Clicking sound Rotel equipment.

[>>Angel<<]

Hi guys,

Recently I noticed a clicking sound sound that is coming from one of my Rotel devices. This click randomly occurs in both the active or standy mode. During the active mode I think the click occurs more often, you should think in terms of every 15-25 minutes, but not always. During the standby mode I once noticed the click right after switching the equipment to standby mode.

At first I thought it was the audio mode switching functionality (e.g. DD > DTS) of the RSP-1098, the click has a similar sound, but as previously inidcated it also happens when the equipment is in standy mode.

Since I have three devices (read: RSP-1098, RT-1080, RMB-1075) in close vicinity of eachother, I haven't yet been able to determine which device is producing this click

Regardless of the click all the devices still operate excellent and as expected.

I am wondering if this finding is causing/can cause serious harm to my equipment or that this is a common situation for these types of Rotel equipment.

Please advice.

Regards,
Angelo

[PewterTA]

If it sounds like a relay clicking, then that's probably what it is. I would definitely try to isolate it down to which thing it is... I can also most certainly tell you it's not the RT-1080 as there's nothing in there that should click (even when powering on or off)...mine doesn't make any sound turning off or on.

I'd try powering on the 1098 and unplugging the 1075 just to get an idea of which device it is... at least to start.

Most likely it's the 1098 though since it has the most relays in it.

[>>Angel<<]

Thanx for the advice.

The clicking sound now really has become a problem:-(

My wife has switched on all the Rotel equipment this afternoon and at that same time the whole livingroom was out of electricity (including the Rotel equipment itself). After a closer study I found out that the problem is related to the 12v trigger connection between the 1098 and the 1075.

I configured the 1098 that the 1075 is triggered on channel 1. So when trying to reproduce the situation, having the 1075 & 1098 active, I opened the 1098 menu and selected the INPUT submenu. Then I selected the 12V TRIGGER section and went through the selection available. After making a couple of rounds through the options (1 >2> 1+2 >1+2+3 , etc) the system went down at the moment I adressed channel 1. I also tried to reproduce this situation while the 1075 was powered down: resulting in no system shutdown.

With every system stutdown the 1098 has reset itself resulting in the fact that during the next startup all my programmed setting are gone.

I am very lost in this situation: is the 1098 or 1075 causing the problem?
If the 1098 is causing the problem, why doesn't the shutdown occur when the 1075 has been inactivated?
If the 1075 is the problem, why is the 1098 resetting itself to the factory deafult settings after a shutdown?
What can be the case with this 12v trigger thing? IS a device pushing to much electricity over the 12v line?

Can you please help me out to determine the root cause?

Thanx in advance,
Angelo

I am a little lost

[Kevin D]

Have you tried moving the cable to 2 or 3 and removing 1 from all inputs? You'll have to go step by step to rule out each one. Whether it's just trigger 1, all triggers on the 1098, or the trigger on the 1075.

Could even be the cable its self. Being the 1098 shuts-down and resets only when the 1075 is powered down, I would think the 1075. Do you have anything else with a trigger input you could test the 1098's output on?

Kevin D.

[>>Angel<<]

Thanx Kevin for the advice.

This afternoon I adressed the issue with the Rotel technical support in the Netherlands. They came up with the idea that I should use "delayed" fuses in the electrical circuit in my house in order to spread the electrical peaks between switching on the 1098 and the 1075. Basically they indicated that the 1075 is causing the problem since, starting it up, it is using more electricity than the electrical circuit in my house can handle.

From a technical point of view this sounds logical, but since nothing has changed for years concerning the usage off all the connected devices to the electrical circuit in the house, I think the solution of using "delayed" fuses will not have the desired effect since, in one of my previously performed tests, an overall power failure is also occuring when the 1098 is active and accordingly the 1075 is being activated using the 12v trigger.

What can help me a great deal is if anyone knows in what situations the 1098 configuration settings are being reset to the factory default ones?

I know for one that you can reset these settings manually in the 1098's menu, but if the electricity is suddenly being cut off from the 1098 is standard behaviour that the configuration settings will be reset? Does anyone know the behaviour in this situation?

Regards,
Angelo

[Kevin D]

What can help me a great deal is if anyone knows in what situations the 1098 configuration settings are being reset to the factory default ones?

Regards,
Angelo

The only time I've seen units default to factory settings is during low voltage (brown-out) situations. Usually during a storm and the power is pulsing like it's about to go out.

So it does fit your situation:

1) 1098 kicks on, pulling power, immediately turning the 1075 on
2) 1075 kicks on drawing even more power.
3) On the way to blowing the fuse, the voltage drops low enough to default the 1098.

Try this. Disconnect the trigger cable, then turn on the 1098. Wait 15 seconds and then turn on the 1075 manually. If this works, you could get a RLC-1040 or equivalent APC model (Or even an older RLC-900). These have delayed outlets that will let the first equipment stabilize before kicking on the amplifiers.

Not sure why it would suddenly be a problem. Do you have actual fuses there or resettable circuit breakers like we do? I've heard of circuit breakers slowly de-rating themselves after prolonged periods of 'on the edge' levels.

I'm assuming the equipment isn't on a dedicated circuit since you said the whole living room goes out. The 1098, 1075, and all your other equipment is easily close to maxing out a typical circuit at turn on. Have you added anything else to the room lately that might have put you over amperage on the circuit?

Kevin D.

[>>Angel<<]

Thanx Kevin for the advice, I appreciate it.

Since I want the best for my equipment/sound reproduction, in combination of tackling the problem I am having, today I decided to create a new electrical circuit group in the house dedicated for this equipment. After a visit to a local high-end audio shop I returned with a special electric circuit braker for audio (delayed, gold plated fuses and wiring), 13 meters of extremely shielded power cable and a new cabinet for the powerplugs. I was really surprised about the costs of just 13 meter of power cable: 500 Euro:-(
Has anybody experience with the use of these types of power cables?

Regards,
Angelo