GARAGE DOOR FOR SALE: (Makin' room for a dedicated HT!)

[Burke Strickland]

Sonnie --

Gotta admire your gung ho, can do attitude towards this project! I think at about the third stitch I'd be thinking "how much would it cost to bring in a contractor to finish this job?" :>) You'll be able to say honestly at the end, that your HT was the result of your own "blood, sweat and tears" (well, at least the first two).

Good luck on safe completion of the rest of the work.

Burke

[Sonnie Parker]

Thanks Burke!

lol never thought of it that way but yes my own blood & sweat & sore muscles so far. The tears may come later.

Ah the stitches were nothing... it was the tetanus shot that got me by surprise when she stuck me. I wasn't expecting it for some reason. I was just a talking away and whallup!... the needle entered my arm.... OUCH! I exclaimed and told her she could have least gave me a warning. Then she said "well I thought me swabbing your arm with a cotton ball was warning enough."






SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[Eduardo]

Sonnie,

Glad that you weren't seriously hurt. I think some nurses are in the professeion to see people hurt. :evil:

Don't forget to post your pics. :T




http://home.nc.rr.com/ejimenez

[Sonnie Parker]

Thanks Eduardo.

We (Steve, a good friend of mine has been helping me out) got the walls pretty much framed out Saturday. It was slow going working with some really rough looking wood. We have no decent wood in these parts. Anyway, all we like as far as the wall framing is the one back angled corner and the part above the wall which will have to be trim fitted due to the varying distances between the top plate and ceiling. Not sure if it's ceiling sag or an unlevel garage floor but I know it wasn't the tape measure.

This is the west wall which we tore out:




This is the sealed up garage door with all the hardware removed:




This is the north wall which we sheetrocked the exterior prior to standing it up. It must have weighed some serious poundage... glad Steve was available:




After the north wall was installed:



I've got to take more pics of the remaining framing. I should be able to do this on Wednesday when we finish the angled corner and start the ceiling.






SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[brucek]

Looks good Sonnie - you left me wanting to see more pictures..

Maybe we'll have to ship you some of our Canadian wood down there to Alabama. If there's one thing we've got that's good - it's wood.........

Never seen anyone drywall before the framing is put up - but why not..

Interested to see how you're going to hang the ceiling joists..

brucek

[Sonnie Parker]

Thanks Ken.

Most of our wood down here is SYP (Southern Yellow Pine) and it's pitiful. I used Spruce 2 X 4's and they are usually much better than the SYP but this time they were lacking.

My building supply sent 14' 2 X 6's instead of 12' that I ordered so my dad took those for his porch he's building and went over to a fairly new building supply company (located in the middle of nowhere) to pick me up some 12' boards and they were much better.

lol... you know I really didn't have much choice if I was going to drywall that wall I had to attach it first.

We'll be framing the ceiling tomorrow so I'll have some more pics then. Most all of the gap you see above the walls will be gone, inside and out, once it's done. It was about he only way to do it since I didn't want the room top to touch the existing ceiling.






SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[Sonnie Parker]

We almost got the walls and ceiling finished today. We still lack the angled corner to match the other corner and the riser.

We used a lot of 1/2" rubber expansion joint throughout to help isolate the room. We also ran the ceiling joist in the front long ways as to allow for easier piping. The green arrow in the last pic below is pointing to a 2 X 4 anchored to the rafters. It goes through the existing ceiling and is has a thick layer of silicone around the cutout sheetrock area in the ceiling. There is also the expansion joint that is between the 2 X 4 and the rafters as well. Not sure if this stuff will help but it was rather cheap and seems to be very spring loaded.

None of the ceiling joist touch the existing ceiling. In the pics it is hard to see but there is a gap anywhere from 1/8" to 1/2" between the top of the joist and existing ceiling (depending on what part of the ceiling was unlevel). It worked out pretty good and is very solid.

Here's a few more pics:














SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[Andrew Pratt]

Looking good sonnie:T

[Chris D]

Looks good, Sonnie.

