I know we have different taste when it comes to sound, and there are therefore nothing that's called "the best amp for B&W 703". But still, it would be interesting to hear what amps you have tried with 703 and to hear which you prefered and why.
Best amp for 703 you've tried
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I've really only heard the Rotel 1080 with the 703s and have been very happy. I know there are a lot of "better" amps out there, but I have absolutely no complaints about my 703 with the 1080.
Now, when I was deciding on whether I was going to buy the 703 or the 804s, I did listen to the 804s also with the 1080 which was a little improvement over the 703, but not enough to justify the price difference (for me at least). Also while listening to the 804s, I did listen to them with a Classe set-up. Perhaps it was because there was no way I was going to spend the money it would take to get into the Classe so I heard what I wanted to hear, but I really liked the Rotel sound better than the Classe (okay, I feel the whole forum coming to disagree with me!!
ops: :g> ). I would expect that would hold true with the 703 too, since I found them similar (though admittedly, not a good) as the 804s.
Also, don't get me wrong, if anyone has a Classe amp they want to donate to me, I'll take it, it still sounded great...Ted
"I've gone to this high school for seven and a half years - I'm no dummy." - Better Off Dead
opcorn:- Bottom
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I try 703s with : Harman Kardon 3480(2x120w/8ohm), Cambridge Audio 540R V2(2x100w/8ohm), Primare A30.2(2x120w/8ohm) and tube integrated amp Ming Da MC34-A(2x35w/8ohm, push-pull).
For electronic music Primare A30.2 work verry well but for acoustic music i like warm of tube amp.- Bottom
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I've tried the following (most in stores):
Thule Spirit IA150B-I owned this one and it worked fine. Is has a warm soundstage and has a bit of a laid back sound. Never bacame harsh or bright, but it was lacking in some areas.
Denon PMA-2000AE-I only listen to this for a short time. It was obvious to me that it was lacking power and didn't have control of the base.
NAD M3-Very open soundstage and had plenty of power. To me though, it the 703 became to bright and had too much treble.
LYNGDORF AUDIO SDAI2175-Very different amp. Neutral and with encredibel control in the bottom. The 703's never sounded bright with this amp, but it wasn't my style. It sounded cold, clinical and borrowing. It simply wasn't music in my ears.
Thule Spirit IA150B and THULE Spirit PA150B (biamping)-Compared to Thule IA150B alone, it had a more open midrange. Possible also a tighter bottom. Not a great difference though.
Thule Space IA350B-This is a powerful amp with 2*350w (8 ohm). This is the one I owne today. The midrange and treble are more open compared to the smaller IA150B which I had before. It also has a tighter bottom. Some say that IA350B compared to other amps in the same price is a bit closed in the top frequencies, but I'm not missing anything with the 703 when it comes to treble. Like IA150B it has a warm soundstage.
I'm quite happy with the Thule IA350B but I'm sure there are even better matches with the 703's.- Bottom
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I had previously tried my 703 with Rotel RMB1095, Musical Fidelity A3.2 Int Amp and Roksan Caspian M-Series 1 Monobloc setup. I think among the three setup I like Caspian M-Series 1 better. However, my favourite is with my new RB1092 amp setup partly I think it match perfectly with my Rotel HT setup.- Bottom
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The 703s are bright, clear speakers by nature... for me, it is best to pair with a slightly warm amp, such as McIntosh. This is commonly said of B&Ws in general, and the McIntosh/B&W pairing is quite common. Obviously an MC402 is overkill, but McIntosh's more affordable offerings should work well.- Bottom
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I agree, the 703s are bright and need an amp to balance this out. I never tried McIntosh. They are expensive and I don't like their look, but I still would like to check them out. Would McIntosh MA6500 (2 x 120w) be sufficient or is the are reason to move up to MA6900 (2 x 200w)?Originally posted by fatcatThe 703s are bright, clear speakers by nature... for me, it is best to pair with a slightly warm amp, such as McIntosh. This is commonly said of B&Ws in general, and the McIntosh/B&W pairing is quite common. Obviously an MC402 is overkill, but McIntosh's more affordable offerings should work well.- Bottom
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In Brazil, i use power Exaudi A5000HE for my 703 :T .
200 Wrms p/c 8 ohms, 60.000uf por canaleta. dual monoural.
My set- Bottom
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I have 703's with a MA6500. Enough power to rock the house and you'll get the sweatest (yet detailed) sound you can from the 703's. The MA6900 adds autoformers and EQ for an extra 1k$ - probably not worth it. However, I don't recommend the MA6300 since it doesn't have the same mac sound as the others.
