It's time for a Statement announcing my latest project..

[KorbenDallas]

I'd like to discuss the possibility of configuring the Statement family for bi-amping; the full, mini, and center offerings. It appears as though it is as simple as having the woofer section on a set of binding posts and having upper section on their own. Parts Express sells bi-amping terminal blocks that have two sets of binding posts with bridge clips for traditional powering, so there is potential to have this option.

Is this a good idea?

[Jim Holtz]

I'd like to discuss the possibility of configuring the Statement family for bi-amping; the full, mini, and center offerings. It appears as though it is as simple as having the woofer section on a set of binding posts and having upper section on their own. Parts Express sells bi-amping terminal blocks that have two sets of binding posts with bridge clips for traditional powering, so there is potential to have this option.

Is this a good idea?

You're exactly correct about bi-amping. It's as simple as wiring the woofer section to one set of binding posts and the mid/ribbon section to another.

I've always thought bi-wiring was a waste but bi-amping can have some benefits if you have a smaller amps or want to use a tube amp for the top end etc. while still using a stiff SS amp on the bass. However, rates of gain must be closely matched for it to work.

I'm not sure you would hear an audible benefit with a strong SS amp, however. It's easy to wire the Statements to find out if you want to play.

Jim

[Coconutout]

from my experience the statements do not match well with a tube amp. with the tube amp i had, the statements were way too revealing in their distortion. I think an interesting combination would be a mosfet for highs and a very powerful ss for the lows. i'm currently using a mosfet and have a nad 2200- a very 'bassy' amp. infact im kinda interested in doing this myself. wouldn't I have to have a preamp with 3 outputs since im using a subwoofer? also could there be an external crossover before the amps so that they're being fed only what they need thus making the amps more efficient?

[Jim Holtz]

from my experience the statements do not match well with a tube amp. with the tube amp i had, the statements were way too revealing in their distortion. I think an interesting combination would be a mosfet for highs and a very powerful ss for the lows. i'm currently using a mosfet and have a nad 2200- a very 'bassy' amp. infact im kinda interested in doing this myself. wouldn't I have to have a preamp with 3 outputs since im using a subwoofer? also could there be an external crossover before the amps so that they're being fed only what they need thus making the amps more efficient?

Hi Coconutout,

I think it really depends on the tube amp. There are some that are uber expensive but also sound very good and would probably work quite well with the Statements. I'm more of a SS amp person myself so I've not tried it but I think Fred T. has.

Essentially, to set the crossover up to accept dual binding posts for bi-amping, simply split the bind posts attachment wires for the bass portion of the crossover and attach them to their own binding posts. Now you can run separate amps for the bass a mid/ribbon sections. The only caution is that the rate of gain should be matched for both amps.

You'll need Y interconnects to come off the preamp so both amps will receive the same signal. An active crossover isn't required or desired.

Jim

[Coconutout]

tangband has different version of w4 drivers. i would say upgraded. different in cosmetic and upgraded sq wise. cosmetically, it's got more complex looking basket now, and it's lighter, the connector plate is black. and sound wise, i can swear that it's even better than the ones i bought last year because i just replaced one of them after finding a small blemish on it and now it sounds as though i've done a minor upgrade to my component. say, upgrading an interconnect or better tubes in my preamp for example. i'm going ahead and ordering 3 more of these suckers even tho rest of my drivers are flawless. also, if i wanted to convert my statements to sealed, would i have to add more polyfil? mine's already lined up with owen corning and the ports are going to be plugged up and filled with sand on the bottom.

[Jed]

tangband has different version of w4 drivers. i would say upgraded. different in cosmetic and upgraded sq wise. cosmetically, it's got more complex looking basket now, and it's lighter, the connector plate is black..

This is concerning because they may measure differently and considering how many projects around here use this mid I'm kinda pissed because now I'll have to order a bunch to confirm the specs are exactly the same as the last batch. TB needs better manufacturing tolerances because they are constantly doing this to not just the TB W4 1337, its ALL their drivers. See my post about the bamboo cone W4 in another thread. I'm sorry but if ANYTHING changes about the driver, like it's basket, etc- the model number should change to reflect that fact.