What I was mentioning elsewhere was the issue of baseplates and top-plates for staggered stud walls. Ideally, you want to use different baseplates for the inner and outer walls so that they do not touch and transmit sound energy, one to the other. The way to do this is to first build the outer wall with standard studs. (I think you said you're using 2x4's) This wall and its top-plate and bottom plate can be mated directly to the ceiling and floor of whatever you're installing into. Then you build the inner wall, with a DIFFERENT top and bottom plate, leaving a gap between the top-plate and the area ceiling. Then you put down an acoustical material on the theater floor (I used 5/8" Acoustik Mat) and stand the inner base plate on top of the matting. For the inner wall, you can use 2x2's for the base plate, and 2x4 wall studs. This means that when you put the inner wall into place, keeping a 1/8" or so gap between the two bottom plates so that they don't touch, the inner wall studs will stick 2" into the outer wall, but will not touch at all. Now you have completely isolated inner and outer walls that don't touch at all.

Don't worry about this at all, though. Real world, you're probably going to have at least some part of walls, ceilings, or floors touching each other, transmitting some sound energy. The whole point is to MINIMIZE the surface area where this happens. The less the better, and by using staggered studs you're isolating the wall areas, even though they will transmit a bit of energy through the top and baseplates to the outer wall.




CHRIS
Luke: "Hey, I'm not such a bad pilot myself, you know"

[Sonnie Parker]

Chris, I thought I could see your progress of your HT room online through HTBM but they don't seem to have online articles, etc. I was going to subscribe to maybe help myself out some too, but again it doesn't seem to be available online. Is buying a sub to this mag the only way to see your progress? Why have you not shared pics with us? Just curious and would like to see your work as well. I'm sure it will be very nice.

Anyway.... I used the staggered stud system that brucek suggested on the 1st page of the thread. This seems to be the common way to stagger stud from what research I've done. See... maybe your mag could share a new way of doing it if you just had it online for immediate access. As it stands it would be January before my sub started... I hope I'm done then. :P You know I'm pickin'.


Here's the diagram that Ken did for me:

(Edited-I initially posted the wrong pic):



From what I've researched it's the larger part sheetrock panels that seem to be what tranfers more sound. Hopefully the 1/2" expansion joint will help with vibrations some too. Either way I'll have to live with it now.

We'll build the riser tomorrow. Any recommendations on depth (front to back)? I'll be using 2 X 10's plus 3/4" flooring with 1/8" rubber on bottom and between the boards and flooring.... plus fully stuffed with insulation.






SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[efarstad]

Hey Sonnie...nice work buddy! My riser is 6' deep...but I guess depth all depends on how many rows of seating you are going to do, I'll assume ONE since one riser right? So then you just want enough room to get your chairs/seats/soffa/whatever and still have room for folks to meander about without feelin' cramped! Six feet worked for me...but measure your seats and that will help determine how deep ya need...have fun buddy...and remember, we can give you all the input we want...but when it comes down to it...do what YOU want to do...if I had a nickle for how many e-mails and comments I got about people tellin' me how I messed up this or that...I'd be RICH by now! It's your theater...so do what YOU want!

With all that said, we'll still tell you what to do! :LOL: J/K bro! Enjoy...it's good times buildin' stuff...I love it....

E





The Norwegian A/V Nut!
E-Cinema

[Chris D]

Sonnie, like I said, I really don't think the staggered stud construction is a big deal--you're right in that the main point is to not have the outer and inner drywall walls attached to the same inner frame to transmit sound energy to each other. The construction I talked about is pretty much the "existing wall construction" diagram you posted above, with a gap between the two base and ceiling plates. Either construction is fine. You are putting insulation in all walls, yes? (yes...)

As for my theater, I'm bummed that I don't really have a website to post pictures and descriptions on, nor the experience to be able to do so. I'd really like to do something along the lines of what Erik Farstad has done. I just found recently the HT Gallery where people can post pics here, so I've started to do that and will share what I do. Andrew Pratt's also helped me out with hosting some pics.

For Home Theater Builder Magazine, I don't think the website contains any electronic versions of any articles in the mag. As a writer, I'm not privy to all the decision making and website creation, but that's something I've seen common on some, but not all, publication websites to avoid copyright stuff and promote hardcopy sales. I'm not restricted at all from sharing the work I've done with others, so I'll do what I can!

