Home theater dilema

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Jeff Hartford
    Member
    • Jul 2003
    • 53

    Home theater dilema

    Just pieced together a home theater system (Rotel RSP-985/RMB-1095, NHT VT-2.4/VS-2.4's center/surrounds all pre-owned but mint on the aftermarket) hope to pick up a Denon 2900. My spouse now tells me if anything shows, i.e. wires, components, they are history. Sort of like taking a pound of flesh but not drawing blood. I know there are terrific rack set ups, but she wants everything underneath, in built in closed cabinets. Tried to convey to her the folly of putting a thousand watt amp in a closed space but she is not budging. If the cabinet is vented on the side with a silent fan (4 or 5 "), would that be adequate? I have talked to some people who suggested simple O2 free 12G wire to the fronts. Will be biamping with a SA-3 from NHT so in effect two sets of 12G wire to each speaker. Regarding connectors- many of the terminators are compression, not soldered. Is it recommended to solder them anyway? Or just "tin" the tips and use bare tips? The run to the fronts will be about 15', the rears closer to 25. Since I had thought about getting bulk wire, I was going to use this all around. Anythoughts on heavier wire to the biamped low frequency drivers? Do not wish to offend the esoteric wire guys, but am not in a position to put hundreds into wires. I also realize Cat cables is an active support source in this forum; do they carry more modest priced interconnects as well as the no doubt high end equipment? Thanks for the info.

    Jeff
  • Lex
    Moderator Emeritus
    • Apr 2001
    • 27461

    #2
    Jeff, this is a delimma that several of our members have faced. I even read where one had to sacrifice his entire setup with marriage. (What was he thinking? LOL)

    I've got a cabinet vent trick over on cablesynergy.com, the front end to another forum I don't mention much here, thecableforum.com. (pet project of mine) Basically replacing the back on a standard cabinet to open it completely up. Now, that doesn't fix the front. If you do seal the front, I'd recommend some kind of fan to push the air out the back, or to draw it in.

    Yes, I do have some affordable interconnect options at CAT. In fact, I've got plans for another brand of mine soon that will also fit the budget minded. CableCats were just introduced at CAT. 50.00 for a 1 meter pair. Without the decorative cover, I can get cheaper than that on them even. They are nice budget cables. Nothing cheap about em'. Email me and we can discuss your needs and what I can offer hopefully within budget. Floor samples, that sort of thing even. (Some of them may really be in the floor, lol.)

    Lex




    Cable Guy DVD Collection
    Doug
    "I'm out there Jerry, and I'm loving every minute of it!" - Kramer

    Comment

    • Jeff Hartford
      Member
      • Jul 2003
      • 53

      #3
      Lex (or is it Doug?)-

      Thanks for the continued interest. The problem with the built in cabinet is that it is flush against the wall. The side that faces the corner is out of sight, and I thought, as you suggested that I could cut out for a 4 or 5" fan. Do you know wher I could find one that was silent? Figure I could hook it to a switched outlet on the pre/pro, but that would not vent when things were still hot after a shutdown. As far as cables, I understand you are terrific with working within a budget. People at the AVS forum had suggested Dayton audio stuff from partsexpress. I am sure that while it is likely reasonable quality, it in no way competes with your products. I do not mention that to offend you, just to let you know what I have seen and had been directed towards.

      As you know, I need an RCA to 25DB cable. I know it was a pain for you and apparently a few people make it. That will connect my soon to be acquired Denon 2900 (need a uni player as only one way to input signals to the 985, as you know). Also need cables to go from the pre to an NHT sub amp, than to pass through to the power amp. Also need cables from the pre to the center and surround(s) channels on the power amp (RMB-1095). Finally plugged it together. Even with a suck Kenwood CD player and crap Monster cable Navaho white (?18G???), and marginal interconnects, it still sounded decent. Can imagine a better gauge speaker wire, better interconnect cables with a good CD audio section (or better yet SACD) will really sound great. I had a CD player redone by Frank Van Alstine (are you familiar) that was so much more open, but was thrown out (along with an HK pro tuner) by the wife and kids when they cleaned out the basement and garage. Appreciate any thoughts you might have, as I hear you are the greatest guy on earth.....

      Jeff

      Comment

      • Lex
        Moderator Emeritus
        • Apr 2001
        • 27461

        #4
        Actually, it's Lex and Doug. sort of like cybel, lol. Lex is nickname.

        Well, your cabinet situation is a challenge. Maybe one of the other guys has a good suggestion. You are going to have to have an exit for the air away from the fan. top to bottom, or bottom to top one.

        Well, Parts Express is a sponsor of ours here, if their cables suite your budget, then hey, go for them! Just be sure to use the click through add at the top of our site when you buy.

        We can talk more on specific requirements via email if you like, I think I can stay a bit more focused on the issues that way.

        Greatest guy on earth? :LOL: One of the top 3 maybe. haha. Hey, if I am so great how come I don't have a girlfriend. :evil: Maybe my speakers are to big. 8)

        Lex
        Doug
        "I'm out there Jerry, and I'm loving every minute of it!" - Kramer

        Comment

        • clm811
          Junior Member
          • Nov 2002
          • 24

          #5
          Jeff,
          While I don't have any helpful hints on cabinetry, I'd like to say:
          1) I've found 12v muffin fan(s) with a(ratshack)variable dc supply is nice.
          2) Have had the DVD2900 for a month, and I LOVE it (good choice)!
          3) I had hifi gear before we married. She later gave me a choice: HER or the HIFI... It's awful quiet around here lately(I do miss that girl)! ;-) -cm
          Charles Moore

          Comment

          • David Meek
            Moderator Emeritus
            • Aug 2000
            • 8938

            #6
            Jeff, hi and welcome to The Guide. Yes, fans are a good option for in-cabinet ventilation. I'd recommend a push/pull configuration if at all possible to promote the highest amount of airflow over the amp, ie. one fan pulling air out of the cabinet and on the opposite side, a fan pushing air in. Be sure to go with a very quiet fan as the noise could be distracting if too loud. Also, consider ducting the exhaust side out away from the room or you could wind up with a warm theater.

