B&W 703 - Spikes worth it?

[joetama]

I currently have B&W 703 and I love them.

However, I am looking to tweak the most potential out of them as possible. I have a wood floor in my apartment and have used the rubber feet to level them. However, I was wondering would there be much improvment to getting a base and using the spikes? Also, is there any benifit to using aftermarket bases with out rigger?

What are some brands or companies that make these products?

Thanks,

Joe

[wkhanna]

From my experience, and having hardwood floors in our house, I would wager that you get a surprising increase in bass when you ‘anchor’ your 703's with some brass points.

[NonSense]

If you like your HW floors, buy Soundcare Superspikes. You won't regret it.

[joetama]

Cool... I will have to look into getting some of those...

Any other options?

[george_k]

I'd add an area rug as well, my floors are ceramic so I added 6'x7' area rug to tame some of those reflections.

It resulted in an noticeable improvement...try it for yourself and see you could always return the rug for a refund if your not happy with the result :-)

[joetama]

I do need to get a rug...

That has been something in the works for a while....

[wkhanna]

Yes! Definitely get a rug!
A thick rug if you can, and get a rug pad to put under it.
It was all a big help in my room with hardwood floors and plaster lath walls.

[joetama]

Yes! Definitely get a rug!
A thick rug if you can, and get a rug pad to put under it.
It was all a big help in my room with hardwood floors and plaster lath walls.

My buddies grand dad owns a carpet cleaning company, so he gets all of these big rolls of left over carpet that people don't want. I'm going over sometime to pick out what I want and he is just going to let me have it. Then for like $20 there is a place he knows of that will sew a trim on the outside so that it looks like a rug.

I am pretty excited getting pretty much whatever size rug I want for $20... :T

[Chris D]

Cool...

[joetama]

INdeed...

[dknightd]

I think you really have to try it to find out.
Some people can't hear a difference between spikes and rubber feet.
Some poeple think one or the other sounds better.
I think it depends on the floor - sometimes it is best to couple the
speakers to it with spikes, sometimes it is better to isolate with rubber feet.
Not all wood floors are the same.

[joetama]

Well, I went to Lowes last night and got a level and a degree meter. I have always thought the 703s sounded a lot tighter and cleaner if you have them "tilt" back just a touch.

So, with 1.5 degrees tilt back, I tried to level the 'front' side of the loudspeaker. I discovered that there is almost a 2 degree slope in my floor where one of my speakers sits!!!

SO after shimming and playing around I finally got it level. This does make a difference. I do want to look into those SuperSpikes but I need to make sure that I can adjust everything level with them, I would like to forget about the stupid shims. :woot: for an old apartment...

[zmanbands]

You sound serious.

Take a look at mapleshade products. google mapleshade. I would not be too quick to jump on superspikes. How about the spikes that came with the speakers with a penny under each for a start just to hear the difference?

[Russ L]

Concrete Patio square slab or marble slab plus spikes for tight bass. My spikes go thru wall to wall and anchor in concrete floor. The bass is well defined.

[joetama]

I'll have to try that Penny thing...

Russ, I would image that the bass is well defined you have your speakers anchored in concrete...

[zmanbands]

Mapleshade on anchoring Speakers to Concrete

FWIW. I have no experience with speakers spiked to concrete. My foor is carpet over fiberboard. I'm in the process of getting maple stands spiked to the floor via brass cone spikes and the speakers spiked to the maple stand with brass drain cones. Anyway here is what mapleshade has to say about concrete. "A massive maple base with screw-in Heavyfeet is an excellent upgrade for any floorstanding speaker. That’s because 2" or 4" solid maple is a much better sink for vibration than 1⁄2" pine or plywood planking—and incomparably better than concrete slab flooring. Concrete kills the bass and its nasty resonances smear the midrange and treble of your speakers. The cure is simple: a Maple Floorstander Plinth locked rigidly via Heavyfeet to the slab floor (through carpet, if necessary). This creates, in effect, an artificial wooden floor that eliminates the concrete’s sonic toxicity. Coupling your speaker to the Maple Plinth via three Triplepoints or Heavyfeet doubles the good effect of the maple. You’ll love the newfound bass, the much clearer midrange and the surprisingly extended treble."

[Russ L]

FWIW. I have no experience with speakers spiked to concrete. My foor is carpet over fiberboard. I'm in the process of getting maple stands spiked to the floor via brass cone spikes and the speakers spiked to the maple stand with brass drain cones. Anyway here is what mapleshade has to say about concrete. "A massive maple base with screw-in Heavyfeet is an excellent upgrade for any floorstanding speaker. That’s because 2" or 4" solid maple is a much better sink for vibration than 1?2" pine or plywood planking—and incomparably better than concrete slab flooring. Concrete kills the bass and its nasty resonances smear the midrange and treble of your speakers. The cure is simple: a Maple Floorstander Plinth locked rigidly via Heavyfeet to the slab floor (through carpet, if necessary). This creates, in effect, an artificial wooden floor that eliminates the concrete’s sonic toxicity. Coupling your speaker to the Maple Plinth via three Triplepoints or Heavyfeet doubles the good effect of the maple. You’ll love the newfound bass, the much clearer midrange and the surprisingly extended treble."

Mapleshade's advice runs counter to accepted wisdom given by my B&W dealer and other sources as well. I haven't noticed any smearing of the highs or mids. Altho often we only notice a sound problem when its removed. Gives me an excuse to experiment and see if rubber feet lessen the alleged smearing. :scratchhead: I know that wood flooring is better than bare concrete for creating a live sound by using the reflections to advantage. In combination with acoustically treating the walls and corners. Regards, Russ

[RobP]

Here is an article on the subject, the author has some interesting thoughts and ideas.

http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/cones/speak.html

[joetama]

Interesting read there...

[Russ L]

I swapped out the spikes through wall to wall into my concrete floor. Replaced them with the rubber feet B&W supplies ontop of the wall to wall carpeting. The mids and highs are much better. Mapleshade says spikes into concrete floors colour the mids and highs but thats too mild a term. Deaden is more appropriate. So much for accepted wisdom from my B&W dealer. THX for the heads up zmanbands... I owe you one Regards, Russ

[zmanbands]

Anytime for a Canadian Neighbor

Thanks for the feedback.