Rlc-1040

[miner]

I added the RLC-1040 to my mix of Rotel equipment. My audio advisor actually suggested not to plug my RB-1092 into the power conditioner. He said only conditioners he would plug an amp into would be ones with dual transformers - like the Panamax 5500EX. Can someone please explain to me, in layman terms, why NOT to plug into a conditioner? Previously all on my equipment was plugged into an APC surge protector. I did notice an improvment sonically when I replaced the surge unit with the conditioner. :T

[shep]

My RLC1040 is on order, and I do plan to plug my RB-1090 into it - it is designed to protect and condition the power amp, and that is how I intend to use it. Haven't heard otherwise, but maybe the issue has to do with the "digital" amps?

[miner]

His comment was it would affect analogue amps more than digital. He suggested plugging amp directly into wall socket, listen for a bit, then plug into RLC. Just as he told me, sans PLC, the map was 'fuller'. I sleep better at night knowing my equipment is protected.

[shep]

using RLC-1040 with my RB-1090 - tripped circuit breaker 2x

Plugged everything (RB-1090, RC-1070, RCD-1072) into my new RLC-1040. Here is the outcome so far...

Haven't done a careful a/b comparison but sounds about the same to me at this point. However, I have tripped the 15 amp circuit (nothing else is plugged into this circuit) twice when starting up the RB-1090. When it doesn't trip the circuit, the RLC-1040's overload light blinks briefly like the amp is close to tripping it. Never tripped it before.

Jury's still out - I am supposed to feel better about all my toys being plugged into it...

[Club1820]

Shep, so why do you think the circuit was tripped? Is the RLC the last straw that the circuit can handle? I am assuming this wasnt a problem before. ?

[aud19]

Shep, so why do you think the circuit was tripped? Is the RLC the last straw that the circuit can handle? I am assuming this wasnt a problem before. ?

Amps, particularly larger ones, draw a lot of current on initial startup. I thought the Rotel/APC units had amp-specific outlets that allowed for a higher than normal current flow....? If not there's always the option of leaving the amp on standby or perhaps finding the best power up order etc.

Anyways, Shep regarding your comments, I get the feeling you were exepecting a large performance gain from the 1040? Power Conditioners don't tend to offer much performance increase unless you already have fairly dirty/noisy/brownout/surge-prone electrical in the first place. Their reason for being is protection and IMO spending a few hundred to protect thousands of dollars worth of gear is a VERY good idea indeed. Think of it from that perspective It's not "sexy" but you'll be glad you have it if you ever need it :yesnod:

[slowrey]

On the RLC-1040 you can adjust the delay time in which the AMP outlet is turned on however you will have to run a 1/8" plug from your pre-amp to your 1040 to activate that function.
In my house this is what I have plugged into my 1040:

RSX-1057
RMB-1075
Scientific Atlanta HD8300
Toshiba HD-A1
etc

[Marlboroman]

I would suggest that you upgrade the circuit to 20 amps since the RB-1090 draws around 18 amps upon startup. It is a very momentary draw but that coupled with the other equipment can trip your breaker. I am amazed that you have not tripped it more often.

[Club1820]

Marlboroman, switching out the 15 to a 20 amp, - Is that a simple process? I mean, is it just a matter of purchasing a 20 amp circuit and replacing the 15 amp one? Or is there something else "electrical" involved?

I ask because my audio equipment will also be on one 15 amp circuit (currently finishing the basement-practically done) and I am now wondering if I will have the same problem of tripping the circuit.

Thanks.


Equip: Pre/Pro 1068, 1095 amp, 1060 DVD, Rlc 1040, and 956 amp

[Clepto]

Well, if you want to meet code, you'll want to make sure that the wiring is sufficient to run 20 amp. And of course, you'll want to make sure your breaker box can still adequately provide the amps necessary to the rest of the house, though a 5 amp increase shouldn't necessarily be a deal breaker...

But if you're only getting 200 amps to your house, and you have 220 amps worth of breakers...

[David L.]

You CANNOT just replace the breaker with a 20 amp breaker and be on your way. A 20 amp breaker requires a minimum of 12 ga. wire, the wiring going to your 15 amp breaker is most likely 14 gauge.

[Club1820]

Clepto and David, thanks for the responses. Yes, I didnt think it would be a matter of just switching them out. I will verify all of the above before switching. Better yet - I will wait to hook up the equipment and see if it is fine with the 15 amp first.

thanks again.

[shep]

let me clarify...

I have a 15 amp dedicated circuit - nothing else plugged into it other than the stereo. Ran it myself and had an electrician do the wiring at the circuit box to make sure everything was to code. the RB-1090 had never tripped the circuit before, although I know it draws quite a bit when you first turn it on. It doesn't have a standby mode or 12v trigger. So, I do the following:

turn on the RLC-1040, which turns on the RB-1090 after a few second delay. Then I separately turn on the RC-1070 and the RCD-1072.

I wasn't expecting the RLC-1040 to make a huge improvement, but I did expect it to help resolve the hum problem I have. I think I have located the problem. The power line servicing the wall outlet shares a small access hole in the basement with the in-wall speaker wire. I am going to reroute the power line to move it a few inches away. Will see if that takes care of a low-level hum (like minor feedback on a PA system, but only audible if you put your ear up against the speakers). Otherwise, I do feel confident that the RLC-1040 is protecting me from lightning, spikes, etc.

If the circuit trips again, though, I will run 12 gauge and install a 20 amp circuit. Didn't get into this hobby so I could spend time running from arm chair to circuit box...