Early impressions on C1

[starford]

I just opened up my new C1 last night, and here's some early impressions:

1. The unit is really good looking; the pictures do it justice. The chassis isn't as solid as some other controllers I've seen, and it's rather light for such a big (4RU) box. The top cover looks good with PARASOUND stamped in the front, but it has a sort of cheap feeling pebble grain finish.
   
   The unit comes packaged in a big velvet (or velour) bag. A nice touch.
   
   The remotes are terrific. The TM 700 OEM main remote looks and feels solid, and Parasound provides easy programming tools on their web site. This should be easier to customize that the Philips Pronto. They even include Duracell batteries. Another nice touch.
   
   They also include a pair of 12v trigger cables (or IR) and BNC to RCA adapters. If you haven't bought your video cables yet, get them with BNCs on at least one end. You'll love the positive lock connection they give.
   
   The volume knob seems a bit flimsy to me. You can push it left and right with little force, almost as if it was supposed to be a joystick. Compared to the volume knob on my old Yamaha RX-V2095, this one seems cheap. Note that from the early press photos of this unit, Parasound went from a finger dial (like on Pioneer DVD changers) to a full knob.

On first hook up, I connected the front two channels and a CD player via optical. I observed some odd behavior at first:

1. I had to program a source and put the proper optical port in it. There wasn't a pre-built "CD" port to use. There is an Audio 1-6 pre-built, but it's almost easier to just build a source for yourself, using numbered ports you're sure you've jacked-in to.
   
   The source, once built, wouldn't recognize the digital signal until I switched away from it and returned. The "Digital Error" message that flashes is the DAC trying to sync.
   
   Once that was done, I couldn't get any sound out of the speakers. This was most disturbing. I fiddled and fiddled, but got nothing. Powered it on, off, and on again. After about 15 minutes of digging, the unit made some clicking sounds and voila! Music!

At this point, it was getting late, so I left it to sit and went to bed. One interesting note: If you push and hold the front power-on switch at turn-on, the display will show firmware load and some other details about the flash.

This morning, I'm back in there to troubleshoot, and a quick test of the current setup actually worked. After more investigation, I've come to believe this problem was related to the mute relays. Apparently this unit uses relays (not eletronics) to mute the output. I believe this unit was 'stuck' in mute for a while and finally released it (the clicking I heard) after warming up.

After some on-off testing, I find that it now starts up and plays very quickly, so I don't think the 'stuck' problem will continue. The unit 'sounds' very good, easily the equal to the Yamaha. I haven't done any critial listening, prefering to wait a few weeks while it 'burns in'. Early impressions are very good, though.

[Lex]

Congrats on the C1 Starford. Sounds like me in configuration. Oh crap, oh crap! Oh, ok, now it's working.

Keep us posted with your continued efforts.

Lex

[Chris D]

I give you a congratulatory banana! :banana: Please keep us updated on your impressions as you get more and more familiar with your C1.




CHRIS
Luke: "Hey, I'm not such a bad pilot myself, you know"

[Jariten]

SO...my impressions after about 1 month of playing around with the C-1...

I didn't have any problem setting it up...
I didn't have the mute relays problem...(My DVD player uses relays instead of electronics to mute...Denon DVD5000)

The reason for which the C1 is so big (tall) is because of the sheer number of inputs/outputs on the back..

The volume knob...doesn't feel as solid as the one on the AVC....but since I barely touch it....^_^;; it's a simple digital encoder....so...no biggie

I have been playing with the COmponent inputs/output since I received my Catcables...Thanks Lex.....

Couldn't be happier!!
The pic is so good!
really enjoyable!

hummm what else...
Concerning the finish of the upper cover...
I think it's not too bad looking....
it's not polished aluminum ...but still nice...
they could have closed it with a thick plate like the HCA-2205A or something like that...
but it's not that important


=)

[starford]

Another week with the C1, and some more observations.

The unit produces some heat when sitting (off but plugged in) and some consiterable heat when in use. All those slots in the top panel are there for a reason. Keep the video display OFF when not in use.