[Coconutout]

from what i hear W4 has become quite a popular driver now. so hopefully it's an UPGRADE, not downgrade? the cone surrounds are different, too. the new one has a glossy black ring in the inner edge. since the cone surround is different, the sound's definitely affected.

and also i just got done sealing up my statements. however, i'm needing a little suggestion on what i should put in there to fill up the volume. because the thing with my statements is that my top woofer is mounted rather far below the top of the cabinet- about 15" to the center of the driver from the top. and about 18" from the bottom of the cabinet to center of bottom woofer. so i can only fill up about 10" of sand before getting too close to the bottom woofer. and i'm not about to hack up the cabinet that i took so long to finish. what shall i do?

[Jim Holtz]

This is concerning because they may measure differently and considering how many projects around here use this mid I'm kinda pissed because now I'll have to order a bunch to confirm the specs are exactly the same as the last batch. TB needs better manufacturing tolerances because they are constantly doing this to not just the TB W4 1337, its ALL their drivers. See my post about the bamboo cone W4 in another thread. I'm sorry but if ANYTHING changes about the driver, like it's basket, etc- the model number should change to reflect that fact.

Hi Jed,

Time will tell but my guess is, they're just offering it in a truncated frame too. I wouldn't get too upset yet.

PE and Tangband both show the round frame version.

Jim

[Jed]

Would anyone be willing to send me a pair of the new W4s so I can confirm they are the same as the old ones? I'll take FR, IMP, and distortion measurements in one of my speaker boxes and compare it to last years model. After I'm done I'll send it back to you.

Jed

[CupCak3]

Would anyone be willing to send me a pair of the new W4s so I can confirm they are the same as the old ones? I'll take FR, IMP, and distortion measurements in one of my speaker boxes and compare it to last years model. After I'm done I'll send it back to you.

Jed

I'm ordering drivers this week. I can shoot you over a pair when I get them in. PM me your info.

Regards,
Drew

[Mazeroth]

Thanks for doing this, Drew. Will help a bunch of us out.

[Jed]

I'm ordering drivers this week. I can shoot you over a pair when I get them in. PM me your info.

Regards,
Drew

Thanks Drew,

PoorboyMike offered to send me out a pair already so I'll let you all know the results next weekend or at the earliest I can. There's more info in the "Tangband Thread."

Jed

[NateTTU]

Well, I'm getting further and further along with the build and hope to have something in a semi "playable" state tomorrow. I can't wait to finally hear something!

Jed,

I will be looking forward to your conclusions about the new W4 as I ordered 5 of them back in January and received the old type. However, I purchased the rest of the order, 2 more, last month and received the new batch of W4s. If its a huge change then hopefully a fix will come along, but if its nothing big I won't worry about it as I have all the pieces now and just want to finish putting them together.

Nate

[KorbenDallas]

Well, I'm getting further and further along with the build and hope to have something in a semi "playable" state tomorrow. I can't wait to finally hear something!

Jed,

I will be looking forward to your conclusions about the new W4 as I ordered 5 of them back in January and received the old type. However, I purchased the rest of the order, 2 more, last month and received the new batch of W4s. If its a huge change then hopefully a fix will come along, but if its nothing big I won't worry about it as I have all the pieces now and just want to finish putting them together.

Nate

Nate,

What website did you order the 2 additional drivers from?

[NateTTU]

Nate,

What website did you order the 2 additional drivers from?

I ordered all my parts, except ribbon tweeters and binding posts, from PE. One order was in January and the last order was made on March 18th. So at least they must have made the switch to the newer drivers in mid March.

