My Mini-Statement and Center Build

[knguyen429]

Well, after several months of reading and waiting, my parts finally arrived today overseas. I decided on Mini-Statements and Statement Center Channel, against a suggestion that the Mini's might be a little large for my room size. I've always believed bigger is better, hope I'm not wrong. I can always extend the room a few more feet if needed. This being my first HT DIY build, its going to be an interesting experience.

I'm very excited, but a little dissappointed at the same time. Madisound ended up sending two square flanged and one round flanged Fountek tweeter. Looked up my orders and sure enough I ordered three round flanged tweeters. So my first question will be is there any difference other than cosmetics between the two flanges. Returning them is out of the question, family members who brought everything to me aren't going home for another three months.

I haven't sorted through the crossover parts yet, hopefully everthing I need is there. I should be building them first before I tackle the boxes.

I just wanted to say thanks to Jim, Curt, and Wayne for their time and knowledge on the Statement project. As well as everyone's various build threads, without them, I wouldn't know what I'm doing. Wish me luck!!!

Kenneth

[Jim Holtz]

Well, after several months of reading and waiting, my parts finally arrived today overseas. I decided on Mini-Statements and Statement Center Channel, against a suggestion that the Mini's might be a little large for my room size. I've always believed bigger is better, hope I'm not wrong. I can always extend the room a few more feet if needed. This being my first HT DIY build, its going to be an interesting experience.

I'm very excited, but a little dissappointed at the same time. Madisound ended up sending two square flanged and one round flanged Fountek tweeter. Looked up my orders and sure enough I ordered three round flanged tweeters. So my first question will be is there any difference other than cosmetics between the two flanges. Returning them is out of the question, family members who brought everything to me aren't going home for another three months.

I haven't sorted through the crossover parts yet, hopefully everthing I need is there. I should be building them first before I tackle the boxes.

I just wanted to say thanks to Jim, Curt, and Wayne for their time and knowledge on the Statement project. As well as everyone's various build threads, without them, I wouldn't know what I'm doing. Wish me luck!!!

Kenneth

Welcome to the HT Guide. I hope you'll be as happy with the Mini's as I am.

The good news is, there's no difference in the Fountek NeoCD 3.0's whether they have a round or square face plate. The bad news is, the square face plate version is more difficult to flush mount which is required.

Good luck with your build! The Statements series of speakers have been built in many countries around the world but I think you are the 1st build in Vietnam. We like pictures! :T

Jim

[john trials]

I looked up the dimensions of the rectangular flange. It's 115mm vertically. The circular flange diameter is 110mm. The rectangular flange may hit the 1337 mid. You may have to move the tweeter up a few mm, or cut the flange a bit. Do some careful math before you start.

I like the first picture you posted...lots of boxes of cool stuff...you're going to have a very nice system!

I have the full-sized Statements in a fairly small room. I was a little concerned things wouldn't work out well...but they did. You'll be very pleased with these speakers. Have fun!

[Sefferdog]

I hope you enjoy yours as much as I have mine. With a lot of help from Curt and Jim I built the Statements, Mini Statements, and the center channel and could not be happier.

It is fast approaching three years ago that I built mine, and they still sound better than anything I have listened to, before or after!!

[knguyen429]

Crossover parts sorted. Looks like I have everything I need for them.

Kenneth

[knguyen429]

My friend that was supposed to help me build the crossover is away on business, so I'm attempting this on my own. I've never read a schematic before, so if someone could look over this for me before I solder everything together, it would be very much appreciated. This is for the center channel.
Is it ok to just hot glue the components on the board and not ziptie it? It seems pretty strong, but I'm not sure how well it'll hold up when mounted vertically in the box.
TIA

Kenneth

[john trials]

It looks like your xovers are good (I couldn't find any errors) but they are a little hard to follow. I usually lay mine out similar to the schematic for clarity (and I have an electrical engineering degree!). If you trust the hot glue, go for it. I use zip ties for the all inductors and the large caps just to be sure.

[knguyen429]

Thanks for looking it through John, I can kind of read a schematic now. Looking at other people's pictures of their crossovers and the schematic, I kind of figured out how everything went together. Please excuse the mess on the following crossovers (they belong to the minis), I just kind of threw everything together according to a few pictures I found on here. If you could try to give it a once over, it would be very helpful. I will hot glue and ziptie, after I have everything laid out and finallized. Thanks again.

Kenneth





The crossover for the mid has a 68uf and 12uf cap, paralleled, to get the final 80uf.

[knguyen429]

I've been a little busy and have't gotten too much done. I decided to build the sub first. Dayton Audio RSS210HF ported. You can see my amateurish woodworking skills:T. There's little mistakes here and there, but nothing bondo can't cover up. I haven't decided how to finish it, so bare mdf is it at the moment. Also, no dampening material yet.

