Fdas Statement Monitor build thread [and maybe Statement Center]

[Fdas]

Well, I finally have some pictures, but sadly its of a mistake.







The router was dull, the bit moved off the bearing, and not only did we have to scrap that front baffle [it was already glued down to the box, cut it off with a band saw.] But now we have to remake the template for the flush mount hole.

Fail.

Anyways, it looks really awesome, much better in really life.

I didn't really want shiny speakers at first, but I think this is going to turn out great.

The slots cut out on the left/right side of the piece of aluminium would have been filled with a piece of maple, which is then going to be flush trimmed to the box, and then given the 1/2 round over.

The box will be a shiny black.

So far the biggest out of wack tolerance that we have is the height. Its supposed to be 22" and its actually just under 22 and 1/32". We are long about 1/64th a foot.

[john trials]

I'm interested in a few things. How thick is that aluminum? How are you bonding it to the MDF? Is the aluminum your template, or is it going to be part of the finished speaker cabinet?

Are you making the driver cutouts without a circle jig? I'm just wondering, because another option is to make the rebate cuts first with a circle jig, then the through hole cuts. There is no worry about router bit bearings with a circle jig.

It's also easier to make all of the cuts to the baffle before it's glued to the cabinet. That way you can also make the cuts on the back of the baffle to allow the drivers to 'breathe' better, too.

[Fdas]

We made the inside diameter cuts, the back bevel, the pilot holes to mount the driver, and the counterbore for the tee nuts all before we glued the front baffle to the box.

The aluminium is pretty thin. My guess is that the aluminium + formica backing is about 1/32". Used aerosol contact cement. We sprayed it on both surfaces. it gets tack dry and then you just push them together.

We made the driver cut outs with a template made using an expansion bit on a drill press.

[impala454]

Sorry for your mistake, I know how it feels I threw away a couple of boxes during my build.

The aluminum looks pretty awesome! Your router had no problem cutting it? I wonder if Jim or Curt have anything to say about it affecting the sound (my guess would be no, but they are the wizards here).

[Fdas]

Sorry for your mistake, I know how it feels I threw away a couple of boxes during my build.

The aluminum looks pretty awesome! Your router had no problem cutting it? I wonder if Jim or Curt have anything to say about it affecting the sound (my guess would be no, but they are the wizards here).

The flush trim was incredibly easy. Carbide tip router bit. It's not that thick. But yeah, I don't think high-speed steel bit would be a great choice.

Really, the aluminium looks even better in person. The pictures just don't do it justice.

We already had a 3rd baffle built, it was going to be for a center channel, but since we didn't plan on actually building that 3rd speaker anytime soon, we will just be using that baffle to correct this mistake.

[john trials]

The flush trim was incredibly easy. Carbide tip router bit. It's not that thick. But yeah, I don't think high-speed steel bit would be a great choice

I use high speed steel end mills on aluminum in my job (machine shop). Aluminum is cut with a high cutter speed similar to wood, so HSS router bits would work great, if you need to use them.

[Fdas]

One more follow up question. The 3 'nets' don't need separate ground planes, right? All connections to ground can be one 'big' ground? I don't need to create separated ground planes?

[john trials]

The grounds in all 3 networks should be connected together and go to the black binding post.

[looneybomber]

The grounds in all 3 networks should be connected together and go to the black binding post.

Assuming you're not bi-amping them (2 sets of binding posts), then yes. Otherwise the woofer ground goes to it's own black binding post and the mid & tweet grounds go to their own black binding post.

[Fdas]

Here is a picture of my partially completed circuit boards.





I'm going to be moving the 2uF cap on the woofer crossover closer to the 68uF cap. It got mounted too close to the inductor.

[john trials]

Looks good, except for the pair of resistors that are held together with a cable tie. Separate them. It'll give them more open surface area to dissipate heat.

[richnen]

Have you completed the cabinets yet? I think the aluminum baffle is going to look great in glossy black cabinets!

[Fdas]

No, not yet. there is still some cab work to do.

Tomorrow I'm hoping to 'finish' the crossovers and get a plan laid out for the cabinet work.

Any recommendations on how to get the wiring to the mid driver? Where is the best place to drill into the mid tunnel? Does it need to be filled with caulk or something similar?