The MA6900 will only be 200W on the 8-ohm tap. The 703's are almost 4-ohm speakers so the MA6500 gives you more than 120W on those.- Bottom
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I heard my 703's on a Bryston 4B SST, I also heard them through $30K worth of Krell, not sure of models but they were big, silver and sounded awesome. They were hooked up by a blue/black water hose size Audioquest cable, complete with batteries????, that reportedly cost as much as my speakers. Not to speak of speaker cables as that is a taboo topic, my point being is there has to be a price/quality point where you cannot hear a difference anymore and it is just for bragging rights, just like telling the "Guys" you have a Porche 911 turbo 4.
Kevin- Bottom
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I've heard that a few times about the 703s (being almost 4 ohm) - is that true? I've never seen an impedance curve for them. Is there one published anywhere?Originally posted by jim777The 703's are almost 4-ohm speakers so the MA6500 gives you more than 120W on those.
It doesn't really concern me too much, but I just got my 703s, and at present I'm powering them with a Rotel RX-1052 which seems to be delivering plenty o'power so far. But I haven't really cranked them yet
Bill- Bottom
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I have B&W CDM9nts,which although 703s predecessors,i believe there may be some similarities in efficiency of drive etc..
My last SJppa amps(very good current delivery but only 50w into 8ohm) sounded very good,but the 9s needed more power when driven at higher volumes.So i replaced them with a Musical Fidelity Trivista(350w into 8ohm),which sounds fantastic.Basically,i think B&W speakers,certainly 703 and upwards,need quite a lot of power otherwise they sound harsh.
I haven't heard any Macintosh amps unfortunately,but if they are as described i.e. slightly warmer,then they ought to cure the 703s slightly harsh high frequencies(i have demoed them whilst listening to new cd players).- Bottom
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I have CDM9NT speakers too and agree that they sound very similar to 703's.
I drive my speakers with a Rotel RB-1080 amp (200 watts into 8 ohms) and wasn't really satisfied with the sound until I acquired an LFD DAC3 external DAC (LFD is a boutique hi-fi manufacturer from England). The new DAC gives me the richness that I was missing. So the lesson I have learnt is that the source is pretty important.
I would also like to audition a more powerful amp like the Rotel RB-1090 (380 watts) or the RB-1092 (500 watts) although opinions in this forum are divided on whether the extra power is really necessary.
Nigel.- Bottom
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703
I´m going to buy a pair of 703´s in a few months, I took my gear to the shop, because I was almost 110% sure I would have to upgrade
, but then i had a real shock :E ! I´m using a Sony 1070qs with the Sony 9000es power amp, and I compaired them to Thule, nad and Classe! My Sony sounded more balanced and clean than the Thule and the NAD :E ! The classe was better was many ways, but me and the sales guy couldn´t believe how well the Sony performed :E ! Don´t take me wrong, I am and always have been a Sony fan, and being a fan doesn´t mean that I think everything that Sony does is good, like many other companies, every now and then all companies produce something good!
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Try a Bel Canto S300 integrated, S300, or better a pair of M300s or REF1000s, stunning with B&W speakers. Just got the REF1000s hooked up to my 803Ds and I'm astounded. I previously had a rotel 1075 and later Arcam FMJ P1s, the Bel Cantos are a league above. I suspect Classes are better but not by a huge amount.- Bottom
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Actually, according to this source impedance dips as low as 2.8ohms at 100Hz. See measurements here: http://www.ultimateavmag.com/speaker...bw/index4.htmlI've heard that a few times about the 703s (being almost 4 ohm) - is that true? I've never seen an impedance curve for them.
I was surprised...I guess no tube amplification for me :-)- Bottom
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has anybody tried marsh amps . i currently use (2) 1075's with the front three 703's plus matching center bi amped and the other 4 channels for the surrounds. i,d like to run just my 703's on a marsh 400s. any thoughts ??? I also think the 703 with the rotel amps are to bright- Bottom
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I hope this isn't a hi-jack, but I'm really glad I found this forum and thread. I'm a newbie here, but have had 703s for a few years. Most of the time I enjoy them--especially while listening to jazz. However, as others have descibed, I've found them a little lacking in bass at times and downright harsh at other times.