[knguyen429]

I got started on the center and ran into a little bit of a problem. I forgot everything over here is in metric, so for the port, I can only get 2-3/8"OD pvc. If I can use that, what would I have to change to make it work? Everything else looks to be on track.

Kenneth

[knguyen429]

Finally got the center finished up enough for prime. I was lucky enough to land some spray can primer, I was initially going to bring everything to an auto body shop for the primer. I couldn't find any sealer so I had to seal all edges with a layer of bondo. I'd never painted mdf before, my only experience with mdf prior to this endeavor was car subs. They only required to be straight enough to carpet. The exposed edges of mdf really soak up primer or paint, the bondo really helped. I'll know in the morning how the primer looks, but so far so good.

The port issue was resolved thanks to Jim and Curt. 65mm pvc would of been ideal, but is not available. It was either 55mm or 85mm. Curt suggested that I go with 55mm (inside diameter) pvc at 5" long with a 3/4" roundover on exit. Thanks guys for the prompt reply to pms and emails, I really appreciate it.

I'm putting in 8-10hr days to finish these up before my niece's wedding in June. Everything looks to be on track.

Kenneth

[john trials]

Looking good, Kenneth.

One method that I've used (and many others, too) to seal the MDF is 1:1 mixture of wood glue:water. Since finding sealers may be hard where you are now, you should have the ingredients for this one. It goes on easily (and with no fumes), hardens nicely, and sands really well. I used 3-4 coats on the cut ends of MDF, and 2 coats elsewhere (this was under veneer...you may want more coats under paint).

[knguyen429]

Thanks for the suggestion John. I read about that and tried it while building the subwoofer. I guess I didn't have enough coats on because it didn't seal it that well. I'll try it again. How long between coats should I give it to dry?

[knguyen429]

A question for you receiver gurus, and this might in the wrong forum, but hopefully someone can chime in. I'm using an Onkyo TX-NR807, capable of bi-amping the fronts. I can see a benefit using seperate amps to get more power, but would my receiver split the power normally sent to the fronts to bi-amp or would it double the output power?

[john trials]

Thanks for the suggestion John. I read about that and tried it while building the subwoofer. I guess I didn't have enough coats on because it didn't seal it that well. I'll try it again. How long between coats should I give it to dry?

I can't remember exactly how long I let the glue/water mixture dry, but it was at least 24 hours for each coat. I'm sure it will dry faster than that, but I don't rush my builds...otherwise I'd be done too soon and in need of a new project. I'm a super slow builder.

[Jim Holtz]

A question for you receiver gurus, and this might in the wrong forum, but hopefully someone can chime in. I'm using an Onkyo TX-NR807, capable of bi-amping the fronts. I can see a benefit using seperate amps to get more power, but would my receiver split the power normally sent to the fronts to bi-amp or would it double the output power?

Hi Kenneth,

A quick response before I head out for the day. Receivers are over rated power wise. HERE is a link to HT Magazines lab tests. I'd recommend using it in two channel mode and suggest you consider getting a good separate amp when funds permit, using the Onkyo as a preamp/processor IF it has preouts.

HTH

Jim

[knguyen429]

Hi Kenneth,

A quick response before I head out for the day. Receivers are over rated power wise. HERE is a link to HT Magazines lab tests. I'd recommend using it in two channel mode and suggest you consider getting a good separate amp when funds permit, using the Onkyo as a preamp/processor IF it has preouts.

HTH

Jim

Thanks Jim,

I've gone through this discussion in my head many times. The problem isn't power output, but rather power input at my location. Where my house is right now, we're having a huge problem with stable power even with a power stabilizer. I don't really want to invest in an amp until I get back to Houston. If I was back at home in Houston, I'd already have an amp sitting in the entertainment center. Utilizing what I have at my disposal right now, I'm just wondering if I'd get any benefit biamping from the receiver.

Kenneth

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks Jim,

I've gone through this discussion in my head many times. The problem isn't power output, but rather power input at my location. Where my house is right now, we're having a huge problem with stable power even with a power stabilizer. I don't really want to invest in an amp until I get back to Houston. If I was back at home in Houston, I'd already have an amp sitting in the entertainment center. Utilizing what I have at my disposal right now, I'm just wondering if I'd get any benefit biamping from the receiver.

Kenneth

Hi Kenneth,

I'm not that big of fan of bi-amping but if you want to, I'd suggest you install dual binding posts with a jumper and just use the Onkyo as a 2 channel amp. When you get home you'll have the flexibility of bi-amping with a separate amp.

Jim

[knguyen429]

Thanks Jim,

Looks like I'll be sticking with the original plans. I don't feel like waiting to special order the binding posts. It would take 6-8 weeks for them to arrive and I should be done with everything before then.

I got the center close enough to finished as I'm going to get it. There's still a few spots I could of perfected, but I'm not the perfectionist type. It's going to sound alot better than it looks :B. Last thing to do tomorrow is polish the front a little bit more. Vinyl application was alot easier with help from a second set of hands. I'll take some better pics when I finish the minis.