For the riser, I assume you're talking about the rear seating riser and not the front stage. You're using some excellent construction materials, and I think that step height of 10+ inches will work well for you. Mine is going to be 7' long, personally, to accommodate the second row seats, fully reclined, with columns behind holding the rear surround speakers. Other people choose to go with less.




CHRIS
Luke: "Hey, I'm not such a bad pilot myself, you know"

[brucek]

We'll build the riser tomorrow. Any recommendations on depth (front to back)? I'll be using 2 X 10's plus 3/4" flooring with 1/8" rubber on bottom and between the boards and flooring.... plus fully stuffed with insulation.

Sonnie,

Very nice work. Looks real good.

I wanted to comment on the riser. You're specifying 10" floor joists, plus sheeting of 3/4", plus rubber shield on both sides, plus surface finish of carpet I suppose.

This would be way outside any building codes acceptable range for a riser. Most codes here (and I would think the UBC or at least your local code would be the same) dictates a riser range of between 4 7/8" and 7 7/8".

Outside this range and people are tripping on the way up and falling on the way down. Particularly important in a dark environment. 8O

Was the 10" joist a misprint?

brucek

[Trevor Schell]

Nice progression Sonnie!

Just curious though as to where you are going to put your goats? :P




Trevor
My HomeTheater S.E.
Sonically Enhanced
C5

[Sonnie Parker]

Ahhh... the goats Trev? It's just been a hard decision on the goats. I'm open for suggestions on this one too?

We are planning on some less expensive smaller seating for the rear seats. Probably the K-Mart black chairs with the ottomans... it's seems they take up less space than a recliner. We'd like to put one 3 seater cinema recliner (if we can find the extra $) at about 13' back (head position), so that leaves us with 6' to 6 1/2' for riser. However I wanted to see if anyone was having a problem with the 6' or so depth. I saw a few at 8' but felt if I end up going with a 1HD/Z1 that might end up putting our front row a little too close for SDE and scanlines.

Chris... yes we did somewhat isolate the existing wall staggered stud section with the expansion joint material. None the new studs touch any of the existing plates directly. And yes we are putting 2 layers of R-13 in the walls to fill the entire 6" depth of the wall. This will put 7 1/2" of insulation compressed slightly throughout the walls and ceiling.

I will be happy to host a few pics for you if you like. I can do a few but not a dedicated full website of course. I get my hosting for free so I don't want to take advantage of my buddy's at TroyCable.... but they don't mind a few pics on a page or two. Let me know if I can help. I'll be lookin' forward to seeing your pics either way. E has a great setup with his site to really help the HT builder get some great advice.

Ken... the riser will be around 11-12" tall yes when all done, but we will build some kind of dim lighted 6" steps on each side. Not sure yet how we'll do it but we don't want people tripping that's for sure. Probably some rope lights on each side right under the lip of the flooring edge and make them dimmable as to not reflect too much light into the room. This is where E stated if he could do his over he would have made his taller. If they can't see over the heads of the front row then it's kinda aggravating I would suspect. My further research indicated that 10" joist are the way to go but definitely with some sort of light steps.


I'll be posting some more pics later tonight or tomorrow afternoon.

Hey... I get my stitches out tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks fella's for all the help thus far. You all have been really great and I sincerely appreciate it.






SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[Lex]

Sonnie, you should have left that garage door in the mix, that way you could have had a drive in as well as a home theater! Pull the car up in front of the screen, whala, home drive in. I'd a thunk any hillbilly worth his salt would've though of that! I mean, drive ins are closing everywhere, it's tough to find a good one. :LOL:

Great job on the construction. I think it will be earthquake proof.

Lex
"There's not but one way to build something, and that's to over build it!"

[efarstad]

Sonnie: Just an FYI...yes I would have liked to go at least 8" but 6" does work for the riser, you just have to make sure you stagger the seating so the back row is looking "through" the people in front instead of "over" the tops of their heads...in short, where there's a will, there's always a way!