The anlaog RCA jacks are arrayed in a mind-bending double row along the bottom. Trying to find connections while bending over from front to back is neigh impossible. You really need to look it straight on.

I'm getting a bit more comfortable with the C1's menu layout and programming approach. While I haven't actually tried it, using the HaloControl software looks like the hands-down winner for getting this unit programmed up for the first time. All the stuff that's so hard to find/navigate to is right up front in HaloControl.

On that note: I find programming via the front panel to be a bit frustrating. The menus are a list, which I would expect the volume knob to allow me to scroll through, while using a push button to make a choice (something like "Select"). The C1 is actually set up opposite to this; turning the volume dial makes a choice, and the Menu push button is used to scroll the pointer. This caused much confusion and frustration at first.

For example, when you first call up the menu screen, a quick turn of the dial sends you three layers deep in the structure and changes a setting before you can stop it. You then have to carefully back out (using the Menu button to click down the list to Exit, the again click-click-click down to Exit) to get to where you started.

The second thing I've tried to do whith the C1 is use the Zone outputs. Well, it didn't work. I'm still not sure why, but I think it's because you have to specify which source (of the ten) should go to the Zone outputs. With fully assignable I/O, any source could have any (non-sequental) ports assoicated with it. Also, digital sources are mirrored on all interfaces except Zone outputs, so you MUST also cable analog inputs if you want to use them in Zone 2.

Setting the source for Zone 2, at least via the front panel, appears to be impossible. The Zone button on the front is a toggle to tell the unit you are now referring to Zone and not Main sources. However, at this point, the video display goes blank. Pushing Zone again turns the view back on, with a message at the bottom that says "Zone Off". What does that mean? Am I "off" of Zone programming, or is the Zone outputs turned off? It's hard to tell when you and in and out of Zone mode.

With the Zone button pressed, it halos brighter (a mild change of state that can not be detected in a lit room). I can't seem to get the display to show a meanigful source selection screen while the Zone button is highlighted. Frustrating. It's all very clear and simple in HaloControl.

On a better note: the included MX-700 universal remote is excellent. I've had little trouble programming it to control my sources and lights. The current version of the software comes with special Halo commands pre-built and a slew of other devices. I couldn't find my MD player (Sony MDS-JB930) or my projector (Plus HE-3100), but it's OK, as the software can read .ccf files built for Philips Pronto, and there's an unlimited number of devices available for that via RemoteCentral.com. I used .ccf files to program the lights (Lutron Spacer) as well. If you decide to use the programming software, be sure to use the Update From Web command in it right away. You'll get new IR codes and even some new features.

I've attached the C1 to my Xantech IR distribution block. Operation via this interface is flawless; way, way better than sticking a flasher mouse on the front.

I'll make a more serious attempt at programming and testing the C1 in a few weeks when the equipment racks arrive. It'll have a permanent home then, and I can wire it all up and see how it works.

[Chris D]

Starford- Just to be clear, you connected the C1 directly to the Xantech IR block via 1/8" plugs, and not with an IR emitter on the C1? Cool. Glad to hear that's working so well. I was curious.

Thanks for the comments. Hope to have some answers for you sometime soon.




CHRIS
Luke: "Hey, I'm not such a bad pilot myself, you know"

[starford]

Chris-

That's correct- the C1 is connected to the Xantech distribution block directly with a 1/8" (3.5mm) mono cable. I used the "main" jack on the C1, as I only have one zone of IR control, and one of the eight IR emitter jacks on the output side of the Xantech, where normally you'd plug in a flasher mouse. Very cool.

I've also verified that the 12v trigger works, at least on my Monster Power distribution box. Funny thing is Parasound includes two cables for this, but they are special mini jack (3.5mm) to sub-mini jack (2.5mm) cables for Parasound gear only. Stop by Radio Shack if you need same-ended 3.5mm cables (same as used by lots of brands for inter-chassis control, like Sony CD to MD).

