Fdas Statement Monitor build thread [and maybe Statement Center]

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  • Fdas
    Member
    • May 2010
    • 98

    Fdas Statement Monitor build thread [and maybe Statement Center]

    Hello all!

    Thanks for being such a great resource

    I have a couple questions as I get started.

    Today will begin working on the cabinets, and I'm sitting down to order everything for a left and right speaker.

    Couple questions I have.

    1) What do I buy for sealing the speakers in the front baffle? I know you don't just screw it in, and I think its not just like calking either. What product do you DIY's buy to create a nice tight seal?

    2) what kind of Sonic Barrier Acoustic Foam should I get? Or should I even get that?

    3) Which binding posts are best? If they are all about the same, I was thinking these. What do you guys think?
  • ---k---
    Ultra Senior Member
    • Nov 2005
    • 5202

    #2
    1) I typically use plain old weather stripping from Lowes or Home Depot. I like the Marine Grade stuff at HD. It has stronger adhesive. Parts Express also sells some speaker gasket. I've used it, works just as well. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-542

    2) Jim Holtz uses egg crate foam from Foam by Mail. If you read the thread, I'm sure he has an exact thickness in there somewhere. The foam for inside the mid tunnel may be more critical than the others. If you don't want to have to experiment too much, I would use what Jim uses. For in the woofer, I've been using the 1" Sonic Barrier and think that it works well enough to recommend: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-525 But in there, you can again use egg create foam or fiberglass insulation. There is a lot of debate as to what is best.

    3) Opinions will vary. I just used the ones you linked to on my brother's speakers. I thought that they worked well enough. Easy to install - just cut a circle. Most people like to use indivdual binding posts like: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=091-1245 These, mainly, can look nicer that the cup. The insulated binding posts with the aluminum plate looks really nice. They all should sound about the same. If you want to get expensive, you can get these ALL copper Supra binding posts for $60: https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...oducts_id=1235 (CJD talked me into these). There are also numerous other brands of fancy binding posts, like WTB and Vampire. Who knows if they sound better... I probably would spend money of fancy foam and caps prior to these...
    - Ryan

    CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
    CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
    CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

    Comment

    • Fdas
      Member
      • May 2010
      • 98

      #3
      Thank you for your help. I got the 2" wedge foam from Foam by Mail, and the 1" Sonic Barrier from PE for the mid tunnel. The 2" wedge foam seems huge. It must be packed tight.

      I have everything on order, although lots of the crossover components are on backorder, so who knows how long it will take to come in.

      Maybe before they come I'll get one of my electrical engineer friends to turn the schematic into some artwork for me and I'll get these fabricated as PCB's.

      Pictures to follow!

      Comment

      • Fdas
        Member
        • May 2010
        • 98

        #4
        I have everything on order and except for 1 .47 cap at Erseaudio, everything is on its way, will be here end of the week.

        For sealing the joints on the inside of the speaker cabinet, what is the best material?

        Comment

        • impala454
          Ultra Senior Member
          • Oct 2007
          • 3814

          #5
          Here is my build thread for four statements monitors and a center... kinda old but may help out:
          DIY (Do it yourself): Cabinetry, speakers, subwoofers, crossovers, measurements. Jon and Thomas have probably designed and built as many speakers as any non-professionals. Who are we kidding? They are pros, they just don't do it for a living. This has got to be one of the most advanced places on the net to talk speaker building, period.
          Last edited by theSven; 15 April 2023, 06:02 Saturday. Reason: Update htguide url
          -Chuck

          Comment

          • Fdas
            Member
            • May 2010
            • 98

            #6
            Originally posted by impala454
            Here is my build thread for four statements monitors and a center... kinda old but may help out:
            https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30825
            I bookmarked that one. Great job. Although, why not do the roundover? Doesn't the roundover smooth out the tweeter response a lot?