[NateTTU]

Sweet!!! Oh sweet success, the center is working and man is it clear! Currently it isn't even stuffed yet so I imagine it will sound better when its finished, but its sounds incredibly detailed and clear. Just one question, when can I crank it up? Right now I have it hooked to a Emotiva combo and its running at level 40. I want to take it easy while it breaks in, but I would like to know about when I can turn it up and see what this thing can do. Again, thanks so much for this awesome design. Its great to see something my father and I put together turn out so well.

Nate

[Jim Holtz]

Sweet!!! Oh sweet success, the center is working and man is it clear! Currently it isn't even stuffed yet so I imagine it will sound better when its finished, but its sounds incredibly detailed and clear. Just one question, when can I crank it up? Right now I have it hooked to a Emotiva combo and its running at level 40. I want to take it easy while it breaks in, but I would like to know about when I can turn it up and see what this thing can do. Again, thanks so much for this awesome design. Its great to see something my father and I put together turn out so well.

Nate

Hi Nate,

Excellent! I'm very pleased that the center turned out well. Yes, it will sound better once you have the sound dampening material applied and it's played for about 10 hours or so. Speakers aren't like a hot rod. They don't have a tach to watch to make sure you aren't exceeding the red line. Common sense is the best guide I can suggest. The center will get very loud and it should handle anything with in reason that you throw at it.

Jim

[NateTTU]

Thanks Jim,

I probably would won't have the desire to crank it up to ludicrous levels, but is this thing capable of refrence level playback? I'm curious as to how the Emotiva would display such a scale as right now the dial just keeps going up instead of the traditional 0 being ref level.

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks Jim,

I probably would won't have the desire to crank it up to ludicrous levels, but is this thing capable of refrence level playback? I'm curious as to how the Emotiva would display such a scale as right now the dial just keeps going up instead of the traditional 0 being ref level.

Reference levels and realistic volumes above reference are no sweat. :T

EDIT: I forgot to add, 0 on my Audio Refinement would make your ears bleed. I'm not sure 0 would be an indicator of reference levels on the read out.

Jim

[Coconutout]

could you delete my post here please?

[NateTTU]

Just curious, how loud do your speakers "hiss"? This is when the amp is powering the speaker but there isn't a signal. For anyone who has the Emotiva combo, just for refrence, I have the volume set at 48 and without a signal I can hear an audible hiss coming from the speaker within just a few feet away. Sounds like most of the noise is coming from the ribbon or mid. I bet it could be just nothing or could be a thousand other things, but I thought I would just check. If I remember correctly, even my lower quality pc speakers didn't put out this much hissing noise. My dad and I did use quite a few connection points on the crossovers and such within the speakers, such as using terminal strips and a bunch of spade lugs and other various crimp style connectors. I wanted to use just bare wire throughout but he suggested using all these other connectors to make it cleaner and avoid any cold sauder joints. In all its still a great speaker, but I would just like to make it sound the best possible, especially before I seal it up for good.

[Jim Holtz]

Just curious, how loud do your speakers "hiss"? This is when the amp is powering the speaker but there isn't a signal. For anyone who has the Emotiva combo, just for refrence, I have the volume set at 48 and without a signal I can hear an audible hiss coming from the speaker within just a few feet away. Sounds like most of the noise is coming from the ribbon or mid. I bet it could be just nothing or could be a thousand other things, but I thought I would just check. If I remember correctly, even my lower quality pc speakers didn't put out this much hissing noise. My dad and I did use quite a few connection points on the crossovers and such within the speakers, such as using terminal strips and a bunch of spade lugs and other various crimp style connectors. I wanted to use just bare wire throughout but he suggested using all these other connectors to make it cleaner and avoid any cold sauder joints. In all its still a great speaker, but I would just like to make it sound the best possible, especially before I seal it up for good.

My LPA-1 is dead silent. Try disconnecting everything from the amp, turn it on and see if you can hear anything then. If all is quiet, start to connect one thing at a time, starting with the bare preamp and see when the hiss returns. Then you'll know.

If it is the amp, RMA it. They'll take care of you.

