Pictures of your Rotel Set-up

[Wega.zw]

That's a strange way to place your 1075. I'd be worried about reliability with that placement unless there's a fan hidden in there somewhere. The channel closest to the floor is probably running much hotter than the one on the 'top'.

The placement is no problem. The temperature of the 1075 is not to hot.
I´ve talked to rotel. They told me, this placement is possible.

[Fishy]

It might be worth getting a little 12v fan and pointing it to blow air in to the base of the amp, thus pushing colder air through and out of the top.

Fish

[chrispy35]

Actually the 'top' channel will suffer from heat, since heat rises, the bottom channel will stay the coolest since the heat from (technically the left channel) will rise to the top (right channel).

If the heat has nowhere to go...it mostly just stays put. The right channel heatsink in this case has much better ventilation and will do its duty. The left channel output transistors are sitting on top of their heatsink without much opportunity for air circulation at all.

[PewterTA]

Air will (because it's heated) rise up. This will cause the air from the left side transistors to heat the air at the bottom of the unit (what is the bottom with it standing on it's side). The air will rise up past the torodial transformer and up and out the right side (top). So the air the left side is getting will be pulled in at a cooler temperature and the "cool air" the right side receives will be the heated air from the left side since air can pass through the inside of the unit easily. If both sides were sealed off, then yes, I'd say the right side would be more cool.

[chrispy35]

Hmmm...I'm still not convinced. I'm not really convinced either way to tell the truth. I can see how some air would rise from the transistors but looking at the innards of a 1075 and the placement of that unit shows that the bottom heatsink is not operating in the way intended. There is only one side for air to enter the heatsink on so there won't be efficient movement of cool air across the fins as there would be on a normal rack (through the bottom vent, across the fins and out the top vent). Transistors lose most of their heat through the tab and not via the back of the case so most of the heat will getting transferred to the heatsink first and, despite the clear area above (in this case) the heatsink, it's not going to dissipate the heat very efficiently on that side.

I think we can both agree that the setup isn't ideal and it's quite likely that both channels are operating at a higher temperature than what would occur with a normal placement (neither heatsink is working as effectively as their design allows). Which one is highest is debatable until someone actually puts some thermocouples on the transistors and sees what the results are.

[chrispy35]

Actually, if the 1075 output devices are attached in a similar way to the 1095's, there really isn't much place for the air to go since there is a solid PCB covering the flat side of the heatsink.

Does anyone have any better photo of the heatsink/transistor interface on a 1075?

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...er-1-2000.html

On a side note, I love the cosmetic front heatsinks on the Rotel amps. They're about as functional as the hood scoop on my '97 non-turbo Subaru but they sure make the amps look nice.

[PewterTA]

Yes but you have to remember standing on it's side, the top openings on the case now become an "Inlet" for cooler air to enter into the unit. The top (aka the right side of your picture) in the (actual) top of the unit will allow heat to leave the unit. This will start to cause a drag that will pull the air from the left side of the unit up through to the right side and out. You can test this yourself if you have a way to take heat measurements.

The left side (or whichever is on the bottom) will stay roughly 2 to 3 degrees (celcius) cooler.

[PewterTA]

Here's a few pictures of my Rotel Gear.

Pictured are:
RSP-1098
RMB-1095
RT-1080
Cambridge Audio Azur 640c
Pioneer DV-563a
TV is a 27" JVC flatscreen sitting on top of a custom built rack (so the B&W LCR600 S3 would fit since it isn't shielded well enough to sit on top of the TV).
Speakers are B&W DM604 S3 (covered by official Pittsburgh Steeler Terrible Towels )

*Missing is the RB-1080 since there's no room in the cabinet & no room for the back channel speakers in the room.

This is all a temp location for the stuff so please don't mind the mess and wires in the back since at this moment I don't care.

But this is displaying my new project that's coming around and that's the cooling of the rotel gear by using left over computer parts I had. I used an old 250watt Antec (not super old) power supply with Smart fan technology as they say (keeps the RPMs low on the internal fans) and created a 12volt trigger to power it on and off with the Rotel gear. Then I hooked up three (will be 5 for the 1080) Thermaltake 80mm blue LED fans that are thermally controlled to cool as the units as they get hotter. I placed the fans over the hottest parts of the units (turned them on and watched a movie before I placed the fans). I was surprised to see that the fans actually increased in speed as the gear got hotter, nice!. I didn't think the gear would get hot enough to trigger them, but it does (barely). They run normally at 1300 RPM moving 21.6 CFM and make 17dBA of noise and MAYBE get to 1700 RPM at the most (if that, but are capable of 4800 RPM). So they can't even be heard from putting my ear right up to the front of the cabinet. I can attach the manual control if they become too loud to control the speed as well. But so far, they are moving a decent amoutn of air and are silent! Eventually when the gear gets to it's final resting place, the Powersupply will light up glass shelving using LED strips on the back. So this will control (through the 12volt trigger) both the fans and lit shelves. At least that's the idea I have.