            Also, @ anyone who can answer this question, why is the roundover only applied on the left/right sides of the baffle?
            Last edited by theSven; 15 April 2023, 06:03 Saturday. Reason: Update htguide url

            Comment

            • impala454
              Ultra Senior Member
              • Oct 2007
              • 3814

              #7
              I cannot speak to the point of the roundover affecting the tweeter response... but the roundover on the left/right side is usually done to make it easier to apply veneer. I'll do all that whenever I finally get around to building the final two and putting some type of finish on them all (haven't decided yet between veneer or paint).
              -Chuck

              Comment

              • Fdas
                Member
                • May 2010
                • 98

                #8
                Good afternoon guys.

                Stuff is arriving and today I received the drivers and few other miscilaneous things from PE [ordered by following the banner ad on this site ].

                My question is, did they send the correct Sonic Barrier 1" Acoustic Foam product?

                Here is what I got.

                Click image for larger version

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                Last edited by theSven; 15 April 2023, 05:57 Saturday. Reason: Update image location

                Comment

                • DeathMonk
                  Senior Member
                  • Jun 2008
                  • 232

                  #9
                  That's not the right stuff.

                  Comment

                  • ThomasW
                    Moderator Emeritus
                    • Aug 2000
                    • 10934

                    #10
                    Did you order P/N 260-525?

                    Looks like you ordered P/N 260-516 or at least that's what they sent you..

                    IB subwoofer FAQ page


                    "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

                    Comment

                    • Fdas
                      Member
                      • May 2010
                      • 98

                      #11
                      Thats just what they sent me. I did in fact order 260-525.

                      Thanks for the responses. Today I'm making some decisions about exterior finishes and what not, and soon will be cutting wood and glueing stuff together. I will do my best to take pictures.

                      Comment

                      • Fdas
                        Member
                        • May 2010
                        • 98

                        #12
                        Cross over components came. This cap is on backorder. I'm trying to find out what kind of lead time this part has.

                        Anyone can recommend a drop in replacement component?

                        PE already shipped the correct Acoustic Barrier stuff, so I should have that this week as well.

                        As for the finish I've decided to go with a Mahogany that has mostly straight grain, but has some interesting stuff throughout. We may also be doing a walnut trim on around the edges, so that when finished, there is a really nice two tone affect.

                        When I get the wood I'll put some pictures up.

                        Comment

                        • ---k---
                          Ultra Senior Member
                          • Nov 2005
                          • 5202

                          #13


                          If you call them, supposedly they will put one cap like this in the regular mail for like a $1.
                          - Ryan

                          CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
                          CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
                          CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

                          Comment

                          • BOBinGA
                            Senior Member
                            • Mar 2009
                            • 303

                            #14


                            These cost just a little more, but are higher voltage (not that that is something to worry about) and they are foil and film which some people say sound better when they are inline in a circuit. I got a bunch of them and use them for bypassing large value caps and they come in handy to make up values I don't have on the shelf.

                            -Bob
                            -Bob

                            The PEDS 2.1 mini system
                            My A7 Project - another small desktop speaker
                            The B3 Hybrid Dipole - thread incomplete and outdated

                            Comment

                            • Fdas
                              Member
                              • May 2010
                              • 98

                              #15
                              Erse has that .47 uF cap on a 2 month lead right now. I'll be purchasing a replacement part from PE.

                              Which of the following 3 Caps is the best one? The price for this stuff is not important. the most expensive one will cost me a bit over 3 bucks. So I don't care about the price.

                              http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...Number=027-458 - Highest voltage, 5% tolerance

                              http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...Number=027-406 - Lower voltage [250V], 5% tolerance [this doesn't seem like a good choice because the voltage is MUCH lower than the part ON the BOM, and the tolerance is higher]

                              http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=027-206 - Lower voltage, but 1% tolerance.

                              Seems like 1 or 3 is the best option. Just want to place this on order ASAP. Appreciate the feedback!