Plus my lumber was mostly free....at least what I built the riser out of so...you betcha, I just made it work!

Also, if you can't do a 8" or above riser, you can always mount the screen a bit higher to compensate as well, assuming there is room of course!

Can't wait to see the riser! 8)

E





The Norwegian A/V Nut!
E-Cinema

[Sonnie Parker]

Thanks Lex... congrats on the VOL's whoopin' up on those Cains. Good job by your boys!

Ah... the drive-ins... yes how I do remember those. Hey I could even tie up my billy goat to the speaker post next to the car. lol

And yes it is very solid. My dad says that's where he's comin' during a serious storm (tornadoes and hurricanes). He said he would hate to have to be the one to ever tear it down. :huh: I hope we can keep the earthquakes away.

Steve (one of my best friends since 1977) couldn't make it up today so I had it by me-self. No biggie. I got the ceiling joist finished, the angled corner finished, and the riser just about finished.

Free lumber E... 8O As NASCAR would say... you a lucky dog! Those 2 X 10 X 12's were 10$ each. Heck I may have a couple left over so they'll have to be returned for that 20$.

I'm at 9 3/8" for now. It will end up being 10 1/4" with the flooring then padding and carpet will put it at 11" with a step on each side at about 6" after carpet.

I'll try to get some pics up of the riser tomorrow afternoon. I'll also get some close ups of how I isolated the staggered studs in the existing wall.

I think after Church tomorrow we're gonna ride up to Montgomery and go to Home Depot, Lowes, Lazy-Boy, and K-Mart. A full afternoon I imagine.

Thanks again fella's!






SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[Chris D]

Sonnie, one thing occurred to me while I was working on my theater tonight: I might have missed it, but what are you planning on doing to the concrete garage floor? Some sort of acoustic matting would be optimal, but not direly required. Just might want to do that before you do risers.




CHRIS
Luke: "Hey, I'm not such a bad pilot myself, you know"

[Sonnie Parker]

Chris, I haven't really given it any thought. As far as the riser goes I have silicone/rubberoid/silicone/2 X 10/ so far. I plan on stuffing the cavities with 3-4 layers of R-13 that I already have (I may have some R-21 to use also-just gotta check in the storage house).... anyway they will get stuffed heavy. Then I got silicone/rubberoid/silicone/ on top of the 2 X 10 before the 3/4" flooring.

As far as the rest of the concrete floor and top/front of the riser, I had planned on a good padding and carpet. If acoustic matting is not too expensive then I might consider it. Have you decided what you are going to use yet and done a price check? Would you use this in lieu of or in addition to padding?

Here's some more pics showing close up of the staggered studding and rubber expansion joint isolation plus a pic of the riser almost finished:


Bottom section on existing wall:




Top section on existing wall:




Ceiling joist connection with top plate 1/4" from existing ceiling:




Riser:




It's really slow going only working on it for 2 days out of the week. I will have an extra day next week on Veterans Day. This will give me Tuesday and Wednesday to get wiring and piping done.






SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[efarstad]

NICE WORK Sonnie!!! 8) Wish Bama wasn't so far away...

You're making a sweet theater there my friend!

E





The Norwegian A/V Nut!
E-Cinema

[Eduardo]

slow going

What are you talking about? You've barely started 2 weeks ago and your walls, ceiling, floor and riser are built. That's Fast going in my book. But I can also understand your eagerness to complete your project.




http://home.nc.rr.com/ejimenez

[Sonnie Parker]

Time to run for the flip?


Thanks E!

:idea: Chris can fly you guys down here E!

Yeah I guess you make a good point Eduardo. I don't know... I guess I just think about how far I'd be if I'd been working on it for 10 full days out of those 2 weeks instead of 4 days. At the pace I'm going I don't really know if I can finish by Christmas but the Super Bowl might well be in sight (provided the FP I decide on can be had by that particular time).

Having to stop and think things through is a slow down too. But I do want to make sure it's right. No doubt it will be hard to change the framing once the sheetrock is up. I'm not an everyday contractor either.






SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[efarstad]

Sonnie, I'm game for Chris flyin' us down...but something tells me Uncle Sam wouldn't be too excited to see a C-17 leaving McChord for Bama...let alone Sonnie's back yard! 8O

E





The Norwegian A/V Nut!
E-Cinema

[Chris D]

I agree, man, you're moving FAST. You're only a few steps behind me, and I've been doing this off and on for maybe 9 MONTHS. Making me look like a slacker!

Whatever you do to the floor, I would do it before you do the risers. I still haven't built the risers. I haven't decided yet if I'm going to do them next, right after drywall, or wait for wall fabric and/or carpet first.

For flooring, what I did was start with a basic plywood subfloor over studs. I glued down a layer of Acoustik Mat subflooring, which is a rubberized matting for home theater use and sound isolation. Then I glued a second layer of plywood subflooring on top, which "floats" this floor above the house flooring to decouple it. I'd recommend you do something similar to decouple from the concrete garage floor. Hope this helps!




CHRIS
Luke: "Hey, I'm not such a bad pilot myself, you know"

[Chris D]

Oh, and as far as a deadline, I'm also shooting for the Super Bowl. Going to have a massive party that day, for a theater premier, the Super Bowl, my new baby girl who should be here by then, etc. You're all invited!

(do I need a flip pic?)




CHRIS
Luke: "Hey, I'm not such a bad pilot myself, you know"

[Chris D]

Oh, and one more thing--Sonnie, when you said that you were putting rubber above and below your riser, what do you mean? Rubber sheeting? Or rubber feet? What kind? (I'm considering rubber feet for my riser, but don't know for sure)




CHRIS
Luke: "Hey, I'm not such a bad pilot myself, you know"

[Eduardo]

When should I be expecting you to pick me up for the Super Bowl Part? I figure if you make a big loop going clockwise you can have us all picked up.




http://home.nc.rr.com/ejimenez

[Sonnie Parker]

How bout Chris pickin' everyone up and let's catch the first half at Cedar Creek Cinema then we can all fly back and watch the second half with Chris. :idea:

Chris, I don't think I'll have a problem with the garage slab as it is not on the same level as the house slab (neither slabs touch anywhere). This was something I did concern myself with initially but ended up settling with the fact that since they are separated by levels that it shouldn't end up being a problem.

As far as the rubber goes, my local hardware store had one roll (3' X 33') of Rubberoid left at their warehouse. The roll was mashed semi flat had a couple of nicks on the outside layer so they just gave it to me. I think it cost about $30-$40 maybe. Nothing was really wrong with it as it rolled out nicely for cutting. Anyway, it's 1/8" thick rubber roofing material. When cut I can see that it looks like plain ole solid rubber... which I guess is what it is. It's very solid and I have read where several HT rooms builders have used it for various areas in their construction. Some used it in strips on the walls between the sheetrock and studs.... some even used it all around the walls and ceiling although it's very heavy and some used it on the floor. I cut it in strips and used it as I was referencing earlier.

Here's a quote from a fella on it:

It is a water-proof rubber decking material, applied to the tops of buildings, instead of tar-paper, in order to acheive a water-proof layering of roofing material, which also cuts down on noise and acts as a protective cover. The side benefit, and certainly one not anticipated, was that it is so heavy, when applied the resultant 'quieting' affect, especially for low frequencies, was much lauded. I learned this technique when I was in a rather large music city and was having problems with rumble from traffic. I paid this old guy, as a consultant, who had done some 30 odd studios in that locale. He recommended that, because the soil there was both sand and rock, that it was the only material he found to acheive any sort of quieting affect. I have since used it in other studios, including my current bassement studio, where even though we used the rubber isolation discs and lifted the floor, before nailing down the wood floor, I applied it to the sub-flooring in order to eliminate some furnace rumble (which was quite loud!). It worked nicely, although I still hear a bit of extremely low frequency waves. Mind you, I am right next to this furnace in the basement, which serves a rather large building, and I can barely notice it now. (I still have a 'kill' switch, in case. LOL!) Peace.

SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[Sonnie Parker]

I need some advise from the electrical wizards.

