Installing spikes on 800D?

[Relentless]

I looked at the spike kits sitting in the corner for quite some time now. I am finally satisfied with the speakers position and I want to finally install the spikes.

Any tips on making this go easy?
Does the speaker have to be tipped on its side, a bottom plate removed then change out the wheels for spikes or can you just tilt it back and do the front 2 than forward to change out the rear pair?

thanks for any suggestions,

[jericho]

Good question, I would like to do the same with my speakers, but am a little afraid of tilting them back or forward when already two spikes under, seems a little dangerous to break them off

[RebelMan]

DO NOT tilt the 800D forward or backward, ONLY tilt to the left or right side. Use something soft like a quilt on top of carpet or on top of a rug that has purchase (a rubber backing). Use pillows to cushion the top portions of the cabinet and the Marlan head. Remove the roller wheels with the tools included in the spike kit and insert the spikes. Tilt the speaker back and adjust spikes to level. One person can do this but it's much easier with two.

[Relentless]

I will have to move them into the middle of the room to tilt them on there side. Once the spikes are installed moving them back to the original position is going to be difficult.

[RebelMan]

Mark the positions with tape, before spiking the speakers. If you are on carpet, use a large piece of cardboard as a sliding mechanism between the carpet and the soft material protecting the speaker. For hard surfaces use a heavy duty fabric in between the hard surface and the soft material for draging. Tight quarters require a little more improvising but it is doable.

[misterdoggy]

What is the surface.

Here are some pointers having done the 802D's

Used the screw in the back of the marlan head to tighten down before moving as this protects the speaker from the joustling.

If you have wood floors beware the slightest error can be fatal to the floor. I have many a hole to prove it.

One trick is to put the spikes on then into the cups, but beneath the cups put paper so that the 4 cups can "slide" to the place you want them. Then once in place pull the paper out one by one.

If you decide to use the rubber side, put paper under the four rubber feet and slide to the place again.

If you are on carpet, heaven help you. I used thick magazines and stuck the spikes into 4 magazines under each foot and slide the whole unit over to the position and carefully remove one side then the other putting th cups into place.

Its a lot of weight to full with and there are consequences to missing the mark on the floor and to the floor.

Ultimately, I found NO IMPROVEMENT with spikes, but the rollers were marking up my wood floors so I put the spikes on first, then chaged to the rubber feet side of which I am very hapy with.

[DM3000 Owner]

What is the surface.

Here are some pointers having done the 802D's

Used the screw in the back of the marlan head to tighten down before moving as this protects the speaker from the joustling.

If you have wood floors beware the slightest error can be fatal to the floor. I have many a hole to prove it.

One trick is to put the spikes on then into the cups, but beneath the cups put paper so that the 4 cups can "slide" to the place you want them. Then once in place pull the paper out one by one.

If you decide to use the rubber side, put paper under the four rubber feet and slide to the place again.

If you are on carpet, heaven help you. I used thick magazines and stuck the spikes into 4 magazines under each foot and slide the whole unit over to the position and carefully remove one side then the other putting th cups into place.

Its a lot of weight to full with and there are consequences to missing the mark on the floor and to the floor.

Ultimately, I found NO IMPROVEMENT with spikes, but the rollers were marking up my wood floors so I put the spikes on first, then chaged to the rubber feet side of which I am very hapy with.

As I was reading this I was thinking DO NOT USE SPIKES ON WOOD FLOORS!!
The rubber feet have friction and be used on all flooring besides carpet. I am on carpet and use the rollers. The speakers do not move at all and if I need to move them, it is relatively easy to do with the rollers.

[Relentless]

Thanks for the advice guys, I appreciate it.

This will be done on a carpet. I had figured with the weight of the speaker, once it is spiked moving them was going to be a nightmare.

That was good advice about the moving screw. I wonder if putting the styrofoam top on it when tipping it over will also work?

[misterdoggy]

As I was reading this I was thinking DO NOT USE SPIKES ON WOOD FLOORS!!
The rubber feet have friction and be used on all flooring besides carpet. I am on carpet and use the rollers. The speakers do not move at all and if I need to move them, it is relatively easy to do with the rollers.

I can't advise as I don't have the 800D's (but will one day

Another idea is to lean the speaker over to one side. Enough to get under the bottom like a mechanic gets under a car. Slide some thick books to keep it off the ground and leaned on to the side and un-install the rollers and install the spikes, then do the same for the other side.

This is what I did t install my spikes rather than laying the whole speaker down which gives better access, but displaces the speaker more than I would like to.

[RebelMan]

misterdoggy's situation was unfortunate. Spiking is not for everyone but it has acoustic advantages over non-spiking. Aside from the obvious transfer of resonant energy from the speaker to the floor, the degree of fine tuning it lends to level and aim the drivers towards/away from the prime seating location is unparalleled.

[misterdoggy]

misterdoggy's situation was unfortunate. Spiking is not for everyone but it has acoustic advantages over non-spiking. Aside from the obvious transfer of resonant energy from the speaker to the floor, the degree of fine tuning it lends to level and aim the drivers towards/away from the prime seating location is unparalleled.

Rebelman,

If you put paper underneath the rubber feet you have pinpoint accuracy for dialing in exact degree's both in leveling (which I use to point downwards to the sitting position) and inwards towards the sweet spot.

As for absorbing the bass, true there is just the point of the spike on the floor.

I have the 802's pointing down and in and the htm1d pointing up directly

I just did room correction with the meridian software and the sound is at a new level. Very Happy

Only thing might make me happier would be 800D's. I saw a pair of 801d's for sale in Germany in Piano Laquer Black. But I think when I step up to the next step it will be in the same cherrywood.

[Relentless]

Rebelman,

If you put paper underneath the rubber feet you have pinpoint accuracy for dialing in exact degree's both in leveling (which I use to point downwards to the sitting position) and inwards towards the sweet spot.

As for absorbing the bass, true there is just the point of the spike on the floor.

I have the 802's pointing down and in and the htm1d pointing up directly

For HT I can see the advantage of pointing the tweeters towards the sweet spot(s) but for 2ch wouldn't it be better for the speaker to be perfectly level?

[misterdoggy]

For HT I can see the advantage of pointing the tweeters towards the sweet spot(s) but for 2ch wouldn't it be better for the speaker to be perfectly level?

No I think they should be the same for both. Your sitting spot(s)