                              Comment

                              • ---k---
                                Ultra Senior Member
                                • Nov 2005
                                • 5202

                                #16
                                The film and foil caps.
                                - Ryan

                                CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
                                CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
                                CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

                                Comment

                                • Fdas
                                  Member
                                  • May 2010
                                  • 98

                                  #17
                                  Originally posted by ---k---
                                  The film and foil caps.
                                  Ok. I'll go with those.

                                  These metalized polypropylene caps were what the BOM specifically calls out.

                                  Comment

                                  • ---k---
                                    Ultra Senior Member
                                    • Nov 2005
                                    • 5202

                                    #18
                                    Yeah, those are good. Pretty similar to the first one I linked to. Since it is such a small value, that makes the film and foil more affordable.

                                    Lots of caps you can go with. Many would say they all sound the same. Others say they can hear a difference. I wouldn't sweet it too much. But, if you want to get fancy, replace the tweeter caps with a Jantzen Z-Superior.
                                    - Ryan

                                    CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
                                    CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
                                    CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

                                    Comment

                                    • BOBinGA
                                      Senior Member
                                      • Mar 2009
                                      • 303

                                      #19
                                      Even though the foil and film caps are spec'ed at 5% tolerance, they more like 2%. I just measured the last two .47uF that I have and they were .480 and .479 uF. This is more than close enough. I might be trying to justify my buying decisoin, but after trying several different caps, they do sound better. For the extra buck, these are one of the best bargins in the PE catalog.

                                      -Bob
                                      -Bob

                                      The PEDS 2.1 mini system
                                      My A7 Project - another small desktop speaker
                                      The B3 Hybrid Dipole - thread incomplete and outdated

                                      Comment

                                      • Fdas
                                        Member
                                        • May 2010
                                        • 98

                                        #20
                                        Just a couple more questions as I get ready for this weekend.

                                        1) can I mount the port flush? The drawing appears to have it not be flush mounted. If its not going to affect anything I think I'd rather the flush mount.

                                        2) The mid tunnel opening on the back of the speaker. The cut list shows putting a circle there, but I think I'd rather have the opening of the hole be exactly the same size as the actual tunnel. Will that be OK?

                                        Comment

                                        • ---k---
                                          Ultra Senior Member
                                          • Nov 2005
                                          • 5202

                                          #21
                                          1) Yes. No problem. If you're porting out the bottom, not worth the effort. If you're porting out the back, it would look better flush. No effect on the sound at the frequencies that will come out of the port, so do whatever you like.

                                          2) I think the circle you see is the driver cut out. I think the mid tunnel out the back should be square, same as the tunnel.
                                          - Ryan

                                          CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
                                          CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
                                          CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

                                          Comment

                                          • Jim Holtz
                                            Ultra Senior Member
                                            • Mar 2005
                                            • 3223

                                            #22
                                            Originally posted by Fdas
                                            Just a couple more questions as I get ready for this weekend.

                                            1) can I mount the port flush? The drawing appears to have it not be flush mounted. If its not going to affect anything I think I'd rather the flush mount.

                                            2) The mid tunnel opening on the back of the speaker. The cut list shows putting a circle there, but I think I'd rather have the opening of the hole be exactly the same size as the actual tunnel. Will that be OK?
                                            Yep, what Ryan said is correct. For #2, round or square for the back baffle opening works fine.

                                            Jim

                                            Comment

                                            • Lurkalot
                                              Member
                                              • Dec 2005
                                              • 60

                                              #23
                                              Sealing baffle board

                                              I bought some neoprene rubber gasket material from a local gasket manufacturer. It is 1/16" thick 60 durometer rubber. You can cut is with a sharp utility knife, and punch holes for fasteners through it with a leather or arch punch. It works great.

                                              Comment

                                              • Fdas
                                                Member
                                                • May 2010
                                                • 98

                                                #24
                                                We cut the mdf down to size, and have glued up the mid pass through as well as the front baffles.

                                                What length screw and what kind of tee nut should I be looking to get? I bought some #6 x 3/4" deep thread pan screw's from PE, but I don't think this is really what I want.

                                                I don't think the screw is long enough for the 1 1/4" thick front baffle.

                                                Comment

                                                • ---k---
                                                  Ultra Senior Member
                                                  • Nov 2005
                                                  • 5202

                                                  #25
                                                  You don't need to waste your time with t-nuts. Dry wall screw work. My 15" sub drivers are held in place with drywall screws. - meaning just about anything will work.

                                                  There are all sorts of fancy screw you can use. My Khans have the round head screws from PE. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=081-425 I'm sure you can get something similar elsewhere. Pan head and black - works for me. For my little D4's I used Kreg screws - gave them a cool look. Lots of options. I never use t-nuts any more if I can help it.
                                                  - Ryan

                                                  CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
                                                  CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
                                                  CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

                                                  Comment

                                                  • Fdas
                                                    Member
                                                    • May 2010
                                                    • 98

                                                    #26
                                                    Originally posted by ---k---
                                                    You don't need to waste your time with t-nuts. Dry wall screw work. My 15" sub drivers are held in place with drywall screws. - meaning just about anything will work.

                                                    There are all sorts of fancy screw you can use. My Khans have the round head screws from PE. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=081-425 I'm sure you can get something similar elsewhere. Pan head and black - works for me. For my little D4's I used Kreg screws - gave them a cool look. Lots of options. I never use t-nuts any more if I can help it.
                                                    So the #6 3/4" screws are long enough?

                                                    Comment

                                                    • Jim Holtz
                                                      Ultra Senior Member
                                                      • Mar 2005
                                                      • 3223

                                                      #27
                                                      Originally posted by Fdas
                                                      So the #6 3/4" screws are long enough?
                                                      I like #8 x 1" best.

                                                      Jim

                                                      Comment

                                                      • Coconutout
                                                        Senior Member
                                                        • Oct 2006
                                                        • 329

                                                        #28
                                                        Originally posted by BOBinGA
                                                        Even though the foil and film caps are spec'ed at 5% tolerance, they more like 2%. I just measured the last two .47uF that I have and they were .480 and .479 uF. This is more than close enough. I might be trying to justify my buying decisoin, but after trying several different caps, they do sound better. For the extra buck, these are one of the best bargins in the PE catalog.

                                                        -Bob
                                                        i've opted to go with the metalized caps in my crossovers. do you think i'll hear an improvement if i switch them to film and foil? the caps are 70uf in the subwoofer and the 50uf in the midwoofer section.

                                                        Comment

                                                        • BOBinGA
                                                          Senior Member
                                                          • Mar 2009
                                                          • 303

                                                          #29
                                                          Film and foil in 50 and 70 uF values are crazy expensive. Stick with the metalized caps in those values. If you want to experiment, you can parallel those large values with small .47 uF film and foil caps. The difference in value this creates (50 vs 50.47 uF) is so small that it will not affect any crossover points, notch filters, etc. But it is only going to make a difference in better sound on the large caps that are in series with a driver on your crossovers. The only place I really heard a difference was in the tweeter circuit and possibly the midrange, so bypassing the large caps with film and foil caps might not make a difference elsewhere, but it might be worth a try.

                                                          -Bob
                                                          -Bob

                                                          The PEDS 2.1 mini system
                                                          My A7 Project - another small desktop speaker
                                                          The B3 Hybrid Dipole - thread incomplete and outdated

                                                          Comment

                                                          • Coconutout
                                                            Senior Member
                                                            • Oct 2006
                                                            • 329

                                                            #30
                                                            is the 50uf section on the midwoofer considered a low pass circuit? i'm reading that a higher quality cap doesn't make a significant difference in this location and that you should just stick with the cost-effective solution. however, i do have an opportunity to snatch up clarity SA 10uf caps(they are 800v) for ultra cheap to parallel with 40uf 1% daytons for the 50uf section and will report back the findings here. build on, gentlemen.

