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In the thread 'How to replace tweeters on Nautilus and Signature speakers' DM3000 Owner answered my question about replacing tweeters on the Matrix 801 S3 (and S2) as follows:
I had waited with replacing the tweeters until today. (And it still wasn't necessary, but the original tweeters where from dec. 1997 (as is, of course, my Matrix 801 S3) and the tweeters I had as a reserve from june 2006.
I also had to to the first three steps DM3000 Owner writes about, but there was no need for soldering. The original and the replacing tweeters had a small plug for the two cables and the plug can only be connected in one way. So it is automatically the right connection.
Probably on the S2 series it is different.
But on the S3 it's a piece of cake.
"I did a Matrix tweeter.
You can do it two ways. Both require removing the tweeter housing.
1) Remove the midrange driver.
2) Reach in and unscrew the tweeter housing from the top of the midrange chamber. If I remember correctly, the wires just undo with an interconnect.
3) Pull the tweeter housing out.
Now is where you have to assess your skills. If you are not comfortable, pack the housing up and send it to B&W for diaphragm replacement. About $100 plus shipping two ways.
If you have mechanical skills and are good at soldering you can replace the diaphragm yourself. About $30 for the diaphragm.
I am going off of memory here. Examine the housing carefully. The bottom of the bezel comes off, which then allows the grill to come off and the housing to slip off of the tweeter (or something like that, if you are good with mechanical items you can figure it out).
Now pull the tweeter diaphragm off of the front. Carefully compare it to the new one to determine the orientation and which wire goes to which post so that you reinstall it in phase. You may want to take a photo. Now use a soldering iron to remove the wires, and re-solder the wires to the new diaphragm the same way that they came off. I did not need to add any solder. Just touch the iron to the existing solder on the end of the wire and it will flow onto the new post. Hold it there without the iron and let it cool. You don’t want to add solder because the wire needs to fit through a small slot. Do the other wire and then put it back together again."
You can do it two ways. Both require removing the tweeter housing.
1) Remove the midrange driver.
2) Reach in and unscrew the tweeter housing from the top of the midrange chamber. If I remember correctly, the wires just undo with an interconnect.
3) Pull the tweeter housing out.
Now is where you have to assess your skills. If you are not comfortable, pack the housing up and send it to B&W for diaphragm replacement. About $100 plus shipping two ways.
If you have mechanical skills and are good at soldering you can replace the diaphragm yourself. About $30 for the diaphragm.
I am going off of memory here. Examine the housing carefully. The bottom of the bezel comes off, which then allows the grill to come off and the housing to slip off of the tweeter (or something like that, if you are good with mechanical items you can figure it out).
Now pull the tweeter diaphragm off of the front. Carefully compare it to the new one to determine the orientation and which wire goes to which post so that you reinstall it in phase. You may want to take a photo. Now use a soldering iron to remove the wires, and re-solder the wires to the new diaphragm the same way that they came off. I did not need to add any solder. Just touch the iron to the existing solder on the end of the wire and it will flow onto the new post. Hold it there without the iron and let it cool. You don’t want to add solder because the wire needs to fit through a small slot. Do the other wire and then put it back together again."
I had waited with replacing the tweeters until today. (And it still wasn't necessary, but the original tweeters where from dec. 1997 (as is, of course, my Matrix 801 S3) and the tweeters I had as a reserve from june 2006.
I also had to to the first three steps DM3000 Owner writes about, but there was no need for soldering. The original and the replacing tweeters had a small plug for the two cables and the plug can only be connected in one way. So it is automatically the right connection.
Probably on the S2 series it is different.
But on the S3 it's a piece of cake.