I also tried out the HaloControl this week. I had no trouble using it on a laptop with a Belkin USB-Serial adapter (no built in serial port). HaloControl isn't exactly intended to be a real-time control software, even though it has controls for volume and such. It seems better for config master programming, as it's interaction with the C1 is via upload and download. What I mean to say is, it's no AMX system.

The ability to set the boot-up and shutdown messages make it worth trying out. The second best thing is programming the sources, which goes quickly and intuitivly. Also, keeping a backup of the programing via download is handy.

[David Meek]

FYI, the latest issue of Widescreen Review has a very complimentary review of the C-1 by Perry Sun in it.




David - HTGuide flunky
Our "Theater"
Our DVDs on DVD Tracker

[jkscherk]

I'm quite interested in your Xantech/C1 combination. I have a C2 using a Xantech 795-20 4-zone amplified distribution block. I can't get the rear panel jacks to recognize the signal. Do you have a block that's working in high-power modes(through the use of the jumpers at the IR output jacks)? Its been a somewhat frustrating experience so far as the rear jacks, although the are listed as Main and Zone, both are identical and require you to use the Zone command on the remote to control the remote zone. I also verified this with Tech Support. For now, I've settled for using a flasher on the front......every other piece of gear has one anyway.

John

[starford]

John-

The C1 is wired from the Main jack to a Xantech 791-44 (one in, eight out) dist. block with a 1/8" Radio Shack cable to one of the "Emitters" jacks on the eight-out side of the block. All eight emitters are set to low power (no jumper). Nothing fancy. Everything seems to work fine, unless the IR is bouncing off the screen and making it work that way (don't think so).

Thoughts: is your interconnect cable making a full and complete connection? Does it insert all the way and 'click home'? I haven't had this problem with the RS cable, but I suppose it's possible. Is it a mono (tip and sleeve only) cable? Does an emitter work OK in the same output jack (I keep a Blink IR emitter on hand for the visual feedback feature)?

BTW, eveybody, does anyone have a URL or site name for downloading firmware updates for the C1/C2? The review mentioned above suggests that there's been several updates for the C1 already, but nothing posted on the Parasound site.

Oh, yea! Before I forget- I was able to make the C1 lock up yesterday while fiddling with it. Not a proud moment, but FYI in case you run into this yourself. I had it powered on, and a CD playing through the Optical 1 jack (assigned to the first Audio source). I decided to attach the DVD, so on goes it's fiber, I make the button presses (front panel) and heard nothing. I double checked, and realized that I had the wrong digital jack associtaed with that source.

Into the menues I go, and I reassigned the correct optical source (CD still playing) and made my way back out (still front panel). I switched to the DVD source, watched the display lock on to a Digital PCM stream and... nothing. Huh.

I switch back to CD (still spinning) and nothing. FPD reports Digital PCM data but no sound. Worked a minute ago. Back to DVD, nothing. I switch it off using the front panel power, then on again, nothing. Not good.

I turn it all off, and flip the rear panel on/off switch. Bring it all up again (no changes to config) and it works! Sound from both CD and DVD optical sources. That must of been a 'hard reboot'. Hence, looking for firmware.

[Chris D]

Not sure what happened there for you. I don't believe there are any software or firmware update releases for the C1/2 yet, although I haven't gotten my hands on the Widescreen Review piece yet. (anyone want to post it here for us?)

Parasound has worked out some preliminary bugs with the C1/2, and has even offered to take back early models to iron out identified bugs, but as far as I know has not distributed any updates out to the public. I'm hearing rumors though, that some sort of upgrades are in the works, whether it be firmware or hardware. Can't wait!

To stay up to speed with the HALO line, just periodically check on the Parasound website http://www.parasound.com or the press release website for parasound http://www.gspr.com/parasound/




CHRIS
Luke: "Hey, I'm not such a bad pilot myself, you know"

[Jariten]

Hummm Firmware updates?


Time to ask my dealer in TX...

if I find something..I'll post...

T.