We talked earlier about running separate circuits to the HT room. I ran a circuit for the receptacles and one for the lights. I only have 6 lights (sconces) on this circuit.

Would it be okay to feed the receptacle for the FP on the light ciruit?

My fear is a possible ground loop through the video connections to the equipment that is on the receptacles circuit. Should I be concerned?

Thanks!


The wiring and piping is pretty much finished. It's just about insulation time. Here's a few more pics:












SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[brucek]

Would it be okay to feed the receptacle for the FP on the light circuit?

No.

My fear is a possible ground loop through the video connections to the equipment that is on the receptacles circuit. Should I be concerned?

Yes.

When we talk about dedicated circuits, it means just that. No other lights, no other receptacles, no branch circuits allowed.

A dedicated circuit is a 'single' uninterrupted electrical cable run from the service panel breaker to only one dual or quad outlet located in close proximity to your equipment, so it or a power controller can reach. That's it. No branch circuits allowed. If you want light or other receptacles (required by code) in the room, they must be on their own circuit.

Same goes for the PJ. This will require a second dedicated circuit using the same service panel 'leg' as the equipment dedicated circuit.

Doing it this way will give you the best chance of no ground loops.

brucek

[Andrew Pratt]

Would it be okay to feed the receptacle for the FP on the light ciruit?

Absolutly not. Lights esp dimmed ones generate a lot of noise that you really need to avoid...esp in a projector.

[Sonnie Parker]

I was kinda figuring on this. Thanks for the wizardry!






SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[Sonnie Parker]

Time for an update.

This gets us through installing insulation and hanging the sheetrock and double door unit.

The mudding will begin today (by someone else! )


No pics are available for the insulation. It looks like insulation though.


R-13 is installed on the inside wall, then the 5/8" sheetrock. R-13 is again installed on the outside wall. This gives us R-26 in the walls, slightly compressed because of the staggered studding. It all worked out quite nicely. The one false corner was stuffed completely as well as the riser. In the ceilings I installed 2 layers of R-13. All seams, corners, and openings around cutouts on the first layer of sheetrock were sealed with silicone and then the second layer of rock installed.

We used 1 5/8" sheetrock screws on the first layer (only one layer on the outside wall) and 2 1/2" screws on the second layer of rock. We spaced the short screws about every 8-10" apart and the long screws every 4-5". The double door will be weathersealed and have two thresholds for a solid seal.










After the mudding is done I'll start painting and finishing. Then we'll get the carpet installed and start building the equipment cabinet. The really fun part is just around the corner.






SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[Eduardo]

Great job Sonnie. :T I'm very envious of the dedicated room. I don't think I can give up half my garage though.




http://home.nc.rr.com/ejimenez

[efarstad]

WOW! 8O Great job buddy...that sure is a A LOT of screws there...what every 2"!!! I'd say your walls aren't going to fall down! It's fun to have the walls up now huh? Really gives you a sense of space! Have fun...I remember those days...and will soon see them again when we begin finishing the rest of our basement after the first of the year.

Keep um' comin' buddy!

E





The Norwegian A/V Nut!
E-Cinema

[George Bellefontaine]

Sonnie, your Canadian Daddy is so proud of the work you've done on your HT. I can't wait to see the finished product. opcorn:




My Homepage!

[Sonnie Parker]

Thanks Eduardo, E, and Daddy-George!

Eduardo, I'm paying the price for losing my half of the garage. It's been really cold at night here and I have to deal with the frost and ice on the windows quite often. I'm later going to get a double awning type carpet installed to help a little. It was a tough decision but it is not anywhere in our future plans to move. This land was given to us and it would be difficult to ever sell or leave. There was really nowhere to add on to the house as far as extending out from the house. That option would have been very costly to do it right. It will look good and blend in smoothly once I get done.


E, yes, it's very nice to have the hard part over with... or should I say the most physical part. It wasn't that hard except for lifting the 5/8" X 4' X 12' over our head and holding until we could get a few screws in. That's when you need another arm or two.

Ray, the fellow mudding the rock, said he had never in his 30 years seen so many screws. He was literally amazed.


