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I just got back from two weeks of surfing in Nicaragua with my friend Jeff Hakman. While there I admit that we were feeling pretty old and we both kept saying that this was the last time in our lives that we would be traveling and surfing waves of any consequence. One especially big day we boated out to a outer reef called Popoyo. We sat in the boat while 20 foot sets hit the reef. Jeff asked me if I thought we should reconsider. I told him that I wasn't hesitating because of the size but, I felt spooked about being in deep water. I started thinking about all the tiger shark attacks that took place while I lived in Kauai and felt uncomfortable.
That was just three days ago. What perfect timing to see the film "Soul Surfer". For those of you that don't know, it is a movie about Beth Hamilton. One of the greatest surfers presently on the women's pro tour. At 14 a shark took her arm off while surfing in Kauai. Not only has she not let fear keep her out of the water she has continued to surf at a level few women have achieved. If you don't surf, you may not be able to understand how seemingly impossible it is to paddle and catch waves with one arm. Plus, having to then push off your board to a standing position using a one arm push up. Think about playing basketball with one arm and making it to a woman's pro team. It is that hard.
The film is so well done that it feels like a documentary. Fantastic water photography by Don King. Very inspirational and moving movie. I recommend it highly. Be sure to stay for the credits to see the real Beth Hamilton riding big Hawaiian and Tahitian surf.
If you are interested you can go to the following website and see some pictures of Jeff and I on our trip. Jeff's pictures are obvious because everybody knew him and so they put a name to his pictures. I am "the man from North Carolina", a no name. By the way, Jeff is 65 and I am 64.
That was just three days ago. What perfect timing to see the film "Soul Surfer". For those of you that don't know, it is a movie about Beth Hamilton. One of the greatest surfers presently on the women's pro tour. At 14 a shark took her arm off while surfing in Kauai. Not only has she not let fear keep her out of the water she has continued to surf at a level few women have achieved. If you don't surf, you may not be able to understand how seemingly impossible it is to paddle and catch waves with one arm. Plus, having to then push off your board to a standing position using a one arm push up. Think about playing basketball with one arm and making it to a woman's pro team. It is that hard.
The film is so well done that it feels like a documentary. Fantastic water photography by Don King. Very inspirational and moving movie. I recommend it highly. Be sure to stay for the credits to see the real Beth Hamilton riding big Hawaiian and Tahitian surf.
If you are interested you can go to the following website and see some pictures of Jeff and I on our trip. Jeff's pictures are obvious because everybody knew him and so they put a name to his pictures. I am "the man from North Carolina", a no name. By the way, Jeff is 65 and I am 64.
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