                                                            Comment

                                                            • Fdas
                                                              Member
                                                              • May 2010
                                                              • 98

                                                              #31
                                                              Picked up the 4' x 8' piece of aluminium we are going to use for the front baffle.

                                                              Looks like we are going to do glossy black everywhere except for the front baffle which will be in this thin sheet of aluminium.

                                                              Its going to be bitchin'

                                                              Comment

                                                              • BOBinGA
                                                                Senior Member
                                                                • Mar 2009
                                                                • 303

                                                                #32
                                                                If you are talking about C2011, it's a high pass filter and can potentially benefit by using a high quality bypass cap. It's directly in series with the driver. Your idea to use a 40 and 10 in parallel is a good one if you can get them for a good price.

                                                                If you are talking about C1021 in the woofer circuit, it will probably not make any difference, so save your money and just use a standard metalized poly cap.

                                                                -Bob
                                                                -Bob

                                                                The PEDS 2.1 mini system
                                                                My A7 Project - another small desktop speaker
                                                                The B3 Hybrid Dipole - thread incomplete and outdated

                                                                Comment

                                                                • Coconutout
                                                                  Senior Member
                                                                  • Oct 2006
                                                                  • 329

                                                                  #33
                                                                  yes, c2011. i certainly expect it to make a difference since i've already fitted the tweet circuit of my monitors with jentzan superior z-caps which puts the highs a mile above my previous full sized statements. the reason why i didn't opt for full sized build this time was so that i could allocate the same budget on better caps and it really ended up better sounding than the full sized statements that i remember. i'll eventually be maddened enough by upgraditis to replace the woofer caps with oil/film since the crossovers are exterior mounted for the very purpose.

                                                                  Comment

                                                                  • Fdas
                                                                    Member
                                                                    • May 2010
                                                                    • 98

                                                                    #34
                                                                    The far wall BOM for the statement monitor says 50 uF cap, but the part is actually a 51uF cap. That must be OK, right?

                                                                    MPX25-03-51.0

                                                                    Comment

                                                                    • Jim Holtz
                                                                      Ultra Senior Member
                                                                      • Mar 2005
                                                                      • 3223

                                                                      #35
                                                                      Originally posted by Fdas
                                                                      The far wall BOM for the statement monitor says 50 uF cap, but the part is actually a 51uF cap. That must be OK, right?

                                                                      MPX25-03-51.0
                                                                      Yep...

                                                                      Comment

                                                                      • Fdas
                                                                        Member
                                                                        • May 2010
                                                                        • 98

                                                                        #36
                                                                        Well, I've completely failed at taking 'as you go' pictures.

                                                                        So far I've made the mid pass through, glued the braces to the pass through, glued the sides/top together with the mid pass through, glued the front baffle to that, the ID holes are already cut, and the back is already chamfered/beveled. We did a counter bore with tee nut's and will use #8 x 1" black oxide machine screws with pan head to mount the drivers.

                                                                        All that is left is finish work and crossover work.

                                                                        Perhaps we can get it done next weekend if I can finish the crossover before the weekend.

                                                                        I'm pretty overwhelmed by the cross over.

                                                                        First step is to drive fit everything together, take a picture, and then get a thumbs up from you guys.

                                                                        Please any tips for making a crossover from all you pro's would be very much appreciated. I really wish I had a PCB for this. It would be so much easier.

                                                                        Comment

                                                                        • Fdas
                                                                          Member
                                                                          • May 2010
                                                                          • 98

                                                                          #37
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                                                                          I'm sorry for the very very blurry pictures. If you can't make anything out of this, I'll just have to scan them in at work and upload them again.

                                                                          The 'larger' mid/tweeter layout is small enough to fit on the bottom of the box. The woofer layout would maybe glue up on the bottom of the mid pass through box?