First picture is a closer view of them with the flash from the camera used (barely can see the LED fans glowing).
Second picture is the full shot of them all powered on with one light on (no flash).
Third picture is in the dark (watching a movie) to give an idea of how bright the fans are compared to the units themselves (sorry it's a little blurry I don't know what happened). Also the blurring makes the fans a little bit brighter than they really are.
Fourth picture is the close up on the fans themselves ontop of the RMB-1095. I used little foam/rubber sticky pads cut up from 3M for sound absorbtion so the fans don't vibrate on the gear.

[chrispy35]

Yes but you have to remember standing on it's side, the top openings on the case now become an "Inlet" for cooler air to enter into the unit. The top (aka the right side of your picture) in the (actual) top of the unit will allow heat to leave the unit. This will start to cause a drag that will pull the air from the left side of the unit up through to the right side and out. You can test this yourself if you have a way to take heat measurements.

The left side (or whichever is on the bottom) will stay roughly 2 to 3 degrees (celcius) cooler.

We're all on the same page about hot air rising. The problem is that there is no easy path for the air to move. Air movement is critical here. The slower it moves, the more the transistors will heat up. The only entry to the heatsink closest to the floor is the (normal orientation) top vents that are visible next to the floor. This is the only access point for cold air entering and warm air leaving the heatsink, the two airflows will impede each other. Heatsinks are designed (along with the enclosure) to allow cooler air to enter on one side of the heatsink and then to naturally convect the heat away on the other). In this case, in order for the hot air from the bottom to reach the transistors at the top, it has to get through two solid PCBs which are poor thermal conductors (and a honking big transformer) in order to reach the upper transistors. It also has to decide that it wants to sneak in between the heatsink and PCB on the top rather than just go around it.

In a lab arrangement at work, we've had PCBs mounted horizontally in a rack with an open top with optional forced air ventilation between the PCBs. If airflow is turned off for a PCB 2nd from the top of the rack, devices on this PCB heat up much more than devices on the top PCB. The 2nd-from-top devices can be too hot to touch while the top devices will be hot but not burning-hot. PCB spacing was 1.6".

[i_amadeo]

my rmb 1095

well hi

i am an old home cinaima lover since 1995 van damm was still hot i started loving movies because of him ...and tom cruise was just bristling hot from interview with the vampire ... and dvd was still a luxury if any of you heard of LD ...

how time flies .... now things have changed and things will change further and i will not place any photos until i have some decent speakers so i removed those disgusting pics and sorry about those by the way i might have been aliitle tipsy to place those on the net

[i_amadeo]

sugerdady hahaaahhaaahhhaaaaahhhhhaaaaaaaaa

[bimmer528]

hey bimmer528, is the rack just long threaded pieces with nuts to hold the shelves? It is a great looking piece with the mahogany, must be tough to pieces that wide.

In a nutshell each mahogany wood if I can remember right was a max of 5 inches wide. So I glued 5 of them together and clamed them all together. Then they were run through a surfacer to 3/4''. Then shaped and the outside corners beveled. All pieces stacked up on top of each other perfectly and ran under the drill press for the 4 corners where the threaded rod secures them with nut's on the top and bottom's.

The rod and nuts were really cheap at home depot. The wood cost's some but to buy something like that from a retailer would cost you at least 500. Nobody makes cabinent's using real wood and mahogany for that matter for cheap. Even salamander is very expensive using either mdf or oak.. Both are much cheaper wood stock.

If you want to build something like that or replace your shelves with your own design.. I would go to a wood shop and have it done. It wont be expensive for something simple like that and it will allow you to get exactly what your needs are.

[PewterTA]

Threaded Rod and bolt design gets :T :T ha ha.

Definitely nice and easy and decently cheap.

On a side note, the cooling fans have dropped my gear's temperature in the cabinet by roughly 10 degrees F. Before the case of the 1095 would be really warm, now the case barely gets warm to the touch, infact the one time with 2ch listening the case felt as cold as if it had been off! :T

Definitely a worth while and helpful in prolonging the life of the equipment do-it-yourself project.

