get back in the game.

I've given them a good workout, Steven Wilson - Hand. Cannot. Erase., Dream Theater - The Astonishing, Ayreon - The Source, all challenge my smaller TM's dynamics and the distortion wears on you after a bit. The Anthologies are never fatiguing at loud volumes. Kenny Burrell, Lee Morgan - might as well be in my room. The soundstage is as deep as anything I've heard. I may keep tweaking placement, but don't feel I'm missing anything at all.

Female vocals were excellent - everything from Norah Jones to Floor Jansen in Nightwish. This project gets a big thumbs up from me. The last commercial speakers I owned were Paradigm Studio 40's, and my other speakers already surpassed those, so not sure what else I could compare an Anthology to, doesn't matter. If you're on the fence, build them.

I think one of the most remarkable things is actually their performance at lower volumes, 60 dB - 70 dB. An awful lot of music information makes it to my ears now late at night when everyone is sleeping. And it's amazing how many new vocals and notes I can pick up in choirs and more complicated passages.

I'd like to thank a few people:
Jim Holtz and Curt C for continuing to produce quality designs for the DIY community
Flamethrower1 - dude, your build thread was very helpful to me - especially the tip about resizing the front baffle, and I had some of the same questions you did.
JaxLax - his Micro Statement thread was actually an inspiration for me to try painting a cabinet for once, and I liked the white.

Next up in 2 paychecks will be a Finalist Center Channel, and then probably some surrounds after that.

Ken

[Jim Holtz]

Awesome! That's exactly the feedback Curt and I always hope for. The Anthology's have what it takes for both music and home theater and put a smile on the face of the listeners. I'm really pleased you're enjoying them!

Jim

[707kevin]

I so much do want to build these!

I haven't build anything since a 5 channel set of Zaph Za5 MTMs, center, MT rears
I have been listening to a pair of DCM timeframe TF-2000's that are 60" tall - so I'm not sure I can justify another large set of speakers. Need more amp for the DCMs first anyways.

Anyways, great job!

[TH-1]

707kevin,

Thanks for the kind words. If you need encouragement on the Anthology speakers, I’d be happy to provide it.

These aren’t 60” tall but they’ll still draw attention. I nickname them the Monoliths. But that’s part of their awesomeness.

Did a bit of experimenting last night. From
My seated position at 12 feet from each speaker I was easily able to play average 100dB volumes (C-weighted) with the odd spike peaking over 110dB. No audible distortion, or woofer slap yet. Easy, effortless listening. Some of that volume is room gain I’m sure, and I’m confident I could push them harder but that’s louder than I care for in my room. No smoking components, buzzes or rattles. My builds haven’t always been that fortunate

[flamethrower1]

Nice job TH-1, they are very nice looking and built in a world record time I think.
They are a very nice sounding speaker in many regards for the money and time invested.
I see you have built the Statement Monitors, I dont know if you still have them or not but they make for some good rears with the Antholgys.
Oh and the Statement II center is playing well with these as well