                                                                          Any suggestions for better layout? Did I mess up any inductor placements etc?

                                                                          Thank you all for your help
                                                                          Last edited by theSven; 15 April 2023, 05:57 Saturday. Reason: Update image location

                                                                          Comment

                                                                          • john trials
                                                                            Senior Member
                                                                            • Mar 2009
                                                                            • 449

                                                                            #38
                                                                            I just uploaded the photos of my Monitor (switchable) and CC xovers to the Statement Crossover thread http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=36810. Mine aren't very pretty, but may help you with layout. There is no 'right' way to lay them out as long as:

                                                                            1) They are electrically correct (they follow the schematic)
                                                                            2) The resistors have room to breathe (they need to dissipate heat), and
                                                                            3) The inductors are positioned properly, so their magnetic fields don't interact too much http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils.htm.
                                                                            Statements: "They usually kill the desire to build anything else."

                                                                            Comment

                                                                            • ---k---
                                                                              Ultra Senior Member
                                                                              • Nov 2005
                                                                              • 5202

                                                                              #39
                                                                              If you haven't read it yet, this may help you:



                                                                              There are a lot of ways to do a crossover. Some are pretty, some are minimalist. I learned a lot by staring at JonMarsh's photos of his ModulaMTM crossovers and diagram. I just kept back tracing them until I understood what he did and why.
                                                                              - Ryan

                                                                              CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
                                                                              CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
                                                                              CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

                                                                              Comment

                                                                              • Fdas
                                                                                Member
                                                                                • May 2010
                                                                                • 98

                                                                                #40
                                                                                That nodal analysis is very helpful.

                                                                                Let me make sure I understand this though.

                                                                                node '0' or ground, everything that connects or 'shorts' to ground could theoretically all be soldered together in one joint? input all components and output could essentially all be one huge solder joint?

                                                                                Comment

                                                                                • Fdas
                                                                                  Member
                                                                                  • May 2010
                                                                                  • 98

                                                                                  #41
                                                                                  Sorry, another couple questions.

                                                                                  I'll be using single sided FR4 to build my crossover [I'm having a few square feet of scrap drilled as pegboar].

                                                                                  1)Can I use the copper side as ground plane and just solder all components that connect to node 0 to the ground plane?

                                                                                  2) Where do i get the terminals I see on everyone's crossover build?

                                                                                  3) What / how do I solder the wires to the speaker terminals?

                                                                                  4) Can I just solder the component leads together, or do I need to connect wire's between them?

                                                                                  Comment

                                                                                  • john trials
                                                                                    Senior Member
                                                                                    • Mar 2009
                                                                                    • 449

                                                                                    #42
                                                                                    1) You can. I'm a bit of a cautious dude, so I wouldn't want any part of my crossover board to be conductive. There's a potential for shorting wires to the ground plane accidentally. A ground plane isn't going to do anything (as far as noise reduction) in the audio frequancy range, anyway. You'll probably need a lot of heat to get a good solder joint on such a large surface of copper.

                                                                                    2) I think people have bought them at Radio Shack. I didn't use them. I just solder everything (less chance of a loose connection...then again, I'm a cautious guy!).

                                                                                    3) You can solder the wires directly to the speaker terminals, but large gauge wire needs a lot of heat, and it's not too hard to ruin a driver. I used quick connects in my Statements. They're safer, and make changing a driver easier if you ever need to do that in the future. https://www.madisound.com/store/index.php?cPath=404_168

                                                                                    4) Connecting component leads together is perfect. Less wires.

                                                                                    To answer your question in post #40: Everything going to node 0 can be soldered together in one large solder joint (assuming you can get all those components that close to each other).
                                                                                    Statements: "They usually kill the desire to build anything else."