[hery]

Pictures of my Rotel Set Up

Finally, got some pictures to share :T

[sarsi]

Pictures of my humble Rotel Setup [Updated Dec 16'06]

After having follow the thread for quite sometime now, I finally decided to make the effort to post my little humble system to the thread.

Setup Details:
Rotel RSP 1098 - AV Surround Sound Processor
Rotel 1095 - Mulit Channel Power Amplifier
Rotel RB 1092 - Stereo Power Amplifier (New)
Marantz SA11S1 - SACD/CD Player (New)
Marantz DV9500 - Universal DVD Player
B&W 703 Front Main
B&W 704 Rear Surround
B&W HTM7 Center
B&W ASW750 Subwoofer
Speaker Cables: Kimber double-run 8TC biwire for front Left and Right, single run 8TC biwire for Center, single run 4TC for rear surround with 4TC jumper.
Interconnects: Kimber PBJ for pre/power and Kimber PBJ for 5.1 input from DVD player. Kimber Silver Streak for CD player. Kimber DV 75 for digital coaxial from DVD to SSP.
Subwoofer Cable: QED
Power cords: All Oyaide PC-OCCA PA23 Power Cords for components and Tunami Power Cord to Consonance Power Distributor.

Updated December 16,2006 - New improvement to my setup ; added new Marantz SA11S1 SACD player and Rotel RB1092 amp to drive the front Left and Right speakers, shortgun two pairs of 8TC for biwiring the front speakers ... I am a happy camper now ...

Well am I glad I finally come around to get my system setup posted to the thread. Very happy and honour to be member of this forum. Cheers to all the Proud Rotel owners !!! 1098/1095 is my proud prossession and a talking pieces among my visitors. Kudos Rotel Club.

[Kens1]

Sarsi, how does the MF equip sound compared to rotel for music playback?

[gd]

I'm also interested in that comparison... particularly in CD playback performance between the Marantz and the MF.

[sarsi]

Hi KenS1 and gd,

Thanks for your interest in my setup, I am glad to find similar interest folks on HT/Hifi setup.

I am not really good at analysing the differences between highend equipments,though I can see a lot of different when I upgraded to Rotel from my Marantz HT setup. But I cannot really tell lot of differences apart for the MF and Rotel (even there is, they are pretty marginal, but other may feel otherwise). If need to compare the two, I felt that the MF have better clarity and dynamic, tighter and more control bass, the music just come alive especially slow jazz and instrumental piece. On the other hand, the Rotel sound a bit more laid back but it not really a fair comparison since Rotel main duty are HT and MF is HiFi.

CD play back on the MF sound better than the Marantz (cannot compare SACD coz' the MF isn't a SACD player). I felt the MF have better details and clarity than the Marantz. I have not try the Marantz playback on MF int amp though, maybe I should find sometime to test it out.

I did compare my stereo only setup Roksan Capsian M-Series 1 (completely Capsian), which is smoother and sweet than the MF, I felt one will not get fatigue for prolong listening. I felt the system just disappear all together with only the music presenting to you. Again, I think MF is more dynaminc, tighter and better bass control over Roksan, but the bass is a touch too harsh compare to the Roksan. However, Roksan do not have the HT input for me to hook it up like MF to the HT setup. Sorry for diverting, I got too excited talking about my toys.

Having said that I absolute love each and every piece of my valuable toys (I mean equipment), as well as how each difference sound which I don't think one better than the other, their strength are difference applications, i.e. movie, songs, instrumental, etc. I think every piece look beauty in it own way as well, especially my rotel 1098/1095

[gd]

sarsi --- thanks for the reply and review... that is a super system you have there... yes, all of us here enjoy our toys, too... enjoy!

[weijst]

Have been busy upgrading my system the last few months:

• replaced 705's with N804's
• replaced HTM7 with HTM2
• replaced NAD tuner with the RT-1080
• replaced all cables

Thought it was time for some new photos!

Next steps (in random order, any ideas?):

• replace Marantz with (upcoming) Rotel DVD player
• replace surrounds with SCM1's or N805's
• add subwoofer (ASW750 or SVS)
• perhaps add dedicated 2ch amp (maybe a digital amp)

Anyway, I'm getting there

[Mark1Ace1]

I'm still waiting on a few more items to arrive, including the Toshiba 62 DLP RPTV, which will replace my Tosh 51 RPTV crt...But as soon as that has arrived and everything is in its place, I will get some pictures up...Thats if I can find my camera...