            Another fan option is a plate-type unit. It consists of a flat surface with several fans mounted on it pointing up (or down), and it sits on top of (or below) your amp pushing air away from the unit. These require a bit more space above or below the unit being cooled to work properly than you would need with a push/pull setup.

            As always, just my 2 cents. Good luck.




            David - HTGuide flunky
            Our "Theater"
            Our DVDs on DVD Tracker

            .

            David - Trigger-happy HTGuide Admin

            Comment

            • Andrew Pratt
              Moderator Emeritus
              • Aug 2000
              • 16507

              #7
              Goto a good computer store (one that custom builds them) and talk to them about what you're trying to do. They should have a variety of affordable quiet fans that will run off 12 volt lines. You can then buy a wall adapter that has a variable voltage switch on it from places like wal-mart and radio shack. Snip the end of the wall adapter and fasten it to the fan...now by adjusting the voltage to the fan you can vary the speed somewhat...don't push to much current to it or to low or it might not last long but plus or minus a few volts won't harm it at all. You might need a couple of these fans though with ideally one on the bottom sucking in cold air and one at the top blowing the hot air out (remember hot air rises)




              Comment

              • Digital Bob
                Member
                • Aug 2000
                • 56

                #8
                Jeff,

                First let me say welcome aboard. As for your cooling issue, I can offer some advice that is slightly different than others here (I know, what's new right? )

                I find fans a bit of a "band aid" solution.... at best. It's not that they don't work at all, but that 9 times out of 10 you can get better results just by designing the layout and cabinet correctly.

                You need to create a convenction "chimney" within your cabinet. Cool air in at the bottom and warm air out at the top. If you don't do that than the best fans will only gain you moderate benefits, if any. Here is what I suggest...

                1) Create your cool air intake vent by either a) physically venting [ie drilling holes in] the bottom of the cabinet and allowing air to enter under the overhang of the toe-kick or b) by making a "plug" for the bottom rack position out of grill cloth and wooden frame so the air can pass through easily.

                2) Create the "chimney" inside the cabinet by shortening the backs of all the shelves and/or venting them [ie drilling holes in] underneath the gear.

                3) Create your warm air exhaust vent by a) once again creating a "plug" that takes up a rack space and allows air to pass or b) venting the actual top of the cabinet with holes since they seldom show because of height and the crown trims on most cabinets.

                I know this may sound like "surgery" to some and I suppose it is, but over the years I have found this works better than just fans in almost every single case. Further, I have even had cases where, when done right, it kept the gear cooler than removing the entire back of the cabinet. The trick is to create that convention effect and let nature do the rest.



                I hope this helps and good luck,

                dB

                PS: Oh, where fans DO work well is when entrance and exit vents are not quite large enough [drilled small or few holes instead of "plugs"]. In these cases a fan on the warm air exit vent can help to increase volume of air flow. But without the good design to start, the fan doesn't typically help much.




                dB
                dB

                Comment

                • Jeff Hartford
                  Member
                  • Jul 2003
                  • 53

                  #9

                  Comment

                  • Jeff Hartford
                    Member
                    • Jul 2003
                    • 53

                    #10
                    Bob-

                    Thanks for the well thought out reply. I am somewhat limited in what drilling I do, if I do not want my wife drilling a hole in my head. I certainly appreciate the convection concept. Could drill underneath the components, but am not sure will be easy to drill entry access. Could put a fan on the upper level ( about 3 feet high, that closed off with a space for the TV) venting out to the side. Have seen a 41/2" AC fan in partsexpress that looks like it could create a draft. Again thanks for the insight. Also thanks to Andrew and David for the flurry of posts and suggestions. Would you definitely use a DC fan rather than an AC one? Figured could plug the fan into a switched outlet on the RSP-985.

                    Jeff

                    Comment

                    • med
                      Junior Member
                      • Jul 2003
                      • 23

                      #11
                      As Andrew mentioned, a computer store would be a great place to look for fans. There is quite a bit available, but a large number of them are probably too loud for home theatre uses. Some fans now are starting to come with potentiometers on them to regulate the voltage to change speeds, negating the need for a switching power supply.

                      If you're really serious, you can dig around PC modding sites, such as www.overclockers.com.au and www.sharkyexterme.com and you may be able to find info such as how much air particular fans move and how loud they are.

                      Two companies I know that make PC fans in this category are Vantec, and Thermaltake.

                      I'd suggest getting one of the larger ones (at LEAST 80mm, preferably 120mm) as they can move the same amount of air as the small ones, but with a lot less RPMs, and less noise.

                      Hope this helps.

                      Matt

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      😀
                      😂
                      🥰
                      😘
                      🤢
                      😎
                      😞
                      😡
                      👍
                      👎
                      Searching...Please wait.
                      An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

                      Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                      An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

                      Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                      An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
                      There are no results that meet this criteria.
                      Search Result for "|||"