From other discussions, I realize some of it may be the cd recording and some of it is my living room and the brightness of the wood floors. But, after reading all of your good input, I'm wondering if my problem is that I don't have the best match of equipment. Here's what I've got:
Music Fidelity 3.2 integrated
Nordost cables & interconnects
Rotel CD changer
703s
I stopped in at a few local hi-fi shops. One immediately wanted to push me into Paradigm Signature Speakers. (They do sound nice, but not where I wanted to go.) Another thought I needed a sub to offset the brightness of the room. Similar to the discussion on this forum, the third shop suggested that the equipment combo might not be best. They didn't carry B&W, but were suggesting a warmer amp and cables based on B&W's reputation. They suggested that I demo Creek amps, which they carry.
Before I do that, I thought I'd ask for your recommendations. Do you agree it's the equipment mix? Assuming that's a yes and I can find $2000-$2500 of cash/trade-in, what amps would you recommend I demo?- Bottom
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I would first look to your room as the culprit - better amplification can improve things, but if your room is at fault changing amps won't really fix the underlying problem.
Having said that, I spent quite a bit of time auditioning a McIntosh integrated (MA6300) and a Simaudio integrated (Moon i5.3) with 703s in my dealer's treated listening room. They both were better than my current amplification (Rotel RB-1070) but not enough to make me think I just had to ditch the Rotel and buy one of these.
I did a write-up comparing the Sim & Mc amps here a while back, and choosing which was better was really tough. They were certainly different, with the McIntosh possibly being slightly more musical, but the simaudio seeming to extract a little more detail in certain music. I would really have loved either one of them, but as I said, the Rotel isn't so bad in comparison, and I'm comfortable sticking with it for now.
But definitely, audition something from McIntosh. Many people swear by the B&W +McIntosh combo. And if you can, try the Simaudio - it's not as well known, but they make some superb electronics.
Of course, many people also swear by Classe - pricey, but certainly well matched to B&W and worth a listen if you can spring that much money.- Bottom
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I used Roksan Kandy MKIII with 703's. I demoed Rotel (1070) and Roksan at the same time. I found Rotel is a very colorful and enjoyable, but if the objective is listening pure music without a coloration, Roksan is the answer. I am still driving 804 s with Roksan Kandy MKIII and an additional Roksan power.- Bottom
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Thanks for your replies so far. I'm hoping to make some improvements to the room acoustics as part of a redo of the room.
Unfortunately, Mcintosh, Simaudio nor Roksan are available locally. Have you all been in this situation? Did you pack your speakers and travel to the shops with the preferred electronics to demo? I've had one store within a reasonable distance tell me that Creek is a warm amp and will help. Anyone have experience with their integrateds?
I've also had two shops suggest audioquest cables and inter-connects. Thoughts?- Bottom
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Oh man, this is an interesting question.
First of all I've never really had the 703 on an amplifier and didn't like it. They all have advantages and shortcomings.
Rotel RB-1080 - (8/10) Extremely nice sounding amplifier. Very detailed and controlled, very pleasant to listen to just about anything. However, it was a bit too polite overall for my liking. Was very tight but didn't have a clinical clean sound that I as looking for.
H||H V800 - (9.5/10) I tried this amp just out of sheer curiosity. My dad had purchased about a dozen back in the early '80s sometimes (if he recalled correctly sometimes around '83) for PA use with first his home built PA rig (JBL, Altec Lansing, & EV) and then later to power Meyer MSL-3. After testing the amplifier on a dummy load and the oscilloscope for any problems, which I found and fixed by recapping the amplifier I tried them on my 703. From the first watt it was pure enjoyment. The amplifier is clean, the dynamics are huge, the space between notes was black silky and smooth. Holly Cole's voice will make the hair on your neck stand up. The amplifiers sound is very dry and clinical however, I guess you could say it is much less musical than the RB-1080. But, my personal listening preference prefers a very exact unforgiving sound. The only major draw back for me was the casing of the amplifier was dirty, beaten up, and looked a bit ugly with comparison to my other equipment. So, right now this amplifier is in pieces and being resurrected with a toroid transformer, cleaned boards, new cabling, and better XLR & Speaker connections. I'm also in a debate of stripping the boards and having them manufactured using higher quality boards and re assembled with new components with tighter tolerances.
H||H VX-450 - (9.25/10) Very similar to the V800. Less headroom & dyanamics than the V800, but also sounds a bit more musical. The input and driver sections are exactly the same as the V800 (or almost) but the output MOS-FETS are 2SK176 instead of the 2SK135 used in the V800.