[Bing Fung]

I love how clean your guys Rotel set-ups are... Something about the design of the Rotels must foster that :T


Nice to see this thread going strong, keep up the great work guys :amen:

[The_A_V_Guy]

Ok here's some pictures of my baby!

My pride and joy!!!


Components
Pioneer SD-533HD5 53" 16X9 HDTV-Ready
Rotel RSX-1056 - 5.1 Surround Receiver (Black)
Rotel RB-1080 - 200W x2 stereo amplifier (Black)
Rotel RCD-1072 - Single Disc CD Player (Black)
Denon DVD-3910 - DVD/DVD-A/SACD Player
Panamax MAX 5300 - Noise Filter/Surge Protector
DirecTV H-10 HD Satellite Receiver
JVC TDW-354BK - Dual Cassette Deck
MItsubishi HSU-510 - VCR
Mitsubishi HSU-420 VCR


Speakers
Vandersteen 2Ce Signature - (Mahogany Stained Walnut) w/ stands
Vandersteen VCC-1 Center Channel - (Mahogany Stained Walnut)
Polk RT-800 (pair) - Tower Surrounds
Velodyne VA79XII - Subwoofer


Cables
AudioQuest CV-6 DBS- Speaker - Mains & Center (10ft X 3 Double Bi-Wire)
AudioQuest Type 4 - Speaker - Surround (30ft pr)
AudioQuest Hawkeye DBS- Digital Coax (1m) (DVD)
AudioQuest Jaguar DBS- Analog (1m pr) (CD)
AudioQuest Jaguar DBS- Analog (1m pr) (AMP)
AudioQuest YIQ-3 - Component Video (2m)
AudioQuest YIQ-1/X - Component Video (2m)
AudioQuest NRG-3 Power (Receiver) (3ft)
AudioQuest NRG-3 Power (Amplifier) (3ft)
AudioQuest NRG-3 Power (CD) (3ft)
AudioQuest NRG-3 Power (DVD) (3ft)
AudioQuest Jade - Subwoofer Kit (6m)
AudioQuest Digital 2 - Digital Coax (2m)
AudioQuest Topaz - Analog (1m pr)
AudioQuest Jade - Analog (1m pr x 2)
AudioQuest Video One - Composite Video (2m)
Monster Cable Video-1 - F-pin (3 ft)

[rnoble]

I love how clean your guys Rotel set-ups are... Something about the design of the Rotels must foster that :T


Nice to see this thread going strong, keep up the great work guys :amen:

Hey Bing this is a bit OT but I just checked out your link to your system and noticed that you had troubles getting the dip out of the xover point with your BFD. I also struggled with this, I think it's due to phase shift, a lot of passive xovers introduce phase shift which makes it damned hard to iron out that dip - I hear that adjusting phase on the sub can help.

Anyway back to regular viewing of these brilliant setups.

[gianni]

AV Guy,

Just one technical question: Is that crushed red pepper next to the wine glass?

[The_A_V_Guy]

LOL yep! I like my gear like I like my food hot and spicy!

[labbetuss50]

My home Cinema:



Hi folks!

Haven't been much in this forum but I thought I would share pictures of my components with you. I hope you like it

I have following components:

Picture:

Panasonic PT-AE700
Adeo Greyvision 84" lerret
Vogel ceiling mount for the AE700

Philips 32" 100Hz Widescreen
Denon DVD2900

Amplifiers:

Rotel RSP-1068 Processor
Rotel RMB-1095 5ch Amp
Rotel RB-1090 2ch Amp

Speakers:

Front: Klipsch RF-7
Center: Klipsch RC-7
Rear: Klipsch RF-5

Subwoofer: Velodyne DD-18 :twisted:

Cables:

SP Front and Center: Monster M2.2
SP Rear: Monster M1.2

Signal:

Nordost Optix Digital 1m (Dvd to Prosessor)
Kimber Hero 5*1m (Signal from processor to amps)
Monster MSB-850SW Subwoofercable

Nordost Scartcabel
Monstet Video 3 Componentcable

Monster Powercenter HTS1000

Sound Organisation Z530S Rack

Nordost Pulsar Points for my front speakers
Holfi Feet for rear, center and sub

Future plans: SVS PB12 Plus/2 or another Velodyne DD18. New dvd player or a scaler (most probably the new Rotel RVE1070) HDMi, Blue Ray plus plus...