[FroDaddy]

That looks cool :T

[knguyen429]

Thanks Fro.

I know I'm supposed to line the cabinets with some sort of dampening material, but I don't remember reading if the woofer compartments need to be stuffed or not. If so, how much do you guys recommend to start out with?

Kenneth

[john trials]

Line the walls with 2" thick OPEN cell foam (you can breathe through it...like seat cushion foam from a fabric store) or 2" unfaced fiberglass insulation (don't try breathing through it :-)) or similar.

Look through the woofer holes, and line any surface that you can see (that the woofer will 'see'). Keep the lining 2" back from the baffle. Allow air to freely circulate around the mid tunnel (don't block the tunnel braces) and don't block the port.

No stuffing.

BTW, I'm interested to see how the rectangular tweeters on your minis...any progress on those?

[knguyen429]

Thanks John,

I know about the lining, just didn't remember ever seeing anything about stuffing, so I thought I'd ask.

I'm finishing up the sub tomorrow and putting together the baffles for the minis. I'll put up some pics as soon as they're ready.

Kenneth

[knguyen429]

Look through the woofer holes, and line any surface that you can see (that the woofer will 'see'). Keep the lining 2" back from the baffle. Allow air to freely circulate around the mid tunnel (don't block the tunnel braces) and don't block the port.

What about the tweeter section? Does that need to be lined also?
Not much progress the last couple of days. I got both towers ready for baffles to be cut. I should be doing that today or tomorrow.

[john trials]

What about the tweeter section? Does that need to be lined also?
Not much progress the last couple of days. I got both towers ready for baffles to be cut. I should be doing that today or tomorrow.

That is a very good question, and I'm not sure about an answer. I built the full-sized Statements. I didn't line the tweeter area (it's a fairly small area between 2 mid tunnels, and lining it would affect the airflow between the top and bottom areas). I'm currently (slowly) building the Monitors and CC. I wasn't planning on lining the tweeter area. I've read many threads about Statements, and Jim H. always says 'look through the woofer holes and line every surface that you see'. Hopefully someone more experienced can answer: What are the pros/cons of lining every surface in the cabinet.

Don't feel badly about slow progress. Over the weekend, all I got done was to route a hole for the port on my CC.

[Jim Holtz]

What about the tweeter section? Does that need to be lined also?
Not much progress the last couple of days. I got both towers ready for baffles to be cut. I should be doing that today or tomorrow.

Hi Kenneth,

No foam/fiberglass required behind the ribbon. It's only used where there is a back wave from the driver.

Jim

[knguyen429]

Hi Kenneth,

No foam/fiberglass required behind the ribbon. It's only used where there is a back wave from the driver.

Jim

Thanks Jim,

What about the bottomside of the passthrough? The part that's exposed to the woofer.

Kenneth

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks Jim,

What about the bottomside of the passthrough? The part that's exposed to the woofer.

Kenneth

Yes... That should be covered with foam/fiberglass. Anyplace you can see when looking into the speaker through the woofer cutout.

Jim

[knguyen429]

Thanks for the prompt replies Jim. I believe I have everything I need to finish up the speakers now.

I put together the center and hooked it up as a front channel. I've been playing with it for a few days. It sounded decent when I first turned it on, but after 2-3 days of using it, it sounds ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC. From music to movies, I can hear things I've never heard before. Everything is crystal clear and I now know what quality speakers sound like. I can't wait to finish the mini statements.



Finally, got around to working on the minis. I finished both cabs yesterday and finished one of the baffles today. Hopefully tomorrow will be as productive as today was. I do wish I was a better woodworker, too many "oops" moments means more time with bondo.

Kenneth

[LuncHwagon]

Looks like you did a bangup job on that square flange tweeter. Nice work. I would have ended up with "the square peg in a round hole"

[Fdas]

Line the walls with 2" thick OPEN cell foam (you can breathe through it...like seat cushion foam from a fabric store) or 2" unfaced fiberglass insulation (don't try breathing through it :-)) or similar.

Look through the woofer holes, and line any surface that you can see (that the woofer will 'see'). Keep the lining 2" back from the baffle. Allow air to freely circulate around the mid tunnel (don't block the tunnel braces) and don't block the port.

No stuffing.

BTW, I'm interested to see how the rectangular tweeters on your minis...any progress on those?

You arent supposed to put the foam lining in the mid tunnel?

[DeathMonk]

He's referring to where the sides of the speaker meet the mid tunnel braces/midtunnel.. There is little room there and he is just warning not to block the access. Mid tunnels should be lines normally with 1" sonic barrier or the like.

[knguyen429]

Looks like you did a bangup job on that square flange tweeter. Nice work. I would have ended up with "the square peg in a round hole"

There's a reason I took that picture from far away. One side of the flange is a little crooked. Circle holes are sooo much easier.