And George... I'm so glad I can make my Canadian Daddy proud.


Here's a couple more pics:

Here's why we angled the back corners on the inside of the room. We wanted to have plenty of room to get in and out of the house door. If we had made it a 90 degree angle it would have looked wierd with the corner being so close to the door.




.
Thanks to Ray Catrett for the mudding. He's the best there is and he's very good. Not much sanding when he gets done. Ray gets around on a 5 gallon bucket pretty fast. He can walk around on that bucket like I've never seen. Ray also sings in a band (they do not play bars or lounges, only private party's) and Ray has an excellent voice. I've invited Ray and his wife over to watch a movie sometime. I hope they'll come visit. This is also a good picture of the corridor separating the HT room and house.








SONNIE

Cedar Creek Cinema

DVD Collection

BFD Comprehensive Setup Guide

[Eduardo]

Sonnie, its looking great :T. I’m waiting anxiously to see the finished product.

I wouldn't want to leave your beautiful property either. We're hoping that in 5-7 years to sell and either buy or build. I'm hoping build but so far Allison is not on that plan :P.




http://home.nc.rr.com/ejimenez

[efarstad]

Nice work buddy...I'm so excited for you and Angibug! :T Won't be long now....once the rockin's done...things move pretty quickly!

E





The Norwegian A/V Nut!
E-Cinema

[Chris D]

Wow Sonnie, that's looking terrific. Isn't it great how much a drywalled room makes it feel like it's actually coming together?

I agree--I've never seen so many drywall screws in my life. Hope you don't have any magnets in the room. I just followed directions and put them 16" apart on walls and 12" apart on ceilings.




CHRIS
Luke: "Hey, I'm not such a bad pilot myself, you know"

[Sonnie Parker]

Thanks E, EJ, and Chris!

Here's an update:

Selecting the right colors for our HT room has not been an easy choice. I had a very bright portable light in the room while working and with the white primer the room reflected light quite well. It was easy to see in the room. As I was painting the ceiling and walls with the darker colors it got darker and darker in the room. It's as if my light was shrunk to a mini flashlight and there was practically no reflections except the screen wall. We decided to minimize any reflections other than from the screen we would go with darker colors. Afterall this is a HT room and typically theaters have dark walls and ceilings.

We chose Oriental Express for the ceiling, which is a midnight blue. The walls are Rich Burgundy. All paint is flat latex. The trim will be alternating colors, lower portion of the trim (the part against the wall) will be the ceiling color and the top portion will be the wall color. We're not sure how we'll like it all yet but if we don't we'll simply paint over it. I will never forget re-painting our kitchen in our first house several times with several different colors. The trim is not a traditional type of trim. I used 5.5" fir against the wall and ripped it 2.75" for the top portion. I figured I would try something different than standard crown moulding. Maybe we'll like it.

I primed the walls and trim with Kilz 2 latex primer. I dosed the walls and ceiling with 2 coats of the selected colors and then installed the trim.

The screen wall section in painted Misty Evening Gray which is a common color used for painting screens on walls. This wall has been pampered with extreme caution in painting and smooth sanding between coats. I will apply another coat for the final screen. I've painted this section a little larger than I intend for the image size. Once we decide on a permanant size I'll frame the screen with flat black painted brick moulding and finish painting the wall around the screen.

The below pics show the trim installed with caulking and putty work completed along with a few touch ups with rock mud. I'll smooth sand the putty and mud and then do touch up painting before applying the final coat of paint which will include 2 coats for the trim.






More pics of the finished trim and painting should be available over the weekend.






SONNIE

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[Andrew Pratt]

Looking great Sonnie:T

[Glen]

Wow! that looks great Sonnie. I think you've picked a great color scheme. If I could get my room looking 1/2 as good as yours is I'd be a happy man. (Of course my room is also only 1/2 the size of yours - so... I guess I'd be happy with it looking 1/4 as good as yours....... :? ... ).

Hope you took some time to enjoy christmas and new years, and didn't just paint and sand the whole time.

[efarstad]

SWEET....looking good buddy! As you know...I too love the burgandy walls!

What color carpet are you thinking about?

E





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