[Fdas]

Ok.

Got it all soldered up. Please have a look and let me know if it looks bad somewhere.

[richnen]

Pretty sure you want to have a good seal between the chambers. I drilled the holes close to the back of the tweeter then sealed with caulk after running the wire.

[BeerParty]

Any recommendations on how to get the wiring to the mid driver? Where is the best place to drill into the mid tunnel? Does it need to be filled with caulk or something similar?

I put a notch in the tunnel where it attaches to the front baffle, so I could keep the wire short but still remove the driver if I had to (you can see what I did in this post in my Statement Monitor build ).

Just make sure the hole is sealed afterwords, you don't want any air leaking from the hole.

[Fdas]

If I were to get a circle jig set from amazon.com, can anyone recommend one to me?

Tools are over my head.

[sawdust]

If I were to get a circle jig set from amazon.com, can anyone recommend one to me?

Tools are over my head.

I have this one as do many others who build speakers:

http://www.amazon.com/Jasper-200J-Circle-Cutting-Plunge/dp/B00009K77A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1294691603&sr=8-1

[Fdas]

The plunge router we are using is a Festool.

Is that compatible with this jig?

[BeerParty]

The plunge router we are using is a Festool.

Is that compatible with this jig?

If you follow the link and scroll down on the page, there is product description that indicates which brand/models the Jasper Jig is pre-drilled for.

[Fdas]

Small update. Got the front of one box done.

Sorry about the picture quality, 100k limit on pictures is pretty small, and unfortunately, i didn't bring my camera to the shop today, so these are cell phone pictures.

In any case, they are starting to look cool.

Can't wait to hear them.

[Fdas]

Some stupid questions [also necro thread!?!]

1) Best practice to affix the crossovers inside the box? Is some non-conducitve epoxy to basically glue it down to the box OK?

2) Should I glue the back of the box on first, and leave the baffle removeable until I'm ready to seal everything up, or should I glue the baffle down first and then once everything is in glue the back of the box on?

[BeerParty]

Some stupid questions [also necro thread!?!]

It is close enough to Halloween that I'll raise this thread from the dead to answer your questions. :wink:

1) Best practice to affix the crossovers inside the box? Is some non-conducitve epoxy to basically glue it down to the box OK?

Typically you want to attach it so that it is easy to get out in case there is a problem. If you glue it down and something goes wrong, you'll damage the enclosure getting it out. I'm a fan of double stick tape or hook-and-loop (aka Velcro). Zip ties are also a popular option.

2) Should I glue the back of the box on first, and leave the baffle removeable until I'm ready to seal everything up, or should I glue the baffle down first and then once everything is in glue the back of the box on?

Depends on how you build the box. I built mine such that the back of the box was glued in when the box was under construction, so I didn't have an option. One thing to keep in mind - the drivers get screwed in, so if you leave enough wire between the crossovers and the drivers you can put the whole box together and work through the driver holes. I specifically sized my crossover boards so they would fit in the box through the bottom driver hole.

[TEK]

Does this mean that after your «small update» back in 2011 you did not finish your speakers, and now you are about to do so?
If so, that is just so cool and great to see that you are back into the game!

[Fdas]

Does this mean that after your «small update» back in 2011 you did not finish your speakers, and now you are about to do so?
If so, that is just so cool and great to see that you are back into the game!

Yes, that is correct

The 7 year long Statement Monitor project?!?

[Fdas]

I'm trying to figure out the 2" precision port. I gather that the side that is larger in circumference is the side that faces out side, and the smaller end goes inside the box?

How long should the port be from end to end? It seems like this is a tuneable port where you buy the port and cut the middle piece to the correct length for your desired frequency? (I found this. 8" end to end.)

Getting pretty close to the end on this one!

[Jim Holtz]

I'm trying to figure out the 2" precision port. I gather that the side that is larger in circumference is the side that faces out side, and the smaller end goes inside the box?

How long should the port be from end to end? It seems like this is a tuneable port where you buy the port and cut the middle piece to the correct length for your desired frequency? (I found this. 8" end to end.)

Getting pretty close to the end on this one!

I'm still traveling so I don't have anything more than a link that contains the vast majority including port info of what you need to build the Monitors; http://speakerdesignworks.com/Statements_Monitor.html

Jim