I have a Monster HTS5100 on the way and I just wanted to prepare for the hookup before it gets here. Ive heard from many resources that amps should always be plugged straight into the wall but is the Monster 5100 able to handle the hight current of the 1095? I would really much rather plug it into a reliable unit to protect against surges but if it would hinder performance, I will plug it into the wall. What do you think? Thanks.
Plug 1095 straight into wall or in Monster?
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Don't think surges are a major issue with high power amps. I assume you will turn it off during lightning storms, but otherwise the usual power burps out there should not bother your amp and the benefit of direct connection to its own 20 amp outlet should be clearly audible.- Bottom
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Originally posted by NHTHas anyone had good results or usable improvements in using these power conditioners or should I have spent my money elsewhere and gotten a basic Monster HTS1000 that will protect from surges?
I own the Monster Power HTS 3500 MKII, my logic is simple, I protect my equipment from surges via this equipment with pretty good results (others have surges at the junction box, for household protection). There are also other companies that have surge protectors that other's use with pretty good results (i.e. Brickwall).
Sonic inhibitor? Perhaps, but I know my equipment is protected and insured.
Check out this URL:
Monster HTS 5100
Hope this helps,
Azeke- Bottom
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NHT,
I've done a quick check of the Monster 5100's specs and as it does not regenerate the power, just filter in it lots of ways, it has the same power rating as your wall socket (which is good)... So if all of the equipment was going to the same power line anyway (e.g. double wall socket on the same power line as other household items) - I'd recommend using it..
I have an Australian equivalent for our 240V power and it makes a big difference, especially on the amp and pre-amp so why not try it and see...
I suspect giving the 1095 its own dedicated 20 Amp line straight from the main power fuse box would be as good or better - but this is not an option for many people with rented apartments or houses. Even then I would use a surge protector in the line - just to protect against power surges, lightning strikes etc.
GeoffLast edited by Aussie Geoff; 17 October 2004, 06:38 Sunday.- Bottom
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I have alwayes been a bit concerned about adding dedicated outlets for a single component only. Reason - ground loop. Having gear attached to different lines with different ground connections is asking for problems... Well at least that is my experience..- Bottom
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I also believe that pluggin one unprotected component into a system where the rest is protected makes the whole system vulnerable to some some surges and other issues (this also applies if your surge protected system is connected to an unprotected antenna).
With this in mind, there are two schools of thought: full protection, or no protection at all...- Bottom
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Will the Monster Power Center restrict current to my power amplifiers?
No. On the models that contain High Current Filters, we have passed over 21,000 watts of power through to demonstrate its capabilities. For Monster Power Centers that do not have High Current Filters, the fillter becomes saturated for a few Milliseconds but does not impede current flow.
ht_addict- Bottom
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Geoff, just curoius about using a surge strip. I'm not as familier with some of the power specs regarding if a power strip is rated high enough to ensure that my 1095 is not being limited by the surge protector itself. Do you (or anyone else) know what I should be looking for in surge strip capacity? Many seem to be rated in joules, but I'm not sure how to translate that into what I need. Thanks,
Rob- Bottom
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I could be wrong but I thought Rotel themselves recommended plugging their power amps directly into the wall?
When finishing my room I had three outlets (2ea) run to their own breakers. Outlet 1, Top = Rotel RMB-1075
Outlet 1, Bottom = Power Strip (3 components)
Outlet 2, Top = TV
Outlet 2, Bottom = Power Strip (4 components)
Outlet 3, Top = Sub
OUtlet 3, Bottom = Empty.
Each outlet is wired to it's own 20AMP breaker at the box.
I'm considering a whole-house surge protector at the box and a Tripp Lite Line conditioner for the 8 components I have.
I'd like to "clean up" the power a little more so than protect it. My homeowners insurance policy covers all of gear in the event of a surge for full REPLACEMENT value (as opposed to a depreciated figure).
The Tripp-Lite unit I'm considering is:
Tripp-Lite Line Conditioner
Bill- Bottom
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I have everything plugged into the Monster 5100. The 5100 suppose to be non current limiting. I have some monster power amps connected to the 5100 without any sonic problems. These include a pair of NAD 208, a Parasound HCA 1000 and a Rotel RB 990. Naturally the rest of the usual suspects are also connected (TV, VCR, DVD, Tuner).- Bottom
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Originally posted by Bill BlankI could be wrong but I thought Rotel themselves recommended plugging their power amps directly into the wall?
When finishing my room I had three outlets (2ea) run to their own breakers. Outlet 1, Top = Rotel RMB-1075
Outlet 1, Bottom = Power Strip (3 components)
Outlet 2, Top = TV
Outlet 2, Bottom = Power Strip (4 components)
Outlet 3, Top = Sub
OUtlet 3, Bottom = Empty.
Each outlet is wired to it's own 20AMP breaker at the box.
I'm considering a whole-house surge protector at the box and a Tripp Lite Line conditioner for the 8 components I have.
I'd like to "clean up" the power a little more so than protect it. My homeowners insurance policy covers all of gear in the event of a surge for full REPLACEMENT value (as opposed to a depreciated figure).
The Tripp-Lite unit I'm considering is:
Tripp-Lite Line Conditioner
Bill
The unit you linked to would do the job, though I have read that this unit generates a loud hum when in operation. You may want to try it out before you buy.
ht_addict- Bottom
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I have both the Monster 5100 ss line conditioner and the 2000 ss power conditioner. I have all my components (including 1095) plugged into the 5100, and the 5100 plugged into the 2000.
I have not noticed any negative results or loss of clarity/power in doing so. This is what my dealer recommended.
Is there anything wrong with this configuration?
Thanks- Bottom
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I’ve RMB-1075 connect to a simple power distribution unit fitted with a mains RFI filter, earth line choke, transient suppressor and screened supply cable from Olson’s (http://www.soundfantastic.co.uk/). Based on my experience I can really listen sound improvement, with a much punchy bass and clear treble. So, in my opinion RMB-1075 and probably 1095 will benefit from a stable and clean mains. In general all appliances will benefit from a clean mains.Movies: Samsung LCD LE37A557, Rotel RSP-1066 & RMB-1075, Sony PS3, VdH D-102 Hybrid III interc, QED XT-350 & Supra Rondo 4x2,5 speaker cable, QED Qunex P75 coax, Monitor Audio Silver 5i/8i/10i speakers, REL Quake sub, QED Qunex SR-SW subwoofer cable, IXOS XHT458 HDMI, Supra LoRad, Isotek Mini Sub GII;
Music: Rega Planar 3, Goldring 1042, Vincent PHO-8, Krell KAV-280cd, Krell KAV-400xi, B&W 703, Siltech SQ-28 Classic G5 (XLR), Siltech LS-68 Classic Mk2, Nordost Vishnu, QED Qonduit MDH6.- Bottom
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Originally posted by mikeycMy Rotel dealer recommended that I plug in the amp directly into the outlet and not to worry about surges because the amp has its own protective circuits. By plugging it into the Monster he said it would "choke" it.
ht_addict- Bottom
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