                                                                                    Comment

                                                                                    • Fdas
                                                                                      Member
                                                                                      • May 2010
                                                                                      • 98

                                                                                      #43
                                                                                      Originally posted by john trials
                                                                                      1) You can. I'm a bit of a cautious dude, so I wouldn't want any part of my crossover board to be conductive. There's a potential for shorting wires to the ground plane accidentally. A ground plane isn't going to do anything (as far as noise reduction) in the audio frequancy range, anyway. You'll probably need a lot of heat to get a good solder joint on such a large surface of copper.

                                                                                      2) I think people have bought them at Radio Shack. I didn't use them. I just solder everything (less chance of a loose connection...then again, I'm a cautious guy!).

                                                                                      3) You can solder the wires directly to the speaker terminals, but large gauge wire needs a lot of heat, and it's not too hard to ruin a driver. I used quick connects in my Statements. They're safer, and make changing a driver easier if you ever need to do that in the future. https://www.madisound.com/store/index.php?cPath=404_168

                                                                                      4) Connecting component leads together is perfect. Less wires.

                                                                                      To answer your question in post #40: Everything going to node 0 can be soldered together in one large solder joint (assuming you can get all those components that close to each other).
                                                                                      Thank you for your detailed responses!

                                                                                      Actually, the copper side of a single sided board is going to be very easy to keep from anything else shorting to ground. And the copper will all be soldercoated [to prevent oxidation]. I think its going to make it easier and will essentially turn my board into a double sided PCB. I'll do all the positive connections on the top side, and anything that connect to ground will just go through a hole and solder to the bottom. The physical layout will be more flexible that way, since 'ground' is everywhere.

                                                                                      Which size of those quickconnects do you use for the speakers?

                                                                                      What speaker wire did you use inside the box?

                                                                                      Comment

                                                                                      • john trials
                                                                                        Senior Member
                                                                                        • Mar 2009
                                                                                        • 449

                                                                                        #44
                                                                                        Originally posted by Fdas
                                                                                        Thank you for your detailed responses!

                                                                                        Actually, the copper side of a single sided board is going to be very easy to keep from anything else shorting to ground. And the copper will all be soldercoated [to prevent oxidation]. I think its going to make it easier and will essentially turn my board into a double sided PCB. I'll do all the positive connections on the top side, and anything that connect to ground will just go through a hole and solder to the bottom. The physical layout will be more flexible that way, since 'ground' is everywhere.

                                                                                        Which size of those quickconnects do you use for the speakers?

                                                                                        What speaker wire did you use inside the box?
                                                                                        The quick connects are different sizes (unfortunately). The woofer connections are 1/4" (both + and - terminals). The mids are 3/16" (for the +) and 1/8" (for the -). The Fountek tweeters come with their own connectors, so you don't need any for them. Buy some spares. I messed up a couple of mine. I usually crimp them to the wire with pliers, then also solder them, so both the mechanical and electrical connections are really good.

                                                                                        I use 14ga wire inside my speakers. I was fortunate enough to get a 100 foot spool of speaker wire for 33 cents at a tag sale early last year. It'll last me a while!

                                                                                        If I wasn't such a cheapskate, I'd have designed a PCB for the crossovers. I do it all the time at work. The pegboard I use works...I'm just glad no one can see it once the speaker is sealed up.
                                                                                        Statements: "They usually kill the desire to build anything else."

                                                                                        Comment

                                                                                        • Fdas
                                                                                          Member
                                                                                          • May 2010
                                                                                          • 98

                                                                                          #45
                                                                                          I got my single sided peg board PCB. The copper side is completely covered in solder.

                                                                                          My current plan [so please tell me if this isn't going to work], is to connect the negative binding post, to the ground plane on the pcb. The top side will be my positive connections, and when a part is supposed to short to ground, i will just push the lead through the 1/8" hole and solder it to the ground plane.

                                                                                          The speaker out for the positive from the connection on the top of the board, and I'll just connect the negative connections to the ground plane.

                                                                                          This will function correctly, right?

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