[jkscherk]

Starford-

I am using a mono cable (from RS) and it is engaged all the way. I had a 791-44 in my system for some testing and I was able to get it to work with the rear panel jacks (both in high and low power modes.) Problem is it didn't support multiple zones. The 795-20, also amplified but no high-low power option, does do multiple zones. It would almost seem that the -44 has enough juice to get them to respond, but the -20 is just a little lacking.

BTW have you done any comparisons between analog in with Stereo96 mode versus dgitial in with Stereo? Iv've tried both, thinking the Stereo96 would be better, but I can hardly tell any difference at all.

John

[David Meek]

Tony, who's your dealer in Texas? Also, how on earth did you wind up using a Texas dealer from Tokyo? 8O




David - HTGuide flunky
Our "Theater"
Our DVDs on DVD Tracker

[starford]

Here's the Widescreen review URL:

http://www.widescreenreview.com/attractions/eqrev5.html

And the specific quote I'm referencing:

The C 1’s DSP firmware can be upgraded through the RS-232 port, when connected to a PC. The port can also be used to control the C 1 and also upload and download system settings using the proprietary HaloControl software (see sidebar). Several firmware updates to the C 1 have been made available since its launch, and I updated my review sample twice during its evaluation period.

Does this reviewer know something I don't know? Apparently. I wonder: is HaloControl the container for firmware updates, or will there be a seperate loader tool of some sort? I've e-mailed Parasound's tec support with no response so far.

John- I haven't had a chance to do any critical listening (or much fun at all) with it. Much of the HT gear is new, or nearly so (upstream from the main channels amp), so I'm letting it all settle in a few weeks before I go listening very closely. My main hold-up is that all this stuff is supposed to go into Middle Atlantic racks eventually, but I keep finding ways to flesh out the gear roster before I get the racks ordered. So, I can't really hook it all up and fiddle until the racks are in place.

[Chris D]

Very interesting. I just talked to a Parasound rep yesterday, and talked about future upgrades, but forgot to ask about past updates.

There's also a review on the A51 amplifier on the widescreen review site. I'll post these links in another thread.




CHRIS
Luke: "Hey, I'm not such a bad pilot myself, you know"

[starford]

Another few tid-bits I've picked up:

The component video inputs/output are (apparently) always active, whether the C1 is on or off. I was trying different things, and switched the C1 off while the DVD was still playing. The sound dropped, but the video kept on going like nothing had happened. Odd.

Switching between component sources must be an electronic function, as there's no mechanical clicking to be heard.

Just to reinforce something I'd missed in the manual the first time: there is NO OSD on the component output. If most of your viewing is done via that connection, and you want to see the OSD from your main viewing location, then be sure to attach an s-video or composite cable as well.

For the first time, a feature of the C1 worked at first try and as I expected it would (the C1 has actually had a lot work correctly, but often in ways I wasn't expecting). Now that I have all the rear channel amplification installed, I could go through the auto-calibrate functions (level & distance). Well, it worked like a charm. It was a cool thing to watch (over my sholder, b/c the OSD issue above).

I have a 6.1 speaker setup (one rear center channel), so I set my C1 for Surround Back as "1 Small". I found it's signal on the Left Back Surround channel (as opposed to the Right Back Surround).

Another note on terminology: the C1 will let you select lots of different processing modes via the Surround button. None of them make much sense unless you first consider the source type you're selecting. I kept searching for a Dolby Digital or DTS mode that I could pre-select before starting up my DVD; none exists.

Luckily, the C1 detects (most of the time) that a DD or DTS signal is present, and sets the surround mode to Direct. At first I thought this was an error, as I was expecting (again, a bad pre-conception) it to say Dolby Digital or some such. What DOES change is the text following Signal (just below Audio on the Status screen). This will display something cryptic like "Dolby D 3/2.1", but at least it is a change you can note to verify dignal transfer.

Curiously, the Video section of the same status screen shows No Signal when I've got the component video connections made. Still trying to figure that one out.