HTH

Jim

[---k---]

Just curious, how loud do your speakers "hiss"? This is when the amp is powering the speaker but there isn't a signal. For anyone who has the Emotiva combo, just for refrence, I have the volume set at 48 and without a signal I can hear an audible hiss coming from the speaker within just a few feet away. Sounds like most of the noise is coming from the ribbon or mid. I bet it could be just nothing or could be a thousand other things, but I thought I would just check. If I remember correctly, even my lower quality pc speakers didn't put out this much hissing noise. My dad and I did use quite a few connection points on the crossovers and such within the speakers, such as using terminal strips and a bunch of spade lugs and other various crimp style connectors. I wanted to use just bare wire throughout but he suggested using all these other connectors to make it cleaner and avoid any cold sauder joints. In all its still a great speaker, but I would just like to make it sound the best possible, especially before I seal it up for good.

It sounds like you think it is the speakers - IT ISN'T. It is the electronics. Usually it is a grounding issue or poor rf shielding in cheap gear. The hiss you hear is noise from your gear. You couldn't hear it before, because the speakers were so poor, they didn't resolve it and likely you just never noticed it.

My amp makes my speakers hiss. It is the cable tv line. It isn't grounded to the same point at the rest of the system. It originally was a hummm, I put a cheater plug on the amp, and it reduced it to a quite hiss. If I unplug the cable tv, it is gone. (Please no thread crapping lectures on cheater plugs. PM me if you must voice your concern.)

So, do as Jim states and find the real culprit, because it isn't the speakers. You may also want to try out some terminators on the ends of uncapped inputs.

[Ray Collins]

In the early days of tube gear it use to be attributed to electron rush...

Ray

[NateTTU]

I think I understand, however there really isn't anything else plugged into my amp. or preamp. Currently the only thing plugged into the preamp is the toslink optical cable from the 360 and the am/fm antenna. The only thing plugged into the amp is one rca cable going from the preamp to amp. I will try unplugging these first and report back to see if I still hear anything. Could the problem not lie within the construstion method we used for the crossovers?

[NateTTU]

Ok, now that I'm home from work I got the chance to try your suggestions. I turned on the amp and listened very carefully and didn't hear anything. then I Connected the processor to the amp via a monoprice RCA cable, I think at this moment there was a very slight hum (not hiss) and so slight I mean I really had to concentrate to hear it and so I'm not worried about this at all. Even when turning up the processor to insane levels (without an input of course) the hum never got any louder. The hiss only came back when I plugged the optical cable from the 360 into the processor and then turned the 360 back on. So it seems that the 360 was the source of the problem or I need a better optical cable. I'm glad nothing serious was going on and now its back to work on the rest of the speakers. :T

Thanks for the help guys.

[Jim Holtz]

Ok, now that I'm home from work I got the chance to try your suggestions. I turned on the amp and listened very carefully and didn't hear anything. then I Connected the processor to the amp via a monoprice RCA cable, I think at this moment there was a very slight hum (not hiss) and so slight I mean I really had to concentrate to hear it and so I'm not worried about this at all. Even when turning up the processor to insane levels (without an input of course) the hum never got any louder. The hiss only came back when I plugged the optical cable from the 360 into the processor and then turned the 360 back on. So it seems that the 360 was the source of the problem or I need a better optical cable. I'm glad nothing serious was going on and now its back to work on the rest of the speakers. :T

Thanks for the help guys.

Since that's an optical cable rather than a RCA, it's the 360 that is causing the hum. A better cable won't help since there isn't an electrical connection between the two components. That is what I've always been told anyway.

HTH

Jim

[NateTTU]

Since that's an optical cable rather than a RCA, it's the 360 that is causing the hum. A better cable won't help since there isn't an electrical connection between the two components. That is what I've always been told anyway.

HTH

Jim

I didn't know that, although that does make sense. Its ok though as the 360 will later only be used for gaming, just in the mean time its for movies as well. I'm looking to get a bluray player in the near future. Thanks Jim.

[Coconutout]

ever since sealing up my statements, i've lost a lot of low end ambiance that i was getting from the ports. but the midbass is so sweet i will not be unplugging the ports. instead, i've decided to get an 15" or 18" subwoofer. i'd like to know which one would fair better with the statements, a sealed or sonosub? and do you guys have any driver recommendation? i thought i read it from someone that a metal woofer would blend in best with the statements. i would love to get maelstorm x but don't wanna wait that long... i just want something that would give me the tightest and lowest note possible... using my nad 2200 amp. thanks in advance.

[---k---]

a sealed or sonosub?

Those are not mutually exclusive.

The RS subs are probably the best sound quality, but the Tempest is probably the value leader with excellent sound quality. Myself, I would probably get a Tempest (or Maelstorm), but definitely consider the 15" RS subs from our fine forum sponsor.

You probably should start a thread where you give your size and budget constraints. That usually is the guiding factor.

[mikela]

Sealed Statements

Hi Folks,

First time posting to this forum. I am in the beginning phase of building 3 sealed Statements for an LCR arrangement behind an acoustically transparent SMX screen (10' wide, 2.37 format). I plan on using the Monitors as surrounds once Jim and Curt finalize things. I currently have a Magnepan 5.1 system (1.6QR,CC3) and am interested in how these will compare. The reason I am looking at replacing the Maggies is primarily due to placement issues with the new screen and I've allways wanted to experiment with ribbons.

Questions:

1. For the sealed enclosures, would Whispermat (or variant), polyester batting be better for this version?

2. I have a DEQX and was considering biamping or triamping. Just follow Curt's xover points and slopes?

3. Any advantage to using the Statement Center in lieu of a sealed Statement?

It's been about 30 years since I built my one and only set of DIY speakers...JBL's (15' ported woofer, horn loaded mid and tweeter). So really, I'm a newbie.

Mike

[Dennis H]

I'd go with 3 identical speakers with the stock passive crossovers. If you need to do some room EQ, most receivers and prepros include it these days. You don't need the DEQX and it only has 2 inputs so you'd need $everal of them to do a whole HT system, or at least 2 to make the front 3 speakers the same. And even if you spent all that money, it's unlikely the speakers would sound better than the way Curt and Jim designed them.

[CupCak3]

I agree with Dennis, you'll get a better soundstage w/ 3 identical speakers in the front.

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Folks,

First time posting to this forum. I am in the beginning phase of building 3 sealed Statements for an LCR arrangement behind an acoustically transparent SMX screen (10' wide, 2.37 format). I plan on using the Monitors as surrounds once Jim and Curt finalize things. I currently have a Magnepan 5.1 system (1.6QR,CC3) and am interested in how these will compare. The reason I am looking at replacing the Maggies is primarily due to placement issues with the new screen and I've allways wanted to experiment with ribbons.

Questions:

1. For the sealed enclosures, would Whispermat (or variant), polyester batting be better for this version?

2. I have a DEQX and was considering biamping or triamping. Just follow Curt's xover points and slopes?

3. Any advantage to using the Statement Center in lieu of a sealed Statement?

It's been about 30 years since I built my one and only set of DIY speakers...JBL's (15' ported woofer, horn loaded mid and tweeter). So really, I'm a newbie.

Mike

Hi Mike,

1. Whispermat or similar will work great and is easier to handle than fiberglass.

2. I'm not a big fan of active over a well done passive crossover and the Statements are welll done. :T I have heard Salk Sound HT3's in both passive and active through a DEXQ and they both sounded extremely nice with the added benefit that the DEXQ straightened out a nasty room bass issue. I know Curt answered you on this so I'll be curious to hear which way you go. BTW, with the sealed Statements, there won't be any bass issues so I'm not sure that the DEXQ will offer any benefit.

3. Normally I'd say go with the center but with a projector and acoustically transparent screen, an extra Statement would be hard to beat. You might even consider going with the ported version for the center. There is a huge amount of bass available in the center channel if your speaker will handle it. BTW, the Statements center would also do a killer job here too. :T

HTH

Jim

[johnnysamoa]

question for Jim/Curt re: sealed statement

I've chosen the Statements for my next project. I want to go with the sealed design. I understand that there is no crossover design modification necessary with the sealed cabs people have used.

My question is: Can I use the cabinet dimensions of the ported design, w/o the port? I want to keep the tweets at listening height, but don't want to have to raise the shorter sealed statements using bass bins, stands or lifters. I plan on crossing the speakers to an Epik Tower sub that already has found it's ideal place in my room and I don't want to move it.

Will this pose any problems with the added volume for sealed? I'll post my progress once I start cutting and gluing this weekend.

thanks

[Jim Holtz]

I've chosen the Statements for my next project. I want to go with the sealed design. I understand that there is no crossover design modification necessary with the sealed cabs people have used.

My question is: Can I use the cabinet dimensions of the ported design, w/o the port? I want to keep the tweets at listening height, but don't want to have to raise the shorter sealed statements using bass bins, stands or lifters. I plan on crossing the speakers to an Epik Tower sub that already has found it's ideal place in my room and I don't want to move it.

Will this pose any problems with the added volume for sealed? I'll post my progress once I start cutting and gluing this weekend.

thanks

Actually, that works out to a sealed cabinet alignment of .577 per Unibox which is commonly referred to as an "audiophile" alignment. The bass will be a bit more extended but a little bit leaner sounding in the mid bass region. That could easily be seasoned to taste depending on how you cross your sub. It should work fine.

Another thought is to build the cabinets the same size as ported but simply add a solid panel internally making them 40" high inside. Put the crossover in the bottom with an access panel on the back. That would retain the .7 cabinet alignment with the slightly "fatter" bass.

EDIT: I forgot to add, great choice in projects! Welcome to the Statements family! :T

Jim

[johnnysamoa]

Thanks for the advice Jim.
Jim

I intend to cross at 60. Considering my crossover point, will the .577 alignment be more "dull" in the mid bass region compared to a .7? I love my subs overall performance (especially down low), but looking for a little help on mid "punch" from 70ish to 120.

Quick overview of what I'm replacing and what I'm hoping to achieve:

Swan Diva front end (5.1s L&R and C3 center) with DefTech in wall surrounds for 7.1. The 7.0 is currently powered by Emotiva DMR-1 reciever, but I have an XPA-5 that should be here in acouple weeks. I plan on using XPA5 for LCR (Statements & Center Statement) and side surrounds (i'll keep the DefTechs....I like the in wall for surrounds); and use two channels off the DMR for rear surrounds.

The Swans are pretty good for HT, but my useage is approaching 70/30 favoring music as opposed to movies. The Swans leave me thirsting for more/better detail when listening to music. I'm also getting starting to favor 2 channel for a lot of my music.

My hopes are that the Statements will open up new levels of detail in mids/highs and add a little mid/upper bass punch to go with my Epik sub.

Wish me luck...i'm sure i'll be looking for reassurance in the coming weeks (especially with the cross overs)! Once I get started i'll start a thread on Missions Possible. Hoping I can join the missions accomplished crew by June.

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks for the advice Jim.
Jim

I intend to cross at 60. Considering my crossover point, will the .577 alignment be more "dull" in the mid bass region compared to a .7? I love my subs overall performance (especially down low), but looking for a little help on mid "punch" from 70ish to 120.

Considering you are like me and prefer a bit fatter bass, I'd suggest the .7 alignment. It'll be just as easy as building the ported cabinet (less the port) with a solid partition at 40" same as the sealed version. If you wanted to, you could simply make it a full shelf brace with the center cut out and then screw a 1/2" plate of MDF over the center cut out for access if needed. Lots of options.

Regardless, I'd go with the .7 alignment rather than the .577. I know how good it sounds.

I think you'll be stunned at the amount of detail you've been missing. The W4's and the ribbon really are superb in this regard, IMHO.

Jim

[zjason]

Another vote of confidence for the sealed statements!

Here is a picture of what I did:
I made the cabinets 48" using a standard sheet of ply (save some cuts) and sealed at 40" as per Jim's recommendation.
I put the crossover / extra wire in the bottom space with a hole for access in case I ever needed to get at.

I am crossed over at 60Hz to a pair of 15" ported Tempests in 225L sonosubs powered by an EP2500 and there is no lack of midbass in my system.

I have another EP2500 coming that I got cheap that I am going to use to power the mains. I will let you know how that works.
450W / channel @ 8ohm
650W / channel @ 4ohm
I should have plenty of headroom for dynamics.

As for sealed versus ported subs, either can be made to work well. It's really a personal preference
Sealed allows a smaller volume subwoofer at the expense of price and performance (bigger amp and maybe EQ)
Ported requires more volume but delivers more performance and cheaper.

For movies and the sub 20Hz room shaking experience, ported and tuned low (<15hz) would be my choice.

[mikela]

Hi Mike,

1. Whispermat or similar will work great and is easier to handle than fiberglass.

2. I'm not a big fan of active over a well done passive crossover and the Statements are welll done. :T I have heard Salk Sound HT3's in both passive and active through a DEXQ and they both sounded extremely nice with the added benefit that the DEXQ straightened out a nasty room bass issue. I know Curt answered you on this so I'll be curious to hear which way you go. BTW, with the sealed Statements, there won't be any bass issues so I'm not sure that the DEXQ will offer any benefit.

3. Normally I'd say go with the center but with a projector and acoustically transparent screen, an extra Statement would be hard to beat. You might even consider going with the ported version for the center. There is a huge amount of bass available in the center channel if your speaker will handle it. BTW, the Statements center would also do a killer job here too. :T

HTH

Jim

Jim,

Thanks for the response.

I think what I'll end up doing is building in the crossovers as Curt designed them (I already have the parts) and making multiple speaker terminals that will allow me to experiment with and without the passive xovers. The DEQX does more than a basic active crossover in that in also phase/time aligns the entire signal path using DSP with nearfield measurements. It is correct that the DEQX is only 2 channel. They are aparently working on a 3 channel version which would be perfect for me. I forgot to mention that I already have a Velodyne DD18 sub. So I think the sealed Statements should cross nicely at 40Hz.

Any word on the new version of the Tangband? As fate would have it, I bought the entire ship set of drivers and xover components including the new version of the Tangband just as I learned of this potential issue. :E

Mike

[mikela]

Sealed Statements Stands

Any thoughts on building stands for the sealed version? I live in earth quake country and will also have to deal with that.

Mike

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Mike,

I'll take a crack at both of your questions.

Regarding the "new" W4's, Jed has a new one on the way I believe and will be testing it soon. My money still says they just switched frames to a slightly different design in the round version and will offer the truncated version too. I expect the newer frame version to test the same. Time will tell.

You might consider building the ported cabinet version with a partition at 40" to seal the top chamber. The ported cabinet with base is very, very stable.

HTH

Jim

[mikela]

I agree with Dennis, you'll get a better soundstage w/ 3 identical speakers in the front.

Dennis/Drew,

Agree that this is a best practice and is the way I will go.

Mike

[mikela]

You might consider building the ported cabinet version with a partition at 40" to seal the top chamber. The ported cabinet with base is very, very stable.

Jim

Yep...I might have to reconsider that although I really like the size of the sealed version. I was also thinking about attaching safety cables to the tops in the event of seismic activity.

Mike

[CupCak3]

Dennis/Drew,

Agree that this is a best practice and is the way I will go.

Mike

Actually I need to clarify my statement... Its not the identical speakers which will give the better sounds stage but the vertical driver orientation of the mains as opposed to the horizontal design of the center :T