Kyocera R-851 - (7/10) - Very interesting little integrated amplifier. My dad purchased this with his orginal B&W DM330i speakers. Up until recently I've been using it as a second system with the DM330i. But it is very clean, very warm, and a fun amplifier to listen to. It has MOS-FET 2SK272 (Toshiba vs Hitachi in the HH Amps) transistors int he output. Dynamics were a little lacking mostly because of the underpowered status. (100 Watts vs 400 Watts)
QSC MX-1500a - (8/10) Pro-Amps, a lot of things can be said about professional audio amplifiers as home audio amplifiers. I mostly was just curious. They definatly can get the job done, but at other expenses. Both the MX-1500a & the Series III sounded very similar. But, the MX-1500a had better bass control and a slight brighter top end, which I liked. Still liked the Rotel & HH better, but very good none the less.
QSC Series III 3500 - (7/10) -See above.
Basically, what you can get out of this is that different amplifiers can sound and act differently. I've always wanted to check out Classe & Bryston on my speakers in my home. But, the opportunity has never presented it self. I've head both of these amplifiers along with Arcam & NAD on 703 when I was demoing mine and others. But, you can only really rate an amplifier after hours of listening to it.
Anyway, good luck with your search.-Joe- Bottom
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I've never tried Kimber cables but I've always wanted to. I use Straightwire and Nordost and make my own now a days. I've actually got some cheap cables on order from BlueJean Cables. They aren't anything fancy pants but they look good for the price.Originally posted by altanpsxCreek is a very good amp. Very detailed and warm, for my self little bit colorfull. But I think you give it a try. For cables Kimber !!-Joe- Bottom
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I use their 10 guage wires with the locking banana plugs and they are so good that I don't even consider changing them at this point.Originally posted by joetamaI've actually got some cheap cables on order from BlueJean Cables. They aren't anything fancy pants but they look good for the price.- Bottom
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I'm really interested in their locking banana plugs....Originally posted by beden1I use their 10 guage wires with the locking banana plugs and they are so good that I don't even consider changing them at this point.
My VX-450 isn't very spade friendly, and they look good and are super cheap.-Joe- Bottom
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I forget what they cost, but they were reasonable. I got the ones that you put together yourself, as opposed to having them pre-installed on the speaker wires.Originally posted by joetamaI'm really interested in their locking banana plugs....
My VX-450 isn't very spade friendly, and they look good and are super cheap.
They are very good quality and fit real snug after tightening.
Their 12 guage wire is very good too. I use these for my surrounds. The wires are dense and insulated very well.- Bottom
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$5.25/pair.... Stupid cheap, I was worried they would be junk.Originally posted by beden1I forget what they cost, but they were reasonable. I got the ones that you put together yourself, as opposed to having them pre-installed on the speaker wires.
They are very good quality and fit real snug after tightening.
Their 12 guage wire is very good too. I use these for my surrounds. The wires are dense and insulated very well.-Joe- Bottom
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Got my 703's paired with a McIntosh MA6900. I upgraded from a NAD HT receiver and I'm very pleased with the result, the difference was significant. One thing is for sure although I may change/upgrade the speakers at some point I'll be keeping the Mac for a long time to come.- Bottom
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I have read that ICE amps are too bright, which would really hurt the sound of the 703s that already tend to be on the bright side.Originally posted by IggurkHello !
Try ICE Power amps with your 703 (min 250W), these kind of amps are for me the best in term of price/quality I've ever eared on mine.- Bottom
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by csuzorI spent some time comparing 704 / 703 / 804S during a serious listening session. I was looking to either buy the 703 (and use my 704 as surrounds), or an amp (I drove home with the RSP1068 + RMB1075, see post Rotel section). My results:
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by ParsonskI was talking to my local dealer about the differences between the 703's and the 804's, when our conversation changed to amplifiers. My original plan was to buy a set of 703's with the Rotel rb-1080....a nice match. The speakers I’ve always wanted are the 804's, I love the looks, the sound everything...-
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by bowlmanAs you can see I am new to this site.
I have the upgrade blues. I have went from 705s to 703s..Am trying to figure out my next step.Should I go to the 804s or the 803s?? The Ds are out of my price range. I have noticed alot of you bypassed the 703s for the 804s,for a $1000.00 more were...-
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by jim777Me again asking some questions before returning a 3rd time to my dealer without deciding what to buy yet... To narrow down my options again, I'd like to know if somebody tried the McIntosh MA6500 or MA6900 integrated amp on the B&W 703 , Nautilus 804 or 804S ?
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by altanpsxWhat do you think about driving 804s with a Classe Cap-2100. I demoed this amplifier with 802d and it was amazing. It was driving 802d smoothly. By any chance any of you use this amp. , and your thought about the combo??-
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