I am from Norway so you have to excuse my english I am afraid I can't show you any pictures because of the limited file size thing. It's limited to only 100kB. My pics are 350kB+.

[labbetuss50]

I found a way to shrink my pictures, so here you are I am only 19 years old so don't have much compared to you people on the forum, but it's okay

I hope you like it:

[labbetuss50]

Hope you like it

Here is some more pics:

[labbetuss50]

I know some or most of you will question my placement of the amps concerning heat and so on. I can tell you at once that there is no heat problem. for instance; at vol 82 on the 1068 and playing for 6hrs (star wars, chronicles of riddick, the day after tomorrow ++) the 1090 was barely warm and the 1095 was tepid. This is no problem at all. Not for the 1068 or dvd 2900 either so relax!

Regards

KML

[rnoble]

I know some or most of you will question my placement of the amps concerning heat and so on. I can tell you at once that there is no heat problem. for instance; at vol 82 on the 1068 and playing for 6hrs (star wars, chronicles of riddick, the day after tomorrow ++) the 1090 was barely warm and the 1095 was tepid. This is no problem at all. Not for the 1068 or dvd 2900 either so relax!

Regards

KML

Hey KML you must like it LOUD - very nice setup, that sub must be awesome...

[labbetuss50]

Thanks!

Oh yess, trust me, it is very good. Loud, hmmm, wouldn't say that, but it's nice to have the possibility tho Just kidding. Actually it plays very good across the entire range. Not just loud, but also balanced end relaxed. Not much distortion in this set-up!

You must excuse my english (I am 19 and from Norway )

Thanks for nice comments!

Regards

KML

[Kens1]

Only 19! When I was 19 I had a boom box and a 20" tv LOL.
Very nice set up!

[labbetuss50]

Thank you Kens. I really appreciate your compliments! In comparison to many on this forum it's not much... I hope you like it

[BlazeMaster]

wow labbetuss, that's a very respectable system for your age. I thought mine was for a 25 year old. Is this all in your bedroom? How big is the room, and how do you cope with fitting a system and other stuff?

[labbetuss50]

Hi BlazemMaster,

and thank you so much for your compliments. I simply chose the components from what i liked and after a lot of listening i found out that i wanted these components It sounds very good all together The room i pretty big and difficult, but me and my brother has worked a lot adjustin level, delay and last, but not least, integrating the sub . I don't have the actual size on the room, but its relatively large. And it is on the top floor outside my bedroom

Thank you!

Regards,

KML

[zeppelin]

My Humble HT Setup.

[zeppelin]

More of My Humble HT Setup. .

I have following components:

PJ: Hitachi TX100
Customise DIY PJ Bracket with motorise Screen.

Players:
DVD: Marantz DV9500
LD: Pioneer CLD R5

Pre Amp and Amps:
Rotel RSP-1066 Processor
5X Rotel RB 970-BX all bridge to mono.


Speakers:
Front: Definitive Technology Bipolar BP2006 with active sub
Center: Definitive Technology Pro Centre C2
Rear: Moratori Julia with passive radiator

Subwoofer: Yamaha SWT500, not shown in picture located at the sitting area.

Room 4m X 3M all 4 walls + Floor carpeted include with Ecophon Master Alpha, 95% Ceiling Area treated with Ecophon Master alpha.

[labbetuss50]

Nice!

Very nice setup Blazemaster! I bet this sounds well!? How does that Marantz 9500 sound? I've been curious about that for a long time

[stewfoo]

ok Here's my gear
Rotel 1068
Rotel 1095 amp
Toshiba cd/dvd player (ugghh)
Rel Stentor III
B&W 803s
B&W Htm3s
ccm80 rear ceilings

[whmacs]

Hi Guys,
I've gone to the next step and threw together a bit of a web site on my HT setup. The site is located here

thanks for looking,
cheers,
Stephen

[BlazeMaster]

nice job steph, love the gear and that couch...

@labbetuss50...I wish that was my setup....

[labbetuss50]

Tnx Blazemaster! At the moment i'm building a wall across the open room so that i will have the entire home cinema in one room and not one floor

It will be about 20 square meters (+) so i hope for better sound in this room
next thing on is a new dvd player, denon dvd a1xv

[mucke]

Here is mine Rotel setup.

Primare V25-DVD
Rotel RT-1080
Rotel RC-1070
Rotel RB-1070
B&W 704.

[mucke]

Here is one more: